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#1
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
The old Victa lawmmover (B&S engine) is about 20 years old. It sill
starts okay, but needs to run for 10-15 minutes before I can open the throttle[1]. Worth repairing or should I just replace it? If i replace it, is it hard to self-repair? I'm thinking it might be new rings to seal worn cylinder, etc and am wondering how difficult that is to do for a single cylinder engine? Probably use it as a home made generator/battery charger. [1] Not a problem if I just want to take the top off at the higheast setting. |
#2
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Re mower.
Is it a four stroke or two stroke? Four strokes outlast any 2 stroke and are less prone to trouble. Look in the work shop . Most repairs are 2 strokes. If you have to ask if you can repair it, it is too hard. Basic things like change spark plug, empty out fuel and check for water contamination, clean air filter you should do yourself. A mower shop would only charge around $75 to $90 for this (tune up)and give an up to date report on further condition. As well they may even suggest a new mower, and you could then ask b4 doing the work for their opinion. It would pay to get a safety check under all circumstances if youre not comfortable doing any of this. Saves loosing your foot perhaps. Terryc wrote: The old Victa lawmmover (B&S engine) is about 20 years old. It sill starts okay, but needs to run for 10-15 minutes before I can open the throttle[1]. Worth repairing or should I just replace it? If i replace it, is it hard to self-repair? I'm thinking it might be new rings to seal worn cylinder, etc and am wondering how difficult that is to do for a single cylinder engine? Probably use it as a home made generator/battery charger. [1] Not a problem if I just want to take the top off at the higheast setting. |
#3
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Jonno wrote:
Re mower. Is it a four stroke or two stroke? 4 stroke. If you have to ask if you can repair it, it is too hard. I've always been impressed by the simpleness of older lawn mower engines, and my engine knowledge says there isn't anything complicated under the head. Between, lawnmowers, mulcher and chain saws, I've stripped down and cleaned everything but, so if it was a write-off then there wasn't going to be anything to loose and I might learn something. If it was going to be like a car engine where it needed a rebore and new pistons then TAFE can have it for their scrap bins. |
#4
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Terryc wrote:
Jonno wrote: Re mower. Is it a four stroke or two stroke? 4 stroke. If you have to ask if you can repair it, it is too hard. I've always been impressed by the simpleness of older lawn mower engines, and my engine knowledge says there isn't anything complicated under the head. Between, lawnmowers, mulcher and chain saws, I've stripped down and cleaned everything but, so if it was a write-off then there wasn't going to be anything to loose and I might learn something. If it was going to be like a car engine where it needed a rebore and new pistons then TAFE can have it for their scrap bins. Nobody else can read this SHOO!! Private conversation only!!!! Go away!!! For your eyes only Secret Men's business!!!!! HERE WE GO OK Being a four stroke, its a little more complicated but also may be worth looking at and learning from. Don't be intimidated. Do what I suggested change plug, air cleaner and fuel first. Those are basic things that need to be in order before you can even start looking for faults. Empty out the fuel tank, and pour the fuel from the tank into a clear jar to see how dirty it is. Pour in a little metho into the fuel tank. To clear out any water which may be causing the problem. Fuel cans can cause problems if left outside and water collects in the rim of the petrol can with dew and rain,, and gets siphoned into the petrol. Never ever leave the fuel can outside for that reason. The capacitor on the magneto may be faulty. You cant test it at home but can replace it anyway. The points should be set at the right gap. Borrow a book on mowers from the local library if youre lucky. |
#5
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
g'day terry,
might only need a simple carby overhaul to replace the diaphram. now the big question can a handy man do that task, well it will depend on your mechanical expertise as there are only 2 ways to reassemble a carby 1 is the right way the other is the wrong way, and yes some damage can be caused to either the carby or the new diaphram. as for re-ringing again not a super difficult task so long as you can remember how things came out so they go back together exactly the same in reverse. our b&s motor is touching 23 years old now been swapped from its origianl frame to another now back again, had the carby replaced with a good second had unit, had a couple or so diaphrams in the carby probably ready for another? starts with little effort on the second pull sometimes the first seldom the third. gave it an obligatory valve grind about 20 years ago, uses no oil blows no smoke, be well worth putting in a set of those chrome segmented rings b&s used to supply dunno if they still do? but if you were to pull it down for a re-ring and the bore is worn without any scoring then see if they still ahve those segmented rings and put a set of them in, oh you will definately need a ring compressor to hep fit the pisotn with new rings back into the bore, but they are the way to go. run them on straight sae grade oils i like nothing under 40 generally 50 can use 60. On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 11:11:46 +1100, Terryc wrote: snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ |
#6
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Gday Len (and Terry),
The mower "wont start on full throttle" sounds less than a full overhaul to me. The basic stuff is usually all that's required, without going into the heavier stuff. (Depending on its history of use of course.) As he's only starting at the edges, it may be going in too far, which may make the mower unserviceable. What you mention is wise of course, but only if the basic preliminary check reveals that those issues I mentioned previously are not the problem. As I have previously worked on mowers, I know most problems relate to these issues of fuel, air and plugs. If those are OK, then your suggestion of going in deeper is needed. Pulling a carby out, can make it difficult to put it back again, with many springs and things to get the average person confused without a book. Making a drawing of this, in this case helps for the beginner. Even then, experience is needed to get it to run properly once again. Valve grinds and re ringing is easy enough, but also requires some prior experience to understand what is worn and what isn't. Even at 20 years old he might get by without this. Valve guides could be a problem, and this is most common. At around $300 to $400 a new 4/S mower may be prohibitive, so its still worth doing. Warning disagreement(Two ways to assemble a carby ARRRGH! I know many ways, having seen many ways of screwing the carby, and only one way of getting it right.) Put all parts in small container Do not loose anything... Anyway there are some website to help you if required http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq.htm No good reinventing the wheel... len garden wrote: g'day terry, might only need a simple carby overhaul to replace the diaphram. now the big question can a handy man do that task, well it will depend on your mechanical expertise as there are only 2 ways to reassemble a carby 1 is the right way the other is the wrong way, and yes some damage can be caused to either the carby or the new diaphram. as for re-ringing again not a super difficult task so long as you can remember how things came out so they go back together exactly the same in reverse. our b&s motor is touching 23 years old now been swapped from its origianl frame to another now back again, had the carby replaced with a good second had unit, had a couple or so diaphrams in the carby probably ready for another? starts with little effort on the second pull sometimes the first seldom the third. gave it an obligatory valve grind about 20 years ago, uses no oil blows no smoke, be well worth putting in a set of those chrome segmented rings b&s used to supply dunno if they still do? but if you were to pull it down for a re-ring and the bore is worn without any scoring then see if they still ahve those segmented rings and put a set of them in, oh you will definately need a ring compressor to hep fit the pisotn with new rings back into the bore, but they are the way to go. run them on straight sae grade oils i like nothing under 40 generally 50 can use 60. On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 11:11:46 +1100, Terryc wrote: snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ |
#7
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Jonno wrote:
THE Brigs and Stratton Homepage and Faqs http://faqs-rowen.custhelp.com/cgi-b...&p_page_foot=1 Gday Len (and Terry), The mower "wont start on full throttle" sounds less than a full overhaul to me. The basic stuff is usually all that's required, without going into the heavier stuff. (Depending on its history of use of course.) As he's only starting at the edges, it may be going in too far, which may make the mower unserviceable. What you mention is wise of course, but only if the basic preliminary check reveals that those issues I mentioned previously are not the problem. As I have previously worked on mowers, I know most problems relate to these issues of fuel, air and plugs. If those are OK, then your suggestion of going in deeper is needed. Pulling a carby out, can make it difficult to put it back again, with many springs and things to get the average person confused without a book. Making a drawing of this, in this case helps for the beginner. Even then, experience is needed to get it to run properly once again. Valve grinds and re ringing is easy enough, but also requires some prior experience to understand what is worn and what isn't. Even at 20 years old he might get by without this. Valve guides could be a problem, and this is most common. At around $300 to $400 a new 4/S mower may be prohibitive, so its still worth doing. Warning disagreement(Two ways to assemble a carby ARRRGH! I know many ways, having seen many ways of screwing the carby, and only one way of getting it right.) Put all parts in small container Do not loose anything... Anyway there are some website to help you if required http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq.htm No good reinventing the wheel... len garden wrote: g'day terry, might only need a simple carby overhaul to replace the diaphram. now the big question can a handy man do that task, well it will depend on your mechanical expertise as there are only 2 ways to reassemble a carby 1 is the right way the other is the wrong way, and yes some damage can be caused to either the carby or the new diaphram. as for re-ringing again not a super difficult task so long as you can remember how things came out so they go back together exactly the same in reverse. our b&s motor is touching 23 years old now been swapped from its origianl frame to another now back again, had the carby replaced with a good second had unit, had a couple or so diaphrams in the carby probably ready for another? starts with little effort on the second pull sometimes the first seldom the third. gave it an obligatory valve grind about 20 years ago, uses no oil blows no smoke, be well worth putting in a set of those chrome segmented rings b&s used to supply dunno if they still do? but if you were to pull it down for a re-ring and the bore is worn without any scoring then see if they still ahve those segmented rings and put a set of them in, oh you will definately need a ring compressor to hep fit the pisotn with new rings back into the bore, but they are the way to go. run them on straight sae grade oils i like nothing under 40 generally 50 can use 60. On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 11:11:46 +1100, Terryc wrote: snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ |
#8
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
g'day jonno,
yes after many years as a mower mechanic i have seen the disasters of the home handymand trying to DIY a mower problem, there is a modicom of expertise required and trying to disassemblre/reassemble from a manual may not be all that easy either. very often waht could ahve been a simple repair adjustment by an experienced person the DIY repair can be quiet disasterous in its end result. and for me of course trying to help someone over this medium is all but impossible because i aint there hey? right now my machine needs a diaphram but me not particularly wanting to do the job right now or anytime real soon can make the mower work beyond the problem. i wouldn't be too worried about valve guides, that too with the right equipment/workshop tools can be done at home and even after buying the tools still be done cheaper than paying for it. but valve guides have realy got to be bad before you would even consider doing anything about them. yes many pitfalls in putting a carby back togehter but in the end there are still only 2 ways for the backyarder the wrong way (common) and the right way (hardly ever). and the funny part once they stuff it up and bring it into the shop we then become the culprit in their minds because they often ahve to pay again for the aprt they messed up trying to fit plus the extra bits like stretched and misshappened springs etc.,. etc.,. On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 09:30:22 +1100, Jonno wrote: snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ |
#9
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Yes Len, I know this so I didnt want him to go further until he had
tested the basics...Its often enough... len garden wrote: g'day jonno, yes after many years as a mower mechanic i have seen the disasters of the home handymand trying to DIY a mower problem, there is a modicom of expertise required and trying to disassemblre/reassemble from a manual may not be all that easy either. very often waht could ahve been a simple repair adjustment by an experienced person the DIY repair can be quiet disasterous in its end result. and for me of course trying to help someone over this medium is all but impossible because i aint there hey? right now my machine needs a diaphram but me not particularly wanting to do the job right now or anytime real soon can make the mower work beyond the problem. i wouldn't be too worried about valve guides, that too with the right equipment/workshop tools can be done at home and even after buying the tools still be done cheaper than paying for it. but valve guides have realy got to be bad before you would even consider doing anything about them. yes many pitfalls in putting a carby back togehter but in the end there are still only 2 ways for the backyarder the wrong way (common) and the right way (hardly ever). and the funny part once they stuff it up and bring it into the shop we then become the culprit in their minds because they often ahve to pay again for the aprt they messed up trying to fit plus the extra bits like stretched and misshappened springs etc.,. etc.,. On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 09:30:22 +1100, Jonno wrote: snipped With peace and brightest of blessings, len -- "Be Content With What You Have And May You Find Serenity and Tranquillity In A World That You May Not Understand." http://www.lensgarden.com.au/ |
#10
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Terryc wrote:
The old Victa lawmmover (B&S engine) is about 20 years old. It sill starts okay, but needs to run for 10-15 minutes before I can open the throttle[1]. Worth repairing or should I just replace it? If i replace it, is it hard to self-repair? I'm thinking it might be new rings to seal worn cylinder, etc and am wondering how difficult that is to do for a single cylinder engine? Probably use it as a home made generator/battery charger. [1] Not a problem if I just want to take the top off at the higheast setting. Hi there Terry, and everyone else as this is my first post to aus.gardens. Does it run on after you to stop it? I guess it may be hard to tell if you use the throttle to do so. But it could be in need of a de-coke. You just pull the head off and scrape out all the carbon from the top of the piston and inside of the head. Then there is of course the old "bush mechanic's de-coke". Where you get the motor running and warmed up with the air-cleaner off, and very gingerly squirt water into the air intake. This has the effect of steam-cleaning the top of the piston and the inside of the head. If you do this however, be very careful to only squirt in a little at a time, not too much at once, as water is not something you can compress. I will leave you to imagine the consequences (something has go to give). So do so at your own risk. I must say though, that I have done this myself with good results on a few different motors, 2 and 4 stroke. I used to have this old side-valve 4-stroke generator that coked up all the time, but in the end I got sick of pulling the head off to de-coke it, so used this method for years to no ill effect. I did use an atomiser however. I know, I know, I should have changed the oil rings, but I didn't want to crack the base gasket as this involved splitting the crank-case, which involved removing the exciter and on and on. A bloke I know here in Queensland said he sells re-built B&S motors for about $450. One of my brothers swears by his old 2-stroke victors. He has changed the ring (singular) :-) himself, but mostly he just threatens them with being taken to the tip. :-) Although the problem is that (as with any motor) a lip develops over time in the un-swept portion of the top of the bore, which needs to be honed out if you want to put the next over-size (or even the same size) ring in. Otherwise, if it's at all a large lip, it may well crack the new ring. You can get lip removing tools, but they are not cheep. The bore will also need a light hone. HTH. -Adrian |
#11
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
corridor 159 wrote:
Does it run on after you to stop it? Err, that is a bit hard to tell as I usually park it with the spark plug head in the horehound to kill it {:-). I had to disconnect the off switch to get it to run. I will leave you to imagine the consequences (something has go to give). So do so at your own risk. I have a steam loco, so I know what expanding water is capable of {:-) A bloke I know here in Queensland said he sells re-built B&S motors for about $450. I've scored a couple of free lawnmowers, plus access to a box of parts, so might leave that for a while. One of my brothers swears by his old 2-stroke victors. or at ? {:-) He has changed the ring (singular) :-) himself, but mostly he just threatens them with being taken to the tip. :-) lol. thanks for the lip tip. |
#12
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Lawnmower; repair or replace?
Terryc wrote:
corridor 159 wrote: Does it run on after you to stop it? Err, that is a bit hard to tell as I usually park it with the spark plug head in the horehound to kill it {:-). I had to disconnect the off switch to get it to run. I will leave you to imagine the consequences (something has go to give). So do so at your own risk. I have a steam loco, so I know what expanding water is capable of {:-) A bloke I know here in Queensland said he sells re-built B&S motors for about $450. I've scored a couple of free lawnmowers, plus access to a box of parts, so might leave that for a while. One of my brothers swears by his old 2-stroke victors. or at ? {:-) He has changed the ring (singular) :-) himself, but mostly he just threatens them with being taken to the tip. :-) lol. thanks for the lip tip. Another tip. Most mowers at the repair shop are two strokes. Dont threaten them, do it. At the price of mowers in Melbourne at present you can afford to buy a new 4 stroke at around $300 (from memory) and have plenty of time to consider fixing it in the future. |
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