Hi there,

I have 3 maples trees in my garden. 2 of them are getting sick while
the other is growing well. The leaves and fresh bud are drying away
but doesn't seems to be dying coz its been like that for months. Its
summer here in Australia but if it is due to lack of water then all 3
maples should have the same problem. But I only have 2 having that
problem and I water them constantly. Any idea ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

Try mixing a little household bleach with water in a spray bottle about two
caps should do it.Might have a fungus or bacteria if so this will kill the
problem if not it want hurt anything I have two maples also. Best regards
Tom C.





"Andrew Tan" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I have 3 maples trees in my garden. 2 of them are getting sick while
the other is growing well. The leaves and fresh bud are drying away
but doesn't seems to be dying coz its been like that for months. Its
summer here in Australia but if it is due to lack of water then all 3
maples should have the same problem. But I only have 2 having that
problem and I water them constantly. Any idea ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

Tom C wrote:

Try mixing a little household bleach with water in a spray bottle about two
caps should do it.Might have a fungus or bacteria if so this will kill the
problem if not it want hurt anything I have two maples also. Best regards
Tom C.

Gosh - don't spray ANYTHING on the foliage of a Japanese maple - they are
extremely photosensitive to even foliar fertilizer sprayed on them and it is a
sure way to have them defoliate. Household bleach will have little affect on
the disease organisms you mention and can have a whole lot of affect on the
tree. If buds and leaves are dying on an otherwise healthy tree, it may be
exhibiting symptoms of verticilium wilt and there is nothing you can do for it.
Care for your tree as normal - the test will be when it comes time to leaf out
in the spring. Research verticilium wilt on the net and see if anything
described is the way your tree is acting.





"Andrew Tan" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I have 3 maples trees in my garden. 2 of them are getting sick while
the other is growing well. The leaves and fresh bud are drying away
but doesn't seems to be dying coz its been like that for months. Its
summer here in Australia but if it is due to lack of water then all 3
maples should have the same problem. But I only have 2 having that
problem and I water them constantly. Any idea ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

All,

Thankx for your reply. Looks like I should wait and see.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Tom C wrote:

Try mixing a little household bleach with water in a spray bottle about two
caps should do it.Might have a fungus or bacteria if so this will kill the
problem if not it want hurt anything I have two maples also. Best regards
Tom C.

Gosh - don't spray ANYTHING on the foliage of a Japanese maple - they are
extremely photosensitive to even foliar fertilizer sprayed on them and it is a
sure way to have them defoliate. Household bleach will have little affect on
the disease organisms you mention and can have a whole lot of affect on the
tree. If buds and leaves are dying on an otherwise healthy tree, it may be
exhibiting symptoms of verticilium wilt and there is nothing you can do for it.
Care for your tree as normal - the test will be when it comes time to leaf out
in the spring. Research verticilium wilt on the net and see if anything
described is the way your tree is acting.





"Andrew Tan" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I have 3 maples trees in my garden. 2 of them are getting sick while
the other is growing well. The leaves and fresh bud are drying away
but doesn't seems to be dying coz its been like that for months. Its
summer here in Australia but if it is due to lack of water then all 3
maples should have the same problem. But I only have 2 having that
problem and I water them constantly. Any idea ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

On 30 Mar 2003 05:01:42 -0800, (Andrew
Tan) wrote:

All,

Thankx for your reply. Looks like I should wait and see.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Tom C wrote:

Try mixing a little household bleach with water in a spray bottle about two
caps should do it.Might have a fungus or bacteria if so this will kill the
problem if not it want hurt anything I have two maples also. Best regards
Tom C.

Gosh - don't spray ANYTHING on the foliage of a Japanese maple - they are
extremely photosensitive to even foliar fertilizer sprayed on them and it is a
sure way to have them defoliate. Household bleach will have little affect on
the disease organisms you mention and can have a whole lot of affect on the
tree. If buds and leaves are dying on an otherwise healthy tree, it may be
exhibiting symptoms of verticilium wilt and there is nothing you can do for it.
Care for your tree as normal - the test will be when it comes time to leaf out
in the spring. Research verticilium wilt on the net and see if anything
described is the way your tree is acting.





"Andrew Tan" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I have 3 maples trees in my garden. 2 of them are getting sick while
the other is growing well. The leaves and fresh bud are drying away
but doesn't seems to be dying coz its been like that for months. Its
summer here in Australia but if it is due to lack of water then all 3
maples should have the same problem. But I only have 2 having that
problem and I water them constantly. Any idea ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew


Japanese Maples are sensitive to harsh fertilizers (and many
chemicals). If you overfed the tree that might cause a problem.
Examine the plant closely and back off on the fertilizing for now.
Japanese maples are not heavy feeders but will benefit from (stingy
applications of) compost tea, fish emulsion, old cow manure, "Holly
tone," etc. Mulch underneath the tree once a year using compost,
pine needles, bark chunks, etc. If your tree is under 3 years old,
make sure they get one inch of water per week, otherwise give them a
good drink twice a month during the dry season. The mulch will
conserve moisture, protect the delicate root system, and provide
nutrients.
--
Phish©

Thats interesting it never hurt anything I put it on (bleach that is)



"Pam" wrote in message
...


Tom C wrote:

Try mixing a little household bleach with water in a spray bottle about
two
caps should do it.Might have a fungus or bacteria if so this will kill
the
problem if not it want hurt anything I have two maples also. Best
regards
Tom C.

Gosh - don't spray ANYTHING on the foliage of a Japanese maple - they are
extremely photosensitive to even foliar fertilizer sprayed on them and it
is a
sure way to have them defoliate. Household bleach will have little affect
on
the disease organisms you mention and can have a whole lot of affect on
the
tree. If buds and leaves are dying on an otherwise healthy tree, it may be
exhibiting symptoms of verticilium wilt and there is nothing you can do
for it.
Care for your tree as normal - the test will be when it comes time to leaf
out
in the spring. Research verticilium wilt on the net and see if anything
described is the way your tree is acting.





"Andrew Tan" wrote in message
m...
Hi there,

I have 3 maples trees in my garden. 2 of them are getting sick while
the other is growing well. The leaves and fresh bud are drying away
but doesn't seems to be dying coz its been like that for months. Its
summer here in Australia but if it is due to lack of water then all 3
maples should have the same problem. But I only have 2 having that
problem and I water them constantly. Any idea ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

All,

Thankx again. Just one follow up question regarding verticilium wilt.
I have reaxamine my maple tree. Seems like it begins to bud again.
What I want to know is that if what I got is verticilium wilt, does it
mean budding will not happen again ? Just want to make sure my maple
really has verticilium wilt which is depressing. I have done some
research on the net and looks like there's no cure for it. What should
I do to clear out the virus if it is the case, e.g. get rid of the
tree, dig out all the soil around it ? I have 2 other perfect maple
near by and I am bit worry that its going to kill them all as well.
Thankx

Andrew

Andrew Tan wrote:

All,

Thankx again. Just one follow up question regarding verticilium wilt.
I have reaxamine my maple tree. Seems like it begins to bud again.
What I want to know is that if what I got is verticilium wilt, does it
mean budding will not happen again ? Just want to make sure my maple
really has verticilium wilt which is depressing. I have done some
research on the net and looks like there's no cure for it. What should
I do to clear out the virus if it is the case, e.g. get rid of the
tree, dig out all the soil around it ? I have 2 other perfect maple
near by and I am bit worry that its going to kill them all as well.
Thankx


I hate answering like this but here it is - it depends. V.W. can
demonstrate different patterns of spread. Typically, a single branch or
branches will first exhibit the symptoms you described, eventually
followed by the rest of the tree. It can be a slow progression (over the
course of weeks or months) or it can happen very rapidly - almost
overnight. If your tree is budding out, that is a very good sign! Watch to
make sure the budding is uniform over the canopy of the tree. If you see
signs that a branch is not budding, prune it off and examine it in detail
- is there streaking under the bark surface or a dark center in the
branch? These are the typical VW indicators.

As to getting rid of it........not really possible. It is a fungus that is
present pretty much in any soil. It is opportunistic in that it invades
when trees are vulnerable from various stresses or when wounded (usually
root disturbance, less often just from pruning). Sterilize pruners after
using them on plants where you suspect this problem. In fact, it's a good
idea to sterilize them regularly anyway and always after using them on a
diseased plant.

If the tree succumbs to VW, cut it down, but don't dig out the root system
if you suspect there may be co-mingling of roots with your other maples.
If they are far enough away that this is not a problem, its okay to remove
the stump and roots. Avoid cultivating in the root zone of the other
maples and make sure all your gardening tools are well cleaned.

Aerated compost tea is about the best antidote to this problem. If you
catch it early enough and apply the tea biweekly as a soil drench in the
drip zone through the growing season, you can often destroy the fungus.

More than just maples are affected by this problem. Research should
indicate which other plants you have which might be vulnerable and which
plants are resistant that you could plant in place of your maple, should
you lose it to this problem.

I am keeping my fingers crossed for you :-)) VW is a real ****er - there
is nothing worse than watching a beautifully established tree turn up its
toes and croak in the matter of a few weeks. I have lost two trees to this
problem - a redbud and a gorgeous J. maple grown on from a seedling and I
have a garden full of other vulnerable species. I now use the tea
religiously.

pam - gardengal

Pam,

Thankx for your reply. You seems to work for this forum. Google should
reward you for it. Many thankx.

Andrew




I hate answering like this but here it is - it depends. V.W. can
demonstrate different patterns of spread. Typically, a single branch or
branches will first exhibit the symptoms you described, eventually
followed by the rest of the tree. It can be a slow progression (over the
course of weeks or months) or it can happen very rapidly - almost
overnight. If your tree is budding out, that is a very good sign! Watch to
make sure the budding is uniform over the canopy of the tree. If you see
signs that a branch is not budding, prune it off and examine it in detail
- is there streaking under the bark surface or a dark center in the
branch? These are the typical VW indicators.

As to getting rid of it........not really possible. It is a fungus that is
present pretty much in any soil. It is opportunistic in that it invades
when trees are vulnerable from various stresses or when wounded (usually
root disturbance, less often just from pruning). Sterilize pruners after
using them on plants where you suspect this problem. In fact, it's a good
idea to sterilize them regularly anyway and always after using them on a
diseased plant.

If the tree succumbs to VW, cut it down, but don't dig out the root system
if you suspect there may be co-mingling of roots with your other maples.
If they are far enough away that this is not a problem, its okay to remove
the stump and roots. Avoid cultivating in the root zone of the other
maples and make sure all your gardening tools are well cleaned.

Aerated compost tea is about the best antidote to this problem. If you
catch it early enough and apply the tea biweekly as a soil drench in the
drip zone through the growing season, you can often destroy the fungus.

More than just maples are affected by this problem. Research should
indicate which other plants you have which might be vulnerable and which
plants are resistant that you could plant in place of your maple, should
you lose it to this problem.

I am keeping my fingers crossed for you :-)) VW is a real ****er - there
is nothing worse than watching a beautifully established tree turn up its
toes and croak in the matter of a few weeks. I have lost two trees to this
problem - a redbud and a gorgeous J. maple grown on from a seedling and I
have a garden full of other vulnerable species. I now use the tea
religiously.

pam - gardengal

Pam,

A new question regarding the maple and the sun. I have an unfortunate
luck of having my garden facing the sunset every day. Can you tell me
which caltivar of Japanese Maple will be better at facing afternoon
sun ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

A new question regarding the maple and the sun. I have an unfortunate
luck of having my garden facing the sunset every day. Can you tell me
which caltivar of Japanese Maple will be better at facing afternoon
sun ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

There are lots of J. maples that tend to be more tolerant of a late sun
location, certainly the straight species (Acer palmatum) and its
redleafed cousin, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'. Most of the disectums
(laceleaf cultivars) can adapt to this location although you may
experience some scorching in their first couple of years. They outgrow it
quickly as they become acclimatized. The following link will provide a
good listing of others:
http://www.lakesnursery.com/page19.html

The ones you definitely want to avoid are those with variegation or very
golden foliage. Just make sure to keep the trees well watered through the
summer heat.

pam - gardengal

Pam,

I have been told by a nusery man specialised in Japanese maple
that most Japanese Maple need some shade or another. This cause me
great concern as I have spent a great effort in improving my soil for
the last few weeks and went on a spending spree on japanese maple. I
have planted Bloodgood and Osakazuki plus many others to come and I
have been using the list of sun tolerant maples you have shown me as
guide for any purchase.

Few points he made

1.All japanese maple need some shade in Australian condition.
2.Laceleaf culstivars are less sun tolerant then the others.
3.You need to have a shade tree before any japanese maple can be
planted.


I am confused even more when another nursery man told me that shade is
optional. Both claim to have 20 years experience in cultivating
japanese maples.

Fact and observation

1. I think point 2 is wrong as I have seen many laceleaf under full
sun condition without any problem.
2. Temperature range I am in. Winter never goes below 0 C (32F),
summer is always between 30-40C (86F-104F), 1 or 2 days of 45C (113F).
3. My garden is South - East facing.

My question is

Would my sun tolerant maples more likely to be in trouble next summer
?

If i have to plant a few tree that can be used as a shade ? Which
would be the best one to go for ? (One that grow fast so I can
continue my Maple dream, not too big as I don't have a big garden and
also would have minimal impact to japanese maple that will be planted
close to it in the future).

We are in the middle of autumn right now, was told by the nursery that
I have missed by a few days for seeing great colors of japanese maple.
The strange thing is that all my japanese maples are still green ?!
(Autroperpeum, Sango Kaku, Osakazuki). What's a good explaination for
that ? (Too much water ? as suggested by J.D Vertrees's book)


Thankx again. I feel like a worrying parent.











(Andrew Tan) wrote in message . com...
Pam,

Great link and thankx heeps for the tips.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

A new question regarding the maple and the sun. I have an unfortunate
luck of having my garden facing the sunset every day. Can you tell me
which caltivar of Japanese Maple will be better at facing afternoon
sun ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

There are lots of J. maples that tend to be more tolerant of a late sun
location, certainly the straight species (Acer palmatum) and its
redleafed cousin, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'. Most of the disectums
(laceleaf cultivars) can adapt to this location although you may
experience some scorching in their first couple of years. They outgrow it
quickly as they become acclimatized. The following link will provide a
good listing of others:
http://www.lakesnursery.com/page19.html

The ones you definitely want to avoid are those with variegation or very
golden foliage. Just make sure to keep the trees well watered through the
summer heat.

pam - gardengal

Andrew, first let me condition this by saying I have never grown a maple in Australia :-)) so my information may not be
entirely appropriate for your situation. But this is my experience in my climate:
- many Japanese maples are VERY sun tolerant, as that list suggests, and require no additional shade.
- many laceleaf varieties here are grown in full sun - west or southern exposure - and they thrive. Young trees may
sometimes experience summer scorching in this situation, but they will become acclimated and outgrow that condition,
provided other growing conditions (watering) are met.
- unless you have a rather sun-sensitive cultivar, a pre-existing shade tree is not necessary.

Having said that, your summer temps are significantly higher than mine and that could pose problems. It is probably wise
to consider the advice given you by your local nurserymen. I could list a number of trees that could provide some fast
shade, but again, I don't know their appropriateness for your situation. It is best to get this advice from a local
source that knows what will do best and grow quickly and is suitable for your climate. In the interim, you could always
construct some temporary shelter to shield new, tender trees from the harshest aspects of the summer sun. As to the lack
of change in fall color for your trees, that could very well be due to the fact that they are newly planted, obviously
well tended and watered and have not yet established themselves to your location and climate. I'd be willing to bet that
they only need some time to get situated before they start performing as described. Given the care you are clearly
lavishing on them, they should look stunning next fall.

Sorry about this advice being rather vague, but there is a significant difference in our climates and I can only relate
my experience with Japanese maples with respect to my considerably more temperate climate.

BTW, I just got two new maples - Villa Taranto and Ghost Dancer, which definitely requires considerable shade. They are
very much babies - gallon sized containers - and will probably remain as container plants. That makes 10 Japanese maples
in my garden, all but two grown as container plants.


pam - gardengal



Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

I have been told by a nusery man specialised in Japanese maple
that most Japanese Maple need some shade or another. This cause me
great concern as I have spent a great effort in improving my soil for
the last few weeks and went on a spending spree on japanese maple. I
have planted Bloodgood and Osakazuki plus many others to come and I
have been using the list of sun tolerant maples you have shown me as
guide for any purchase.

Few points he made

1.All japanese maple need some shade in Australian condition.
2.Laceleaf culstivars are less sun tolerant then the others.
3.You need to have a shade tree before any japanese maple can be
planted.

I am confused even more when another nursery man told me that shade is
optional. Both claim to have 20 years experience in cultivating
japanese maples.

Fact and observation

1. I think point 2 is wrong as I have seen many laceleaf under full
sun condition without any problem.
2. Temperature range I am in. Winter never goes below 0 C (32F),
summer is always between 30-40C (86F-104F), 1 or 2 days of 45C (113F).
3. My garden is South - East facing.

My question is

Would my sun tolerant maples more likely to be in trouble next summer
?

If i have to plant a few tree that can be used as a shade ? Which
would be the best one to go for ? (One that grow fast so I can
continue my Maple dream, not too big as I don't have a big garden and
also would have minimal impact to japanese maple that will be planted
close to it in the future).

We are in the middle of autumn right now, was told by the nursery that
I have missed by a few days for seeing great colors of japanese maple.
The strange thing is that all my japanese maples are still green ?!
(Autroperpeum, Sango Kaku, Osakazuki). What's a good explaination for
that ? (Too much water ? as suggested by J.D Vertrees's book)

Thankx again. I feel like a worrying parent.

(Andrew Tan) wrote in message . com...
Pam,

Great link and thankx heeps for the tips.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

A new question regarding the maple and the sun. I have an unfortunate
luck of having my garden facing the sunset every day. Can you tell me
which caltivar of Japanese Maple will be better at facing afternoon
sun ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

There are lots of J. maples that tend to be more tolerant of a late sun
location, certainly the straight species (Acer palmatum) and its
redleafed cousin, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'. Most of the disectums
(laceleaf cultivars) can adapt to this location although you may
experience some scorching in their first couple of years. They outgrow it
quickly as they become acclimatized. The following link will provide a
good listing of others:
http://www.lakesnursery.com/page19.html

The ones you definitely want to avoid are those with variegation or very
golden foliage. Just make sure to keep the trees well watered through the
summer heat.

pam - gardengal

Pam,

Thankx again for your feedback. I guess the best way for me is to try
it out with Sun tolerant maples and see how it goes. I guess I have to
be patient for my Japanese maple garden. It will have to take a few
years of trial and error to get it right. I went to a maple nursery
the other day and saw this 15 feet Sango Kaku, it is such a beautiful
tree (Especially during fall with yellow gold colour). My dream is to
have one of this establish in my garden one day.

Andrew



Pam wrote in message ...
Andrew, first let me condition this by saying I have never grown a maple in Australia :-)) so my information may not be
entirely appropriate for your situation. But this is my experience in my climate:
- many Japanese maples are VERY sun tolerant, as that list suggests, and require no additional shade.
- many laceleaf varieties here are grown in full sun - west or southern exposure - and they thrive. Young trees may
sometimes experience summer scorching in this situation, but they will become acclimated and outgrow that condition,
provided other growing conditions (watering) are met.
- unless you have a rather sun-sensitive cultivar, a pre-existing shade tree is not necessary.

Having said that, your summer temps are significantly higher than mine and that could pose problems. It is probably wise
to consider the advice given you by your local nurserymen. I could list a number of trees that could provide some fast
shade, but again, I don't know their appropriateness for your situation. It is best to get this advice from a local
source that knows what will do best and grow quickly and is suitable for your climate. In the interim, you could always
construct some temporary shelter to shield new, tender trees from the harshest aspects of the summer sun. As to the lack
of change in fall color for your trees, that could very well be due to the fact that they are newly planted, obviously
well tended and watered and have not yet established themselves to your location and climate. I'd be willing to bet that
they only need some time to get situated before they start performing as described. Given the care you are clearly
lavishing on them, they should look stunning next fall.

Sorry about this advice being rather vague, but there is a significant difference in our climates and I can only relate
my experience with Japanese maples with respect to my considerably more temperate climate.

BTW, I just got two new maples - Villa Taranto and Ghost Dancer, which definitely requires considerable shade. They are
very much babies - gallon sized containers - and will probably remain as container plants. That makes 10 Japanese maples
in my garden, all but two grown as container plants.


pam - gardengal



Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

I have been told by a nusery man specialised in Japanese maple
that most Japanese Maple need some shade or another. This cause me
great concern as I have spent a great effort in improving my soil for
the last few weeks and went on a spending spree on japanese maple. I
have planted Bloodgood and Osakazuki plus many others to come and I
have been using the list of sun tolerant maples you have shown me as
guide for any purchase.

Few points he made

1.All japanese maple need some shade in Australian condition.
2.Laceleaf culstivars are less sun tolerant then the others.
3.You need to have a shade tree before any japanese maple can be
planted.

I am confused even more when another nursery man told me that shade is
optional. Both claim to have 20 years experience in cultivating
japanese maples.

Fact and observation

1. I think point 2 is wrong as I have seen many laceleaf under full
sun condition without any problem.
2. Temperature range I am in. Winter never goes below 0 C (32F),
summer is always between 30-40C (86F-104F), 1 or 2 days of 45C (113F).
3. My garden is South - East facing.

My question is

Would my sun tolerant maples more likely to be in trouble next summer
?

If i have to plant a few tree that can be used as a shade ? Which
would be the best one to go for ? (One that grow fast so I can
continue my Maple dream, not too big as I don't have a big garden and
also would have minimal impact to japanese maple that will be planted
close to it in the future).

We are in the middle of autumn right now, was told by the nursery that
I have missed by a few days for seeing great colors of japanese maple.
The strange thing is that all my japanese maples are still green ?!
(Autroperpeum, Sango Kaku, Osakazuki). What's a good explaination for
that ? (Too much water ? as suggested by J.D Vertrees's book)

Thankx again. I feel like a worrying parent.

(Andrew Tan) wrote in message . com...
Pam,

Great link and thankx heeps for the tips.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

A new question regarding the maple and the sun. I have an unfortunate
luck of having my garden facing the sunset every day. Can you tell me
which caltivar of Japanese Maple will be better at facing afternoon
sun ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

There are lots of J. maples that tend to be more tolerant of a late sun
location, certainly the straight species (Acer palmatum) and its
redleafed cousin, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'. Most of the disectums
(laceleaf cultivars) can adapt to this location although you may
experience some scorching in their first couple of years. They outgrow it
quickly as they become acclimatized. The following link will provide a
good listing of others:
http://www.lakesnursery.com/page19.html

The ones you definitely want to avoid are those with variegation or very
golden foliage. Just make sure to keep the trees well watered through the
summer heat.

pam - gardengal

Andrew,

Sango Kaku is, IME, one of the most sun tolerant varieties - certainly mine is in as much of a full sun condition as can be in
my garden and it hasn't ever shown a sign a summer scorch. But once again, my summer temperatures don't even come close to
yours :-)) As long as the soil is well-draining and it gets frequent deep waterings, it should be fine.

If I ever manage to replace my lost camera, I'll post pictures of mine. It is a glorious tree, maybe 12 feet tall now, and
looks great in every season. The chartreuse- green of the new foliage against the red stems looks particularly stunning right
now as the morning sun hits it. Good luck with your maple garden.

pam



Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

Thankx again for your feedback. I guess the best way for me is to try
it out with Sun tolerant maples and see how it goes. I guess I have to
be patient for my Japanese maple garden. It will have to take a few
years of trial and error to get it right. I went to a maple nursery
the other day and saw this 15 feet Sango Kaku, it is such a beautiful
tree (Especially during fall with yellow gold colour). My dream is to
have one of this establish in my garden one day.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Andrew, first let me condition this by saying I have never grown a maple in Australia :-)) so my information may not be
entirely appropriate for your situation. But this is my experience in my climate:
- many Japanese maples are VERY sun tolerant, as that list suggests, and require no additional shade.
- many laceleaf varieties here are grown in full sun - west or southern exposure - and they thrive. Young trees may
sometimes experience summer scorching in this situation, but they will become acclimated and outgrow that condition,
provided other growing conditions (watering) are met.
- unless you have a rather sun-sensitive cultivar, a pre-existing shade tree is not necessary.

Having said that, your summer temps are significantly higher than mine and that could pose problems. It is probably wise
to consider the advice given you by your local nurserymen. I could list a number of trees that could provide some fast
shade, but again, I don't know their appropriateness for your situation. It is best to get this advice from a local
source that knows what will do best and grow quickly and is suitable for your climate. In the interim, you could always
construct some temporary shelter to shield new, tender trees from the harshest aspects of the summer sun. As to the lack
of change in fall color for your trees, that could very well be due to the fact that they are newly planted, obviously
well tended and watered and have not yet established themselves to your location and climate. I'd be willing to bet that
they only need some time to get situated before they start performing as described. Given the care you are clearly
lavishing on them, they should look stunning next fall.

Sorry about this advice being rather vague, but there is a significant difference in our climates and I can only relate
my experience with Japanese maples with respect to my considerably more temperate climate.

BTW, I just got two new maples - Villa Taranto and Ghost Dancer, which definitely requires considerable shade. They are
very much babies - gallon sized containers - and will probably remain as container plants. That makes 10 Japanese maples
in my garden, all but two grown as container plants.


pam - gardengal



Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

I have been told by a nusery man specialised in Japanese maple
that most Japanese Maple need some shade or another. This cause me
great concern as I have spent a great effort in improving my soil for
the last few weeks and went on a spending spree on japanese maple. I
have planted Bloodgood and Osakazuki plus many others to come and I
have been using the list of sun tolerant maples you have shown me as
guide for any purchase.

Few points he made

1.All japanese maple need some shade in Australian condition.
2.Laceleaf culstivars are less sun tolerant then the others.
3.You need to have a shade tree before any japanese maple can be
planted.

I am confused even more when another nursery man told me that shade is
optional. Both claim to have 20 years experience in cultivating
japanese maples.

Fact and observation

1. I think point 2 is wrong as I have seen many laceleaf under full
sun condition without any problem.
2. Temperature range I am in. Winter never goes below 0 C (32F),
summer is always between 30-40C (86F-104F), 1 or 2 days of 45C (113F).
3. My garden is South - East facing.

My question is

Would my sun tolerant maples more likely to be in trouble next summer
?

If i have to plant a few tree that can be used as a shade ? Which
would be the best one to go for ? (One that grow fast so I can
continue my Maple dream, not too big as I don't have a big garden and
also would have minimal impact to japanese maple that will be planted
close to it in the future).

We are in the middle of autumn right now, was told by the nursery that
I have missed by a few days for seeing great colors of japanese maple.
The strange thing is that all my japanese maples are still green ?!
(Autroperpeum, Sango Kaku, Osakazuki). What's a good explaination for
that ? (Too much water ? as suggested by J.D Vertrees's book)

Thankx again. I feel like a worrying parent.

(Andrew Tan) wrote in message . com...
Pam,

Great link and thankx heeps for the tips.

Andrew

Pam wrote in message ...
Andrew Tan wrote:

Pam,

A new question regarding the maple and the sun. I have an unfortunate
luck of having my garden facing the sunset every day. Can you tell me
which caltivar of Japanese Maple will be better at facing afternoon
sun ? Thankx heeps.

Andrew

There are lots of J. maples that tend to be more tolerant of a late sun
location, certainly the straight species (Acer palmatum) and its
redleafed cousin, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'. Most of the disectums
(laceleaf cultivars) can adapt to this location although you may
experience some scorching in their first couple of years. They outgrow it
quickly as they become acclimatized. The following link will provide a
good listing of others:
http://www.lakesnursery.com/page19.html

The ones you definitely want to avoid are those with variegation or very
golden foliage. Just make sure to keep the trees well watered through the
summer heat.

pam - gardengal