Crabgrass

[DaveC]

How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
everything else around it? Thanks.

[Steveo]

"DaveC" > wrote:
> How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
> everything else around it? Thanks.
>
In your lawn?

[Donald Guzzetta]

You can use Roundup to kill the crabgrass the trick is in applying it. You
can get a pair of rubber gloves and put a pair of cloth gloves over them.
Then moisten the glove with roundup mixture. carefully apply the roundup to
the grabgrass by grabbing the shoots of the plant, be carefull not to touch
the anything you want to live!



"DaveC" > wrote in message
...
> How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
> everything else around it? Thanks.
>
>

[DaveC]

I guess I am stuck until next year then, using a pre-emergent? It is the
entire backyard of a new house, plant by plant is way to much. The builder
let it get wild and also seeded bluegrass and fescue. I hate to till the
whole thing and start over, it's about a 1/4 of an acre. I was hoping
something was out there to get the crabgrass.

"Donald Guzzetta" > wrote in message
...
> You can use Roundup to kill the crabgrass the trick is in applying it. You
> can get a pair of rubber gloves and put a pair of cloth gloves over them.
> Then moisten the glove with roundup mixture. carefully apply the roundup
> to
> the grabgrass by grabbing the shoots of the plant, be carefull not to
> touch
> the anything you want to live!
>
>
>
> "DaveC" > wrote in message
> ...
>> How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
>> everything else around it? Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>

[Steveo]

yore doomed!

"DaveC" > wrote:
> I guess I am stuck until next year then,

[RoyDMercer]

"DaveC" > wrote in message
...
> I guess I am stuck until next year then, using a pre-emergent? It is the
> entire backyard of a new house, plant by plant is way to much. The
builder
> let it get wild and also seeded bluegrass and fescue. I hate to till the
> whole thing and start over, it's about a 1/4 of an acre. I was hoping
> something was out there to get the crabgrass.

The type of grass you have does not tolerate a selective crabgrass herbicide
like CSMA or MSMA. Pre-emergent is your best bet. Crabgrass is an annual
and has to come back by seed.

[Steveo]

"RoyDMercer" > wrote:
> The type of grass you have does not tolerate a selective crabgrass
> herbicide like CSMA or MSMA.
>
What does tolerate it?

[Chet Hayes]

"Donald Guzzetta" > wrote in message >...
> You can use Roundup to kill the crabgrass the trick is in applying it. You
> can get a pair of rubber gloves and put a pair of cloth gloves over them.
> Then moisten the glove with roundup mixture. carefully apply the roundup to
> the grabgrass by grabbing the shoots of the plant, be carefull not to touch
> the anything you want to live!
>
>
>
> "DaveC" > wrote in message
> ...
> > How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
> > everything else around it? Thanks.
> >
> >


Acclaim is the best product I've found, though you need a license to
buy it. Very effective, kills the crabgrass and leaves the lawn
unharmed. The over the counter ones I've tried were poor at killing
the crabgrass and harmed the good grass.

[William W. Plummer]

DaveC wrote:

> How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
> everything else around it? Thanks.


I use "Crabgrass Killer". It is specific to crabgrass and does not
affect normal grass. It takes 2 or 3 applications, a week apart. It
works very well, but I also use preemergent kill in the spring.

[dicko]

Nobody's mentioned the other way to get rid of crabgrass. That's to
encourage the good grass to grow and choke out the crabgrass. So
rather than spending money on killing the crabgrass, spend the money
on getting the good grass to grow.

I believe the original poster said it was a new lawn. Just fertilize
and water and do everything to encourage the new grass to get good and
thick this year. Next year, instead of putting down a pre-emergent
herbicide, which incidently will prohibit you from putting down any
good grass seed, just look at all the thin spots, lay down some grass
seed and repeat the process.

It will take awhile, a few years maybe, but in the end you'll have a
good looking lawn.

BTW, the time to put down a post emergent crabgrass killer is when the
seedlings are real little. By the time you can see the crabgrass
shoots in your lawn its too late and the crabgrass is too established
to get rid of it. That of course means that most homeowners apply it
way too late in the season to do much good. It should be applied
before you even know you have a crabgrass problem.

Also, almost all of the post emergent stuff contains arsenic which I'm
not too keen on spreading all over my yard. Look at the ruckous raised
over CCA treated lumber and arsenic leeching from it and now you want
to purposely spread it over your yard?

If you do decide to go with a pre-emergent next spring, look at any of
the products containing corn gluten. its a natural product and
actually decomposes and fertilizes the lawn at the same time. But be
aware you wont be able to put down any new seed, so if your trying to
establish a new lawn, I'd wait on applying the pre-emergent killer and
through seeding and fertilizing, thicken up the lawn. That should
naturally choke out the crabgrass.

I'm not adovcating a total chemical free weed control program. I'm
probalby the first to reach for a broadleaf weed killer when the need
arises. But the post emergent crabgrass killers werent very effective
when I tried them and I got much better results by just encouraging
the good grass to grow and choke everything else out.

When I bought my house the lawn had been totally neglected for years
and crabgrass was everywhere. Just by fertilizing and reseeding, the
next year the crabgrass was markedly reduced and by the third year was
totally gone. What little did appear was an easy matter of just
pulling it up while mowing the lawn.

dickm

[William W. Plummer]

dicko wrote:
> Nobody's mentioned the other way to get rid of crabgrass. That's to
> encourage the good grass to grow and choke out the crabgrass. So
> rather than spending money on killing the crabgrass, spend the money
> on getting the good grass to grow.
>
> I believe the original poster said it was a new lawn. Just fertilize
> and water and do everything to encourage the new grass to get good and
> thick this year. Next year, instead of putting down a pre-emergent
> herbicide, which incidently will prohibit you from putting down any
> good grass seed, just look at all the thin spots, lay down some grass
> seed and repeat the process.
>
> It will take awhile, a few years maybe, but in the end you'll have a
> good looking lawn.
>
> BTW, the time to put down a post emergent crabgrass killer is when the
> seedlings are real little. By the time you can see the crabgrass
> shoots in your lawn its too late and the crabgrass is too established
> to get rid of it. That of course means that most homeowners apply it
> way too late in the season to do much good. It should be applied
> before you even know you have a crabgrass problem.
>
> Also, almost all of the post emergent stuff contains arsenic which I'm
> not too keen on spreading all over my yard. Look at the ruckous raised
> over CCA treated lumber and arsenic leeching from it and now you want
> to purposely spread it over your yard?
>
> If you do decide to go with a pre-emergent next spring, look at any of
> the products containing corn gluten. its a natural product and
> actually decomposes and fertilizes the lawn at the same time. But be
> aware you wont be able to put down any new seed, so if your trying to
> establish a new lawn, I'd wait on applying the pre-emergent killer and
> through seeding and fertilizing, thicken up the lawn. That should
> naturally choke out the crabgrass.
>
> I'm not adovcating a total chemical free weed control program. I'm
> probalby the first to reach for a broadleaf weed killer when the need
> arises. But the post emergent crabgrass killers werent very effective
> when I tried them and I got much better results by just encouraging
> the good grass to grow and choke everything else out.
>
> When I bought my house the lawn had been totally neglected for years
> and crabgrass was everywhere. Just by fertilizing and reseeding, the
> next year the crabgrass was markedly reduced and by the third year was
> totally gone. What little did appear was an easy matter of just
> pulling it up while mowing the lawn.
>
> dickm
>
Corn gluten is expensive.

[Peter]

Why not just pull the crabgrass up by the roots. It works effectively for
me. In my lawn.


"Donald Guzzetta" > wrote in message
...
> You can use Roundup to kill the crabgrass the trick is in applying it. You
> can get a pair of rubber gloves and put a pair of cloth gloves over them.
> Then moisten the glove with roundup mixture. carefully apply the roundup
to
> the grabgrass by grabbing the shoots of the plant, be carefull not to
touch
> the anything you want to live!
>
>
>
> "DaveC" > wrote in message
> ...
> > How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
> > everything else around it? Thanks.
> >
> >
>
>

[Peter H]

"Chet Hayes" > wrote in message
om...
> "Donald Guzzetta" > wrote in message
>...
> > You can use Roundup to kill the crabgrass the trick is in applying it.
You
> > can get a pair of rubber gloves and put a pair of cloth gloves over
them.
> > Then moisten the glove with roundup mixture. carefully apply the roundup
to
> > the grabgrass by grabbing the shoots of the plant, be carefull not to
touch
> > the anything you want to live!
> >
> >
> >
> > "DaveC" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without
killing
> > > everything else around it? Thanks.
> > >
> > >
>
>
> Acclaim is the best product I've found, though you need a license to
> buy it. Very effective, kills the crabgrass and leaves the lawn
> unharmed. The over the counter ones I've tried were poor at killing
> the crabgrass and harmed the good grass.

I'll second Chet's recommendation here. There was a time when you had to do
crab applications in the spring. I've had great results w/ Acclaim in the
summer and little or no damage to the lawn.

Peter H

[Chet Hayes]

"William W. Plummer" > wrote in message news:<6QSJc.105064$XM6.20773@attbi_s53>...
> dicko wrote:
> > Nobody's mentioned the other way to get rid of crabgrass. That's to
> > encourage the good grass to grow and choke out the crabgrass. So
> > rather than spending money on killing the crabgrass, spend the money
> > on getting the good grass to grow.
> >
> > I believe the original poster said it was a new lawn. Just fertilize
> > and water and do everything to encourage the new grass to get good and
> > thick this year.

It's impossible to encourage a new lawn that is being taken over by
crabgrass to grow and choke out the crabgrass. Watering and
fertilizer at this point will just make the opposite happen, with the
crabgrass choking out the grass. I agree that maintaining a thick
healthy lawn is the first and most important step at keeping crabgrass
out, but it won't get rid of it this year when it's already there and
killing off the new lawn.



Next year, instead of putting down a pre-emergent
> > herbicide, which incidently will prohibit you from putting down any
> > good grass seed, just look at all the thin spots, lay down some grass
> > seed and repeat the process.
> >
> >

There are pre-emergents available that can safely be used on recently
seeded lawns. But re-seeding should be done in the fall anyway.
Based on what I've heard so far, his best bet is to get a professional
in to kill the crabgrass now with Acclaim, save the lawn, and avoid
having to re-seed.


It will take awhile, a few years maybe, but in the end you'll have a
> > good looking lawn.
> >
> > BTW, the time to put down a post emergent crabgrass killer is when the
> > seedlings are real little. By the time you can see the crabgrass
> > shoots in your lawn its too late and the crabgrass is too established
> > to get rid of it. That of course means that most homeowners apply it
> > way too late in the season to do much good. It should be applied
> > before you even know you have a crabgrass problem.
> >
> > Also, almost all of the post emergent stuff contains arsenic which I'm
> > not too keen on spreading all over my yard. Look at the ruckous raised
> > over CCA treated lumber and arsenic leeching from it and now you want
> > to purposely spread it over your yard?
> >

Good reasons to use Acclaim, it will kill even mature crabgrass
effectively, and doesn;t contain arsenic.


> > If you do decide to go with a pre-emergent next spring, look at any of
> > the products containing corn gluten. its a natural product and
> > actually decomposes and fertilizes the lawn at the same time. But be
> > aware you wont be able to put down any new seed, so if your trying to
> > establish a new lawn, I'd wait on applying the pre-emergent killer and
> > through seeding and fertilizing, thicken up the lawn. That should
> > naturally choke out the crabgrass.
> >
> > I'm not adovcating a total chemical free weed control program. I'm
> > probalby the first to reach for a broadleaf weed killer when the need
> > arises. But the post emergent crabgrass killers werent very effective
> > when I tried them and I got much better results by just encouraging
> > the good grass to grow and choke everything else out.
> >
> > When I bought my house the lawn had been totally neglected for years
> > and crabgrass was everywhere. Just by fertilizing and reseeding, the
> > next year the crabgrass was markedly reduced and by the third year was
> > totally gone. What little did appear was an easy matter of just
> > pulling it up while mowing the lawn.
> >
> > dickm
> >
> Corn gluten is expensive.

Given a choice of 3 years of looking at crabgrass and the trouble and
expense of reseeding, I'd go with the Acclaim.

[DaveC]

Can acclaim be purchased by a DIY'r?


"Chet Hayes" > wrote in message
om...
> "William W. Plummer" > wrote in message
> news:<6QSJc.105064$XM6.20773@attbi_s53>...
>> dicko wrote:
>> > Nobody's mentioned the other way to get rid of crabgrass. That's to
>> > encourage the good grass to grow and choke out the crabgrass. So
>> > rather than spending money on killing the crabgrass, spend the money
>> > on getting the good grass to grow.
>> >
>> > I believe the original poster said it was a new lawn. Just fertilize
>> > and water and do everything to encourage the new grass to get good and
>> > thick this year.
>
> It's impossible to encourage a new lawn that is being taken over by
> crabgrass to grow and choke out the crabgrass. Watering and
> fertilizer at this point will just make the opposite happen, with the
> crabgrass choking out the grass. I agree that maintaining a thick
> healthy lawn is the first and most important step at keeping crabgrass
> out, but it won't get rid of it this year when it's already there and
> killing off the new lawn.
>
>
>
> Next year, instead of putting down a pre-emergent
>> > herbicide, which incidently will prohibit you from putting down any
>> > good grass seed, just look at all the thin spots, lay down some grass
>> > seed and repeat the process.
>> >
>> >
>
> There are pre-emergents available that can safely be used on recently
> seeded lawns. But re-seeding should be done in the fall anyway.
> Based on what I've heard so far, his best bet is to get a professional
> in to kill the crabgrass now with Acclaim, save the lawn, and avoid
> having to re-seed.
>
>
> It will take awhile, a few years maybe, but in the end you'll have a
>> > good looking lawn.
>> >
>> > BTW, the time to put down a post emergent crabgrass killer is when the
>> > seedlings are real little. By the time you can see the crabgrass
>> > shoots in your lawn its too late and the crabgrass is too established
>> > to get rid of it. That of course means that most homeowners apply it
>> > way too late in the season to do much good. It should be applied
>> > before you even know you have a crabgrass problem.
>> >
>> > Also, almost all of the post emergent stuff contains arsenic which I'm
>> > not too keen on spreading all over my yard. Look at the ruckous raised
>> > over CCA treated lumber and arsenic leeching from it and now you want
>> > to purposely spread it over your yard?
>> >
>
> Good reasons to use Acclaim, it will kill even mature crabgrass
> effectively, and doesn;t contain arsenic.
>
>
>> > If you do decide to go with a pre-emergent next spring, look at any of
>> > the products containing corn gluten. its a natural product and
>> > actually decomposes and fertilizes the lawn at the same time. But be
>> > aware you wont be able to put down any new seed, so if your trying to
>> > establish a new lawn, I'd wait on applying the pre-emergent killer and
>> > through seeding and fertilizing, thicken up the lawn. That should
>> > naturally choke out the crabgrass.
>> >
>> > I'm not adovcating a total chemical free weed control program. I'm
>> > probalby the first to reach for a broadleaf weed killer when the need
>> > arises. But the post emergent crabgrass killers werent very effective
>> > when I tried them and I got much better results by just encouraging
>> > the good grass to grow and choke everything else out.
>> >
>> > When I bought my house the lawn had been totally neglected for years
>> > and crabgrass was everywhere. Just by fertilizing and reseeding, the
>> > next year the crabgrass was markedly reduced and by the third year was
>> > totally gone. What little did appear was an easy matter of just
>> > pulling it up while mowing the lawn.
>> >
>> > dickm
>> >
>> Corn gluten is expensive.
>
> Given a choice of 3 years of looking at crabgrass and the trouble and
> expense of reseeding, I'd go with the Acclaim.

[Barfin' Bob]

Steveo wrote:
> "RoyDMercer" > wrote:
>
>>The type of grass you have does not tolerate a selective crabgrass
>>herbicide like CSMA or MSMA.
>>
>
> What does tolerate it?

bermudagrass tolerates it quite well, thank you

[Steveo]

Barfin' Bob > wrote:
> Steveo wrote:
> > "RoyDMercer" > wrote:
> >
> >>The type of grass you have does not tolerate a selective crabgrass
> >>herbicide like CSMA or MSMA.
> >>
> >
> > What does tolerate it?
>
> bermudagrass tolerates it quite well, thank you
>
So you missed the part where he said blue and fescue, you're welcome.

[Barfin' Bob]

Steveo wrote:
> Barfin' Bob > wrote:
>
>>Steveo wrote:
>>
>>>"RoyDMercer" > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>The type of grass you have does not tolerate a selective crabgrass
>>>>herbicide like CSMA or MSMA.
>>>>
>>>
>>>What does tolerate it?
>>
>>bermudagrass tolerates it quite well, thank you
>>
>
> So you missed the part where he said blue and fescue, you're welcome.

Yeah, missed that part. That's what happens when one gets old.

[William W. Plummer]

William W. Plummer wrote:

> DaveC wrote:
>
>> How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without
>> killing everything else around it? Thanks.
>
>
>
> I use "Crabgrass Killer". It is specific to crabgrass and does not
> affect normal grass. It takes 2 or 3 applications, a week apart. It
> works very well, but I also use preemergent kill in the spring.
Bonide makes the Crabgrass Killer. A pint costs about $13, but you use
only a capful per gallon. Do it now before the plants drop their seeds
-- approximately 500 to 1000 per plant.

[Heidi the Horrible]

"Barfin' Bob" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Steveo wrote:
> > "RoyDMercer" > wrote:
> >
> >>The type of grass you have does not tolerate a selective crabgrass
> >>herbicide like CSMA or MSMA.
> >>
> >
> > What does tolerate it?
>
> bermudagrass tolerates it quite well, thank you


I went for a jog on the local golf course and their crabgrass was dying so
they sprayed it with something. I didn't notice if it was growing in with
bermuda or fescue.

[Chris Hagler]

A drivers license to apply a chemical.....cool...I want some of that stuff!


"Chet Hayes" > wrote in message
om...
"Donald Guzzetta" > wrote in message
>...
> You can use Roundup to kill the crabgrass the trick is in applying it. You
> can get a pair of rubber gloves and put a pair of cloth gloves over them.
> Then moisten the glove with roundup mixture. carefully apply the roundup
to
> the grabgrass by grabbing the shoots of the plant, be carefull not to
touch
> the anything you want to live!
>
>
>
> "DaveC" > wrote in message
> ...
> > How can one kill rooted crabgrass this late in the year without killing
> > everything else around it? Thanks.
> >
> >


Acclaim is the best product I've found, though you need a license to
buy it. Very effective, kills the crabgrass and leaves the lawn
unharmed. The over the counter ones I've tried were poor at killing
the crabgrass and harmed the good grass.

[Dan Hartung]

Chris Hagler wrote:
> A drivers license to apply a chemical.....cool...I want some of that stuff!

Ask Timothy McVeigh.

[Steveo]

Dan Hartung > wrote:
> Chris Hagler wrote:
> > A drivers license to apply a chemical.....cool...I want some of that
> > stuff!
>
> Ask Timothy McVeigh.
>
You don't need an Agriculture license to buy cheap urea, it's sold as
ice melt. In fact, it's the only product you can use on certain surfaces.

It's -very- popular for that..the fert *usually* has the anti flash
ingredient added.

[Brigitte]

"Dan Hartung" > wrote in message
...
> Chris Hagler wrote:
> > A drivers license to apply a chemical.....cool...I want some of that
stuff!
>
> Ask Timothy McVeigh.

FYI...he's dead...
>