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Old 09-07-2016, 12:32 PM posted to rec.gardens
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I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:14 PM posted to rec.gardens
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herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.


weighted and angled scraper, pull behind
lawn tractor once in a while to keep the
potholes filled and any weeds uprooted to
dry in the sun.


songbird
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Old 09-07-2016, 04:25 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On 7/9/2016 3:32 AM, herb white wrote:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some
weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will
not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.


Temporarily move the gravel aside. While doing that, scrape away the
existing weeds.

Get landscape cloth. Lay down a double layer of landscape cloth the
width and length of the driveway.

Restore the gravel over the landscape cloth. Add more gravel to create
a depth of 3 inches.

New weeds might sprout, but their roots will not penetrate the landscape
cloth or enter the soil beneath. You can either ignore those weeds as
they will soon die, or you can easily pull them. In the meantime, rain
and other water will go through the landscape cloth.

This works best if your driveway has some kind of edging to keep the
gravel in place and prevent weeds from sending runners under the
landscape cloth.

--
David E. Ross
http://www.rossde.com/.

Is it true that Donald Trump refuses to reveal his
income tax returns because he uses so many questionable
loopholes that he pays no taxes? See
http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/06/15/new-evidence-donald-trump-didn-t-pay-taxes.html.
Even if those
loopholes are legal, Trump might be too embarrassed to
admit he pays no taxes.
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:02 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:25:41 -0700, "David E. Ross"
wrote:

On 7/9/2016 3:32 AM, herb white wrote:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has some
weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds that will
not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.


Temporarily move the gravel aside. While doing that, scrape away the
existing weeds.

Get landscape cloth. Lay down a double layer of landscape cloth the
width and length of the driveway.

Restore the gravel over the landscape cloth. Add more gravel to create
a depth of 3 inches.

New weeds might sprout, but their roots will not penetrate the landscape
cloth or enter the soil beneath. You can either ignore those weeds as
they will soon die, or you can easily pull them. In the meantime, rain
and other water will go through the landscape cloth.

This works best if your driveway has some kind of edging to keep the
gravel in place and prevent weeds from sending runners under the
landscape cloth.


You obviously haven't a clue about how much LABOR and COST that would
entail for a 500' driveway. I have such a 500' crushed stone
driveway, once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day... takes me about 4 hours, and costs a
gallon of Round Up concentrate. I use a 2 gallon pump sprayer (not
too heavy to carry), I mix Round Up to half strength, 3 oz per gal.
Choose a wind free day, and don't be tempted to spray heavily, a light
application works well... can always go back in two weeks to spot
spray.
Someone would have to be psychotic thinking they can move that much
gravel and then put it back, talking moving over five ten ton dump
truck loads, TWICE! That much commercial grade landscape cloth (5,000
sq ft) would cost well over $3,000, and take two people minimally ten
hours to lay down.
Landscape cloth is used to prevent soil erosion on slopes, not to
prevent plant growth, in fact it's made porous to encourage plant
growth, it's supposed to last long enough for plantings to mature
enough so their roots can prevent erosion. Landscape cloth for a
fairly level gravel roadway is a waste. Only a nut case would destroy
a perfectly good gravel roadway just to eradicate weeds. It cost me
$7,000 to to have a 500' crushed stone driveway installed... very
expensive heavy roadway equipment was used, including a huge
compacting vibrating roller. Lots of people here have gravel and
crushed stone driveways, none would think to destroy their roadways
over weeds... weeds will be back next spring no matter what one does.
I bless Round Up... I use it around all my out buildings that would
otherwise be difficult to mow. Gravel driveways are supposed to have
some weeds, too many weeds simply means it's not driven often enough.
If worried about weeds install a blacktop driveway instead. I paid a
lot of money for this driveway, no way would I destroy it over a few
weeds that a gallon of Round Up can take care of, not that I could
remove all those stones and put them back myself anyway:
http://i63.tinypic.com/2saezy1.jpg
Were I to call any company to remove those stones and put them back
over weeds the men in the white coats would arrive.

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Old 09-07-2016, 11:21 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...


A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.

The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.
On those days you can pretty much halve the usual dose of roundup.





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Old 09-07-2016, 11:38 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:21:01 +1000, Jeßus wrote:

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...


A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.

The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.


MORON!
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:48 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:38:22 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jul 2016 07:21:01 +1000, Jeßus wrote:

On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 17:02:01 -0400, Brooklyn1
wrote:

once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...


A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.

The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.


MORON!


Yes. A 'moron' with 5 years commercial experience using roundup
(unfortunately). Have another drink Sheldon.
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Old 10-07-2016, 12:08 AM posted to rec.gardens
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once a year I hand spray with a weak solution of Round Up...
I choose a hot sunny dry day...



A hot, sunny and dry day is just about the worst kind of weather for
applying roundup (aside from rain). Plants conserve water on hot dry
days by closing their pores, meaning they don't get much of a dose.
The ideal weather is an overcast day with a slight amount of drizzle.




http://www.aganytime.com/Documents/A...r bicides.pdf



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Old 11-07-2016, 03:00 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On 7/9/2016 5:32 AM, herb white wrote:
I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has
some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds
that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.


My first choice would be a propane flamethrower, if you're willing to
walk and burn the weeds. Second choice would be a tank sprayer filled
with boiling water. That could be a logistic problem, depending on how
many weeds there are and thus how much boiling water you'd need.
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:41 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Moe DeLoughan wrote:
herb white wrote:

I have a gravel drive about 10 ft wide and 500 ft long that has
some weeds coming up. What is best to use to control those weeds
that will not pollute the river? Thanks for any info.


My first choice would be a propane flamethrower, if you're willing to
walk and burn the weeds. Second choice would be a tank sprayer filled
with boiling water. That could be a logistic problem, depending on how
many weeds there are and thus how much boiling water you'd need.


I've tried both those methods, they work immediately but very
temperary, neither will kill the roots so the weeds will grow back
within a few days, often with a vengence as destroying the foliage
will cause the plant to send out side shoots and runners in its quest
to live and multiply. The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength. When used according to the product's
directions it will not harm the environment. I can't imagine an easy
method for applying boiling water over so great a distance... you'd
need a portable propane stove on a cart. I tried boiling water on
weeds growing through cracks in a concrete walkway but a few days
later the weeds were back only 2-3 times bushier... with many weeds
all it takes is a small bit of root remaining and they will grow right
back. Even with Round-Up the next spring new seeds carried by wind
and critters will germinate so be prepared to apply it every year. A
hint when using Round-Up in a portable sprayer add the water first or
it will foam up from the slighest water stream and will take an hour
for the foam to subside.


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Old 12-07-2016, 01:27 AM posted to rec.gardens
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength.


I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger:
http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger

It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is
working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all
around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one
more round to do. There are almost none left.

Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm
monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've
only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn

Don. www.floorborders.com (e-mail link at page bottom).
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Old 12-07-2016, 01:56 AM posted to rec.gardens
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:27:12 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength.


I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger:
http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger

It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is
working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all
around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one
more round to do. There are almost none left.

Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm
monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've
only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn

Don. www.floorborders.com (e-mail link at page bottom).


I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a
beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep
and aerate the soil. Song birds love thistle seed. Next time
thistles in my wildflower meadow flower I will remember to take
pictures. Some thistles grow right along the base of my barn, I just
leave them, I just try not to get too close or those velcro stickers
get all over my clothes.
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Old 12-07-2016, 05:54 AM posted to rec.gardens
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On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

I try not to harm thistle, the original velcro, I think it's a
beautiful plant with gorgeous flowers... also its roots grow very deep
and aerate the soil.


Are you sure what you have is Canada thistle? Like this?
https://www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/WS/...daThistle.html

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:22 AM posted to rec.gardens
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On 12/07/16 00:27, Don Wiss wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016, Brooklyn1 wrote:

The only method I found that works with success
on my long crushed stone driveway is to use a defolient that kills the
roots.... Round-Up works best... a weak solution is very effective
only it can take a week to ten days to see the weeds dying rather than
the 2-3 days with full strength.


I agree. The defoliant I have been using recently at my mom's is Stinger:
http://www.dowagro.com/en-us/usag/pr...icides/stinger

It does take a couple weeks for the Canadian thistle to die down. But it is
working. The problem is I am spot spraying and the thistle is mixed in all
around. I miss some. But then it grows and I find it. I may only have one
more round to do. There are almost none left.

Stinger is a broad leaf herbicide. Or in other words, it won't harm
monocots. I had to buy a quart. Enough for several acres of crops. I've
only used about an ounce. I am going to try spot spraying weeds in her lawn


And what do you do with the dead weeds?

--

Jeff
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:28 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On Tue, 12 Jul 2016, Jeff Layman wrote:

And what do you do with the dead weeds?


Once a week my mom's town picks up the yard debris to send to composting.
Stinger is used on food crops up to 45 days before harvest. I would think
by the time the compost is made the herbicide will be gone.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).
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