I need to cut two major branches from an african sumac in order to
build a wall around my property. I know that putting "tree tar" on the
wounds afterwards is a bad idea, but what about cauterization with a
blowtorch? I am interested in preventing infection to the tree as well
as discouraging new growth from beginning at the cut points. Thanks in
advance for your opinions.

No and No,
Make the final cut at but not into the branch collar.
Use a pruning technique that removes most all of the branch before you
make the final cut so as not to tear the bark off the tree.

On 22 May 2005 08:46:37 -0700, wrote:

I need to cut two major branches from an african sumac in order to
build a wall around my property. I know that putting "tree tar" on the
wounds afterwards is a bad idea, but what about cauterization with a
blowtorch? I am interested in preventing infection to the tree as well
as discouraging new growth from beginning at the cut points. Thanks in
advance for your opinions.

Blowtorch? Blowtorch? Trees and blowtorches do not mix.

Learn how to make the cut properly for minimal damage to the tree and
then let nature take its course. The tree will be fine as long as it
is not attacked by a blowtorch or any other incendiary device.

John

[Solid]

replying to John Bachman, Solid wrote:
Good question. The point is obviously not to start a fire; but similar to a
flesh wound, cauterization can theoretically 'seal' the exposed tree from
infection/infestation. Is it a little dangerous? Of course. But if done
correctly And safety; will it prevent a tree from dying when otherwise it
would have? Unfortunately there is no good data that I am aware of that has
explored this. If you do decide to do this; (obviously be careful) please
report your results.

--
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[Southfloridafarmer]

replying to Solid, Southfloridafarmer wrote:
'Solid' is on the right track! I am an avid gardener and I will say that IF
DONE CORRECTLY cauterization is the way to go. The correct way to do it? You
still use the blowtorch BUT NOT THE WAY YOU THINK: For cuts less than 2" in
diameter, get either a thick metal knife, spoon, or any piece of metal that's
like 2"X 2" (something you don't mind getting ugly) and hold it with some long
plyers under till it gets real hot and hold it directly into the cut end.
Practice on a scrap cutting or two before you do the trees wound.

If you have a bigger diameter tree to cut then get a cast iron pan and set up
a grill near the tree and get it real hot. Use two sets of oven mitts to pick
it up and use it.

--
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[Fat Baby]

replying to kris7, Fat Baby wrote:
I have used a torch (blue bottle bernzomatic, commonly used by plumbers for
soldering pipe) to cauterize my tree pruning cuts for years with excellent
results. I've used it on Live Oak, Red Oak, and Shumard Oak too name a few.
It's recommended to do any pruning in the winter while the plant is dormant.
Just remember, trees don't heel, they seal.

--
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[David E. Ross[_2_]]

On 6/15/2019 1:14 PM, Fat Baby wrote:
replying to kris7, Fat Baby wrote:
I have used a torch (blue bottle bernzomatic, commonly used by plumbers for
soldering pipe) to cauterize my tree pruning cuts for years with excellent
results. I've used it on Live Oak, Red Oak, and Shumard Oak too name a few.
It's recommended to do any pruning in the winter while the plant is dormant.
Just remember, trees don't heel, they seal.


I use white glue, any of Elmer's, Glue Bird, Wilhold, etc. I use this
on any cut on a rose bush when cutting a stem larger than a soda straw,
not only when pruning but also when grooming away dead flowers. I also
use white glue on larger thinning cuts and on minor heading cuts on my
peach tree.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary