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#1
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when to prune apple, pear, cherry trees & redcurrents
On the allotment that I have just obtained are an Apple / conference
pear and cherry tree. They are in bad need of a prune to get some shape back. When should I prune these and also are there any recommended methods for doing this ? Also I have a couple of small redcurrent bushes how and when should these be pruned ? |
#2
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when to prune apple, pear, cherry trees & redcurrents
Hello,
The timing and kind of pruning required is dependant on the type of fruit. For your apple and pear tree the winter pruning approach would be as follows: As the tree has not been looked after for a while then pests and diseases can be an issue, particully once you start stiring things up by pruning. Here are a few steps to take. .. First, this kind of pruning is done when the tree is dormant and there is no hard cold spell that could damage the exposed tissues. Secondly if there is a lot do do, then the work should be spread over at least two, preferably more, winters. As the tree is of an age, be careful as to what is safe to stand on if you are climbing it. .. 1. As with any pruning remove any dead, dieing or damaged branches. Think larger banches rather than the fine growth, those that need a saw rather than seceteurs. For the most part you will be cutting back to healthy growth. 2. Remove branches that are growing the wrong way - they want to bee going outwards not back into the crown of the tree. 3. Next are the crossing branches, here you need to stand back and look at the tree from several positions to descide which branch to remove. 4. Deal with branches that are too high, too low and too spreading. Having done all this you will start to have a framework to work with. 5. Then it is a question of overcrowding. This is the enemy - congestion limits light and air flow. 6. To help prevent fungal infections spreading, paint over large wounds with a fungicidal paint such as Medo, available from good garden centres. The best advice I can give is to take your time, follow the steps in order. Yes you are likely to go around the tree a few / several times, but by following the steps you avoid being too drastic and being left with a stump. Winter pruning encourages growth, so don't be suprised to see lots of new growth next season. Come summer, the new growth can be thinned to select new branches. It will probably take three to five years to get the tree The RHS has a leaflet - which can be found at http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...fruit_tree.asp The cherry tree is slightly different as the pruning of sweet cherries is different from acdo / morello cherries - so rather than explain - do you know what you have got? As far as your redcurrant bushes go, if they have finished fruiting they can be pruned now. Winter pruning is generally recommended. The productive life of a currant bush is around 10-5yrs. If it is around this age you are better starting afresh. If the bush is young and overgrown you are better spreading the work over a couple of winters so as not to overstress the plant. First - they are easy to root from cuttings, so find a piece of new wood 8-10ins long, cut below a leaf joint and remove lower 2/3rds of leaves, take a spade, make a slit, put in some sand and insert cutting. Heel in and water keep moist over next year and you should have youself a new plant. Its easier starting from a new plant as you can train it yourself rather than try and restore, but it can be done. Red and whitecurrants are spur spruned, that is to say that the fruit comes on one year old wood so this wants to be incouraged. To do this you want to select around 8 -10 branches. Remove any old unhealthy looking wood. When you have finished pruning you are expecting to see just the main branches. I say that first so you don't feel worried about what you are removing. The pruning is basically removing any side branches to 3 buds - around an inch in length. then reduce the tips of the main branches by a couple of inches. Dead easy. There are many good books on the market, may I suggest the RHS encyclopedia of gardening - it costs around £5-10 +5.00 P&P on ebay and the fruit section is as good as the stand alone RHS fruit book If you want further advice, feel free to ask. The Northern Fruit Group run a course on renovating old fruit trees at Harlow Carr, Harrogate. The course is very popular and fills quickly, so book early when the RHS publish their Harrogate prospectus (available on the RHS web site). If you want any details, let me know and I will get it for you. The Northern Fruit Group are holding a Summer pruning workshop at RHS garden Harlow Carr, Harrogate on the 31st August from 10.30 - just costs regular garden admission Good luck Clifford Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
#3
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when to prune apple, pear, cherry trees & redcurrents
cliff_the_gardener wrote:
.....lots of good advice snipped.... As far as your redcurrant bushes go, if they have finished fruiting they can be pruned now. Winter pruning is generally recommended. The productive life of a currant bush is around 10-5yrs. ^^^^^^^^ did you mean 10-15years? I've always read this sort of figure in many books. But my 18 year old Goosegogs, Red & Black currants show no sign of flagging and produce as much as they did when they were 5 years old. Jim |
#4
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when to prune apple, pear, cherry trees & redcurrents
Jim did you mean 10-15years? Yes - Goosegogs can have a long productive life - up to 30 years apparently. You seem to be doing well with your currants - they seem to suffer as they get older Clifford Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire |
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