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#1
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Best bare-root soil ammendments
I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am
going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for the most effective soil amendments. Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the roses' growth. Any good recommendations? |
#2
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Best bare-root soil ammendments
I only put a bit of bone meal in the hole, if I use anything as a
fertilizer. As far as soil preparation, it really depends on the type of soil you have in the first place. I know Pickering roses, who sell a ton of bare-roots, does not recommend, and, as a matter of fact, sight putting manure in the hole as possible cause for "failure to thrive". That being said, if the manure is well aged, the actual nitrogen content is not very high. Interestingly, when using horse manure, as I do, you need to be careful that you do not create a nitrogen defiance, as the wood chips used in the stalls as bedding are high in carbon, which depletes the stores of nitrogen in the surrounding soil. The American Rose Society has a bunch of info on soil preparation, so that would be a good place to look. Best Regards Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 wrote in message ... I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for the most effective soil amendments. Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the roses' growth. Any good recommendations? |
#3
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Best bare-root soil ammendments
Here's what Pickering has to say. Note they do say it's OK to use dry, well
decomposed manure. Before you plant: a.. Gather the tools, etc. you need; spade, gloves, bucket of water, garden hose with water turned on. b.. Decide where the plants are going to be planted. c.. Prepare the Planting Area or Rose Bed. Ideally one should prepare the bed about 3 weeks prior to planting. Roses prefer a fairly rich clay based soil that is well drained. They also benefit from generous amounts of organic matter; peatmoss, compost, or well rotted (or Packaged) manure mixed into the soil. The area should have about 18" of good soil mixture for best results. If you are planting roses in an existing garden you should prepare each location prior to planting. d.. Dig and prepare the holes. Dig the holes about 18 inches deep and wide, mix in a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate at the bottom of the hole. You CAN omit the bonemeal if you're going to use a plant starter solution after planting). DO NOT USE GRANULAR ROSE FOOD AT PLANTING TIME, IT WILL KILL THE ROSE. Ready to Plant: Bare Root Plants - Place in a bucket of water while you're working, removing only the one that will be immediately planted. If you can't fit all the plants in the bucket, leave the remaining ones sealed in the bag in a cool place out of the sun. Established Potted roses - When removing containers TAKE CARE NOT TO DISTURB THE ROOT BALL. Place the rose in the hole setting the union AT LEAST 2 INCHES BELOW THE SURFACE of the garden. This is imperative in zone 6 and colder as it affords the plant extra protection in the winter, in warmer climates the union may be placed level with the surface. You may plant deeper if you wish. *Some of our customers in Minnesota and Manitoba plant as deep as 6 inches below the surface with great success. Back fill the hole and compress the soil with your foot. Packing it down with your hands isn't good enough as it doesn't eliminate air pockets. Water the plants thoroughly with plain water or you may use a plant starter solution but DO NOT USE ROSE FOOD AS IT WILL BURN THE ROOTS. Back fill the remaining depressed area with more soil and ensure that the union is covered by at least 2". For early (or late) season planting hill the plants up with a mound of soil about 10" deep. This protects the plant for the winter or if planting in the spring, protects the plant from drying out while it sets roots. Remove after 2 weeks. http://www.pickeringnurseries.com/planting.htm Jeff, Southeast Michigan, zone 5 (and its colder than a well digger's butt!) wrote in message ... I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for the most effective soil amendments. Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the roses' growth. Any good recommendations? |
#4
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Best bare-root soil ammendments
On Feb 20, 3:01 pm, "Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote:
Here's what Pickering has to say. Note they do say it's OK to use dry, well decomposed manure. Before you plant: a.. Gather the tools, etc. you need; spade, gloves, bucket of water, garden hose with water turned on. b.. Decide where the plants are going to be planted. c.. Prepare the Planting Area or Rose Bed. Ideally one should prepare the bed about 3 weeks prior to planting. Roses prefer a fairly rich clay based soil that is well drained. They also benefit from generous amounts of organic matter; peatmoss, compost, or well rotted (or Packaged) manure mixed into the soil. The area should have about 18" of good soil mixture for best results. If you are planting roses in an existing garden you should prepare each location prior to planting. d.. Dig and prepare the holes. Dig the holes about 18 inches deep and wide, mix in a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate at the bottom of the hole. You CAN omit the bonemeal if you're going to use a plant starter solution after planting). DO NOT USE GRANULAR ROSE FOOD AT PLANTING TIME, IT WILL KILL THE ROSE. Ready to Plant: Bare Root Plants - Place in a bucket of water while you're working, removing only the one that will be immediately planted. If you can't fit all the plants in the bucket, leave the remaining ones sealed in the bag in a cool place out of the sun. Established Potted roses - When removing containers TAKE CARE NOT TO DISTURB THE ROOT BALL. Place the rose in the hole setting the union AT LEAST 2 INCHES BELOW THE SURFACE of the garden. This is imperative in zone 6 and colder as it affords the plant extra protection in the winter, in warmer climates the union may be placed level with the surface. You may plant deeper if you wish. *Some of our customers in Minnesota and Manitoba plant as deep as 6 inches below the surface with great success. Back fill the hole and compress the soil with your foot. Packing it down with your hands isn't good enough as it doesn't eliminate air pockets. Water the plants thoroughly with plain water or you may use a plant starter solution but DO NOT USE ROSE FOOD AS IT WILL BURN THE ROOTS. Back fill the remaining depressed area with more soil and ensure that the union is covered by at least 2". For early (or late) season planting hill the plants up with a mound of soil about 10" deep. This protects the plant for the winter or if planting in the spring, protects the plant from drying out while it sets roots. Remove after 2 weeks. http://www.pickeringnurseries.com/planting.htm Jeff, Southeast Michigan, zone 5 (and its colder than a well digger's butt!) wrote in message ... I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for the most effective soil amendments. Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the roses' growth. Any good recommendations? I have a follow up. You posted that I shouldn't use granular food when planting a bare root rose. How long after the rose has been planted can I begin to add the food? I use the Bayer 2-in-1 Systemic Rose fertilizer, but they indicate you can place it in the ground at planting. I want to get the roses off to a good start, but I really want to also have some color this year too. |
#5
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Best bare-root soil ammendments
I'd give the plant at least 4 weeks before feeding. And I'd go light at
first. The risk here is that the nitrogen will burn the young feeder roots, which is not so good. Some say after the first bloom. Right now water is the most important thing. Some every day or so. Nothing you do will make the first flush outstanding, but if you avoid stressing the roses by feeding too soon, the root systems will establish, and by mid summer you'll be glad you went easy. Next year, you can start feeding soon after new growth appears and every 6 weeks there after until 6 weeks before the first hard frost of fall is scheduled. Gook luck Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 I have a follow up. You posted that I shouldn't use granular food when planting a bare root rose. How long after the rose has been planted can I begin to add the food? I use the Bayer 2-in-1 Systemic Rose fertilizer, but they indicate you can place it in the ground at planting. I want to get the roses off to a good start, but I really want to also have some color this year too. |
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