[General Schvantzkoph]

Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to be
some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a source for
anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of Legend seeds but I'd
like to have a few more options.

[[email protected][_2_]]

On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to be
some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a source for
anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of Legend seeds but I'd
like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

[Ian Gay]

wrote:

On Mar 7, 5:33Â*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to
be some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a
source for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of
Legend seeds but I'd like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

The main thing is to keep the leaves dry. Don't expose plants to rain,
and don't water by sprinkling from above. (And of course, don't add
blighted plants to your compost heap). I've never had blight in my
greenhouse, lots of it on unprotected plants outside.

Ian

--
*********** To reply by e-mail, make w single in address **************

[Billy[_9_]]

In article
,
" wrote:

On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to be
some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a source for
anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of Legend seeds but I'd
like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

Even with chemicals, if it rains, you're screwed. Otherwise, train and
trim tomato vine so that it is open to sun and drying winds.
--
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

[[email protected][_2_]]

On Mar 10, 2:08*pm, Ian Gay wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to
be some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a
source for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of
Legend seeds but I'd like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

The main thing is to keep the leaves dry. Don't expose plants to rain,
and don't water by sprinkling from above. (And of course, don't add
blighted plants to your compost heap). I've never had blight in my
greenhouse, lots of it on unprotected plants outside.

Ian

--
*********** To reply by e-mail, make w single in address **************

I don't have a practical way to protect the plants from the rain
(greenhouse or very large tarp I guess),
it seems blight was a problem once every 5 years, now it's every year.
I use to have 8 foot plants, now,
barely 4 in a good year

I also believe it is an airborne problem as I relocated the garden
with no benefits.

Still, I have a friend across town who has no problems and doesn't do
anything, his bottom
leaves are totally green (no disease whatsoever) up until the first
day of frost! Ah, I remember those days....

[Bill who putters]

In article
,
" wrote:

On Mar 10, 2:08*pm, Ian Gay wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to
be some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a
source for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of
Legend seeds but I'd like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

The main thing is to keep the leaves dry. Don't expose plants to rain,
and don't water by sprinkling from above. (And of course, don't add
blighted plants to your compost heap). I've never had blight in my
greenhouse, lots of it on unprotected plants outside.

Ian

--
*********** To reply by e-mail, make w single in address **************

I don't have a practical way to protect the plants from the rain
(greenhouse or very large tarp I guess),
it seems blight was a problem once every 5 years, now it's every year.
I use to have 8 foot plants, now,
barely 4 in a good year

I also believe it is an airborne problem as I relocated the garden
with no benefits.

Still, I have a friend across town who has no problems and doesn't do
anything, his bottom
leaves are totally green (no disease whatsoever) up until the first
day of frost! Ah, I remember those days....

Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending

[fsadfa]

On Mar 10, 2:14*pm, Billy wrote:
In article
,

" wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:33 pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to be
some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a source for
anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of Legend seeds but I'd
like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

Even with chemicals, if it rains, you're screwed. Otherwise, train and
trim tomato vine so that it is open to sun and drying winds.
--

I noticed chemicals give me one/two weeks of protection, rain or not,
it must kill all the fungus/spores on contact as I notice the blight
stops immediately, I guess the spores take a week or so to gather up
their numbers and take hold again

[zxcvbob]

General Schvantzkoph wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to be
some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a source for
anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of Legend seeds but I'd
like to have a few more options.


I grew Legend last year and was not impressed -- although the weather
was so bad for tomatoes and peppers it might not have been a fair
test. The few fruit that I got tasted good, but the plants were
eat-up with blight just like any other tomato, and the yield was not
all that good. However I also grew some Porter tomatoes and those
plants were big and healthy (they have no particular resistances, but
were bred to tolerate poor weather.) So I'll probably plant the
Porters again this year, and maybe a few Better Boys. Go back to what
works.

Giving the plants lots of nitrogen early in the season so they grow
big and lush seems to help. Then stop with the N once they start
blooming.

Or you can just plant tomatillos instead of tomatoes. ;-)

Bob

[General Schvantzkoph]

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:08:49 -0600, zxcvbob wrote:

General Schvantzkoph wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to be
some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a source
for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of Legend seeds
but I'd like to have a few more options.


I grew Legend last year and was not impressed -- although the weather
was so bad for tomatoes and peppers it might not have been a fair test.
The few fruit that I got tasted good, but the plants were eat-up with
blight just like any other tomato, and the yield was not all that good.
However I also grew some Porter tomatoes and those plants were big and
healthy (they have no particular resistances, but were bred to tolerate
poor weather.) So I'll probably plant the Porters again this year, and
maybe a few Better Boys. Go back to what works.

Giving the plants lots of nitrogen early in the season so they grow big
and lush seems to help. Then stop with the N once they start blooming.

Or you can just plant tomatillos instead of tomatoes. ;-)

Bob

I sprayed last year but I wasn't happy about it. I managed to arrest the
blight enough so that I got some tomatoes but growing your own fungicide
covered tomatoes defeats the purpose of having a home garden.

I've ordered seeds this year. Last year's massive late blight infestation
was blamed on the big box stores selling tainted plants. I bought plants
from both of them as well as from local garden supply stores. This year
I'm going to do everything from seed.

I've ordered a packet of Legends as well as several heirloom varieties,
Black Sea Man Tomato, Organic Yellow Pear, and Italian Grape.

[Billy[_9_]]

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
" wrote:

On Mar 10, 2:08*pm, Ian Gay wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to
be some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a
source for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of
Legend seeds but I'd like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

The main thing is to keep the leaves dry. Don't expose plants to rain,
and don't water by sprinkling from above. (And of course, don't add
blighted plants to your compost heap). I've never had blight in my
greenhouse, lots of it on unprotected plants outside.

Ian

--
*********** To reply by e-mail, make w single in address **************

I don't have a practical way to protect the plants from the rain
(greenhouse or very large tarp I guess),
it seems blight was a problem once every 5 years, now it's every year.
I use to have 8 foot plants, now,
barely 4 in a good year

I also believe it is an airborne problem as I relocated the garden
with no benefits.

Still, I have a friend across town who has no problems and doesn't do
anything, his bottom
leaves are totally green (no disease whatsoever) up until the first
day of frost! Ah, I remember those days....

Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx *

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight.* Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585
--
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

[Bill who putters]

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
" wrote:

On Mar 10, 2:08*pm, Ian Gay wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 7, 5:33*pm, General Schvantzkoph
wrote:
Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are late blight resistant
besides Legend? I've been hunting around the net and there seems to
be some promises of new varieties this year but I haven't found a
source for anything except Legend. I'm going to order a pack of
Legend seeds but I'd like to have a few more options.

I hear legend isn't all that great for resistance to blight, new
strains evolve, lots of chemicals is the only solution to blight I
have found, it really sucks!

The main thing is to keep the leaves dry. Don't expose plants to rain,
and don't water by sprinkling from above. (And of course, don't add
blighted plants to your compost heap). I've never had blight in my
greenhouse, lots of it on unprotected plants outside.

Ian

--
*********** To reply by e-mail, make w single in address **************

I don't have a practical way to protect the plants from the rain
(greenhouse or very large tarp I guess),
it seems blight was a problem once every 5 years, now it's every year.
I use to have 8 foot plants, now,
barely 4 in a good year

I also believe it is an airborne problem as I relocated the garden
with no benefits.

Still, I have a friend across town who has no problems and doesn't do
anything, his bottom
leaves are totally green (no disease whatsoever) up until the first
day of frost! Ah, I remember those days....

Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx *

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight.* Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585

Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...tural%20Myths_
files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf

--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending

[Billy[_9_]]

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:



Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx *

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight.* Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585

Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...tural%20Myths_
files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf

I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does
nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience
with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most
wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and
now to ozone).
http://translate.google.com/translat.../bpsommelier.b
logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_&
sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CBoQ7gEw BQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt
richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3D X%26rls%3Den

In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners
work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to
have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I
would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after
sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled.
--
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

[Bill who putters]

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:



Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx *

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight.* Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585

Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...tural%20Myths_
files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf

I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does
nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience
with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most
wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and
now to ozone).
http://translate.google.com/translat.../bpsommelier.b
logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_&
sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CBoQ7gEw BQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt
richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3D X%26rls%3Den

In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners
work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to
have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I
would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after
sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled.

Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of sorts but I
thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution
as you cut. Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. I just keep
em sharp and oil when they may need it.
Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. I
believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the
same spot is wise. Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest
and healing. Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come
back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean.
The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years but Green peppers are
essentially banished from our area due too long lived soil pathogens.

--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending

[fsadfa]

On Mar 11, 12:19*pm, Bill who putters wrote:
In article
,





*Billy wrote:
In article ,
*Bill who putters wrote:

*Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight. Juliet also exhibited some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...36bd-4aa6-aeff
-7e3da663f585

* Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...icultural%20My....
files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf

I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does
nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience
with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most
wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and
now to ozone).
http://translate.google.com/translat.../bpsommelier.b
logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_&
sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CBoQ7gEw BQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt
richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3D X%26rls%3Den

In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners
work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to
have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I
would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after
sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled.

*Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of *sorts but I
thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution
as you cut. *Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. *I just keep
em sharp and oil when they may need it.
* * *Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment.. *I
believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the
same spot is wise. * Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest
and healing. * Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come
back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean.
The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years *but Green peppers are
essentially banished from our area *due too long lived soil pathogens.

Harmony, I don't think so, nature is about disease and massive
extinction as the norm, tomatoes are not native to the USA for a
reason, they are bred to taste good to humans, it does havoc to their
survival abilities though. Hybrids are the extreme, their destiny is
to go extinct in one season by design, you want a all natural fool
proof tomato plant that lives in harmony with nature? it's fruit will
probably taste like a potato! and bear 1/10 the fruit. Modern tomato
plants are like most modern milk cows and dogs, they would never
survive in the wild without massive human support system behind them.

[Bill who putters]

In article
,
fsadfa wrote:

On Mar 11, 12:19*pm, Bill who putters wrote:
In article
,





*Billy wrote:
In article ,
*Bill who putters wrote:

*Worth a look /try.

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx

But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late)
and
that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've
never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato
like
Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html

Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days
Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish
Dwarf:
60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days,
Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html

Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green
Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45
days
http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html

Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom
http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx

-- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged
wetting of leaves.
-- Make sure to give plants space.
-- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry.
-- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the
fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a
plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them.
-- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a
10-percent
bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the
equipment.
When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose
disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there
aren't
any.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html

Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in
Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and
Juliet
have some resistance to foliar late blight. Juliet also exhibited
some
resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani).
http://www.extension.org/article/18361

What to do if you think you have late blight
The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make
certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the
University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to
make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made,
then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic
bag
should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without
a
living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants
that
were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled
because
there is a very high probability that they will also be infected.
Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will
potentially
save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause
the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also
have
an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your
neighbours'
crops.
http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...09-36bd-4aa6-a
eff
-7e3da663f585

* Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter.

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...icultural%20My...
files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf

I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does
nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience
with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most
wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and
now to ozone).
http://translate.google.com/translat.../bpsommelier.b
logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_&
sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CBoQ7gEw BQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt
richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3D X%26rls%3Den

In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners
work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to
have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I
would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after
sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled.

*Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of *sorts but I
thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution
as you cut. *Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. *I just keep
em sharp and oil when they may need it.
* * *Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. *I
believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the
same spot is wise. * Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest
and healing. * Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come
back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean.
The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years *but Green peppers are
essentially banished from our area *due too long lived soil pathogens.

Harmony, I don't think so, nature is about disease and massive
extinction as the norm, tomatoes are not native to the USA for a
reason, they are bred to taste good to humans, it does havoc to their
survival abilities though. Hybrids are the extreme, their destiny is
to go extinct in one season by design, you want a all natural fool
proof tomato plant that lives in harmony with nature? it's fruit will
probably taste like a potato! and bear 1/10 the fruit. Modern tomato
plants are like most modern milk cows and dogs, they would never
survive in the wild without massive human support system behind them.

Marglobe 1917 tasty and tough.

http://www.vegetableseed.net/heirloo...oom-tomato-see
ds/heirloom-red-tomato-seeds/marglobe.html

--
Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending