Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie23
So, I'm about to lift some turf and lay some new turf as well as extending the area. However, I'm very much a garden novice and have a couple of questions I'd like to ask you lovely people.
1. Do I have to add top soil to the area before laying the new turf? Or can I just add sand to the existing soil? (I have it on good authority that the garden soil is very fertile)
2. Do I have to do the ground preperation immediately before laying the new turf or can I do it the day before?
3. The area I'm using to extend the lawn has existing weeds. After removing the weeds should I use weedkiller on the soil or will this effect the new turf.
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Ok people if we can get away for petty bickering and actually assist the OP with his query?
The ultimate guide to laying a flat usable turf lawn:
This would be my take:
1/ Treat the area for weeds, digging them out may leave a broken tap root which will come back to haunt you. Remove stones etc and get the area reasonably level. Don't worry about it being perfectly level now as we will take care of that shortly.
2/. Spread
sharp (plasterers) sand over the area to a depth of 2-4 inches.
3/. Hire a vibrating plate (the flat bottomed type not the trench type, the hire centre will know what you mean) Dont skimp here and try to compact another way; forget rollers and stamping, it's the 21st century and this piece of kit will make the difference to your lawn. Should be around £20 for the day.
4/. Go over the area with the vibrating plate to compact the sand, 2x passes no more. It will be very uneven now but don't worry about that.
5/. Get a straight edge, at least 6-8' and STRAIGHT, no flimbsy bits of wood. A good 4x2. at least. DON'T try to do this with a rake, believe me your eye is not that good!
6/. Go over the area shaving off the highpoints and add the 'shaved off' sand to the depressions, use additional sand for the lowpoints as required.
7/. ONE more pass with the plate.
8/.Use the straight edge again to shave highpoints and highlight any remaning depressions.
9/. repeat step 7.
10/. If you have dont this right you should have a perfectly flat area, compact enough to actually walk on (within reason, be careful) without disturbing the ground.
11/. Give the area a very
LIGHT rake, even a grass rake would be sufficent, you only want to tease the surface, no more.
12./ Lay your turf neatly with no gaps (don't water it first) using the straight edge to to 'butt' and ensure tight joints but don't damage the edges. Once laid water in and the expanding turf will ensure a tight fit. No tapping beating thumping required as you have a perfectly flat surface to work with!
You can now walk on your new lawn, no waiting, no nonsense.
Ensure that you keep the lawn well watered for the first couple of weeks to prevent shrinkage and bad-a-bing you're finished.
If you followed the steps correctly there will be no depressions or peaks appearing and you lawn will resemble a golf course and not an obstacle course!
As a footnote if you want to go over an old lawn for the easiest route, apply a kill everything type weedkiller. Once the lawn and weeds have died (leave it for a week) cut and strim down the grass short; water thouroughly and leave for a day (you don't want to work in mud). Clear away debris then follow the steps above. This way no tilling, no back breaking weeding; why make it hard for yourself?
Good luck with the lawn...