I have decided to try and plant bushes or scrubs by the back fence. It faces south. Any ideas, preferably not too slow in growing and up to 6 ft high.

Thanks
Katherine

"jones" wrote in message ...
I have decided to try and plant bushes or scrubs by the back fence. It faces south. Any ideas, preferably not too slow in growing and up to 6 ft high.

Thanks
Katherine


Would suggest you grow Camelia's and sasanquas would be the smaller growing. Just remember you can prune them to maintain that height. Could also look at Azelea magnifica as they put on a great show.

Cheers

Richard

Thank you Richard.

I like Azaleas, but they always die on me :-( Are Camellias the ones where the flowers grow black if you touch them?


"jones" wrote in message I have decided to try and plant bushes or scrubs by the back fence. It faces south. Any ideas, preferably not too slow in growing and up to 6 ft high.

Thanks
Katherine


Would suggest you grow Camelia's and sasanquas would be the smaller growing. Just remember you can prune them to maintain that height. Could also look at Azelea magnifica as they put on a great show.

Cheers

Richard

Azaleas and camelias will both require acid soils. Any soil that is near buildings or walls will require treatment as both contain lime, which is alkaline. In days of yore plasterers had dumping grounds around the yard for leftover and waste materials so this could be a cause.

I always top up pine needles as mulch, which over time builds up good leaf mould, retains moisture and provides good acidity. The mulch also keeps down weeds. You'll find that azaleas have a root system that is fine and close to the surface so they need adequate moisture to survive and camelias also like moisture.

Camelias are not the flowers that turn black if you touch them.

Cheers

Richard

Lavender is always good.

Loosecanon wrote:
Azaleas and camelias will both require acid soils. Any soil that is near
buildings or walls will require treatment as both contain lime, which is
alkaline. In days of yore plasterers had dumping grounds around the yard
for leftover and waste materials so this could be a cause.

I always top up pine needles as mulch, which over time builds up good
leaf mould, retains moisture and provides good acidity. The mulch also
keeps down weeds. You'll find that azaleas have a root system that is
fine and close to the surface so they need adequate moisture to survive
and camelias also like moisture.

Camelias are not the flowers that turn black if you touch them.

Cheers

Richard

Thanks fellas, both good suggestions.

Katherine


Lavender is always good.


Azaleas and camelias will both require acid soils. Any soil that is near
buildings or walls will require treatment as both contain lime, which is
alkaline. In days of yore plasterers had dumping grounds around the yard
for leftover and waste materials so this could be a cause.
I always top up pine needles as mulch, which over time builds up good
leaf mould, retains moisture and provides good acidity. The mulch also
keeps down weeds. You'll find that azaleas have a root system that is
fine and close to the surface so they need adequate moisture to survive
and camelias also like moisture.
Camelias are not the flowers that turn black if you touch them.

"jones" wrote in message
...
Thanks fellas, both good suggestions.

Katherine


Lavender is always good.


Azaleas and camelias will both require acid soils. Any soil that is near
buildings or walls will require treatment as both contain lime, which is
alkaline. In days of yore plasterers had dumping grounds around the yard
for leftover and waste materials so this could be a cause.
I always top up pine needles as mulch, which over time builds up good
leaf mould, retains moisture and provides good acidity. The mulch also
keeps down weeds. You'll find that azaleas have a root system that is
fine and close to the surface so they need adequate moisture to survive
and camelias also like moisture.
Camelias are not the flowers that turn black if you touch them.


Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect

Loosecanon wrote:
"jones" wrote in message
...
Thanks fellas, both good suggestions.

Katherine


Lavender is always good.

Azaleas and camelias will both require acid soils. Any soil that is near
buildings or walls will require treatment as both contain lime, which is
alkaline. In days of yore plasterers had dumping grounds around the yard
for leftover and waste materials so this could be a cause.
I always top up pine needles as mulch, which over time builds up good
leaf mould, retains moisture and provides good acidity. The mulch also
keeps down weeds. You'll find that azaleas have a root system that is
fine and close to the surface so they need adequate moisture to survive
and camelias also like moisture.
Camelias are not the flowers that turn black if you touch them.

Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect


Depends on latitude.

"Jonno" . wrote in message
u...
Loosecanon wrote:

Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect
Depends on latitude.

i have english lavender naturalised at my place - if it decides to reproduce
(which it did all summer, like a mad thing!) it just does - and in full
shade, the wrong soil, the wrong aspect. etc. i think it's one of those
plants which has a reputation that is less flexible than the reality. it's
really very tough & flexible ime.
kylie

Lavender depending on the type does very well everywhere.
It grows in shady England doesnt it ?

0tterbot wrote:
"Jonno" . wrote in message
u...
Loosecanon wrote:

Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect
Depends on latitude.

i have english lavender naturalised at my place - if it decides to reproduce
(which it did all summer, like a mad thing!) it just does - and in full
shade, the wrong soil, the wrong aspect. etc. i think it's one of those
plants which has a reputation that is less flexible than the reality. it's
really very tough & flexible ime.
kylie

English lavender can put up with shade.
Other varieties can also.
Never worry about what is said about conditions.
If it dies it dies. Plants like to live as a rule.
Otherwise put another plant on the job.

0tterbot wrote:
"Jonno" . wrote in message
u...
Loosecanon wrote:

Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect
Depends on latitude.

i have english lavender naturalised at my place - if it decides to reproduce
(which it did all summer, like a mad thing!) it just does - and in full
shade, the wrong soil, the wrong aspect. etc. i think it's one of those
plants which has a reputation that is less flexible than the reality. it's
really very tough & flexible ime.
kylie

"0tterbot" wrote in message
...
"Jonno" . wrote in message
u...
Loosecanon wrote:

Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect
Depends on latitude.

i have english lavender naturalised at my place - if it decides to
reproduce (which it did all summer, like a mad thing!) it just does - and
in full shade, the wrong soil, the wrong aspect. etc. i think it's one of
those plants which has a reputation that is less flexible than the
reality. it's really very tough & flexible ime.
kylie


It all makes sense now. I can grow french and italian lavender like weeds
and english lavender just turns up it toes. I will remember the shady dank
english spot in the garden if I am ever tempted to plant it again.

The italian lavender gets to about 60 cm here and the french could push
80cm. Has anyone got these to the 1.8m (6ft) ie fence, as mentioned earlier
even as a standard?

Cheers

Richard

"Loosecanon" wrote in message
...

"0tterbot" wrote in message
...
"Jonno" . wrote in message
u...
Loosecanon wrote:

Lavender would prefer full sun never a southly aspect
Depends on latitude.

i have english lavender naturalised at my place - if it decides to
reproduce (which it did all summer, like a mad thing!) it just does - and
in full shade, the wrong soil, the wrong aspect. etc. i think it's one of
those plants which has a reputation that is less flexible than the
reality. it's really very tough & flexible ime.
kylie


It all makes sense now. I can grow french and italian lavender like weeds
and english lavender just turns up it toes. I will remember the shady dank
english spot in the garden if I am ever tempted to plant it again.

i'd say worth a try!

i brought some french with me, but it's clearly just not the same. it's
aware conditions here aren't really what it wants & has failed to go off in
the same way the english does, which has clearly been here for a number of
(plant) generations. all my french plants are ok, but they haven't thrived
like the english i've been digging up & transplanting around.

The italian lavender gets to about 60 cm here and the french could push
80cm. Has anyone got these to the 1.8m (6ft) ie fence, as mentioned
earlier even as a standard?

i'm not sure that's possible, and if so, would it be desirable? they just
don't normally get that big. would they not be leggy even if you could
encourage them that high?
kylie


Cheers

Richard