Im thinking about air layering rather than "digging up" a large field maple
in my back yard. Is there anything special about doing this for wild trees
vs trees established in containers? The tree is about a 15-20 foot tall
maple. trunk diameter maybe 2-3 inches. My plan is to chop it to a stump
sometime soon. Then in the spring... I'm guessing it will get a rush of
some new growth and after it hardens off i can layer it and remove it by
summer.

thanks
steve lancaster pa

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Steve:
I am sure there are more experience on this list, that will chime in,
but rather than chop the tree and air layer in the same year sounds like
a lot of trauma for a tree. Plus, the best time to air layer would
probably be in late spring after the new flush of leaves have hardened
off.

If it was my tree I would do the trunk chop, wait a year or even two,
style the part you want to keep and then air layer.

Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7
http://bmee.net/rosner
http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48


Steve Wolfinger wrote:

Im thinking about air layering rather than "digging up" a large field maple
in my back yard. Is there anything special about doing this for wild trees
vs trees established in containers? The tree is about a 15-20 foot tall
maple. trunk diameter maybe 2-3 inches. My plan is to chop it to a stump
sometime soon. Then in the spring... I'm guessing it will get a rush of
some new growth and after it hardens off i can layer it and remove it by
summer.

thanks
steve lancaster pa




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Here's my thoughts....my theory. I may be totally off.

I trunk chop now.... while the tree is dormant. Since the tree is well
established with an extensive root system.... there should be a lot of
stored energy going to a small area in the spring.... the stump remaining.
because of this im thinking there should be some prolific growth and the
tree should be strong because the roots have never been touched. After the
leaves harden off in late spring......air layer at the base.. with a large
ring cut and wire tie off.

I guess it would be better to let the tree go for a year to recover.. but
would it really need to recover?.. it seems to me that because the roots
system has not been touched.. and the trunk chop done in late winter while
the tree is dormant ....that the trauma to the tree would really be minimal
(rather arrogant of me to assume??? ). and air layering sooner than later..
rather than training the tree in the ground... would give more time to
start developing the nebari.

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How far down do you intend to do your trunk chop? If the diameter is only
2-3 inches it would most likely be pretty low. I have never collected a
field grown tree, but I have done alot of reading about it because I have a
field grown Japanese Maple I want to dig up in a year or so. From what I
have read and been told it might be a good idea to take a shovel and drive
it down through the roots about a foot away from the base of the tree after
the new growth has hardened off. From what I gather, that will cause new
roots to grow in closer to the trunk and then when they have established
themselves you can do the trunk chop the following year and the new roots
will support the growth you want to develop your future design plans. After
you get your growth started then you can dig it up in spring and put it into
a training box.

Anyone with better ideas please chime in. Otherwise this is what I intend to
do with my field grown Japanese Maple next year.

--I crucified my hate and
held the world within my hands--
Neal Ross-Marysville CA


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I would wait several years before layering it off. By
leaving it in the ground the new apex will thicken and
blend into the stump a lot faster. Unless you plan to put
the layered top back into the ground (which I doubt.) If
you move it into a pot, it will be a long time before the
fact that it was trunk choped stops being obvious.


Rebecca Ridout-- --MD,USA
_____________________________
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the reason i would like to air layer.. is because the tree has a big ugly
curve right as it comes out of he ground

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On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:13:50 -0800, Becca Ridout
wrote:

I would wait several years before layering it off. By
leaving it in the ground the new apex will thicken and
blend into the stump a lot faster. Unless you plan to put
the layered top back into the ground (which I doubt.) If
you move it into a pot, it will be a long time before the
fact that it was trunk choped stops being obvious.


Rebecca Ridout-- --MD,USA
_____________________________
For the best comics, toys, movies, and more,
please visit http://www.tfaw.com/?qt=wmf

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*****
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*****
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that is a good point rebecca.... which brings me to another question. I
wish i had a place to plant out some of my other trees which are of course
in large nursery pots. I know trees thicken much quicker in the ground...
and this makes sense.. but what is the difference really... between using a
really large container to grow your tree out... and putting it in the
ground? the perfect soil drainage the earth provides? I have read that even
seedlings..just having sprouted will grow faster the more room they are
given (in say a large pot vs. an X-large pt) it almost seems as if
trees "know" where they are

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