Thanks again,
Maybe I'll do both...cut back some of the scragglier canes that don't do too
much anyway now and 40-50% after bloom. I assume the Epson salts are
applied in a solution. Is one application enough, or is there a schedule?
There also seems to be a pest invasion after bloom. Little green worms
about 1/4 inch long on leaf bottoms.
Any ideas for greenest yet effective control there?
--
All the Best,
Richard Harison

"Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote in message
et...
Sorry for that poorly worded message, I hate it when I hit the send button
too soon.

When you prune it all depends on if you want any blooms this year. If you
really want to move the plant along, trim it now. But if you do, you'll
loose the blooms from the old wood you cut away. In general, you don't
prune non repeaters until after they bloom, as they bloom on old wood, so
cutting any way will reduce the cane available for blooming. Sometimes
its worth losing a year of blooms, and if that's the case, go for it now.
It the long run, it won't make a big difference. Just be sure to feed and
water it to promote cane development, and try the Epson salts.

Best Regards

Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5


"Richard Harison" wrote in message
...
Thanks Jeffrey,
Some did say that March was the best time since the bush is still
"sleeping"
Any thoughts there?
By 1/3 I meant 1/3 of all canes--right to the ground
And yes---it is a non-repeater
Thanks again

--
All the Best,
Richard Harison

"Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote in message
et...
Harison's Yellow comes from the Rosa foetida class, which are the origin
of most modern yellow roses. Very cool. It is, as far as I know, a
non-repeater, which often blooms on old wood. If you want to develop
new basal breaks, (canes from the base) old will need to cut back the
old wood, which may limit the bloom for a year.

Unless you don't care if you get any blooms this year, I would wait
until after it blooms this year, so you can get all to blooming
possible, then remove 50% of the old wood, to the ground. The rest I
would cut back some, but keep foliage, so you don't end up with bare
sticks! Put some Epson salt (about 1/4 cup) around the base (soon would
be good) to help promote new basal breaks. Next year, do the same
thing, cut back 50 % for the remaining old wood, until, after several
years, you've turned over tall of the canes.

The cut 1/3 stuff is more for hybrid teas. I agree, new


"Richard Harison" wrote in message
...
I have a 17 year old Harison's Yellow which stands about 5' high.
Problem: all the growth is at the top 1' leaving 4' canes, some 3/4"
thick.
I would like to encourage new growth from new canes, so that the plant
appears denser
Some say cut 1/3 or so back to the ground
Some say new canes will not bloom (at least in first year)
Some saw they do not respond well to pruning at all--leave it alone
Most who favor pruning say late winter is the time to do it
Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks

P.S. You are not seeing things, a am a direct descendant of the rose's
breeder
I know more of its history than cultivation!

--
All the Best,
Richard Harison






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