Thrips are primarily attracted to the buds of light colored varieties just
as the sepals began to 'crack' and the bud displays some color.

Most any insecticide is effective. My program is to use a
hand held pump type spray bottle and spray JUST the
buds. If you can eliminate the thrips just as they are attracted to the
light colors it is not necessary to douse the entire garden with an
insecticide.

Aphids are sucking insects that are almost always found on the new, tender
growth. Although you can use an insecticide, they can usually be washed off
with a strong spray of water. If you chose to use an insecticide, most any
broad spectrum product is effective.

Spider mites are NOT an insect and are not usually controlled with
insecticides. They tend to be near the ground on the lower leaves and
usually on the underside of the leaves.

Black spot is usually found on older growth, once it is established the goal
is to prevent further spread, it is NOT
eliminated by a fungicide.

Please keep in mind that there are MANY beneficial insects that are also
killed by the broad spectrum insecticides. I prefer NOT to douse the garden
as it eliminated the beneficial.

If you are observant and use preventative measures it is usually not
necessary to spray the entire garden with the broad spectrum products.

Tim

"Shiva" wrote in message
news:aHlwYXRpYQ==.5af854ab6672910298712aa1ab24ec57 @1049495235.cotse.net...
I was given a bottle of Cygon because a friend heard me complaining about
how thrips ruin my light-colored blooms.

I went to the Cornell site to read about it, so I am well aware of its
toxicity, etc. Here is the site for anyone interested:

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/insect-mite/ddt-
famphur/dimethoate/insect-prof-dimethoate.html

Two questions:

1. Is anyone here using this for thrips, spider mites, or anything else?
Here is what the site says it kills: "Aphids, mites, codling moths,
grasshoppers, plum curculio, pear psylla, scale, leafhoppers, thrips,
loopers,Drosophila, lygus bugs, leafminers, flies, olive flies,
whiteflies,
Hassids, houseflies and many others (8a) Effective against many insect
larvae. Moves throughout the plant rapidly. Relatively slow acting
against houseflies but with up to 8 weeks residual control. Used to
control fly maggots in manure piles." Sounds pretty good to me.

2. If I use it, how do I incorporate it into my spray program, which is
simply Orthenex every ten days. Should I use just fungicide, perhaps
Funginex or Immunox or the Daconil-based Fertilome fungicide? Can these
things be mixed, or must I spray them separately?

My current, simple routine leaves me with marginal blackspot, loads of
thrips, a few aphids, and just a few Japanese Beetles. Should I leave well
enough alone, or try the Cygon? I use a respirator, gloves, eye
protectors, and protective clothing when I spray, and no pets are allowed
in my fenced yard so that is not a concern. Thanks.