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#1
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composting containers and enclosures
I'm currently enjoying the free use of a portion of someone's garden. I'll be using my designated patch to grow some veggies and some fruit bushes. I'm a total beginner, so I'll be learning as I go along. I'm picking up some good ideas from pc mags and books. The gardener who takes care of the rest of the garden seems to burn all the weeds he pulls up, along with all hedge trimmings. I could use all that material for making compost. So I've been looking for ideas on composting enclosures or containers. Can anyone offer any suggestions or provide a link to a site that has a design or two I can use? If the said enclosure/container can be made out of material that doesn't cost anything, all the better... It needs to be able to house at least a cubic meter of vegetable matter. Two cubic metres would be better. Any tips on where to locate the container would be appreciated too. Thank you, JD |
#2
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composting containers and enclosures
"JakeD" wrote in message
I'm currently enjoying the free use of a portion of someone's garden. I'll be using my designated patch to grow some veggies and some fruit bushes. I'm a total beginner, so I'll be learning as I go along. I'm picking up some good ideas from pc mags and books. The gardener who takes care of the rest of the garden seems to burn all the weeds he pulls up, along with all hedge trimmings. I could use all that material for making compost. So I've been looking for ideas on composting enclosures or containers. Can anyone offer any suggestions or provide a link to a site that has a design or two I can use? If the said enclosure/container can be made out of material that doesn't cost anything, all the better... It needs to be able to house at least a cubic meter of vegetable matter. Two cubic metres would be better. Any tips on where to locate the container would be appreciated too. 4 pallets would work and should be free the sort of wooden pallets used for bricks. Wire them together and fill then up. |
#3
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composting containers and enclosures
On Mon, 1 Oct 2007 18:48:47 +1000, "FarmI" ask@itshall be given
wrote: 4 pallets would work and should be free the sort of wooden pallets used for bricks. Wire them together and fill then up. Thank you for the tip. I guess one side of the enclosure could wired up only on one side so that it can be opened like a gate, allowing you to fork out the well-rotted stuff from the bottom of the heap. Is that how you do it? I guess it makes sense to treat the timber with wood preservative, so that it lasts longer, yes? JD |
#4
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composting containers and enclosures
"JakeD" wrote in message
... On Mon, 1 Oct 2007 18:48:47 +1000, "FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote: 4 pallets would work and should be free the sort of wooden pallets used for bricks. Wire them together and fill then up. Thank you for the tip. I guess one side of the enclosure could wired up only on one side so that it can be opened like a gate, allowing you to fork out the well-rotted stuff from the bottom of the heap. Is that how you do it? Yep, but it takes a lot of material to fill somewthing htis size. Also look for an old piece of carpet to put on top of the compost to stop it drying out. You could ram star pickets (Y posts I think they are called in US) into the ground on the sides to hold it strongly but it may not need it. I guess it makes sense to treat the timber with wood preservative, so that it lasts longer, yes? Depending on how available they are in your area, it may not be worth bothering with. If they can be found anywhere then don't waste the money and effort :-)) |
#5
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composting containers and enclosures
On Tue, 02 Oct 2007 18:10:39 +0100, JakeD wrote:
I guess it makes sense to treat the timber with wood preservative, so that it lasts longer, yes? Many folks would say no. The preservative can, and probably will, leach into the compost. I'd rather have to replace the pallets. You might not want to use treated wood either. Have you thought about sheet composting? You just spread the organic matter over the ground and till it in. Over the winter the worms will feast on the matter and improve your soil. In the spring/summer you can just make a pile. Then when your peas are done, till it all in that area along with the pea plants. Very little storage area is needed that way. I have one area (5' X 50' strip) in the backyard where I tilled in approx 400 pounds of pumpkins. Two years ago I tilled in a pickup load of leaves in another small area. We have great soil compared to the rest of our area. We do have 2 plastic compost bins that we fill on a regular basis, 5-6 times a year. When I fill them I have to pretty much sit on the lid to get it on. Everything I add in whole. I had to bend the corn stocks to get them in the bin. I throw entire squash, pumpkins, tree branches (1" and smaller), weeds. My wife is giving a class on composting and she is going to take photos of the insides of our bins. I guess to use as an example of how not to use a bin. I don't cut anything up I put into the bins. I also don't care about green brown ratios. Don't put meat into the bins, although you probably knew that already. We've only used the bins here for three years. We haven't had to empty them one time. I am amazed at how times I've filled them. Good luck, Steve |
#6
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composting containers and enclosures
On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 17:18:38 -0600, SteveSch
wrote: I guess it makes sense to treat the timber with wood preservative, so that it lasts longer, yes? Many folks would say no. The preservative can, and probably will, leach into the compost. I'd rather have to replace the pallets. You might not want to use treated wood either. Have you thought about sheet composting? You just spread the organic matter over the ground and till it in. Over the winter the worms will feast on the matter and improve your soil. In the spring/summer you can just make a pile. Then when your peas are done, till it all in that area along with the pea plants. Very little storage area is needed that way. I have one area (5' X 50' strip) in the backyard where I tilled in approx 400 pounds of pumpkins. Two years ago I tilled in a pickup load of leaves in another small area. We have great soil compared to the rest of our area. We do have 2 plastic compost bins that we fill on a regular basis, 5-6 times a year. When I fill them I have to pretty much sit on the lid to get it on. Everything I add in whole. I had to bend the corn stocks to get them in the bin. I throw entire squash, pumpkins, tree branches (1" and smaller), weeds. My wife is giving a class on composting and she is going to take photos of the insides of our bins. I guess to use as an example of how not to use a bin. I don't cut anything up I put into the bins. I also don't care about green brown ratios. Don't put meat into the bins, although you probably knew that already. We've only used the bins here for three years. We haven't had to empty them one time. I am amazed at how times I've filled them. Thanks for the replies. What is the pc angle on wormeries? Are they worth having? I often wonder if they expend a lot of valuable nutrients on raising worms rather than raising plants! If I want rich fibrous compost, would I be best advised to use a traditional compost bin or heap? I've also wondered if there is some kind of small, hygenic compost bin one can keep inside the kitchen for food scraps. At the moment, I use a brown paper bag at the back of the kitchen sink draining board, but it attracts flies into the kitchen even when it's only half full. Perhaps I should empty it more often, but the compost heap is located some distance from the kitchen, so I like to keep trips there to a minimum. We did try using a black bin on the concrete area right outside the kitchen door, but it didn't make good compost, as it had no drainage or air holes, and was too far away from earth and vegetation. JD |
#7
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composting containers and enclosures
On Tue, 02 Oct 2007 18:10:39 +0100, JakeD wrote: We do have 2 plastic compost bins that we fill on a regular basis, 5-6 times a year. When I fill them I have to pretty much sit on the lid to get it on. Everything I add in whole. I had to bend the corn stocks to get them in the bin. I throw entire squash, pumpkins, tree branches (1" and smaller), weeds. My wife is giving a class on composting and she is going to take photos of the insides of our bins. I guess to use as an example of how not to use a bin. I don't cut anything up I put into the bins. I also don't care about green brown ratios. Don't put meat into the bins, although you probably knew that already. We've only used the bins here for three years. We haven't had to empty them one time. I am amazed at how times I've filled them. That's interesting. Since my original query, I think I've settled on a plan... We have two black plastic dustbins that aren't being used (leftovers from before our (UK) local council introduced big wheelie bins). The two older bins are cylidrical, except narrower at the bottom than at the top. My plan is to place one of these on some bare earth, near the kitchen door and also near my vegetable patch. I plan to make some 2" diameter holes in the sides (for ventilation) and in the bottom (to allow the worms to come and go). When the bin is full, I'll take the lid off and invert the bin onto an adjacent patch of ground. (It should empty out easily due to the tapered shape of the bin.) What was at the bottom of the bin will now be at the top of the resulting pile, and I will shovel that off, directly onto my vegetable patch. The unrotted remainder will go back into the bin, and the bin will be used as before and so on. Well, that's the theory, anyway. I'll report back after I've tried it. I'll add a couple of hanfuls of earth from the veggie patch every time I empty the kitchen waste bag into the bin. I gather this will aid composting. Comments invited... and if anyone can think of a good use for that other spare bin... JD |
#8
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composting containers and enclosures
"JakeD" wrote in message
We have two black plastic dustbins that aren't being used (leftovers from before our (UK) local council introduced big wheelie bins). The two older bins are cylidrical, except narrower at the bottom than at the top. My plan is to place one of these on some bare earth, near the kitchen door and also near my vegetable patch. I plan to make some 2" diameter holes in the sides (for ventilation) and in the bottom (to allow the worms to come and go). Wrong sort of worms Jake. The worms used in wormeries are red and are called compost worms. These sites might help: http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1074679.htm http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1620935.htm Comments invited... and if anyone can think of a good use for that other spare bin... Use it to make liquid manure which you let fester for a few weeks then dilute to the colour of weak tea and pour on plants. You can put in manure held in an old mesh sack or just throw in clipping weeds and top with water, or pee in it occassionally or all sorts of things. |
#9
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composting containers and enclosures
In article ,
JakeD wrote: The gardener who takes care of the rest of the garden seems to burn all the weeds he pulls up, along with all hedge trimmings. I could use all that material for making compost. Well... it depends on the weeds. Some weeds have seeds that are hard to kill in compost bins unless you are really conscientious about the compost (and I am not). The ash might be good, though, especially if your soil is naturally acidic. -- Chookie -- Sydney, Australia (Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply) http://chookiesbackyard.blogspot.com/ |
#10
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composting containers and enclosures
In article ,
JakeD wrote: I've also wondered if there is some kind of small, hygenic compost bin one can keep inside the kitchen for food scraps. At the moment, I use a brown paper bag at the back of the kitchen sink draining board, but it attracts flies into the kitchen even when it's only half full. Perhaps I should empty it more often, but the compost heap is located some distance from the kitchen, so I like to keep trips there to a minimum. Try a lid on your bucket. Secondly, it's worth a daily trip to the compost heap to prevent the vinegar flies from hovering in the kitchen. The other option is of course to move the heap closer, but that seems to be a problem for you. -- Chookie -- Sydney, Australia (Replace "foulspambegone" with "optushome" to reply) http://chookiesbackyard.blogspot.com/ |
#11
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composting containers and enclosures
On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 21:32:40 +1000, Chookie
wrote: Try a lid on your bucket. Secondly, it's worth a daily trip to the compost heap to prevent the vinegar flies from hovering in the kitchen. The other option is of course to move the heap closer, but that seems to be a problem for you. I think I've got a working system now. I have cut the bottom off an old plastic dustbin. I then upturned it and drilled some holes around the rim for ventilation. On this, I'm using a heavy rubber lid from another old dustbin. This compost bin will be used for kitchen scraps plus possibly seedless weeds from my veg beds. It now sits a few paces from the kitchen door and about one pace from my veg beds. The idea is that the bin can be lifted off once it is full, leaving a neat pile. The unrotted protion can be forked back into the bin for further composting. I'm told that if you chuck a handful of garden soil in occasionally, it accelerates the composting. Here's a pic: http://tinyurl.com/2acpyf Thanks all for the input. JD |
#12
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composting containers and enclosures
On Oct 6, 5:37 am, JakeD wrote:
On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 17:18:38 -0600, SteveSch wrote: I guess it makes sense to treat the timber with wood preservative, so that it lasts longer, yes? Many folks would say no. The preservative can, and probably will, leach into the compost. I'd rather have to replace the pallets. You might not want to use treated wood either. Have you thought about sheet composting? You just spread the organic matter over the ground and till it in. Over the winter the worms will feast on the matter and improve your soil. In the spring/summer you can just make a pile. Then when your peas are done, till it all in that area along with the pea plants. Very little storage area is needed that way. I have one area (5' X 50' strip) in the backyard where I tilled in approx 400 pounds of pumpkins. Two years ago I tilled in a pickup load of leaves in another small area. We have great soil compared to the rest of our area. We do have 2 plastic compost bins that we fill on a regular basis, 5-6 times a year. When I fill them I have to pretty much sit on the lid to get it on. Everything I add in whole. I had to bend the corn stocks to get them in the bin. I throw entire squash, pumpkins, tree branches (1" and smaller), weeds. My wife is giving a class on composting and she is going to take photos of the insides of our bins. I guess to use as an example of how not to use a bin. I don't cut anything up I put into the bins. I also don't care about green brown ratios. Don't put meat into the bins, although you probably knew that already. We've only used the bins here for three years. We haven't had to empty them one time. I am amazed at how times I've filled them. Thanks for the replies. What is the pc angle on wormeries? Are they worth having? Very much so. What takes your backyard pile six months to break down, with frequent pest problems, a converted 14 gallon Rubbermaid bin in the cellar can transform into black gold in two weeks, the worst pest problem being a rare, transient fruit fly outbreak. I often wonder if they expend a lot of valuable nutrients on raising worms rather than raising plants! If I want rich fibrous compost, would I be best advised to use a traditional compost bin or heap? I've also wondered if there is some kind of small, hygenic compost bin one can keep inside the kitchen for food scraps. 5 gallon paint pail. Ventilating and draining the pail with lots of 1/16" holes and throwing in wet newspaper turns it into a worm bin. Two such pails, with an unventilated, undrained third bucket underneath makes a barebones cheap stacking bin. At the moment, I use a brown paper bag at the back of the kitchen sink draining board, but it attracts flies into the kitchen even when it's only half full. Perhaps I should empty it more often, but the compost heap is located some distance from the kitchen, so I like to keep trips there to a minimum. The brown bag itself will be converted into black gold if you feed it to the worms. We did try using a black bin on the concrete area right outside the kitchen door, but it didn't make good compost, as it had no drainage or air holes, and was too far away from earth and vegetation. Go with the worm bin. |
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