Well, my peach tree made a ton of peaches, all or most of which had
worms in the center, and/or brown rot. The red admirals are drunk out
there and I mean drunk and many thousands of them.

Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.
Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and
poop on my canopy to mark THEIR peach tree. I don't mind, but if the
tree was shorter they can get to it without skating the canopy and
maybe I can pick the peaches easier. Does anyone have any good book
recomendations regarding peaches?

Victoria

jangchub wrote:

Well, my peach tree made a ton of peaches, all or most of which had
worms in the center, and/or brown rot. The red admirals are drunk out
there and I mean drunk and many thousands of them.

Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.
Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and
poop on my canopy to mark THEIR peach tree. I don't mind, but if the
tree was shorter they can get to it without skating the canopy and
maybe I can pick the peaches easier. Does anyone have any good book
recomendations regarding peaches?

Victoria

I keep all my fruit trees pruned to ten feet tall. There are many guides
to pruning but your best recommendations for fruit trees will probably
come from your state agricultural extension service. If you're in Texas
TAMU is your friend. If you don't spray at all you probably will never
get a decent crop. I only use dormant oil spray in the winter and it has
improved my crop greatly. Proper pruning will also help in letting light
and air into the interior of the tree plus you will need to get rid of
some of the fruit so others will get bigger. HTH

George, USDA Zone 9b, SW Louisiana

jangchub wrote:
Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.

I'd love some advice on that too, we haven't had a peach in 2 years!!!
The trees are strikingly beautiful when blooming though.

Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and

I'd wait until February to prune them. Let the leaves produce energy now.

--
Victor M. Martinez
Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
Send your spam he
Email me he

On 7/13/2007 1:35 PM, Victor Martinez wrote:
jangchub wrote:
Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.

I'd love some advice on that too, we haven't had a peach in 2 years!!!
The trees are strikingly beautiful when blooming though.

Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and

I'd wait until February to prune them. Let the leaves produce energy now.


If you are trying to grow something that does not grow in nature (a
hybridized peach), then you must resort to some non-natural practices.
I use a spray that combines dormant oil (which kills over-wintering
insects and their eggs) with copper sulfate (which prevents fungus and
other diseases). I spray this immediately after pruning and again just
as the flower bud swell and begin to show red (and again if it rains
within 48 hours after spraying).

Gather up all fallen fruit and trash it. Don't leave it to become a
breeding ground for next year's brown rot.

Prune in the winter. If you normally get snow, wait until the buds
swell slightly. In my area, I prune around New Year. Don't prune now;
the tree is forming the wood on which next year's crop will appear.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/

--
Many tree problems are associated with the following: They are Case
Sensitive.

Troubles in the Rhizosphere
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html
and
Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com

Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Improper Pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning

Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Tree Farming and Related Problems
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"jangchub" wrote in message
...
Well, my peach tree made a ton of peaches, all or most of which had
worms in the center, and/or brown rot. The red admirals are drunk out
there and I mean drunk and many thousands of them.

Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.
Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and
poop on my canopy to mark THEIR peach tree. I don't mind, but if the
tree was shorter they can get to it without skating the canopy and
maybe I can pick the peaches easier. Does anyone have any good book
recomendations regarding peaches?

Victoria

"jangchub" wrote in message
...
Well, my peach tree made a ton of peaches, all or most of which had
worms in the center, and/or brown rot. The red admirals are drunk out
there and I mean drunk and many thousands of them.

Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.
Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off.

NO !!

See pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning/

Proper mulching would be great!!!!

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.



\

The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and
poop on my canopy to mark THEIR peach tree. I don't mind, but if the
tree was shorter they can get to it without skating the canopy and
maybe I can pick the peaches easier. Does anyone have any good book
recomendations regarding peaches?

Victoria

As with any pesticides, caution must be taken.
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/spring.html

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"David E. Ross" wrote in message
news
On 7/13/2007 1:35 PM, Victor Martinez wrote:
jangchub wrote:
Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.

I'd love some advice on that too, we haven't had a peach in 2 years!!!
The trees are strikingly beautiful when blooming though.

Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and

I'd wait until February to prune them. Let the leaves produce energy now.


If you are trying to grow something that does not grow in nature (a
hybridized peach), then you must resort to some non-natural practices.
I use a spray that combines dormant oil (which kills over-wintering
insects and their eggs) with copper sulfate (which prevents fungus and
other diseases). I spray this immediately after pruning and again just
as the flower bud swell and begin to show red (and again if it rains
within 48 hours after spraying).

Gather up all fallen fruit and trash it. Don't leave it to become a
breeding ground for next year's brown rot.

Prune in the winter. If you normally get snow, wait until the buds
swell slightly. In my area, I prune around New Year. Don't prune now;
the tree is forming the wood on which next year's crop will appear.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/

My Ortho Problem Solver suggests spraying your peaches about 3 weeks before
harvest with a fungicide containing triforine. Besides the usual cleanup of
infected
material around the tree, next spring spray the tree as the first flowers begin
to open
with a fungicide containing either triforine or chlorothalonil as the first
flowers begin
to open. Continue spraying as the label suggests. That book again is 'The
Ortho
Home Gardener's Problem Solver'. They also have a more extensive version in a
professional edition (more expensive).

I would trap the racoons and get rid of them. If you prune, don't cut off more
than
1/3 of the tree in any season and do it in late fall or very early spring when
the tree
is dormant. I would also suggest planting a semi-dwarf tree instead of a full
standard
peach, next time.

Sherwin D.

jangchub wrote:

Well, my peach tree made a ton of peaches, all or most of which had
worms in the center, and/or brown rot. The red admirals are drunk out
there and I mean drunk and many thousands of them.

Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.
Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and
poop on my canopy to mark THEIR peach tree. I don't mind, but if the
tree was shorter they can get to it without skating the canopy and
maybe I can pick the peaches easier. Does anyone have any good book
recomendations regarding peaches?

Victoria

On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:35:56 -0500, Victor Martinez
wrote:

I'd love some advice on that too, we haven't had a peach in 2 years!!!
The trees are strikingly beautiful when blooming though.

Do you know the chill hours on your peach? Mine is 400. Last winter
we finally had at least or close to temps below 45 for 400 hours.
Fruit trees, particularly peaches will show beautiful flowers, but if
the chill hours aren't there the blossoms abort the fruit along with
them when they fall off.

I'd wait until February to prune them. Let the leaves produce energy now.

I agree, but peaches set fruit on new wood. So, my line of thinking
was that if I cut out all the largest and oldest limbs I'd encourage
new growth. Then, in February prune it back into the scaffold I have
it pruned into now.

I'm going to go take a look at Dromgool's peach orchard at the store.

No thank you. I am an organic gardener. If it means I won't ever get
a healthy peach, so be it, but I will not be using anything Ortho puts
out. I wouldn't trust them if it was labeled certified organic.

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 00:39:35 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

My Ortho Problem Solver suggests spraying your peaches about 3 weeks before
harvest with a fungicide containing triforine. Besides the usual cleanup of
infected
material around the tree, next spring spray the tree as the first flowers begin
to open
with a fungicide containing either triforine or chlorothalonil as the first
flowers begin
to open. Continue spraying as the label suggests. That book again is 'The
Ortho
Home Gardener's Problem Solver'. They also have a more extensive version in a
professional edition (more expensive).

I would trap the racoons and get rid of them. If you prune, don't cut off more
than
1/3 of the tree in any season and do it in late fall or very early spring when
the tree
is dormant. I would also suggest planting a semi-dwarf tree instead of a full
standard
peach, next time.

Sherwin D.

jangchub wrote:

Well, my peach tree made a ton of peaches, all or most of which had
worms in the center, and/or brown rot. The red admirals are drunk out
there and I mean drunk and many thousands of them.

Anyway, I don't kill insects, but does anyone know of a way to prevent
brown rot aside from proper hygiene after the growing season is over.
Also, I was wondering if I can do an extreme pruning after all the
fruit has fallen off. The tree is a good umbrella shape, but it is
way too tall...about 14 feet tall. The raccoons get up in there and
poop on my canopy to mark THEIR peach tree. I don't mind, but if the
tree was shorter they can get to it without skating the canopy and
maybe I can pick the peaches easier. Does anyone have any good book
recomendations regarding peaches?

Victoria

"jangchub" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 13 Jul 2007 15:35:56 -0500, Victor Martinez
wrote:


I'd wait until February to prune them. Let the leaves produce energy now.

I agree, but peaches set fruit on new wood. So, my line of thinking
was that if I cut out all the largest and oldest limbs I'd encourage
new growth. Then, in February prune it back into the scaffold I have
it pruned into now.

An article in the Statesman yesterday about the impact of the rain had
this:
"....says Bill Psencik of the Psencik Peach Farm in Fredericksburg

"The foliage on the trees is so dense that we will have to do a lot of
summer pruning to allow adequate sunlight to enter the inside of the canopy
of the trees," Psencik says. "This can have a great effect on the amount of
next year's peach crop."

So, apparently pruning in Summer is not a bad thing.



I'm going to go take a look at Dromgool's peach orchard at the store.

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:01:09 -0500, "cat daddy"
wrote:

An article in the Statesman yesterday about the impact of the rain had
this:
"....says Bill Psencik of the Psencik Peach Farm in Fredericksburg

"The foliage on the trees is so dense that we will have to do a lot of
summer pruning to allow adequate sunlight to enter the inside of the canopy
of the trees," Psencik says. "This can have a great effect on the amount of
next year's peach crop."

So, apparently pruning in Summer is not a bad thing.

Yes, this is in line with my original thought to remove most of the
old wood which will no longer produce fruit and cut it back hard.
Summer pruning on fruit trees is very common.

Since the tree has given me brown rot for the last three years, and if
it doesn't get remedy I was going to remove it and plant another on
the other side of the property...well, I have nothing to lose. So, I
will follow my instinct and cut it back and prune heavily so new wood
will grow out for next years fruit. I made a mistake in my
terminology, peaches fruit on second year wood, meaning whatever new
wood grows this year, will be the shoots to produce fruit next year.
The shoots are from 18 to 24 inches long and those (generally red in
color) will be the shoots to produce next year.

I will also use a copper fungicide or something similar, but I will
not use pesticides. I don't kill. That's that.

jangchub wrote:
Do you know the chill hours on your peach? Mine is 400. Last winter

I don't remember, but it made sense for Austin when we got them.

we finally had at least or close to temps below 45 for 400 hours.
Fruit trees, particularly peaches will show beautiful flowers, but if
the chill hours aren't there the blossoms abort the fruit along with
them when they fall off.

I didn't mean to say the trees do not produce fruit. They do. We just
don't get to eat any because they rot.


--
Victor M. Martinez
Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
Send your spam he
Email me he

jangchub wrote:
not use pesticides. I don't kill. That's that.

Actually, we all do. Whether we want to or not.

--
Victor M. Martinez
Owned and operated by the Fantastic Seven (TM)
Send your spam he
Email me he

In article ,
Victor Martinez wrote:

jangchub wrote:
not use pesticides. I don't kill. That's that.

Actually, we all do. Whether we want to or not.

All we have to do is look at our cars radiator. Then imagine what the
radiators of the trucks that bring us our foods look like.

Bill

--

S Jersey USA Zone 5 Shade
http://www.ocutech.com/ High tech Vison aid
This article is posted under fair use rules in accordance with
Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, and is strictly for the educational
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