On Wed, 07 May 2003 02:59:59 GMT, "SlimFlem"
wrote:
On the Python, I just run the water from the tap to the tank and add
the water conditioner to the tank. I don't get anal about the
temperature. If it's close I fill the tank. Swings in temperature
happen all the time in the wild. They are called rain storms. So
long as you are not dropping the temperature 10 degrees you are fine.
Any measurable nitrites are bad. Your filter is either overloaded
or your tank is still cycling.
For the lights turn off two of the bulbs.
CO2 can be done quite nicely. If you get a cylinder/regulator combo
that fits in your stand you will have nothing in the tank. You can
build a reactor that will plumb right into the out-flow line of your
cannister filter. The parts you need are a cylinder, regulator,
needle valve, and reactor.
LeighMo, so you are saying since I match at the lowest testable level on my
Nitrite test, I have too much Nitrite?...so any measureable amount of
Nitrite is bad?? I thought my Eheim 2028 with 2 trays of ceramic and 1 tray
of efimech would supply more than enough bio life for the tank. what are
your thoughts? i will add some more plants. I like the open look and lots
of free swimming room for the fish, but i know it does need a few more.
I have a couple of options for reducing the light. I can either:
1) turn off 2 of the 65w bulbs
2) leave both on, but reduce the number of hours
3) reduce the amount of time the second set of lights comes on
what would be best? i know my Vals and Sags will slow their growth way down
if they don't get lots of light. Maybe it's best to leave both sets of
lights coming on, but reduce the number of hours. Opinions? i have reset
my timers for about 9.5 - 10 hours instead of the 12.5 - 13 it was on when
the DIY CO2 was going. I really didn't like the whole DIY difusser thing in
the tank and dealing with the yeast. Can a compressed system be kept to
look decent and not have a bunch of bulky crap in the tank? does anyone
have pictures of their compressed setups?
thanks.
Semper Fi!
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