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Old 20-10-2002, 04:50 PM
Peter Lewis
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

Ok. The lawn is in such a sorry state right now I'm at a bit of a loss.
The grass hasn't been cut for probably a couple of years and is pretty
sparse so that the soil is clearly visible. The grass that is left is
pretty long but flattened so mowing would be difficult. The soil is ok
(not clay or too rocky) as far as I can tell. There are quite a few pretty
tough clumps of grass dotted about and the area is fairly well drained (I
haven't seen it get waterlogged ever). The edges where it meets the border
have also become lost as the grass peters out.

Sorry for the ignorance, I'm pretty new at this.

Thanks,

Pete.


than grass which is about a foot or so in length

On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 15:08:33 +0100, Emrys Davies wrote:

'Peter',

You have not described the state of your lawn, the soil, drainage and
whether there are lots of bare patches, that it is full of weeds or that
the grass has not been cut for a long while. You do mention overgrown
but with what and to what extent?

Cutting it back to bare soil before the winter or leaving it to die off
are definitely not options which you should pursue but once you have
given a fuller picture I am sure that you will get plenty of good
advice.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.




"Peter Lewis" wrote in message
newsan.2002.10.20.12.55.06.952836@NOSPAMflamingc amel.co.uk...
Hello there,

Since movng into my house about a year ago, I've decided it's finally

time
to do something with my garden.... I've been putting it off for so

long
now and I'm afraid the job has become much bigger than it should have
been! The "lawn" is fairly overgrown but never having had to maintain a
lawn before, I'm looking for a bit of advice.

I've raked it over a bit to get rid of the dead stuff and I've been
advised that I should resow it in the spring. Would I be better off to

try
and cut it right back to pretty much bare soil before the winter or

leave
it to die off? Will that make more work in the spring? Any other

related
advice would also be much appreciated. I've read the Lawns

FAQ -thanks!

Peter Lewis,
Leicester, UK.

  #2   Report Post  
Old 20-10-2002, 08:30 PM
Emrys Davies
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

'Peter',

Best if you hire an industrial strimmer or the like and get rid of all
of the overgrown grass down to about an inch or so. Then, in the
spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed fertilizer. Give it
regular mowings, water during dry spells, and you will be amazed how
quickly your lawn will recover itself and start to look good again.

When the grass is under control you could re-mark your borders by using
a hosepipe as a guide and in that way you can have nice scalloped edges
of your choice and widish borders in which you can plant shrubs,
perennials, small conifers, annuals and even a small tree or two.

This site will give you some ideas:

http://tinyurl.com/23io (Best to go to Landscaping|
Garden Plans).

I wish you luck.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.






"Peter Lewis" wrote in message
newsan.2002.10.20.14.58.08.446606@NOSPAMflamingc amel.co.uk...
Ok. The lawn is in such a sorry state right now I'm at a bit of a

loss.
The grass hasn't been cut for probably a couple of years and is pretty
sparse so that the soil is clearly visible. The grass that is left is
pretty long but flattened so mowing would be difficult. The soil is ok
(not clay or too rocky) as far as I can tell. There are quite a few

pretty
tough clumps of grass dotted about and the area is fairly well drained

(I
haven't seen it get waterlogged ever). The edges where it meets the

border
have also become lost as the grass peters out.

Sorry for the ignorance, I'm pretty new at this.

Thanks,

Pete.


On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 15:08:33 +0100, Emrys Davies wrote:

'Peter',

You have not described the state of your lawn, the soil, drainage

and
whether there are lots of bare patches, that it is full of weeds or

that
the grass has not been cut for a long while. You do mention

overgrown
but with what and to what extent?

Cutting it back to bare soil before the winter or leaving it to die

off
are definitely not options which you should pursue but once you have
given a fuller picture I am sure that you will get plenty of good
advice.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.




"Peter Lewis" wrote in message
newsan.2002.10.20.12.55.06.952836@NOSPAMflamingc amel.co.uk...
Hello there,

Since movng into my house about a year ago, I've decided it's

finally
time
to do something with my garden.... I've been putting it off for so

long
now and I'm afraid the job has become much bigger than it should

have
been! The "lawn" is fairly overgrown but never having had to
maintain a lawn before, I'm looking for a bit of advice.

I've raked it over a bit to get rid of the dead stuff and I've been
advised that I should resow it in the spring. Would I be better off

to
try
and cut it right back to pretty much bare soil before the winter or

leave
it to die off? Will that make more work in the spring? Any other

related
advice would also be much appreciated. I've read the Lawns

FAQ -thanks!

Peter Lewis,
Leicester, UK.




  #3   Report Post  
Old 20-10-2002, 11:11 PM
Tim Knowles
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

Peter.

Weather will play quite a part in what you decide to do about your
lawn.
If we have a dry/mild spell would suggest you cut the lawn (if very
long) Hire from your local hire shop a turf remover (you need dryish
conditions). Remove the turf, high a rotavator, rotavate well, rake
and rake and rake to fine tilth, use some growmore and then relay
having bought new turf. With some planning 30sq yards with hard work
could be done in a day. Ensure does not stay dry (ie water if we don't
get normal autumn winter weather) Keep off over winter and in the
Spring you should be ready for first mow and have a good lawn next
summer.Preparation is the key. If weather lousy do this in late March
early April weather permitting. Turn the removed turf and leave
'upside down on your borders to rot down over Winter.

That is probably most expensive remedy but the Rolls Royce.

Good luck Tim

"Peter Lewis" wrote in message news:pan.2002.10.20.14.58.08.446606@NOSPAMflaming camel.co.uk...
Ok. The lawn is in such a sorry state right now I'm at a bit of a loss.
The grass hasn't been cut for probably a couple of years and is pretty
sparse so that the soil is clearly visible. The grass that is left is
pretty long but flattened so mowing would be difficult. The soil is ok
(not clay or too rocky) as far as I can tell. There are quite a few pretty
tough clumps of grass dotted about and the area is fairly well drained (I
haven't seen it get waterlogged ever). The edges where it meets the border
have also become lost as the grass peters out.

Sorry for the ignorance, I'm pretty new at this.

Thanks,

Pete.


On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 15:08:33 +0100, Emrys Davies wrote:

'Peter',

You have not described the state of your lawn, the soil, drainage and
whether there are lots of bare patches, that it is full of weeds or that
the grass has not been cut for a long while. You do mention overgrown
but with what and to what extent?

Cutting it back to bare soil before the winter or leaving it to die off
are definitely not options which you should pursue but once you have
given a fuller picture I am sure that you will get plenty of good
advice.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.




"Peter Lewis" wrote in message
newsan.2002.10.20.12.55.06.952836@NOSPAMflamingc amel.co.uk...
Hello there,

Since movng into my house about a year ago, I've decided it's finally

time
to do something with my garden.... I've been putting it off for so

long
now and I'm afraid the job has become much bigger than it should have
been! The "lawn" is fairly overgrown but never having had to
maintain a lawn before, I'm looking for a bit of advice.

I've raked it over a bit to get rid of the dead stuff and I've been
advised that I should resow it in the spring. Would I be better off to

try
and cut it right back to pretty much bare soil before the winter or

leave
it to die off? Will that make more work in the spring? Any other

related
advice would also be much appreciated. I've read the Lawns

FAQ -thanks!

Peter Lewis,
Leicester, UK.

  #4   Report Post  
Old 21-10-2002, 12:03 AM
cormaic
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

'Twas Sun, 20 Oct 2002 15:58:08 +0100, when "Peter Lewis"
enriched all our lives with these
worthy thoughts:

Ok. The lawn is in such a sorry state right now I'm at a bit of a loss.
The grass hasn't been cut for probably a couple of years and is pretty
sparse so that the soil is clearly visible. The grass that is left is
pretty long but flattened so mowing would be difficult. The soil is ok
(not clay or too rocky) as far as I can tell. There are quite a few pretty
tough clumps of grass dotted about and the area is fairly well drained (I
haven't seen it get waterlogged ever). The edges where it meets the border
have also become lost as the grass peters out.


Sounds like a candidate for starting again, depending on the
quality of lawn you're after. It can take a couple of years to get a
crappy lawn knocked into shape, whereas you can seed or turf a good
lawn in 3 months, come next spring.
If I were starting over, I'd scythe it now and turn it over or
rotavate to let the weather work on it over the winter, then start
preparing a tilth next Feb/Mar for seeding or turfing in late March.

--
cormaic URG faqs/webring - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/urgring/
Culcheth Garden - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/garden/
Warrington Paving - www.pavingexpert.com/
Peoples' Republic of South Lancashire

cormaic CAN BE FOUND AT borlochshall.co.uk
  #5   Report Post  
Old 21-10-2002, 01:26 AM
Steve
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.


"Peter Lewis" wrote in message
newsan.2002.10.20.14.58.08.446606@NOSPAMflamingc amel.co.uk...
Ok. The lawn is in such a sorry state right now I'm at a bit of a loss.
The grass hasn't been cut for probably a couple of years and is pretty
sparse so that the soil is clearly visible. The grass that is left is
pretty long but flattened so mowing would be difficult.


Cut it, scarify it, aereate it [1], treat with phosphate-based
fertiliser[2], and re-seed.

[1] Stick a garden fork into it, to a depth of about 6 inches, and waggle it
to enlarge the holes. Do this all over the lawn. It loosens the soil after
years of compaction, and so gives the grass roots an easier time.
[2] Phosphate-based fertilisers are for autumn use. They encourage good
root-growth.

You could re-seed it now and see what happens, but you're more sure of good
results if you do it next spring.




  #6   Report Post  
Old 21-10-2002, 02:58 AM
Rodger Whitlock
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:30:27 +0100, " Emrys Davies"
wrote:

Best if you hire an industrial strimmer or the like and get rid of all
of the overgrown grass down to about an inch or so. Then, in the
spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed fertilizer. Give it
regular mowings, water during dry spells, and you will be amazed how
quickly your lawn will recover itself and start to look good again.

When the grass is under control you could re-mark your borders by using
a hosepipe as a guide and in that way you can have nice scalloped edges
of your choice and widish borders in which you can plant shrubs,
perennials, small conifers, annuals and even a small tree or two.


The advantage of this method is that the wild and feral grasses
making up your newly revived lawn will be species that are
especially well adapted to your particular combination of soil,
climate, and maintenance regime. Wild grasses will usually take
over your lawn eventually, no matter what you do, so you might as
well encourage them from the start. Doing so avoids a lot of
unnecessary expense and worry, to say nothing of the heartbreak
of having an unfashionable lawn.


--
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
  #7   Report Post  
Old 27-10-2002, 06:48 PM
Norman Tulloch
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2002 18:21:03 +0000, Peter Lewis
wrote:


On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:30:27 +0100, " Emrys Davies"
wrote:

Best if you hire an industrial strimmer or the like and get rid of all
of the overgrown grass down to about an inch or so. Then, in the
spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed fertilizer. Give it
regular mowings, water during dry spells, and you will be amazed how
quickly your lawn will recover itself and start to look good again.

When the grass is under control you could re-mark your borders by using
a hosepipe as a guide and in that way you can have nice scalloped edges
of your choice and widish borders in which you can plant shrubs,
perennials, small conifers, annuals and even a small tree or two.


The advantage of this method is that the wild and feral grasses
making up your newly revived lawn will be species that are
especially well adapted to your particular combination of soil,
climate, and maintenance regime. Wild grasses will usually take
over your lawn eventually, no matter what you do, so you might as
well encourage them from the start. Doing so avoids a lot of
unnecessary expense and worry, to say nothing of the heartbreak
of having an unfashionable lawn.


Thanks folks.

I've bought a strimmer which (after some fun!) managed to cut most of it
down. Next weekend I'm planning to give it some feed/fertilizer and see how
it copes. I'm not in a rush, so next spring, if it really doesn't look like
it's improving, I'll go for the 'start again' method!

Cheers.

Pete.


You'd be wasting your time and money if you put fertiliser on your
lawn now. It would just get washed away by the winter rains. Note
what Emrys actually wrote:

"Then, in the spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed
fertilizer."

You say you're not in a rush. Well, next year follow Emrys's advice
(as contained in the first two paragraphs quoted above) right through
next spring, summer and autumn and THEN judge whether your lawn has
improved. You are highly unlikely to see any improvement between now
and next spring -- in fact, probably the opposite.

Norman Tulloch

  #8   Report Post  
Old 27-10-2002, 07:21 PM
Peter Lewis
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

Rodger Whitlock put thought into words and said:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:30:27 +0100, " Emrys Davies"
wrote:

Best if you hire an industrial strimmer or the like and get rid of all
of the overgrown grass down to about an inch or so. Then, in the
spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed fertilizer. Give it
regular mowings, water during dry spells, and you will be amazed how
quickly your lawn will recover itself and start to look good again.

When the grass is under control you could re-mark your borders by using
a hosepipe as a guide and in that way you can have nice scalloped edges
of your choice and widish borders in which you can plant shrubs,
perennials, small conifers, annuals and even a small tree or two.


The advantage of this method is that the wild and feral grasses
making up your newly revived lawn will be species that are
especially well adapted to your particular combination of soil,
climate, and maintenance regime. Wild grasses will usually take
over your lawn eventually, no matter what you do, so you might as
well encourage them from the start. Doing so avoids a lot of
unnecessary expense and worry, to say nothing of the heartbreak
of having an unfashionable lawn.


Thanks folks.

I've bought a strimmer which (after some fun!) managed to cut most of it
down. Next weekend I'm planning to give it some feed/fertilizer and see how
it copes. I'm not in a rush, so next spring, if it really doesn't look like
it's improving, I'll go for the 'start again' method!

Cheers.

Pete.

  #9   Report Post  
Old 28-10-2002, 03:41 PM
hugh
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

In article , Peter
Lewis writes
Rodger Whitlock put thought into words and said:

On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:30:27 +0100, " Emrys Davies"
wrote:

Best if you hire an industrial strimmer or the like and get rid of all
of the overgrown grass down to about an inch or so. Then, in the
spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed fertilizer. Give it
regular mowings, water during dry spells, and you will be amazed how
quickly your lawn will recover itself and start to look good again.

When the grass is under control you could re-mark your borders by using
a hosepipe as a guide and in that way you can have nice scalloped edges
of your choice and widish borders in which you can plant shrubs,
perennials, small conifers, annuals and even a small tree or two.


The advantage of this method is that the wild and feral grasses
making up your newly revived lawn will be species that are
especially well adapted to your particular combination of soil,
climate, and maintenance regime. Wild grasses will usually take
over your lawn eventually, no matter what you do, so you might as
well encourage them from the start. Doing so avoids a lot of
unnecessary expense and worry, to say nothing of the heartbreak
of having an unfashionable lawn.


Thanks folks.

I've bought a strimmer which (after some fun!) managed to cut most of it
down. Next weekend I'm planning to give it some feed/fertilizer and see how
it copes. I'm not in a rush, so next spring, if it really doesn't look like
it's improving, I'll go for the 'start again' method!

Cheers.

Pete.

The last thing you want to do now is feed it with standard fertilizer.
You could give it *autumn* fertilizer which is lower in nitrogen ,
higher in phosphates and potash and is intended to stimulate root growth
over the winter.
--
hugh
  #10   Report Post  
Old 09-11-2002, 12:45 PM
Peter Lewis
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

Norman Tulloch put thought into words and said:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2002 18:21:03 +0000, Peter Lewis
wrote:


On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 19:30:27 +0100, " Emrys Davies"
wrote:

Best if you hire an industrial strimmer or the like and get rid of all
of the overgrown grass down to about an inch or so. Then, in the
spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed fertilizer. Give it
regular mowings, water during dry spells, and you will be amazed how
quickly your lawn will recover itself and start to look good again.

When the grass is under control you could re-mark your borders by using
a hosepipe as a guide and in that way you can have nice scalloped edges
of your choice and widish borders in which you can plant shrubs,
perennials, small conifers, annuals and even a small tree or two.

The advantage of this method is that the wild and feral grasses
making up your newly revived lawn will be species that are
especially well adapted to your particular combination of soil,
climate, and maintenance regime. Wild grasses will usually take
over your lawn eventually, no matter what you do, so you might as
well encourage them from the start. Doing so avoids a lot of
unnecessary expense and worry, to say nothing of the heartbreak
of having an unfashionable lawn.


Thanks folks.

I've bought a strimmer which (after some fun!) managed to cut most of it
down. Next weekend I'm planning to give it some feed/fertilizer and see
how it copes. I'm not in a rush, so next spring, if it really doesn't look
like it's improving, I'll go for the 'start again' method!

Cheers.

Pete.


You'd be wasting your time and money if you put fertiliser on your
lawn now. It would just get washed away by the winter rains. Note
what Emrys actually wrote:

"Then, in the spring, treat the lawn to a good weed and feed
fertilizer."

You say you're not in a rush. Well, next year follow Emrys's advice
(as contained in the first two paragraphs quoted above) right through
next spring, summer and autumn and THEN judge whether your lawn has
improved. You are highly unlikely to see any improvement between now
and next spring -- in fact, probably the opposite.

Norman Tulloch


So what would the autumn fertilizer do? I seem to have conflicting advice as
to whether it would be worth it or not...


  #11   Report Post  
Old 09-11-2002, 05:16 PM
Norman Tulloch
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

On Sat, 09 Nov 2002 11:45:07 +0000, Peter Lewis
wrote:

Norman Tulloch put thought into words and said:

You'd be wasting your time and money if you put fertiliser on your
lawn now. It would just get washed away by the winter rains. Note
what Emrys actually wrote:



So what would the autumn fertilizer do? I seem to have conflicting advice as
to whether it would be worth it or not...



I think it's just too late for the autumn fertiliser now. I would
apply that in September or early to mid October; I feel that now we're
on the edge of winter, or perhaps we're already there. Though the
autumn fertiliser is high in potash rather than nitrogen, it would
still encourage your grass to grow more quickly, and if your weather
conditions are anything like those we experience here, you will
probably find your lawn will be too wet to cut easily.

I think the best thing you can do now is to give your lawn and
yourself a rest, though you may still have to keep it clear of fallen
leaves if, as I am, you're close to trees.

Norman Tulloch

  #12   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2002, 09:25 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.


What types of grass is the most widely used in the UK?

From watching Ground Force here in the states, it appears to be a short
fine bladed variety. Similiar to a bent grass fairway golf course here.

I have also heard that the UK does not have a climate similar to any
region in the states. Would this be true? If not how would you
describe it?

--
Thank you,

Craig
do not use Rejector email address
  #14   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2002, 09:57 PM
DaveDay34
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

What types of grass is the most widely used in the UK?

From watching Ground Force here in the states, it appears to be a short
fine bladed variety. Similiar to a bent grass fairway golf course here.

I have also heard that the UK does not have a climate similar to any
region in the states. Would this be true? If not how would you
describe it?

--
Thank you,

Craig


There are too many grasses used in the UK to really answer your question. Many
grasses use a mix of several varieties to give the best all-round results.
This usually means mixing in fine grasses with rye grass. The rye grass is
hard wearing and is used in amenity lawns/grassed areas such as parks and
public spaces. It is course and doesn't give the best result visually, but
stands up well to a large amount of pedestrian traffic.

If you're serious about getting the best lawn in the UK you can send soil
samples away for testing, and give your location, local climate, aspect, etc.
and you will get a specialist company mix you up the ideal grass seed mix for
your conditions. Most people just go to a garden centre though and wil pick
out a luxury lawn seed without rye grass.

As far as the weather is concerned, I think you'll find that the spring in the
UK often comes earlier, and the winter comes later. The winter is often
warmer, while the summers wetter and not so hot. This is a huge generalisation
and I know I'll get all sorts of people saying that California is warmer in the
winter than the UK, or similar such things, but the bottom line is that where
the summers are as cool and wet as the UK the winters are often colder, and
where the winters are as mild as in some parts of the UK the summers are much
hotter. Having said that there are huge differences in weather across the UK
with regards to rainfall, sunlight, and overall temperatures, so maybe I'm
wasting my time with trying to give you any kind of an answer at all. Maybe
I'm just inviting anyone and everyone to give me a huge amount of grief about
the weather.

Anyway, I hope this helps, though I doubt it will very much.

Dave.
  #15   Report Post  
Old 25-11-2002, 10:31 PM
Kay Easton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Lawn rejuvenation.

In article ,
writes

What types of grass is the most widely used in the UK?

From watching Ground Force here in the states, it appears to be a short
fine bladed variety. Similiar to a bent grass fairway golf course here.

I have also heard that the UK does not have a climate similar to any
region in the states. Would this be true? If not how would you
describe it?

'Other places have climate - we have weather' ;-)

- reflection on the changeability of our weather - which is probably
why we talk about it so much.

I'm about half way up the UK, inland. Winters are wet, with long nights
- it gets dark about 4pm and isn't properly light again till 9am. It can
be a few degrees above freezing and foggy (like today) or wet (like
tomorrow's forecast) or it can be a few degrees below freezing. First
frost is usually the first week of October, last frost may be as late as
the first week of June.

Summers have long days - light before I wake up, and still light until
9pm or 10pm. It can be hot - up to 80F - or warm or coolish.

Spring and autumn can be almost anything.

We get about 30 inches of rain a year, spread almost evenly throughout
the year (the SE has drier summer, some areas in the west have much more
rain) - though in recent years we seem to be getting more rain than
usually, and milder winters.

What makes our climate so different from yours is the Gulf Stream, which
means we are a lot warmer than we have any right to expect for this
latitude. Which means our cold winter nights last a lot longer than
winter nights of similar coldness over there.


--
Kay Easton

Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/garden/
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