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New Veg Plot
Hello all, this is my first post and I would appreciate some advice please. I plan to start a veg plot. The soil has been under turf for years and I need to fertilise it but have read that one is not supposed to use manure, why is this? What should I use instead? Thank you in anticipation.........
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#3
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New Veg Plot
On Sep 24, 12:16*am, Carolyn
wrote: Hello all, this is my first post and I would appreciate some advice please. I plan to start a veg plot. The soil has been under turf for years and I need to fertilise it but have read that one is not supposed to use manure, why is this? What should I use instead? Thank you in anticipation......... Hullo. I'm surprised that your book advised you not to manure. I would think this advise came in the context of a new plot, like you described, which hasn't been digged and looked after. Weeds, stones and bricks, hard stems and whatnots need to be removed. You'll be surprise what you find underneath turf - I found a lovely collection of bits of old ceramic tiles which I've used to make a mosaic pattern ) Also, the advise you got is perhaps because you do not know what your soil is like. Different crops need different soil conditions and manure is very high in nitrogen: for example potatoes break down the soil ready for another crop which would not need any more feeding the following year. Some crop deplete the soil of nutrients. Rotating your beds will prevent pest and disease build up too. For your potatoes you ought to manure the previous autumn. Brassicas will need lime etc. Some crops don't like disturbance and will be in longer than others, like leeks for example. Make a plan of your plot and write down what you want to grow. Don't be too ambitious at first! You can do a 3 year, 4 year or even a 5 years, depending how big is your plot and how much you want to grow. Start with a simple 3 year rotation and see how you do. Potatoes are followed by roots and then it's brassicas and alliums (oinions, garlic). Courgettes, marrows, sweetcorns are planted wherever. Don't forget flowers, herbs, all good for pollinating insects and pests control. There's also companion planting which you ought to look at. Some crops don't like to grow next to others, whilst some will benefit growing together. For example carrots like growing next to rosemary, oinions family, sage etc. whilst beans don't like growing next to oinions. Once you've cleared your plot, and you can do this in sections, you can also use green manure, and now would be best to use phacellia or rye, You sow and let it grow till early spring and turn over the whole plant to enrich your soil. You can do this if you have empty plots over winter. Some people cover their grounds with carpet. I use cardboard and my own compost, which is low in nitrogen. It is more simple than it looks. But as Janet suggested, a good book about growing veg will help you understand the family of vegetables, to dig or not to dig, and the rest is entirely up to you. There's no rule except that you must enjoy it ) I'll recommend Organic Gardening by Lawrence Hill and Fruit and Vegetable from Seeds by Richard Gorer. Good luck! |
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New Veg Plot
On Sep 25, 3:42*am, Coffee's For Closers Usenet2...@THE-DOMAIN-
IN.SIG wrote: There's nothing wrong with manure. *Dump in right on. *The issue is if the manure is too fresh. *Some folks like it if it has sat around and mellowed for a few months or so. It is basically about the nitrogen level (don't want too much at once) and also letting any weed seeds die (apparently worse with fresh horse manure.) Personally, I use blood-and-bone meal, and pellitised sheep manure, both from my local hardware store. On NPK values, sheep manure has 0.7 N (nitrogen) for 0.9 K (potash) which is the highest potash content on all manure known, beside 'man manure', tho that doesn't me the later would have bigger value, I just don't know. Using blood and bone would rise your nitrogen to 12, which compared to manure is 0.6. The mix of sheep manure plus bonemeal raises your nitrogen really high, which is surprising given the advise. Maybe your garden needs it - but this is not for everybody's soil. I use lots of comfrey liquid, with the lowest of NPK - the liquid is taken immediately by the plant and I feel safer to then use manure or chicken pellets (every 2/3 years because of its nitrogen content) afterwards. |
#6
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New Veg Plot
On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:16:07 +0100, Carolyn
wrote: Hello all, this is my first post and I would appreciate some advice please. I plan to start a veg plot. The soil has been under turf for years and I need to fertilise it but have read that one is not supposed to use manure, why is this? What should I use instead? Thank you in anticipation......... Not related to manure, but if you haven't dug it yet, keep an eye open for wireworm or chafer grubs if non clay, or leatherjackets if clay. All of them are common in ex-grassland. They will also target potatoes. Dig and pick them out by hand. Let the birds find even more. If the soil is clay, try planting leeks early next year, their roots break clay up well. Some varieties will harvest in the summer giving you a chance to put somethingelse in afterwards. IMHO manure and compost are not great fertilizers. They do provide microbe life and water and nutrient holding capacity to soil. most veg are heavy feeders so will need packet fertilizer near to the sowing season and some a second dose. Manure or compost can go in now to let the worms spead it about for you. Horse manure can often be full of weed seeds, cow and chicken far far less. It's important to know that the manure doesn't come from animals who grazed on fields where certain chemicals were used. Other manure threads have info on this. Nigel |
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