Re: Help with wrecked lawn

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

wrote:
> > Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride on
> > it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch with a
> > tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.
> >
> > The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
> > dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.
> >
> > It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.
> >
>
>> I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on this
> newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
> ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
> trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
> blades?
>
I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they were
too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,before
you go over the whole lawn.

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[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

wrote:
> wrote:
> > > Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride
> > > on it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch
> > > with a tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.
> > >
> > > The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
> > > dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.
> > >
> > > It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.
> > >
> >
> >> I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on
> >> this
> > newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
> > ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
> > trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
> > blades?
> >
>> I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they
>> were
> too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,
> before you go over the whole lawn.
>
I should add,the cutting deck height is the key. Start high,and lower
slowly till your only entering the thatch layer 1/4 inch or so. If your
tearing up the good turf, STOP! ;)

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[thurston]

This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.

Thurston


"F Paul" > wrote in message
om...
> SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
> a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
> got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
> and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
> summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
> kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
> lawn.
>
> Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
> and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
> that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
> the spring, or what??
>
> Thanks for any help.
> FP

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

"thurston" > wrote:
>> This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.
>
> Thurston
>
Really Thurston? I didn't see anything about lawn renovation in that
link..another hit for it though..
>
> "F Paul" > wrote in message
> om...
> > SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
> > a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
> > got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
> > and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
> > summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
> > kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
> > lawn.
> >
> > Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
> > and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
> > that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
> > the spring, or what??
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> > FP

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[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

wrote:
> > Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride on
> > it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch with a
> > tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.
> >
> > The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
> > dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.
> >
> > It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.
> >
>
>> I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on this
> newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
> ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
> trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
> blades?
>
I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they were
too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,before
you go over the whole lawn.

--
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[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

wrote:
> wrote:
> > > Never till very deep,for grass. Remember,you'll have to walk or ride
> > > on it, when you cut in 3 to 5 weeks. If you go deeper than 1 inch
> > > with a tiller,it won't support traffic without making ruts.
> > >
> > > The best prep machine for bare soil(other than a rock hound) is a
> > > dethatcher. You rent it,beat it to death,hose it off and return it.
> > >
> > > It will turn most soil into fluff,if it's dry.
> > >
> >
> >> I have a dethatcher blade for the lawmower(not sure if it works on
> >> this
> > newer mower I have yet) . I used it once for the front lawn few years
> > ago. It basically just took all the grass out down to the dirt. I was
> > trying to get rid of the moss in the grass. How do you feel about the
> > blades?
> >
>> I've never used them but from when I've seen customers use them,they
>> were
> too invasive on the desirable turf. I'd say test it on a small area,
> before you go over the whole lawn.
>
I should add,the cutting deck height is the key. Start high,and lower
slowly till your only entering the thatch layer 1/4 inch or so. If your
tearing up the good turf, STOP! ;)

--
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[thurston]

This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.

Thurston


"F Paul" > wrote in message
om...
> SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
> a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
> got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
> and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
> summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
> kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
> lawn.
>
> Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
> and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
> that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
> the spring, or what??
>
> Thanks for any help.
> FP

[Moparholic@hotmailnospam.com]

"thurston" > wrote:
>> This site may help you with your problem, www.jackeden.com.
>
> Thurston
>
Really Thurston? I didn't see anything about lawn renovation in that
link..another hit for it though..
>
> "F Paul" > wrote in message
> om...
> > SO what do you suggest. Im a new home owner, with a 20x40 lawn that is
> > a wreck. From a distance its not so bad -- kinda green. Up close its
> > got both grass and flowery weeds, dry spots and patches, its uneven
> > and I'm in the northeast where the drought did a job on the lawn this
> > summer. to top it off, ive learned that the previous owners left some
> > kind of metallic strips under the sod they put down in portions of the
> > lawn.
> >
> > Whew. so now its late fall, and i wondering: should i rip it all up
> > and re seed; seed the areas that are dry and ptchy and fertilize over
> > that; lay down some kind of ortho-ish hardcore weed killer and seed in
> > the spring, or what??
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> > FP

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