Ulysses wrote:
"Ulysses" wrote in message
...
"Brandon McCombs" wrote in message
.com...
Stubby wrote:
On Apr 28, 12:08 am, Brandon McCombs wrote:
Art wrote:
Brandon McCombs wrote:
Hello,
I was recently given a lawnmower with a Briggs/Stratton 6.5HP
motor.
I
was told it might need tuned because it hadn't been run for about 5
years. When I first put gas in it I noticed it started to leak the
fuel behind the primer button. That was on Friday night. Saturday
when
I tried it again by putting more fuel in it the leaks didn't
reappear
but after priming the engine started but would immediately stop. As
long as I had someone continuously press the primer button the
engine
continued to run just fine.
So the spark plug was working, fuel line was clear, etc. Today I
took
apart the carb except for the float bowl that housed fuel near
where
the primer button is located. I attempted to take that component
apart
as well but couldn't get the nut on the bottom loosened. So I just
cleaned the carb as best as I could but I didn't see anything
clogged
and my cleaning was mainly done for aesthetics. Short of taking the
mower to a pro for maintenance can anyone tell me something that
could
put me on the right track to fixing it myself? Everything I read
online made it sound like it was a carb issue but I didn't find any
problems unless they were in the float bowl that I didn't take
apart.
The advice I found said there would be a pin/screw with a pinhole
in
it from where the fuel would be ejected and that it was probably
clogged thus preventing normal flow of fuel. But I never found
anything like that in my carb. The place where it looked like fuel
was
inserted was more like a tube sticking straight up and I couldn't
get
to it since it was above the area I didn't take apart. Since that
small tube was inside the primer button component I couldn't look
in
it to see if it was clogged.
For anyone who happens to have (or wants to download) the parts
list
for my B&S engine, the model is 121602-0190-E1. It is an Intek, not
the Quantum type. Oddly enough, looking at the owner's manual both
types are supposed to have a Safety Key but mine doesn't have that.
I
was working off page 4 of the parts list PDF file to determine the
names of the parts I was working with today. Part #975 is the float
bowl and part #134 I think is the small "tube" that fuel comes out
of
when operational. What are the odds that is clogged and that
priming
the engine constantly would help work around that particular
problem?
This mower has a bag also. The bags aren't required to be on for
the
mower to work are they? As you can tell my knowledge of mowers is
slim
to none. I'm a recent first time home buyer so I'm learning.
Any ideas?
thanks
Brandon
You need to get the float bowl off and clean it out along with the
main
jet. If the nut will not come off then you'll need to replace the
carb.
OK. I'll target the float bowl next time I work on it. Figures that
the
part that I didn't look at in-depth is the thing that is most likely
the
problem. If this doesn't work I may just buy a carb kit but if
cleaning
the float bowl and the main jet don't do it then maybe there are
bigger
problems which a new carb won't fix. If I'm lucky I won't work too
late
on Tuesday and I can try it again and report back in a timely manner.
I'm in the US Damian so I prefer to not call international if I can
help it.
thanks guys for the quick responses.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
After installing the replacment float, be certain to set the drop just
right. As I recall the rebuild kit has a little cardboard gauge that
will help you adjust the tab that activates the needle valve.
I took apart the float bowl of my lawnmower. The needle-size hole in the
bolt keeping the float bowl together was crusted up so I ran a paper
clip through it to clean it. It is wide open now. I also ran the paper
clip up into the main jet but it was clean. I put everything back
together but the mower still stalls unless continuously primed. Could
the float be screwed up and need replacing? What else could be causing
the mower to stall? Should I get a new spark plug?
thanks
Can you see the choke by removing the air cleaner? Sometimes the sheath
on
the throttle cable can slip and the choke will stay closed and it will run
for a few seconds or so and then die when the engine starts to warm up.
I've read that a sheared flywheel key can cause the engine to die suddenly
but it's never happend to me but should be easy enough to check for.
I forgot to say: will it continue run if you hold the thottle open on the
carburator? That might mean a weak governor spring.
I like free lawnmowers. I have three of them. So far none have had any
serious problems that couldn't be fixed for next to nothing.
Governor spring don't get "weak". Unless someone like you is pulling on
them and bending them ways they aren't supposed to go.
--
Art