Following on from previous observations about growing Buddleia in pots,
and lack of water.

This year (spring/summer) we had a prolonged period of rain, and the pots
seemed to flourish. I took this as a hint that in previous years they
hadn't had enough water.

Using the Buddleia as a guide to when to water, I have been giving a lot
more water to my other pots. They all seem to be having a bumper year
instead of just surviving. I am having to water in general at least once
per day if it doesn't rain.

This has also made me wonder about the Bougainvillea and lemon trees which
over-winter in the shade of the veranda. For the last couple of years they
have looked healthy all through the winter, but dropped their leaves in
spring and taken until early summer to get going properly. I am wondering
if I am being too cautious about watering them once the days become longer
and warmer.

Finally, just to restate my theory of "indicator weeds".

If you have a few weeds (free and easy to come by) or if you prefer, small
plants in your large pots they will react far more swiftly than the
established tree or shrub to lack of food or lack of water.

If the weeds look pale, feed the pot. If they droop, water the pot.

Finally, if the weeds look disgustingly healthy but the tree or shrub does
not then investigate further.

Cheers


Dave R


--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

On 26/07/16 11:30, David wrote:
Following on from previous observations about growing Buddleia in pots,
and lack of water.

This year (spring/summer) we had a prolonged period of rain, and the pots
seemed to flourish. I took this as a hint that in previous years they
hadn't had enough water.

Using the Buddleia as a guide to when to water, I have been giving a lot
more water to my other pots. They all seem to be having a bumper year
instead of just surviving. I am having to water in general at least once
per day if it doesn't rain.

This has also made me wonder about the Bougainvillea and lemon trees which
over-winter in the shade of the veranda. For the last couple of years they
have looked healthy all through the winter, but dropped their leaves in
spring and taken until early summer to get going properly. I am wondering
if I am being too cautious about watering them once the days become longer
and warmer.

Finally, just to restate my theory of "indicator weeds".

If you have a few weeds (free and easy to come by) or if you prefer, small
plants in your large pots they will react far more swiftly than the
established tree or shrub to lack of food or lack of water.

If the weeds look pale, feed the pot. If they droop, water the pot.

Finally, if the weeds look disgustingly healthy but the tree or shrub does
not then investigate further.

Cheers


Dave R

Although I won't dispute anything you have written, here are some other
possibilities to consider.

If the pot has dried out, and the compost has shrunk (particularly if it
is soilless), then watering can have little effect as the water will
just run down the inside of the pot and not wet the compost
sufficiently. It is useful to observe how quickly the water exits the
pots after it is applied. It may help to add some washing-up liquid to
the water as that will help it to penetrate the compost. It can also
help to stand the pot in a large saucer.

A similar problem can occur if the pot is infested with ants, but the
usual giveaway is piles of dry soil around the edge of the pot!

As to "indicator" weeds, they would help if they have a similar or
greater need for water than the pot plant. Those with lower water
requirements may mislead as to whether or not the main plant needs water.

Then you have to consider root pests such as vine weevil. It never
ceases to amaze me that they never seem to go for weeds, but only your
most prized plants in pots!

In fact, watching the weeds rather than the plant itself may leave you
with a situation in which it may be too late to save the plant itself.

Exhaustion of nutrients is another consideration, especially for plants
which haven't been repotted for years. Maybe also consider build-up of
salts in pots which have been watered for years with hard water. All
these can have negative effects, particularly on those plants which do
not like calcium.

Just to be contrary, I've got one window-box style container used for
annual colour which persists in getting its drainage holes blocked in
winter and spring. I have frequently found it up to the top in water
after rainy weather!

--

Jeff

In message , Jeff Layman
writes
It can also help to stand the pot in a large saucer.

The (larger - say 8" dia) black plastic containers which you get
ready-cooked microwave meals in can make excellent 'saucers' in which to
stand your (smaller) pots. [There are only so many you need to keep for
re-using to heat other food in - and although the plastic is Type 1, I'm
not sure if they are really appropriate for the plastics recycling bin.]


--
Ian

Jeff Layman wrote:

If the pot has dried out, and the compost has shrunk (particularly if
it is soilless), then watering can have little effect as the water
will just run down the inside of the pot and not wet the compost
sufficiently. It is useful to observe how quickly the water exits the
pots after it is applied. It may help to add some washing-up liquid to
the water as that will help it to penetrate the compost. It can also
help to stand the pot in a large saucer.


When my pots and planters get like this, I water sparingly at about 7pm,
then go over again an hour later and finally a good drenching late on, this
way, the first watering dampens the surface, the second penetrates a little
further and the final one is the only one that actually gets any real
moisture into the growing medium.

All my pots, baskets and planters have a home made reservoir of about two
inch - plastic sheet folded into a saucer shape at the bottom so this will
waterlog before overflowing and allowing drainage. Definately an improvement
on last year's inch

On 26/07/2016 13:45, Jeff Layman wrote:
If the pot has dried out, and the compost has shrunk (particularly if it
is soilless), then watering can have little effect as the water will
just run down the inside of the pot and not wet the compost
sufficiently. It is useful to observe how quickly the water exits the
pots after it is applied. It may help to add some washing-up liquid to
the water as that will help it to penetrate the compost. It can also
help to stand the pot in a large saucer.

Standing them in a bucket of water for half an hour will usually do the
trick.

Andy

Vir Campestris wrote:
On 26/07/2016 13:45, Jeff Layman wrote:
If the pot has dried out, and the compost has shrunk (particularly
if it is soilless), then watering can have little effect as the
water will just run down the inside of the pot and not wet the
compost sufficiently. It is useful to observe how quickly the water
exits the pots after it is applied. It may help to add some
washing-up liquid to the water as that will help it to penetrate the
compost. It can also help to stand the pot in a large saucer.

Standing them in a bucket of water for half an hour will usually do
the trick.

Andy

From experience I can confirm that it does. It's time consuming and messy
when you've got thirty-odd to do though...

On 26/07/2016 21:48, Phil L wrote:
Vir Campestris wrote:
On 26/07/2016 13:45, Jeff Layman wrote:
If the pot has dried out, and the compost has shrunk (particularly
if it is soilless), then watering can have little effect as the
water will just run down the inside of the pot and not wet the
compost sufficiently. It is useful to observe how quickly the water
exits the pots after it is applied. It may help to add some
washing-up liquid to the water as that will help it to penetrate the
compost. It can also help to stand the pot in a large saucer.

Standing them in a bucket of water for half an hour will usually do
the trick.

Andy

From experience I can confirm that it does. It's time consuming and messy
when you've got thirty-odd to do though...


This is the sort of place for water retaining polymer incorporated into
the compost http://www.agripol.co.uk/
Also as has been said a few drops of detergent acts as a wetting agent
and helps rehydrate dry compost.
David @ a yet again damp side of Swansea bay

On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 21:32:14 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote:

On 26/07/2016 13:45, Jeff Layman wrote:
If the pot has dried out, and the compost has shrunk (particularly if
it is soilless), then watering can have little effect as the water will
just run down the inside of the pot and not wet the compost
sufficiently. It is useful to observe how quickly the water exits the
pots after it is applied. It may help to add some washing-up liquid to
the water as that will help it to penetrate the compost. It can also
help to stand the pot in a large saucer.

Standing them in a bucket of water for half an hour will usually do the
trick.

Andy

I don't think I mentioned the size of the posts. :-)

One of the smaller ones (with a black bamboo in) is just about squeezed
into a builder's muck bucket to give it an extra soaking.

Some of the others are considerably larger.

I have a sack barrow for when I have to shift them about.

Cheers


Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box