[OhioGuy]

Just over 6 months ago, I purchased a pear tree that has 5 varieties
grafted onto it. It is about 5' tall, and perhaps a little over 3/4"
across at the base. It actually had 3 pears on it when I bought it. I
pruned 2 of them off, and let the third mature - we actually got a ripe
fruit to eat just 5 months after planting it.

The trouble is that the plant itself just sat there - the leaves
stayed green, but there was no growth at all this year, even with
fertilizer and regular waterings. (when I planted it, I also buried a
bag of composted cow manure under it, plus mixed in some of that
dehydrated plastic to help it retain water)

When I gave it a closer look, I saw something I had initially missed
in my excitement over finding a pear tree that wouldn't need a
pollinator. It turns out that the living part of the bark is actually
girdled perhaps 66% or 70% of the way around. The bark had a "flaky" or
crackled appearance. It didn't look bad from a few feet away, but a
very close inspection (what I should have done before purchasing it) it
was obvious something was wrong.

I took a knife and scraped away all of the flaky part. Then I used a
wire brush to agitate everything until I started seeing a little bit of
green here and there. Using a knife, I was able to find that the bark
is dead nearly 70% of the way around. No wonder why this thing was sort
of just sitting there! At more than $35, I certainly overpaid for it,
given the condition. Unfortunately, I also found it at a store that
doesn't have a 1 year guarantee, unlike the places I normally buy trees
and shrubs. :-(

The big question is whether this thing could ever heal itself. The
roots have evidently gotten somewhat established, because it was able to
survive through one of the driest summers we've had in a while, and even
bore a fruit the first year. However, since the plant itself pretty
much just sat there, I am very concerned over its long term ability to
thrive. I'm afraid it will become the "zombie plant", that just sits
there and never truly grows.

I've seen small trees heal places in their bark, maybe up to 30" of
the way around. In fact, my peach tree did that this year - it doubled
the size of the trunk, and doubled the height of the plant. However, I
think pears grow slower.

I actually went out and bought a really nice looking 5' nectarine
tree on sale for $12 at a local store yesterday, with the intention of
replacing this pear tree. I hated the idea of throwing out a tree I
paid nearly $40 for, but I was of the opinion that if it doesn't thrive
the first year, it probably won't thrive the 2nd. I believe a nectarine
is a fast growing tree, much like a peach. This one looks vigorous, and
doesn't need a pollinator.

My wife threw a fit, though, because she hates the idea of killing a
tree that is alive, especially since it did give us a pear to enjoy
right away.

Anyone have a good idea what chance a small pear tree like this would
have of healing such a large gap in the sapwood? If it was a side
branch, it wouldn't be an issue, but this is the main trunk. I think
that the missing 70% is a limiting factor in the tree's growth.

[Bill who putters]

In article , Ohioguy
wrote:

Just over 6 months ago, I purchased a pear tree that has 5 varieties
grafted onto it. It is about 5' tall, and perhaps a little over 3/4"
across at the base. It actually had 3 pears on it when I bought it. I
pruned 2 of them off, and let the third mature - we actually got a ripe
fruit to eat just 5 months after planting it.

The trouble is that the plant itself just sat there - the leaves
stayed green, but there was no growth at all this year, even with
fertilizer and regular waterings. (when I planted it, I also buried a
bag of composted cow manure under it, plus mixed in some of that
dehydrated plastic to help it retain water)

When I gave it a closer look, I saw something I had initially missed
in my excitement over finding a pear tree that wouldn't need a
pollinator. It turns out that the living part of the bark is actually
girdled perhaps 66% or 70% of the way around. The bark had a "flaky" or
crackled appearance. It didn't look bad from a few feet away, but a
very close inspection (what I should have done before purchasing it) it
was obvious something was wrong.

I took a knife and scraped away all of the flaky part. Then I used a
wire brush to agitate everything until I started seeing a little bit of
green here and there. Using a knife, I was able to find that the bark
is dead nearly 70% of the way around. No wonder why this thing was sort
of just sitting there! At more than $35, I certainly overpaid for it,
given the condition. Unfortunately, I also found it at a store that
doesn't have a 1 year guarantee, unlike the places I normally buy trees
and shrubs. :-(

The big question is whether this thing could ever heal itself. The
roots have evidently gotten somewhat established, because it was able to
survive through one of the driest summers we've had in a while, and even
bore a fruit the first year. However, since the plant itself pretty
much just sat there, I am very concerned over its long term ability to
thrive. I'm afraid it will become the "zombie plant", that just sits
there and never truly grows.

I've seen small trees heal places in their bark, maybe up to 30" of
the way around. In fact, my peach tree did that this year - it doubled
the size of the trunk, and doubled the height of the plant. However, I
think pears grow slower.

I actually went out and bought a really nice looking 5' nectarine
tree on sale for $12 at a local store yesterday, with the intention of
replacing this pear tree. I hated the idea of throwing out a tree I
paid nearly $40 for, but I was of the opinion that if it doesn't thrive
the first year, it probably won't thrive the 2nd. I believe a nectarine
is a fast growing tree, much like a peach. This one looks vigorous, and
doesn't need a pollinator.

My wife threw a fit, though, because she hates the idea of killing a
tree that is alive, especially since it did give us a pear to enjoy
right away.

Anyone have a good idea what chance a small pear tree like this would
have of healing such a large gap in the sapwood? If it was a side
branch, it wouldn't be an issue, but this is the main trunk. I think
that the missing 70% is a limiting factor in the tree's growth.

I'd give it a couple years.

http://www.treeworld.info/f29/girdli...-trees-15013.h
tml

or http://goo.gl/h97s

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Q0JfdP36kI
http://www.lascaux.culture.fr/index.php?lng=fr&acc=true

[phorbin]

In article , says...

Anyone have a good idea what chance a small pear tree like this would
have of healing such a large gap in the sapwood? If it was a side
branch, it wouldn't be an issue, but this is the main trunk. I think
that the missing 70% is a limiting factor in the tree's growth.

This is a vaguely remembered picture from an encyclopedia I owned as a
kid.

What I remember was a series of grafts bridging bark and cambium that
had been chewed away by rabbits.

I don't have the time to look it up but someone might be able to fill
this out.

[FarmI]

"Bill who putters" wrote in message
In article , Ohioguy
wrote:

Just over 6 months ago, I purchased a pear tree that has 5 varieties
grafted onto it. It is about 5' tall, and perhaps a little over 3/4"
across at the base.

I'd give it a couple years.

So would I. I think you are expecting quite a lot from this little tree.
It gave you a piece of fruit and its wounded and its only been in for a very
short time. Talk to it nicely and apologise for expecting it to give you
fruit and for thinking mean thoughts about it. Just treat it like a nice
little ornamental for a couple of years and see what it will do. I'd be
quite surprised if it didn't come good.

[OhioGuy]

Wow - amazing that anybody would purposefully gird their tree trunk
just to try getting a temporary increase in fruit! I'd be far too
worried about disease introduction. I had enough trouble with some sort
of borer in our newly planted Hale Haven peach this year. Thankfully,
since I didn't have fruit to worry about, I was able to use a systemic
insecticide, which killed all of the borers. The tree probably more
than quintupled its mass in the past 5 months.

And yes, I suppose I have the most experience with the faster growing
fruit trees like the peaches, which can have an amazing rate of growth
for the first few years. I thought that the pear would be at least
twice the original size by this fall. Perhaps I should have followed my
instincts, and taken all 3 pears off of it.


What I remember was a series of grafts bridging bark and cambium that
had been chewed away by rabbits.

I actually had this thought, wishing there were some way to encourage
living tissue to cross the gap. My grandparents have a couple of
healthy adult pear trees, and I suppose that a small branch could serve
as a donor. My Father actually grafted another variety onto each of
them so that they would produce more fruit, so perhaps he would be
willing to try a graft. Can attempting to do a trunk graft in a
situation where the live portion is only about 30% of the way around
cause more harm than good?

[phorbin]

In article , says...


What I remember was a series of grafts bridging bark and cambium that
had been chewed away by rabbits.

I actually had this thought, wishing there were some way to encourage
living tissue to cross the gap. My grandparents have a couple of
healthy adult pear trees, and I suppose that a small branch could serve
as a donor. My Father actually grafted another variety onto each of
them so that they would produce more fruit, so perhaps he would be
willing to try a graft. Can attempting to do a trunk graft in a
situation where the live portion is only about 30% of the way around
cause more harm than good?

*Do talk to someone who knows.*

I've a trick memory and remember something of everything I've read or
seen in books (but only in books). This dates back to when I was 7. I
trust my memory to give me enough information to begin research or to
ask the right questions ...and to perform the occasional party trick.

The picture is of a number of small, flexible sticks plugged at
intervals into the cambium below and above the gap. I don't recall the
description of the process.

They didn't show the shape of the ends in a way that connected them well
enough to the image I'm relating for my memory to bring up more than one
picture.

[Pavel314[_2_]]

On Oct 10, 10:01*am, phorbin wrote:
In article , says...

What I remember was a series of grafts bridging bark and cambium that
had been chewed away by rabbits.

* *I actually had this thought, wishing there were some way to encourage
living tissue to cross the gap. *My grandparents have a couple of
healthy *adult pear trees, and I suppose that a small branch could serve
as a donor. *My Father actually grafted another variety onto each of
them so that they would produce more fruit, so perhaps he would be
willing to try a graft. *Can attempting to do a trunk graft in a
situation where the live portion is only about 30% of the way around
cause more harm than good?

*Do talk to someone who knows.*

I've a trick memory and remember something of everything I've read or
seen in books (but only in books). This dates back to when I was 7. I
trust my memory to give me enough information to begin research or to
ask the right questions ...and to perform the occasional party trick.

The picture is of a number of small, flexible sticks plugged at
intervals into the cambium below and above the gap. I don't recall the
description of the process.

They didn't show the shape of the ends in a way that connected them well
enough to the image I'm relating for my memory to bring up more than one
picture.

Here's a good example of a bridge graft:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...s/dg0532c.html

It's about half-way down the page.

Paul

[phorbin]

In article c5983e84-9052-4e9d-9a54-b7720ea4b843
@k13g2000vbq.googlegroups.com, says...


Here's a good example of a bridge graft:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...s/dg0532c.html

It's about half-way down the page.

Thanks.

It's essentially the same ...but mine was in colour :-).

That's a really useful article.

[Gunner[_3_]]

1) Anyone have a good idea what chance a small pear tree like this
would
have of healing such a large gap in the sapwood?

If the tree did not outright die nor show signs of die back in the
canopy this year it would indicate there was a good vascular flow
from roots to shoots, I would not be so alarmed that it" just sat
there" in its first year, it apparently was healing up and I bet it
will catch up to be where it is supposed to be in a few years There
can be many reasons it did not grow out. It just needs some time ( &
some TLC) to repair itself, which it will do.

2) Can attempting to do a trunk graft in a
situation where the live portion is only about 30% of the way around
cause more harm than good?

Again don't get hung up on the 30%. the main issue here it to keep it
stabilized ( see 1 above) so it will continue to grow on its own. It
appears it has, further It will repair itself and continue to grow,
most likely catching up with other of its age group. Now, you did
open up a lot of area ripe for infection so protect the tree this
winter and prune/fertilize properly, (not just follow old folk lore)
You should fertilize it not just for fruiting, but for building the
trunk back up ( avoid excessive N) and give it a couple of years to do
this

There are many things to try if you want to experiment w/ it. Perhaps
try bridge grafting as in the 1st two links below. If you determine
that it is still going downhill and beyond repair, consider root
layering further up the trunk to where you can still get all the
varietal grafts, yet still find some healthy bark or at least enough
that you can cover up. Perhaps I would not have a problem grafting
your graft onto new root stock. Lots of methods/techniques you can
try it you have the inclination and time.


BTW, I have a rescued 70+yo Golden plum with major trunk damage. The
tree walled off a 3-4 " strip running down an ~8" trunk and she still
produces quite a lot of fruit. I just have to protect the old wood as
best I can from insects and rot, Lime Sulphur works well for this.

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/...cts/98-003.htm
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distrib...re/dg0532.html
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/tree...ark-damage.htm

good luck

[Mathink]

Talk to it nicely and apologise for expecting it to give you
fruit and for thinking mean thoughts about it.

Yeah, and definitely don't let it see it's possible replacement. That'd crush its hopes and dreams!