Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes take
patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero sprouts for two
years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get the okra seedlings in
the ground .

--
Snag

On 06/06/2015 08:55 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes take
patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero sprouts for two
years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get the okra seedlings in
the ground .


Hi Terry,

Never ever been successful with Peppers. Grew Poblanos
(called Ancho after they are dried) one year. Got like
three tiny peppers off of two plants. I feel your pain.

As an experiment last year I planted nine zukes on a particular
hill. And ALL NINE sprouted. So I left them to see what would
happen. They all came out stunted. I got one pickle sized
fruit total from that mound.

-T

On 06/06/2015 08:40 PM, T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T


I am concerned that the roots would be entangled and trying
to separate them would kill both of them

T wrote:
....
I am concerned that the roots would be entangled and trying
to separate them would kill both of them

if you really need that many plants you can try
to untangle them, but disturbing the root systems
does cost some time/growth in recovery after
transplanting.

i would plant them out as they are and then
give them a week or two and then snip the weakest
plants to give the stronger plants the space.


songbird

T wrote:
On 06/06/2015 08:55 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes
take patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero
sprouts for two years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get
the okra seedlings in the ground .


Hi Terry,

Never ever been successful with Peppers. Grew Poblanos
(called Ancho after they are dried) one year. Got like
three tiny peppers off of two plants. I feel your pain.

As an experiment last year I planted nine zukes on a particular
hill. And ALL NINE sprouted. So I left them to see what would
happen. They all came out stunted. I got one pickle sized
fruit total from that mound.

-T

Well , nine IS a bit much ... on the peppers , once I can get them to grow
, I usually get pretty good yields . This year I have red bell peppers and
got some Serrano's to grow . Last year I grew some cayennes , year before it
was jalapenos . 3 or 4 plants will produce a couple of years worth for the 2
of us .
--
Snag

On Sun, 7 Jun 2015 06:58:04 -0400, songbird
wrote:

T wrote:
...
I am concerned that the roots would be entangled and trying
to separate them would kill both of them

if you really need that many plants you can try
to untangle them, but disturbing the root systems
does cost some time/growth in recovery after
transplanting.

i would plant them out as they are and then
give them a week or two and then snip the weakest
plants to give the stronger plants the space.


songbird


I separate all the time with with tomatoes and corn. Some seedlings I
would not dare mess with but these have proved no problem.

There is a bit of method to the madness, but my success rate is
extremely high.

I also overcrowd some beds beyond any sane recommendations. At times,
it takes a different kind of tending in season, but with most of what
I grow it works well. Only complete failure with overly close quarters
has been consistent and occurs with broccoli.

Not to say all other crops will thrive this way, but some will
tomatoes, various bush and pole beans and corn.

In other cases the crowding is done deliberately to affect the sizes
of the crop - I love micro/small greens and itty-bitty radishes.

I use the garden as one vast laboratory.

Boron

On 06/07/2015 03:58 AM, songbird wrote:
T wrote:
...
I am concerned that the roots would be entangled and trying
to separate them would kill both of them

if you really need that many plants you can try
to untangle them, but disturbing the root systems
does cost some time/growth in recovery after
transplanting.

i would plant them out as they are and then
give them a week or two and then snip the weakest
plants to give the stronger plants the space.


songbird


Thank you!

On 06/07/2015 03:58 AM, songbird wrote:
i would plant them out as they are and then
give them a week or two and then snip the weakest
plants to give the stronger plants the space.

That is actually pretty cleaver. What is growing best
in the pots may not be the best at surviving the transplant.

:-)

T wrote:
songbird wrote:
i would plant them out as they are and then
give them a week or two and then snip the weakest
plants to give the stronger plants the space.

That is actually pretty cleaver. What is growing best
in the pots may not be the best at surviving the transplant.

:-)

sometimes i can be a clutz and drop a plant
or break a stem by accident... and it seems like
things like cucumber, squash, etc. have pretty
brittle stems that can snap easily when they are
first getting going.


songbird

Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes take
patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero sprouts
for two years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get the okra
seedlings in the ground .

Unless your seed is old it is common to get very high germination rates for
curcubits so I wouldn't be putting more than one seed per pot anyway. If
you do, chop the weakest and don't disturb the roots of the best, curcubits
resent this and it will tend to set them back. This is the reason that the
traditional planting advice is to sow directly.

My system is to plant them in tubes, the square-section plastic sort that
you buy tubestock in that are about 15cm (6") deep and 5cm (2") across.
These encourage the roots to go down not around and you can get the whole
plug out in one chunk at transplant time so there is no transplant shock.
These are much more effective than shallow jiffy pots. If you want (say) 3
plants you can sow 5 or 6 and plant out only the best. This system costs
almost nothing and invariably produces strong seedlings that take off in the
ground quickly.

--
David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Corporate propaganda is their
protection against democracy

On 06/09/2015 04:42 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes take
patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero sprouts
for two years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get the okra
seedlings in the ground .

Unless your seed is old it is common to get very high germination rates
for curcubits so I wouldn't be putting more than one seed per pot
anyway. If you do, chop the weakest and don't disturb the roots of the
best, curcubits resent this and it will tend to set them back. This is
the reason that the traditional planting advice is to sow directly.

My system is to plant them in tubes, the square-section plastic sort
that you buy tubestock in that are about 15cm (6") deep and 5cm (2")
across. These encourage the roots to go down not around and you can get
the whole plug out in one chunk at transplant time so there is no
transplant shock. These are much more effective than shallow jiffy
pots. If you want (say) 3 plants you can sow 5 or 6 and plant out only
the best. This system costs almost nothing and invariably produces
strong seedlings that take off in the ground quickly.


Thank you!

T wrote:
On 06/09/2015 04:42 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes take
patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero sprouts
for two years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get the
okra seedlings in the ground .

Unless your seed is old it is common to get very high germination
rates for curcubits so I wouldn't be putting more than one seed per
pot anyway. If you do, chop the weakest and don't disturb the roots
of the best, curcubits resent this and it will tend to set them
back. This is the reason that the traditional planting advice is to
sow directly. My system is to plant them in tubes, the square-section
plastic sort
that you buy tubestock in that are about 15cm (6") deep and 5cm (2")
across. These encourage the roots to go down not around and you can
get the whole plug out in one chunk at transplant time so there is no
transplant shock. These are much more effective than shallow jiffy
pots. If you want (say) 3 plants you can sow 5 or 6 and plant out
only the best. This system costs almost nothing and invariably
produces strong seedlings that take off in the ground quickly.


Thank you!

Toilet paper tubes work well too ...

--
Snag

On 6/10/2015 1:34 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
On 06/09/2015 04:42 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes take
patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero sprouts
for two years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to get the
okra seedlings in the ground .

Unless your seed is old it is common to get very high germination
rates for curcubits so I wouldn't be putting more than one seed per
pot anyway. If you do, chop the weakest and don't disturb the roots
of the best, curcubits resent this and it will tend to set them
back. This is the reason that the traditional planting advice is to
sow directly. My system is to plant them in tubes, the square-section
plastic sort
that you buy tubestock in that are about 15cm (6") deep and 5cm (2")
across. These encourage the roots to go down not around and you can
get the whole plug out in one chunk at transplant time so there is no
transplant shock. These are much more effective than shallow jiffy
pots. If you want (say) 3 plants you can sow 5 or 6 and plant out
only the best. This system costs almost nothing and invariably
produces strong seedlings that take off in the ground quickly.


Thank you!

Toilet paper tubes work well too ...

Yup, took your advice on those last fall, also can include paper towel
rolls, neatly cut of course. They rotted out quicker than the peat moss
cups and just disappeared.

Hot as Hades outside now, having to water the raised beds daily. Squash
is dying out from the heat, green beans are blooming again, crowder peas
just started blooming, tomatoes are coming in ripe heavily as are the
eggplant and cukes. For some reason the sweet chiles aren't doing well,
haven't found out why yet as last year we got tons of chiles.

George

George Shirley wrote:
On 6/10/2015 1:34 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
On 06/09/2015 04:42 PM, David Hare-Scott wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
T wrote:
Hi All,

I planted zuke seeds in these cute little 3" peat moss
cups. Three per cup. Not all the cups have sprouted
(I know, PATIENCE!).

When I go to plant them in my garden, can I separate
the multiple sprouts from the same cups, or should
I just prune out the two small ones?

Many thanks,
-T

I like to leave the 2 strongest in each hill . You think zukes
take patience ? Try sprouting Anaheim peppers . My record is zero
sprouts for two years effort . Grrr . Which reminds me I need to
get the okra seedlings in the ground .

Unless your seed is old it is common to get very high germination
rates for curcubits so I wouldn't be putting more than one seed per
pot anyway. If you do, chop the weakest and don't disturb the
roots of the best, curcubits resent this and it will tend to set
them back. This is the reason that the traditional planting
advice is to sow directly. My system is to plant them in tubes,
the square-section plastic sort
that you buy tubestock in that are about 15cm (6") deep and 5cm
(2") across. These encourage the roots to go down not around and
you can get the whole plug out in one chunk at transplant time so
there is no transplant shock. These are much more effective than
shallow jiffy pots. If you want (say) 3 plants you can sow 5 or 6
and plant out only the best. This system costs almost nothing and
invariably produces strong seedlings that take off in the ground
quickly.

Thank you!

Toilet paper tubes work well too ...

Yup, took your advice on those last fall, also can include paper towel
rolls, neatly cut of course. They rotted out quicker than the peat
moss cups and just disappeared.

Hot as Hades outside now, having to water the raised beds daily.
Squash is dying out from the heat, green beans are blooming again,
crowder peas just started blooming, tomatoes are coming in ripe
heavily as are the eggplant and cukes. For some reason the sweet
chiles aren't doing well, haven't found out why yet as last year we
got tons of chiles.
George

I finally got off my butt and planted some more green onions today ... and
decided to go ahead and plant some herbs , a couple of hills of gourds ,
some habaneros and a row of red ripper peas and some whipoorwill peas .
Pretty late , but most of that seed came from the seed swap a couple of
weeks ago . The swap was supposed to be in Feb, got snowed/iced out .
This is my first attempt at growing dried peas/beans , we'll see how that
goes .
--
Snag