Most of those will do best attached to driftwood or rocks. The anubias may
be planted but only if the rhyzome is about 1/2" above the gravel so you can
sink the roots but not the stem-like part the roots emerge from. The
barteria and "show" may be too large for your tank now or later, so begin
planning a second tank after you get this one under control.
Java fern goes on wood or rock, best if the roots are in higher flow area,
IME. The blobitis I have not grown for I think it will not like my
moderately hard water with high pH. The crypt is a rooted plant and
appreciates root fertilizers typically, but I've not had that particular
one. If your water or light is much different than where it came from it
will rapidly melt away only to return from the root with leaves more suited
to the new situation. So, put it in one place and leave it alone. I don't
know how big that one gets, book says up to 60 cm tall and acid water.

I'd add CO2, particularly if the water is above 7 pH, a Hagen CO2 system is
ideal for that, or if the pH is OK, try Seachem Excel for added Carbon.
After the plants have grown in to your liking, then reduce the CO2 or carbon
or ferts to see if they will maintain with less work and no algae. In any
case, do not add water column fertilizers until the plants seem to need it,
for algae will quickly move in if you add it prematurely.




"Paul Wright" wrote in message
m...
Another question folks:

I just bought an assortment of "low light" plants from an aquatic
plant vendor. The order includes:

2 Anubias Barteri Reg

2 Anubias Nana Reg

2 Java Fern

2 Bolbitis Heudelotii

2 Cryptocoryne Blassi

1 Anubias Show

This assortment was labeled as "low light" by the vendor. I want to
add these to a 10 gal. tank with a 15 watt fluorescent bulb that
produces wavelengths of light optimal for plant growth (not sure of
the brand). Are these plants difficult to maintain in these
conditions? Just just wondering what to expect. Many thanks in advance
for your help.

Paul Wright