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powdery mildew on grapes



 
 
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  #1  
Old 25-06-2005, 04:39 PM
DigitalVinyl
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Default powdery mildew on grapes

We've had some very hot humid weather in the northeast, and I've
developed some powdery mildew on a small section of the vine.

I can see the whitish hairy grpwth on a section of leaves. I'm
wondering if it too late to control it.

What has been most effective for home gardeners treating an existing
infection?? I see wettable sulphur mentioned being applied to acres,
but often the home gardeners has choices commercial growers can't use
(like picking bugs off rather than blanketing the area in pesticides)

Does cleaning the leaves off help control the infection?
I would imagine that the physical mildew impedes photosynthesis some,
which would reduce the health and vigor of that leaf/vine--helping the
mildew to survive.

Do you remove the diseased leaves? I'm guessing it is something that
can spread so less of it is a control.

I see some on grape clusters too. I'm planning to remove those--I have
plenty of other clusters.

I am concerned that some of the berries are almost 1/4" round, but
most are still smaller. There are warnings about using the wettable
sulphur, especially with table grapes--which these are.


DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalf...=/2055&.src=ph
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  #2  
Old 25-06-2005, 09:00 PM
Paul E. Lehmann
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Default

DigitalVinyl wrote:

We've had some very hot humid weather in the northeast, and I've
developed some powdery mildew on a small section of the vine.

I can see the whitish hairy grpwth on a section of leaves. I'm
wondering if it too late to control it.

What has been most effective for home gardeners treating an existing
infection?? I see wettable sulphur mentioned being applied to acres,
but often the home gardeners has choices commercial growers can't use
(like picking bugs off rather than blanketing the area in pesticides)

Does cleaning the leaves off help control the infection?
I would imagine that the physical mildew impedes photosynthesis some,
which would reduce the health and vigor of that leaf/vine--helping the
mildew to survive.

Do you remove the diseased leaves? I'm guessing it is something that
can spread so less of it is a control.

I see some on grape clusters too. I'm planning to remove those--I have
plenty of other clusters.

I am concerned that some of the berries are almost 1/4" round, but
most are still smaller. There are warnings about using the wettable
sulphur, especially with table grapes--which these are.


DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalf...=/2055&.src=ph


Here is an interesting link about using MILK to control Powdery Mildew.
http://www.pioneerthinking.com/tv-mildew.html

Let me know if you try it and how it works for you.
  #3  
Old 30-06-2005, 08:57 AM
Mike
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Default


"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
...
What has been most effective for home gardeners treating an existing
infection.


I had some white powder on my parlor palm until recently when I added a
nickel-size portion of dish detergent to the gallon-plus watering can and
basically showered it. Rubbing the leaves free of dust etc.to allow
photosynthesis. Appears to work; be sure to rinse with clear water.

Disclaimer: also did it one time with some ground cover - looked great but
then disappeared. Could've been from chemicals, shifting sun, or lack of
water. Dunno.


Mercenary gardener, z11


  #4  
Old 30-06-2005, 02:46 PM
[email protected]
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Default

Whitish hairy growth sounds more like gray mold to me.
I'd be removing affected leaves if possible.
You do not cure fungal disease you prevent it.
This time of year I'd be expecting a lot of black rot as well.

  #5  
Old 03-07-2005, 12:46 AM
DigitalVinyl
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Default

A little update.

When I spotted PM it was after two scorching weeks of heat and a dry
month. I was surprised that this weather INHIBITS pwdery mildew, makes
sense it is a MILDEW! And yet it was after that that I noticed it
growing.

Well the last week was humid warm and daily downpours late in the day.
The humidity should benefit the PM. Over 85 degrees inhibits it.

Last weekend I treated the grapes with a weak solution(2 gallons
water) of baking soda(1 1/2 tsp) and milk(skim, 1 cup). There are
other plants that would get drenched by this solution so I didn't want
to do anything extreme. You also can't just keep using the baking soda
cause it will affect the soil. I also hand cleaned the worst leaves.

Today I inspected them, then treated them again. This time 2 gallons
water, 1 1/2 cup skim milk, 2 tsp baking soda

I have to say the amount is noticeably less, but still there. I still
see it obviously on some grape clusters. I can't clean them only trash
them. I left them to measure progress on them. This week I made sure
to go under the leaf canopy and wet individual clusters with the
solution.

There's no way to know if this treatment really kills it or the hot
summer does.




DigitalVinyl wrote:

We've had some very hot humid weather in the northeast, and I've
developed some powdery mildew on a small section of the vine.

I can see the whitish hairy grpwth on a section of leaves. I'm
wondering if it too late to control it.

What has been most effective for home gardeners treating an existing
infection?? I see wettable sulphur mentioned being applied to acres,
but often the home gardeners has choices commercial growers can't use
(like picking bugs off rather than blanketing the area in pesticides)

Does cleaning the leaves off help control the infection?
I would imagine that the physical mildew impedes photosynthesis some,
which would reduce the health and vigor of that leaf/vine--helping the
mildew to survive.

Do you remove the diseased leaves? I'm guessing it is something that
can spread so less of it is a control.

I see some on grape clusters too. I'm planning to remove those--I have
plenty of other clusters.

I am concerned that some of the berries are almost 1/4" round, but
most are still smaller. There are warnings about using the wettable
sulphur, especially with table grapes--which these are.


DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalf...=/2055&.src=ph


DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
3rd year gardener
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/royalf...=/2055&.src=ph
  #6  
Old 03-07-2005, 01:42 AM
Tom Jaszewski
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There IS good data on milk as a control.

1 part milk and 9 parts water. Whey proved to be more effective. I
spray with a mist blower and get adequate control on ornamentals.



  #7  
Old 03-07-2005, 05:39 AM
Paul E. Lehmann
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Default

Tom Jaszewski wrote:

There IS good data on milk as a control.

1 part milk and 9 parts water. Whey proved to be more effective. I
spray with a mist blower and get adequate control on ornamentals.


Do you have any idea if milk has any effect on other fungus such as black
rot or downy mildew. I have read that it is only good on Powdery mildew
but would like some feedback if others have had success with other fungus.
  #8  
Old 03-07-2005, 05:38 PM
Tom Jaszewski
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Default

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 23:39:44 -0400, "Paul E. Lehmann"
wrote:

Tom Jaszewski wrote:

There IS good data on milk as a control.

1 part milk and 9 parts water. Whey proved to be more effective. I
spray with a mist blower and get adequate control on ornamentals.



Do you have any idea if milk has any effect on other fungus such as black
rot or downy mildew. I have read that it is only good on Powdery mildew
but would like some feedback if others have had success with other fungus.




http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/biopes...eet_006327.htm
http://fpath.cas.psu.edu/RESEARCH/SAREPoster.pdf
http://www.newfarm.org/depts/NFfield...0404/tea.shtml
 




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