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Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks



 
 
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  #1  
Old 29-07-2010, 02:49 AM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks

I've found that PL-Premium (polyurethane construction adhesive) to be a
very durable, strong and water-proof glue for wood for all applications
(indoor and outdoor).

I just filled a couple of holes on the trunk of a silver maple that have
been formed by some sort of insect over the past maybe 6-months. The
hole is in the face of a limb-cut that I made a few years ago and had
painted with black pruning paint. I was surprised how deep the "rot"
was - I was able to push the plastic dispensing nozzle of the glue
cartridge all the way into down into the trunk.

So even though I've already done it, I'm wondering if anyone knows how
well this stuff works at filling holes in tree trunks to prevent further
rot and allow the tree to grow over and eventually cover exposed
heartwood.
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  #2  
Old 29-07-2010, 04:37 AM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 122
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks


"Sum Guy" wrote in message ...
I've found that PL-Premium (polyurethane construction adhesive) to be a
very durable, strong and water-proof glue for wood for all applications
(indoor and outdoor).

I just filled a couple of holes on the trunk of a silver maple that have
been formed by some sort of insect over the past maybe 6-months. The
hole is in the face of a limb-cut that I made a few years ago and had
painted with black pruning paint. I was surprised how deep the "rot"
was - I was able to push the plastic dispensing nozzle of the glue
cartridge all the way into down into the trunk.

So even though I've already done it, I'm wondering if anyone knows how
well this stuff works at filling holes in tree trunks to prevent further
rot and allow the tree to grow over and eventually cover exposed
heartwood.


Using pruning paint is not a recommended procedure because it traps moisture
in the cavity and encourages rot, such as you found. It's better to leave
this type of wound alone and let the tree heal itself. (Palms are a
different matter . . . as monocots they don't heal . . .)


  #3  
Old 29-07-2010, 06:26 AM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

JimR wrote:

Using pruning paint is not a recommended procedure because it traps
moisture in the cavity and encourages rot, such as you found.


This was insect-induced rot.

Moisture could not be trapped - this is a vertical surface we're talking
about - roughly a circle about 3" diameter.

Wood protected by oil-based coatings tends to weather better than left
untreated.

It's funny how pruning paint is somehow not good for exposed wood, yet
you see people applying coatings to their decks and other exposed wood
all the time.

I've also found that pruning paint is good when applied to the top
surface of horizontal limbs near the trunk that squirrels tend to tear
apart - dammage that most people don't see because it's over their
heads. The squirrels don't find the bark so tasty with the paint.
  #4  
Old 29-07-2010, 07:20 AM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 6
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

On Jul 29, 12:26*am, Sum Guy wrote:

It's funny how pruning paint is somehow not good for exposed wood, yet
you see people applying coatings to their decks and other exposed wood
all the time.



Decks and other exposed wood which has been cut and milled
into lumber is no longer alive...

Wood on a tree is still alive and growing...

It is best to leave tree wounds alone and allow them to heal
naturally... Exceptions to this logic are rare...

~~ Evan
  #5  
Old 29-07-2010, 12:44 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 24
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

On Jul 28, 11:26*pm, Sum Guy wrote:
JimR wrote:
Using pruning paint is not a recommended procedure because it traps
moisture in the cavity and encourages rot, such as you found.


This was insect-induced rot.

Moisture could not be trapped - this is a vertical surface we're talking
about - roughly a circle about 3" diameter. *

Wood protected by oil-based coatings tends to weather better than left
untreated.

It's funny how pruning paint is somehow not good for exposed wood, yet
you see people applying coatings to their decks and other exposed wood
all the time.

I've also found that pruning paint is good when applied to the top
surface of horizontal limbs near the trunk that squirrels tend to tear
apart - dammage that most people don't see because it's over their
heads. *The squirrels don't find the bark so tasty with the paint.


what insect makes a hole 3"
  #6  
Old 29-07-2010, 12:49 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 184
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks

On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:26:22 -0400, Sum Guy wrote:

JimR wrote:

Using pruning paint is not a recommended procedure because it traps
moisture in the cavity and encourages rot, such as you found.


This was insect-induced rot.


What insect *induces* rot? All the wood eating critters I know
about show up after the wood is dead.


Moisture could not be trapped - this is a vertical surface we're talking
about - roughly a circle about 3" diameter.

Wood protected by oil-based coatings tends to weather better than left
untreated.

It's funny how pruning paint is somehow not good for exposed wood, yet
you see people applying coatings to their decks and other exposed wood
all the time.


Those decks and stuff are *dead* wood. Presumably you cut the branch
off on a live tree. The tree will bleed and heal the wound much
better without being insulted further by some foreign sealer.


I've also found that pruning paint is good when applied to the top
surface of horizontal limbs near the trunk that squirrels tend to tear
apart - dammage that most people don't see because it's over their
heads. The squirrels don't find the bark so tasty with the paint.


I prefer to apply lead directly to the squirrels. But I don't think
squirrels do any damage to hollows in trees

Jim
  #7  
Old 29-07-2010, 12:55 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 1
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks


"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Jul 29, 12:26 am, Sum Guy wrote:

It's funny how pruning paint is somehow not good for exposed wood, yet
you see people applying coatings to their decks and other exposed wood
all the time.



Decks and other exposed wood which has been cut and milled
into lumber is no longer alive...

Wood on a tree is still alive and growing...

It is best to leave tree wounds alone and allow them to heal
naturally... Exceptions to this logic are rare...

~~ Evan

====

Live Oaks maybe an exception. The pruners here are adamant about using paint
to prevent Live Oak wilt.

  #8  
Old 29-07-2010, 02:23 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 13
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

On Jul 29, 6:55*am, "JimT" wrote:
"Evan" wrote in message

...
On Jul 29, 12:26 am, Sum Guy wrote:

It's funny how pruning paint is somehow not good for exposed wood, yet
you see people applying coatings to their decks and other exposed wood
all the time.


Decks and other exposed wood which has been cut and milled
into lumber is no longer alive...

Wood on a tree is still alive and growing...

It is best to leave tree wounds alone and allow them to heal
naturally... *Exceptions to this logic are rare...

~~ Evan

====


Actually the wood inside the tree is dead. Only the outer layer of a
tree is alive. But generally it is best of you just let the tree bark
grow over the wood. The black tree paint inhibits that and does trap
moisture. It will eventually heal it's self but it will never repair
the rot inside. If a substaintual part of the truck has rot in a spot
it is now weakened. If that is the case and the tree has the
potential to land on your house then have it removed. Lots of times
if you look at trees that have broken off during bad storms you see
that it was at a spot like this. Used to be people would clean out
holes like this and fill them with concrete. Don't know how well that
works. It's possible your holes were made by wood bees. Were they
about a 1/2" round and so well done that they almost looked like a
drill had done them? Wood bees will go a long way into wood.
  #9  
Old 29-07-2010, 02:54 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

ransley wrote:

Moisture could not be trapped - this is a vertical surface we're
talking about - roughly a circle about 3" diameter.


what insect makes a hole 3"


The exposed inner heart-wood of the tree has a circular profile and is
3" in diameter, and it oriented vertically with respect to the ground.
This is where a secondary trunk had been, which was cut maybe 2 or 3
years ago.

This circular area was sprayed with pruning paint last year. The
surface was solid and intact at that time. The bark is growing nicely
around the perimiter of this area (this is a silver maple). I have two
such similar cuts on a sugar maple - the exposed area was even larger (4
or 5") and painted them soon after the cut was made. This was about 5
years ago. They are 75% covered over now by the growing bark, and they
remained solid (no rot, holes, fissures developing in them).

Getting back to the silver maple, at some point this year I noticed the
appearance of some cracks or voids on the cut surface along with what
looked like sawdust shavings around the crack. Yesterday I shoved the
plastic dispensing nozzle of a tube of PL Premium deep into the main
crack (it went in all the way - I wasn't expecting that) and I pumped
the crack full of glue.
  #10  
Old 29-07-2010, 03:00 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

Jim Elbrecht wrote:

This was insect-induced rot.


What insect *induces* rot?


By rot, I mean the development of cracks, fissures, cavities and holes
caused by the removal of wood caused by insect activity. I guess I used
the wrong term.

All the wood eating critters I know about show up after the
wood is dead.


When you cut a large limb off a tree, the inner wood that you expose
*is* dead. The only living part of the trunk is the bark.

Those decks and stuff are *dead* wood. Presumably you cut the
branch off on a live tree. The tree will bleed and heal the
wound much better without being insulted further by some
foreign sealer.


If the cut is large enough, it will expose dead wood, and that wood is
vulnerable to insect dammage and weather-related dammage (actual rot,
fungus, etc). This dammage may set in before the tree has enough time
to grow around and cover the exposed surface with new bark.
  #11  
Old 29-07-2010, 03:01 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 1
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in tree trunks


"Sum Guy" wrote in message ...
I've found that PL-Premium (polyurethane construction adhesive) to be a
very durable, strong and water-proof glue for wood for all applications
(indoor and outdoor).

I just filled a couple of holes on the trunk of a silver maple that have
been formed by some sort of insect over the past maybe 6-months. The
hole is in the face of a limb-cut that I made a few years ago and had
painted with black pruning paint. I was surprised how deep the "rot"
was - I was able to push the plastic dispensing nozzle of the glue
cartridge all the way into down into the trunk.

So even though I've already done it, I'm wondering if anyone knows how
well this stuff works at filling holes in tree trunks to prevent further
rot and allow the tree to grow over and eventually cover exposed
heartwood.


Silver maple is a garbage tree. The wood is soft because they grow so
fast. Surely you've noticed how they break during wind, and how fast those
things grow. Why you would want to save the thing is beyond comprehension.







  #12  
Old 29-07-2010, 03:17 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

jamesgangnc wrote:

But generally it is best of you just let the tree bark grow over
the wood. The black tree paint inhibits that and does trap
moisture.


Pruning paint does not inhibit bark growth over the exposed cut surface,
and it does not trap moisture because the exposed heartwood quickly
dries out once exposed to the air after it's cut, and any moisture
deeper in the wood under the painted area will find other ways to move
within the tree.

It will eventually heal it's self but it will never repair the
rot inside.


I know that, but I'm thinking that the glue will (a) kill whatever
organisms/insects are in there causing the dammage, (b) fill the voids
to prevent re-introduction of similar pests, (c) perform mechanical
bonding and return strength to the dammaged area (in a way that other
simple fillers wouldn't).

It's possible your holes were made by wood bees. Were they
about a 1/2" round and so well done that they almost looked
like a drill had done them? Wood bees will go a long way
into wood.


We call them carpenter bees, and they have drilled those perfectly round
holes in the side of my eaves under the gutters in previous years before
I replaced the wood and covered them with aluminum siding. I have lots
of other lumber that sits in my back yard (remnants from other projects)
but I've never seen these bees go after that wood, nor the exposed eves
of my shed.

In the case of the fissures on the exposed cut surface of the silver
maple, these are not the perfectly round holes made by carpenter bees.
  #13  
Old 29-07-2010, 03:24 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 13
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

On Jul 29, 8:54*am, Sum Guy wrote:
ransley wrote:
Moisture could not be trapped - this is a vertical surface we're
talking about - roughly a circle about 3" diameter.


what insect makes a hole 3"


The exposed inner heart-wood of the tree has a circular profile and is
3" in diameter, and it oriented vertically with respect to the ground.
This is where a secondary trunk had been, which was cut maybe 2 or 3
years ago.

This circular area was sprayed with pruning paint last year. *The
surface was solid and intact at that time. *The bark is growing nicely
around the perimiter of this area (this is a silver maple). *I have two
such similar cuts on a sugar maple - the exposed area was even larger (4
or 5") and painted them soon after the cut was made. *This was about 5
years ago. *They are 75% covered over now by the growing bark, and they
remained solid (no rot, holes, fissures developing in them).

Getting back to the silver maple, at some point this year I noticed the
appearance of some cracks or voids on the cut surface along with what
looked like sawdust shavings around the crack. *Yesterday I shoved the
plastic dispensing nozzle of a tube of PL Premium deep into the main
crack (it went in all the way - I wasn't expecting that) and I pumped
the crack full of glue.


Seems like that would be ok. It's going to be a weak spot even after
the tree grows over it. But there's nothing you can do about that.
  #14  
Old 29-07-2010, 03:25 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

JimT wrote:

Decks and other exposed wood which has been cut and milled
into lumber is no longer alive...

Wood on a tree is still alive and growing...


As has already been mentioned, the wood inside a tree under the bark is
actually dead wood. The only difference between it and the lumber you
buy at Lowes is that the wood in the tree hasn't been milled.

It is best to leave tree wounds alone and allow them to heal
naturally... Exceptions to this logic are rare...


If the exposed surface is large enough, the wood can rot and/or be
attacked by insects before the tree has a chance to grow bark to cover
it.

I think that different climates can be more problematic than others. In
the north-east and great-lakes area, you have a shorter growing season
(takes more time to cover exposed cuts with bark) and lots of humidity
and freeze-thaw action in the winter, both of which is hard on untreated
exposed wood.
  #15  
Old 29-07-2010, 03:34 PM posted to misc.consumers.house,alt.home.lawn.garden,alt.home.repair
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Posts: 9
Default Using PL-Premium (construction adhesive) to fill holes in treetrunks

"Marty B." wrote:

Silver maple is a garbage tree. Why you would want to save the
thing is beyond comprehension.


I have lots of trees in my large back yard, and this tree is near my
back fence, it's about 30 feet tall, and provides privacy between me and
the apartment building across the street behind me.

If I could go to a big-box building store or nursery and bring home a 20
or 30 foot mature tree of my choice and plant it exactly where I wanted
it, like I can do with a flag pole or a mail box, then sure we'd all be
doing that.

But trees don't grow on trees (so to speak). We can put up skyscrapers
in only a year or two, but it takes decades for a tree to grow to the
size that you want them to be. Until we can easily replace mature trees
with other mature trees in a few hours or days, I don't think I'm going
to be cutting mine down because it's not exactly the tree I might want
in a given location.

If you ask me, we need more trees and fewer people on this god-damn
planet.
 




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