new tank..sub recomendations

[WD]

I'd like to go with sand. I'm concerned about the possibility of gas
buildup, however. Thoughts?

Also, best filter for a 40 gal moderately planted tank? Canister-type is
what I'm leaning to, due to space considerations, HOT design would move the
tank out too far.

[LeighMo]

>I'd like to go with sand. I'm concerned about the possibility of gas
>buildup, however. Thoughts?

Flourite or Onyx would be easier, especially if you're a beginner. But lots of
people use plain old sand in planted tanks. Pool filter sand is a good,
low-cost choice. Mix laterite into the bottom inch or so. (Be careful not to
use coral sand or anything like that. It's okay for marine tanks, but will
play hell with your pH in freshwater.)

Sand can be a problem in an unplanted tank, because it tends to compact and can
be hard to vaccuum (since it's so fine). But with a healthy planted tank, the
plants' roots will bring enough oxygen into the substrate to keep it from going
bad.

>Also, best filter for a 40 gal moderately planted tank? Canister-type is
>what I'm leaning to, due to space considerations, HOT design would move the
>tank out too far.

A cannister is ideal for a planted tank of this size. It gives you control
over the amount of surface turbulence, which can be important if you decide to
inject CO2.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[WD]

**Interspersed**

"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...

> Flourite or Onyx would be easier, especially if you're a beginner. But
lots of
> people use plain old sand in planted tanks. Pool filter sand is a good,
> low-cost choice. Mix laterite into the bottom inch or so. (Be careful
not to
> use coral sand or anything like that. It's okay for marine tanks, but
will
> play hell with your pH in freshwater.)

I'm not quite a beginner, but I've never had the opportunity to do a tank
*specifically* with plants in mind. I just liket he loko of sand, but I'll
consider the flourite.


>
> Sand can be a problem in an unplanted tank, because it tends to compact
and can
> be hard to vaccuum (since it's so fine). But with a healthy planted tank,
the
> plants' roots will bring enough oxygen into the substrate to keep it from
going
> bad.
>
> >Also, best filter for a 40 gal moderately planted tank? Canister-type is
> >what I'm leaning to, due to space considerations, HOT design would move
the
> >tank out too far.
>
> A cannister is ideal for a planted tank of this size. It gives you
control
> over the amount of surface turbulence, which can be important if you
decide to
> inject CO2.
>
Eheim still the leader? DIY CO2 is guaranteed, a commercial set-up likely,
though a few months down the road.

>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[WD]

"WD" > wrote in message
news:rxQ9a.345218$tq4.7438@sccrnsc01...
> > A cannister is ideal for a planted tank of this size. It gives you
> control
> > over the amount of surface turbulence, which can be important if you
> decide to
> > inject CO2.
> >
> Eheim still the leader? DIY CO2 is guaranteed, a commercial set-up likely,
> though a few months down the road.
>

The ECCO series looks good, but didn't hear something about a problem with
that clever handle not sealing properly, and wetting some houses?

[LeighMo]

>I'm not quite a beginner, but I've never had the opportunity to do a tank
>*specifically* with plants in mind. I just liket he loko of sand, but I'll
>consider the flourite.

If it's sand's texture you like, consider Onyx sand. It's dark gray in color,
and actually a very fine gravel rather than sand. As with Flourite, there's no
need for laterite or other additives if you're using Onyx.

If you like the color of white sand...keep in mind that many fish find
light-colored substrates stressful, and it can make them look washed-out.
Also, it won't stay nice and white for long. It's kind of like having a white
carpet: every speck of dirt (and fish poop) will show. Of course, if you're
planning to cover it all with plants, it doesn't matter.

>Eheim still the leader?

Yes. Not sure about the ECCO, though. I think I have heard people gripe about
the handle breaking. I have an Eheim Pro, myself. (Good filter, but don't get
the thermofilter model -- the one with the heater built in. I've heard nothing
but complaints about those.)




Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[SteveG]

I use Carrib-sea Tahitian Moon Sand, which is black, mixed with First Layer
Laterite. It looks really nice and it is a great contrast to fish that has
irridescent blue or red scales like Rams and Cardinal tetras. Planting
small shoots of plants is really easy too.

However, even with substrate additives, the roots of my rosette
plants(swords and crypts) are coming out of the sand as if gasping for air.
They're all pointed upwards. I don't know why but sometimes I feel like
running a pair of sheers just over the surface to trim them. They're
healthy and sending out shoots.

No bubbles if I poke around but it does sometimes 'burp'

I'm posting a picture on alt.binaries.aquaria


"WD" > wrote in message
news:_BQ9a.342415$iG3.41159@sccrnsc02...
>
> "WD" > wrote in message
> news:rxQ9a.345218$tq4.7438@sccrnsc01...
> > > A cannister is ideal for a planted tank of this size. It gives you
> > control
> > > over the amount of surface turbulence, which can be important if you
> > decide to
> > > inject CO2.
> > >
> > Eheim still the leader? DIY CO2 is guaranteed, a commercial set-up
likely,
> > though a few months down the road.
> >
>
> The ECCO series looks good, but didn't hear something about a problem with
> that clever handle not sealing properly, and wetting some houses?
>
>

[Christopher]

if you want white gravel mix it with natural dark shades of gravel. I mixed
my white gravel with brown/black earth tone pebbles and about 15lbs worth of
the bigger gravel to add variety in size. This makes for a nice look, its
still light (so you get good reflection and a brighter tank) but its not a
false reef tank by any measure

"LeighMo" > wrote in message
...
> >I'm not quite a beginner, but I've never had the opportunity to do a tank
> >*specifically* with plants in mind. I just liket he loko of sand, but
I'll
> >consider the flourite.
>
> If it's sand's texture you like, consider Onyx sand. It's dark gray in
color,
> and actually a very fine gravel rather than sand. As with Flourite,
there's no
> need for laterite or other additives if you're using Onyx.
>
> If you like the color of white sand...keep in mind that many fish find
> light-colored substrates stressful, and it can make them look washed-out.
> Also, it won't stay nice and white for long. It's kind of like having a
white
> carpet: every speck of dirt (and fish poop) will show. Of course, if
you're
> planning to cover it all with plants, it doesn't matter.
>
> >Eheim still the leader?
>
> Yes. Not sure about the ECCO, though. I think I have heard people gripe
about
> the handle breaking. I have an Eheim Pro, myself. (Good filter, but
don't get
> the thermofilter model -- the one with the heater built in. I've heard
nothing
> but complaints about those.)
>
>
>
>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/
>

[Rich Conley]

I kind of dissagree and kind of agree with you Leigh. Yeah, crushed coral and coral
sand will bring up your PH...but this is not necessarilly a bad thing (depending on
fish choices.) Also, I prefer to use crushed coral mixed with sand for the same
reason that reef keepers are going away from it. The crushed coral tends to become
a nitrate sink, which just happens to be good for plants..

LeighMo wrote:

> >I'd like to go with sand. I'm concerned about the possibility of gas
> >buildup, however. Thoughts?
>
> Flourite or Onyx would be easier, especially if you're a beginner. But lots of
> people use plain old sand in planted tanks. Pool filter sand is a good,
> low-cost choice. Mix laterite into the bottom inch or so. (Be careful not to
> use coral sand or anything like that. It's okay for marine tanks, but will
> play hell with your pH in freshwater.)
>
> Sand can be a problem in an unplanted tank, because it tends to compact and can
> be hard to vaccuum (since it's so fine). But with a healthy planted tank, the
> plants' roots will bring enough oxygen into the substrate to keep it from going
> bad.
>
> >Also, best filter for a 40 gal moderately planted tank? Canister-type is
> >what I'm leaning to, due to space considerations, HOT design would move the
> >tank out too far.
>
> A cannister is ideal for a planted tank of this size. It gives you control
> over the amount of surface turbulence, which can be important if you decide to
> inject CO2.
>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

[Rich Conley]

I'm not really sure....but it may have something to do with the fact that the
iregular shape lets more bacteria grow in the substrate then in sand..so you get
nitrogen brakedown near the soil....not sure....but the reef-keepers tend to spout
about it all the time..and I do definately notice a difference in the crushed
coral tanks vs. my sand tanks....definately more growth....but who knows...it may
just be that my sand tanks are calcium limited or something.....

LeighMo wrote:

> >I kind of dissagree and kind of agree with you Leigh. Yeah, crushed coral and
> >coral
> >sand will bring up your PH...but this is not necessarilly a bad thing
> >(depending on
> >fish choices.)
>
> Some people add crushed coral specifically to increase their pH. (I've done
> the same with oyster shell.) But I don't do it any more. I prefer more
> controllable methods. And I don't think it's a good idea for newbies.
>
> > Also, I prefer to use crushed coral mixed with sand for the same
> >reason that reef keepers are going away from it. The crushed coral tends to
> >become
> >a nitrate sink, which just happens to be good for plants..
>
> Interesting. How does coral sand become a nitrate sink?
>
> Leigh
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/