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Old 09-05-2011, 04:43 PM posted to triangle.gardens
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Mine seems to be getting a very slow start. Is it because it has been
a cool spring? I haven't changed anything this year but the squash,
cucumbers, and peppers don't seem to want to grow? Am I alone?
MJ
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:06 AM posted to triangle.gardens
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On 05/09/2011 10:43 AM, mj wrote:
Mine seems to be getting a very slow start.


We started tomatoes and eggplants from seed, grew them indoors under
artificial light, and transplanted them into the garden. Most of the
tomatoes are flourishing but the eggplants are struggling.

Sugar snap peas were started from seed weeks ago. Three feet high,
healthy, lots of blossoms, expect the first harvest any day now.

Sweet pepper seedlings were bought from Logan's in Raleigh, transplanted
a few days ago. All look happy in their new home.

Planted cucumber seeds today.

As usual, the weeds are growing more vigorously than any edible crop.

Daniel B. Martin

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Old 10-05-2011, 12:09 PM posted to triangle.gardens
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On May 9, 9:06*pm, "Daniel B. Martin"
wrote:
On 05/09/2011 10:43 AM, mj wrote:

Mine seems to be getting a very slow start.


We started tomatoes and eggplants from seed, grew them indoors under
artificial light, and transplanted them into the garden. * Most of the
tomatoes are flourishing but the eggplants are struggling.

Sugar snap peas were started from seed weeks ago. * Three feet high,
healthy, lots of blossoms, expect the first harvest any day now.

Sweet pepper seedlings were bought from Logan's in Raleigh, transplanted
a few days ago. * All look happy in their new home.

Planted cucumber seeds today.

As usual, the weeds are growing more vigorously than any edible crop.

Daniel B. Martin


Weeds, ugh! I tried Preen. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:54 PM posted to triangle.gardens
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Default How are your Gardens?

The last frost date here is April 15. It is iffy to plant before then
because aside from the frost risk, the soil is also kind of cool.

I don't think we had a freeze in April but it got pretty chilly a few
nights.

Last year absolutely stank for tomatoes and eggplants in my garden, and
apparently many others had a bad year too. But I've got plenty of
seedlings, including replacement plants in case any of my babies have a
problem. Now my gardens have really taken off this spring, and something
tells me this year is going to be spectacular!

Sue

Weeds, ugh! I tried Preen. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.


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Old 12-05-2011, 01:59 AM posted to triangle.gardens
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Default How are your Gardens?

On Mon, 9 May 2011 07:43:55 -0700 (PDT) in mj wrote:
Mine seems to be getting a very slow start. Is it because it has been
a cool spring? I haven't changed anything this year but the squash,
cucumbers, and peppers don't seem to want to grow? Am I alone?


Well, I was sick with the crud when I intended to plant and just
got things other than cucumbers planted this past weekend.
Cucumbers from seedlings have been a bit slow, but the soil was
still cold (shredded leaf mulch insulates both ways).
Tomatoes and tomatillos were planted this past weekend and have
perked up already.
Peppers planted this weekend as well. One planted with basil a bit before,
and it isn't moving along as fast.
Zuchs and cantaloupes planted this weekend. And they are perking up.


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Old 12-05-2011, 02:22 AM posted to triangle.gardens
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On Tue, 10 May 2011 03:09:41 -0700 (PDT) in mj wrote:

Weeds, ugh! I tried P***n. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.


P***n is just 2,4-D, and I've only seen it sold as the amine in granular form
for outrageous prices. It's only a broadleaf herbicide (Won't kill
grasses). It's okay for broadleaf control in a lawn if you can
spread it when everything is still wet from a recent rain or a heavy
dew. However, some broadleaf weeds are resistant (clover), and others
have leaves that are too small for the granules to stick. Not worth using
unless you have broadleaf weeds in grasses you want to keep.
A few years back I bought a gallon of the most concentrated 2,4-D ester
I could find at tractor supply company and mix up a gallon's worth of it
diluted for application before I mow, and spot spray as I mow.

I also mix it with glyphosate when spraying any batch of weeds the includes
glyphosate resistant pigweed, or something tough like black berries
or poison ivy.

As for your tough grassy weed, are the leaves hollow to the tip, or
proper blades at the tip?
If it's hollow you have nutsedge and you're probably SOL. *IF* you're patient
find a glyphosate based brushkiller in the stores and use that to
calculate how much you need to dilute the 44% glyphosate. Now get a plastic
scouring pad or a scrubber sponge and a bit of hand dish washing detergent.
Add a bit of hand dish washing detergent to the diluted glyphosate solution
and scrub it into the sedge. Repeat every 10 days.
Works on wild garlic/onions as well.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:05 PM posted to triangle.gardens
mj mj is offline
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Default How are your Gardens?

On May 11, 8:22*pm, ? wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2011 03:09:41 -0700 (PDT) in mj *wrote:



Weeds, ugh! I tried P***n. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.


P***n is just 2,4-D, and I've only seen it sold as the amine in granular form
for outrageous prices. *It's only a broadleaf herbicide (Won't kill
grasses). *It's okay for broadleaf control in a lawn if you can
spread it when everything is still wet from a recent rain or a heavy
dew. *However, some broadleaf weeds are resistant (clover), and others
have leaves that are too small for the granules to stick. *Not worth using
unless you have broadleaf weeds in grasses you want to keep.
A few years back I bought a gallon of the most concentrated 2,4-D ester
I could find at tractor supply company and mix up a gallon's worth of it
diluted for application before I mow, and spot spray as I mow.

I also mix it with glyphosate when spraying any batch of weeds the includes
glyphosate resistant pigweed, or something tough like black berries
or poison ivy.

As for your tough grassy weed, are the leaves hollow to the tip, or
proper blades at the tip?
If it's hollow you have nutsedge and you're probably SOL. **IF* you're patient
find a glyphosate based brushkiller in the stores and use that to
calculate how much you need to dilute the 44% glyphosate. *Now get a plastic
scouring pad or a scrubber sponge and a bit of hand dish washing detergent.

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Old 12-05-2011, 11:18 PM posted to triangle.gardens
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Posts: 34
Default How are your Gardens?

On May 10, 6:09*am, mj wrote:
On May 9, 9:06*pm, "Daniel B. Martin"









wrote:
On 05/09/2011 10:43 AM, mj wrote:


Mine seems to be getting a very slow start.


We started tomatoes and eggplants from seed, grew them indoors under
artificial light, and transplanted them into the garden. * Most of the
tomatoes are flourishing but the eggplants are struggling.


Sugar snap peas were started from seed weeks ago. * Three feet high,
healthy, lots of blossoms, expect the first harvest any day now.


Sweet pepper seedlings were bought from Logan's in Raleigh, transplanted
a few days ago. * All look happy in their new home.


Planted cucumber seeds today.


As usual, the weeds are growing more vigorously than any edible crop.


Daniel B. Martin


Weeds, ugh! I tried Preen. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.


What kind of Preen did you use? Some is just 2-4D, but Preen weed
preventer is a pre-emergent granular form.
2-4D will NOT kill grass.

Your must read your labels to be sure the product will kill what you
want killed. 2-4D is for killing broadleaf weeds in lawns which is
why it will not kill most grasses (centipede it will kill).

You need a grass killer there are some that will not kill broadleaf
plants, but I don't remember which one.

For grass, Roundup Glyphosate) is preferred. It kills just about
anything though thanks to roundup ready corn and cotton some weeds are
now resistant to it. What I like about roundup is if I accidentally
spray the wrong plant, it can be washed off. I keep a sprinkler can
nearby for that purpose. It only kills by being absorbed by the
leaves and then trans-locates to the roots. You don't want to spray
it if rain is expected. It needs to stay on the plant at least two
hours prior to rain.

It sounds like you have either nutgrass or some kind of spreading
lariope(monkeygrass). You can kill it also but it may need repeat
applications. I keep a hand sprayer of diluted roundup (2-6 ounces
per gallon for 41%) and adjust the sprayer to stream. That way if you
find nutgrass in your regular lawn you can spray straight down the
leaves and let the roundup hit soak in the base and roots. It may
leave a small brown spot, but the nut grass will be killed and the
desired grass will generally fill in quickly. Test just a few
initially to see if it works for you. Roundup can take up to two
weeks to kill. You should see yellowing within a week.

Remember when using any kind of herbicide RTFL - Read The oFficial
Label.!!!!!!!!

If you buy from a garden center you will get dilutions in ounces per
gallon. If you purchase it from Tractor Supply or AGRISUPPLY you may
have to do some math cause it will speak of dilutions based on acres.
Somewhere it will tell you ratios like a pint per 5, 10, or 100
gallons and you have to know a pint is 16 ounces, a quart is 32 and a
gallon is 128 and divide accordingly.

I do not recommend planting before the last week in April at the
earliest for a summer garden.
I did not plant my summer garden until May 2. The green beens, black
eyed peas and okra are doing well I soaked the seed 30-45 minutes
before planting and I think that helped get a good germination.

I did not do this for cukes and have none germinated 10 days later.
Squash are starting to come up, but I may have to replant some hills.
I did not soak either of these. I will the next time.

Just planted Tomato plants, pepper, eggplants this week and they look
well. I mulch them with hardwood mulch to keep the rain from
splashing dirt on the leaves which transmits the nasty diseases these
plants can get.

My potatoes, sugar peas, beets, spinach and chard were planted in late
Feb. Potatoes took forever to sprout. Some in the bag were rotted.
I should have taken them back to Lowes for a better batch. I check
the bag the next time before I leave the store. Sugar snap peas are
doing well. Spinach is about gone due to early heat. Swiss Chard is
producing well and is heat tolerant. Beets are looking really well
after thinning and pulling more dirt up at the base..
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:55 PM posted to triangle.gardens
mj mj is offline
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Posts: 191
Default How are your Gardens?

On May 12, 5:18*pm, WesD wrote:
On May 10, 6:09*am, mj wrote:



On May 9, 9:06*pm, "Daniel B. Martin"


wrote:
On 05/09/2011 10:43 AM, mj wrote:


Mine seems to be getting a very slow start.


We started tomatoes and eggplants from seed, grew them indoors under
artificial light, and transplanted them into the garden. * Most of the
tomatoes are flourishing but the eggplants are struggling.


Sugar snap peas were started from seed weeks ago. * Three feet high,
healthy, lots of blossoms, expect the first harvest any day now.


Sweet pepper seedlings were bought from Logan's in Raleigh, transplanted
a few days ago. * All look happy in their new home.


Planted cucumber seeds today.


As usual, the weeds are growing more vigorously than any edible crop.


Daniel B. Martin


Weeds, ugh! I tried Preen. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.


What kind of Preen did you use? *Some is just 2-4D, but Preen weed
preventer is a pre-emergent granular form.
2-4D will NOT kill grass.

Your must read your labels to be sure the product will kill what you
want killed. *2-4D is for killing broadleaf weeds in lawns which is
why it will not kill most grasses (centipede it will kill).

You need a grass killer there are some that will not kill broadleaf
plants, but I don't remember which one.

For grass, Roundup Glyphosate) is preferred. *It kills just about
anything though thanks to roundup ready corn and cotton some weeds are
now resistant to it. *What I like about roundup is if I accidentally
spray the wrong plant, it can be washed off. *I keep a sprinkler can
nearby for that purpose. * It only kills by being absorbed by the
leaves and then trans-locates to the roots. *You don't want to spray
it if rain is expected. *It needs to stay on *the plant at least two
hours prior to rain.

It sounds like you have either nutgrass or some kind of spreading
lariope(monkeygrass). *You can kill it also but it may need *repeat
applications. *I keep a hand sprayer of diluted roundup (2-6 ounces
per gallon for 41%) and adjust the sprayer to stream. *That way if you
find nutgrass in your regular lawn you can spray straight down the
leaves and let the roundup hit soak in the base and roots. *It may
leave a small brown spot, but the nut grass will be killed and the
desired grass will generally fill in quickly. *Test just a few
initially to see if it works for you. *Roundup can take up to two
weeks to kill. *You should see yellowing within a week.

Remember when using any kind of herbicide RTFL - Read The oFficial
Label.!!!!!!!!

If you buy from a garden center you will get dilutions in ounces per
gallon. *If you purchase it from Tractor Supply or AGRISUPPLY you may
have to do some math cause it will speak of dilutions based on acres.
Somewhere it will tell you ratios like a pint per 5, 10, or 100
gallons and you have to know a pint is 16 ounces, a quart is 32 and a
gallon is 128 and divide accordingly.

I do not recommend planting before the last week in April at the
earliest for a summer garden.
I did not plant my summer garden until May 2. *The green beens, black
eyed peas and okra are doing well I soaked the seed 30-45 minutes
before planting and I think that helped get a good germination.

I did not do this for cukes and have none germinated 10 days later.
Squash are starting to come up, but I may have to replant some hills.
I did not soak either of these. *I will the next time.

Just planted Tomato plants, pepper, eggplants this week and they look
well. *I mulch them with hardwood mulch to keep the rain from
splashing dirt on the leaves which transmits the nasty diseases these
plants can get.

My potatoes, sugar peas, beets, spinach and chard were planted in late
Feb. *Potatoes took forever to sprout. *Some in the bag were rotted.
I should have taken them back to Lowes for a better batch. *I check
the bag the next time before I leave the store. *Sugar snap peas are
doing well. *Spinach is about gone due to early heat. *Swiss Chard is
producing well and is heat tolerant. *Beets are looking really well
after thinning and pulling more dirt up at the base..


I guess I wasn't very clear. I am talking about grass blades in my
raised garden beds. I knew the Preen wouldn't touch the grass, I was
hoping it would take care of the misc. weeds that appear and to some
extent it has. I continue and will continue to spend about an hour a
day pulling the grass out blade by blade. It is getting better, it
used to be two and three hours.
Things are looking better so I guess I have been impatient. Squash and
cucumbers are starting to run, there are flowers on most everything. I
am about 100 miles south east of the triangle so I always jump the
gun.
Thanks again guys, I am sure I will need help and or re-assurance
again !
MJ
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Old 14-05-2011, 01:52 AM posted to triangle.gardens
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On Thu, 12 May 2011 03:05:09 -0700 (PDT) in mj wrote:

I think it is hollow to the tip. The root goes very deep, like 8 plus
inches. I have been digging around each piece of grass and trying to
get all the roots. Sometimes when I dig up one "grass" there are
several moor bent in the ground just waiting to pop up. I have been at
this for a while now and I do think I am making progress but it sure
is frustrating. Because they don't show up in "clusters" I don't think
anything but pulling will help.
I have wondered if I have gotten too close to the plants roots and
maybe I am disturbing them. I am trying to be careful. With
everyone's input I think I am just being impatient. I can't bring
myself to start a thread about my tomato plants already starting to
wilt. Stay Tuned, this will be the third year in a row for that. Good
thing I am determined !!


Sounds like nudsedge and you're just encouraging it to put out
more "nuts" which become new plants.


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Old 14-05-2011, 11:55 AM posted to triangle.gardens
mj mj is offline
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Posts: 191
Default How are your Gardens?

On May 13, 7:52*pm, ? wrote:
On Thu, 12 May 2011 03:05:09 -0700 (PDT) in mj *wrote:



I think it is hollow to the tip. The root goes very deep, like 8 plus
inches. I have been digging around each piece of grass and trying to
get all the roots. Sometimes when I dig up one "grass" there are
several moor bent in the ground just waiting to pop up. I have been at
this for a while now and I do think I am making progress but it sure
is frustrating. Because they don't show up in "clusters" I don't think
anything but pulling will help.
I have wondered if I have gotten too close to the plants roots and
maybe I am disturbing them. I am trying to be careful. *With
everyone's input I think I am just being impatient. I can't bring
myself to start a thread about my tomato plants already starting to
wilt. Stay Tuned, this will be the third year in a row for that. Good
thing I am determined !!


Sounds like nudsedge and you're just encouraging it to put out
more "nuts" which become new plants.


Explain, I don't understand how I am encouraging
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Old 14-05-2011, 02:33 PM posted to triangle.gardens
mj mj is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Mar 2009
Posts: 191
Default How are your Gardens?

On May 14, 5:55*am, mj wrote:
On May 13, 7:52*pm, ? wrote:



On Thu, 12 May 2011 03:05:09 -0700 (PDT) in mj *wrote:


I think it is hollow to the tip. The root goes very deep, like 8 plus
inches. I have been digging around each piece of grass and trying to
get all the roots. Sometimes when I dig up one "grass" there are
several moor bent in the ground just waiting to pop up. I have been at
this for a while now and I do think I am making progress but it sure
is frustrating. Because they don't show up in "clusters" I don't think
anything but pulling will help.
I have wondered if I have gotten too close to the plants roots and
maybe I am disturbing them. I am trying to be careful. *With
everyone's input I think I am just being impatient. I can't bring
myself to start a thread about my tomato plants already starting to
wilt. Stay Tuned, this will be the third year in a row for that. Good
thing I am determined !!


Sounds like nudsedge and you're just encouraging it to put out
more "nuts" which become new plants.


Explain, I don't understand how I am encouraging


I looked up nutgrass and I don't think that is what this is. I don't
see a "nut"
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Old 19-05-2011, 07:36 PM posted to triangle.gardens
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2009
Posts: 34
Default How are your Gardens?

On May 12, 5:55*pm, mj wrote:
On May 12, 5:18*pm, WesD wrote:









On May 10, 6:09*am, mj wrote:


On May 9, 9:06*pm, "Daniel B. Martin"


wrote:
On 05/09/2011 10:43 AM, mj wrote:


Mine seems to be getting a very slow start.


We started tomatoes and eggplants from seed, grew them indoors under
artificial light, and transplanted them into the garden. * Most of the
tomatoes are flourishing but the eggplants are struggling.


Sugar snap peas were started from seed weeks ago. * Three feet high,
healthy, lots of blossoms, expect the first harvest any day now.


Sweet pepper seedlings were bought from Logan's in Raleigh, transplanted
a few days ago. * All look happy in their new home.


Planted cucumber seeds today.


As usual, the weeds are growing more vigorously than any edible crop.


Daniel B. Martin


Weeds, ugh! I tried Preen. Don't waste your money. I spend about an
hour a day pulling out some kind of grass from hell. From what you
said I am thinking two things. I am south and east of the triangle and
put my plants in the first ten days of April. All had been started
indoors in pod things. Maybe that was too soon. Then there is always
the fact that I look at them too often so nothing ever seems to
change. Patience is not my strong suit but it is good to know that I
am probably just expecting too much too soon.


What kind of Preen did you use? *Some is just 2-4D, but Preen weed
preventer is a pre-emergent granular form.
2-4D will NOT kill grass.


Your must read your labels to be sure the product will kill what you
want killed. *2-4D is for killing broadleaf weeds in lawns which is
why it will not kill most grasses (centipede it will kill).


You need a grass killer there are some that will not kill broadleaf
plants, but I don't remember which one.


For grass, Roundup Glyphosate) is preferred. *It kills just about
anything though thanks to roundup ready corn and cotton some weeds are
now resistant to it. *What I like about roundup is if I accidentally
spray the wrong plant, it can be washed off. *I keep a sprinkler can
nearby for that purpose. * It only kills by being absorbed by the
leaves and then trans-locates to the roots. *You don't want to spray
it if rain is expected. *It needs to stay on *the plant at least two
hours prior to rain.


It sounds like you have either nutgrass or some kind of spreading
lariope(monkeygrass). *You can kill it also but it may need *repeat
applications. *I keep a hand sprayer of diluted roundup (2-6 ounces
per gallon for 41%) and adjust the sprayer to stream. *That way if you
find nutgrass in your regular lawn you can spray straight down the
leaves and let the roundup hit soak in the base and roots. *It may
leave a small brown spot, but the nut grass will be killed and the
desired grass will generally fill in quickly. *Test just a few
initially to see if it works for you. *Roundup can take up to two
weeks to kill. *You should see yellowing within a week.


Remember when using any kind of herbicide RTFL - Read The oFficial
Label.!!!!!!!!


If you buy from a garden center you will get dilutions in ounces per
gallon. *If you purchase it from Tractor Supply or AGRISUPPLY you may
have to do some math cause it will speak of dilutions based on acres.
Somewhere it will tell you ratios like a pint per 5, 10, or 100
gallons and you have to know a pint is 16 ounces, a quart is 32 and a
gallon is 128 and divide accordingly.


I do not recommend planting before the last week in April at the
earliest for a summer garden.
I did not plant my summer garden until May 2. *The green beens, black
eyed peas and okra are doing well I soaked the seed 30-45 minutes
before planting and I think that helped get a good germination.


I did not do this for cukes and have none germinated 10 days later.
Squash are starting to come up, but I may have to replant some hills.
I did not soak either of these. *I will the next time.


Just planted Tomato plants, pepper, eggplants this week and they look
well. *I mulch them with hardwood mulch to keep the rain from
splashing dirt on the leaves which transmits the nasty diseases these
plants can get.


My potatoes, sugar peas, beets, spinach and chard were planted in late
Feb. *Potatoes took forever to sprout. *Some in the bag were rotted..
I should have taken them back to Lowes for a better batch. *I check
the bag the next time before I leave the store. *Sugar snap peas are
doing well. *Spinach is about gone due to early heat. *Swiss Chard is
producing well and is heat tolerant. *Beets are looking really well
after thinning and pulling more dirt up at the base..


I guess I wasn't very clear. I am talking about grass blades in my
raised garden beds. I knew the Preen wouldn't touch the grass, I was
hoping it would take care of the misc. weeds that appear and to some
extent it has. *I continue and will continue to spend about an hour a
day pulling the grass out blade by blade. It is getting better, it
used to be *two and three hours.
Things are looking better so I guess I have been impatient. Squash and
cucumbers are starting to run, there are flowers on most everything. I
am about 100 miles south east of the triangle so I always jump the
gun.
Thanks again guys, I am sure I will need help and or re-assurance
again !
MJ


You still have not said what type of Preen you used. The pre emergent
will prevent germination of grasses and broad leaf plants.

Grass in raised garden beds is probably best removed mechanically via
H/H - Hand/Hoe.
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