wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 May 2004 01:09:12 GMT, GFRfan wrote:
Peter H wrote:
"GFRfan" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hi Everyone,
Today is Monday, I mowed on Friday, and everyone else around me mowed
in the last 3 days also. My yard looks overgrown compared to my
neighbors already. Am I mowing too high?
Types of grass: blue grass, Tall Fescue, and perenial rye.
I cut at 3" to 3-1/2"
Thanks for the feedback, please post your replies here.
later,
tom
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I don't know where you are or how short your neighbors cut their lawn
but for an answer, in July, look at your lawn and then look at your
neighbors lawn. That will be your answer. I'm betting yours will look a
lot healthier. Most people cut their lawn way too short and then rely
on
chemicals to control weeds. With the longer lawn, you smother most
weeds
and shade the ground, which also helps keep the roots cooler and
conserves moisture. 2" is my minimum but 3" to 3 1/2" is not
unreasonable in my area.
--
Yard and Garden Handyman
I respectfully disagree. With your type of grass the shorter you cut
it, to
a degree at least, the more grass plants you will get per square foot
and
the thicker your lawn will get. Kentucky Bluegrass seems to do best at
about
1 1/2".
When I first got into the business, about 15 years ago, I chanted the
same
old mantra that everyone else did. Cut your grass longer, water less
frequently but deeper, aerate annually, mulch your clippings. What I
found
was that a longer lawn will encourage a thinner lawn and insect and
disease
growth as well. I ended up with only a few recommendations.
- only cut 1/3 of the blade each time you cut
- water sparingly, if at all and water in the early morning
- ALWAYS suspect an insect when your lawn is suffering
- only fertilize in the spring and fall, never in the summer
- cut it a wee bit shorter for the last cut of the year
- blanket spray the weeds at 1/2 the recommended rate twice a year,
once
in spring and once in the fall.
That's my perspective anyway.
Peter H
I'm curious. I think I'll try your way on part of my land and see if it
is better.
I agree on the cutting of 1/3 of the blade, fertilizing only in spring
and fall (to avoid burn) and cutting it shorter for the winter. I still
think 1 1/2 inches is too short but I'll find out if you're right. I'll
post back the results in a year. Always open to different ideas. Thanks.
I too have a problem with the 1-1/2" height thing, enough that I don't
think I'll experiment with that. But the rest makes sense.
In scotts 4 step there is a summer guard step, why would you not fert
in the summer?
tom
The grasses you are growing are what are considered to be "cool-season
turfgrasses". These varieties only want to grow when the temperature is from
about 50 degrees to 80F or thereabouts. If it gets any warmer they try to
shut down and go dormant. You can, of course, force them to grow through the
heat of the summer by fertilizing and/or watering them, but there is a down
side. You set them up for disease infestation.
Homeowners with sprinkler systems are the most susceptible. When I was in
the business I used to cringe when I was quoting a lawn with a sprinkler
system, particularly if I knew the owner was a real keener.
Peter H