I was given a bonsai tree as a present.
It has been on a window cill for about 8 months.
It lost all its leaves over the winter and at present there are still no leaves,just small brown furry buds.
Is this normal ?
Not sure of the name of the tree.
Any help appreciated.

Graham

On May 17, 3:27*am, graann wrote:
I was given a bonsai tree as a present.
It lost all its leaves over the winter and at present there are still no
leaves,just small brown furry buds.
Not sure of the name of the tree.

Graham

Oh dear, this sad story happens over and over, in UK and here in North
America. Scratch the bark. If it is brown underneath, the tree is
dead. If you can, ask your friend to return it and demand a refund,
because it was sold without a label or instructions.
If there is a green layer under the bark, there is hope.
1. Get it outside, starting in the shade, gradually in full sun.
2. If there are stones glued on the soil, pry them off immediately.
3. Have you watered it? Water only when the soil is somewhat dry.
4. Once it has recognizable leaves, take a couple of pictures, one
close-up. and post to the Internet Bonsai Club. I don't have the URL
handy, but Google on it and you will get there.
Iris

Whenever I look at this book, it takes me back to the time when I started bonsai. What a magical time that was! And it always filled me with excitement whenever I sat down to savor the the contents of this book. I remember greatly admiring the trees in it, but it also made me feel that I can one day have trees of similar caliber. Using lots of european species helped to dispel the mystery and brought bonsai closer to me. Some japanese books had a mysterious and foreign aura about them that didn't inspire the confidence in me that Harry's book did. It is one of the classics of bonsai literature.

I hope that the day will come when that feeling of excitement and admiration is back again, like I had it when I was a beginner. I know that many years need to pass until that beginner's mind is back again. This book will always be there to steer me in the right direction.

Feeding regularly during the growth season is crucial for your Bonsai to survive. Normal trees are able to extend their root system looking for nutrients; Bonsai however are planted in rather small pots and need to be fertilized in order to replenish the soil's nutritional content.



Basic file parts of fertilizer
The three basic elements of any fertilizer are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K), with each element serving different purposes. Nitrogen increases growth of leaves and stems, Phosphorus encourages healthy root growth and Potassium encourages growth of fruits and flowers. Different ratios of NPK are being used for different trees at different times of year, which is very important to take into account when fertilizing Bonsai.

sorry graann but what i would like to share Grow a range of different bonsai trees in your own home. Growing your trees is simple - everything you need is inside this gift box including starter growing pots, compost discs, seeds and a booklet containing growing tips. A unique gift idea. Green fingers aren it required to grow a range of beautiful bonsai trees at home. Included in the set:
4 packets of mixed bonsai seeds
5 starter growing pots made from coconut husk
5 natural coconut husk compost discs which expand when watered
5 wooden plant markers
Bonsai tree growing tips...

On the packaging, it said it was a 4 year old Bonsai tree.
But the leaves and shape of it is not like any of the bonsai tree types that i have looked up. It looks like a mini apple tree but without the apples - i mean the leaves are like an apple tree leaf and the trunk look is straight and darkish just like an apple tree.
Also, it keeps dying and coming back and dying and coming back but this time it has been dryed up for longer than usual.
I make sure that the soil never goes dry and i dont think i over water it.
Does anyone have any ideas at all. Could it be a different tree in disguise?

You want to get a jump on the season growing outdoors. You start your seeds under some lights inside (lights on 24 hours or even 18 hours), say around February. Your plants are doing great and the temps outside are warming up every day. Finally the BIG day comes and you want to put them out, say April. The night temps are above 46f consistently and you are just busting at the seams to get those girls out under some real sunlight.

It is May or June now and you notice that your girls are starting to put clusters of pistils at the ends of their branches. You suspect that they are going into flower, then in a few days you know they are and you come here to Marijuana Passion with your concerns.

The reason they have gone into flower is the drastic change in hours of daylight compared the the hours of artificial light they had been under. Plain and simple as that.

Your plants are in early flower and you wonder what the heck is gonna happen now. They are small, they are early and you are freaked.

What will happen next is they will continue to look like they are in flower for a few weeks, developing buds nicely and trichlones too. Assuming you leave them out and don't kill them and start over. They will eventually give you some smoke if you leave them to go into the reveg stage then on to flowering normally early August.

Soon, (about two weeks) The buds will start to grow apart, elongate. Each budlet (do not know the biological term) will move apart and the stem will grow longer. The leaves will start to come out in threes and ones. Some will look twisted (see picture). As the weeks pass, you see the new growth look more and more normal (meaning that the leaves get less twisted and more like a normal MJ leaf). The earlier in the season this starts, the more new vegetative growth you will get.

Sometimes the plant will not grow much more taller or wider (by this I mean they will not be five or six footers, though sometimes they will). Or I should say mine don't. I have a short grow season and it seems every year I run into this problem. IF I put out plants early, even shielding them from cold weather.

I have learned, when I start seeds in late February, I use a 14 hours of light. This way, when I put them out mid May, they have almost exactly the same light as when they were inside at 14 hours. No reveg, just nice big plants. There are Links here to light tables that will show you exactly how many hours of daylight on a certain day at your exact location. That way you can plan on how much light to give your plants depending on the day you want to put them out.

I have also read that if you wait until June to put out your 24/7 plants you will be able to have some good vegetative growth before they start to flower, as the days are longest in June. That way they do not do the reveg thing.

I hope this helps someone else out. I was freaked myself, my first grow. Since then I have grown some pretty amazing plants using this technique of matching daylight to artificial light when moving from Indoor to Outdoor in Spring.

This is a Post Crash Thread. Please feel free to add your comments and experience with this subject.

Hick please add your experience on reveg.

1. Lavender goes into early flower in June.
2. Lavender in reveg (note the single, tripple and curled leaves)
3. Lavender after/during harvest in October. The leaves that were on the plant when it reveded have died.