Question about Compost bins
 

Hi,

Due to the layout of the house - I probably need to locate most of my black
plastic compost bins (3/5) to an area of the garden which gets full sun. I
tried it before - but the worms invariably fry during Summer.

But would the composting process still work? (I'll put a bucket of water
each day to keep it moist)

I tried the open concept - but the compost invariably dries up and does not
decompose. Doesn't work so well.

Question about Compost bins
 

"YMC" wrote in message

Due to the layout of the house - I probably need to locate most of my
black plastic compost bins (3/5) to an area of the garden which gets full
sun. I tried it before - but the worms invariably fry during Summer.

But would the composting process still work? (I'll put a bucket of water
each day to keep it moist)

You didn't say what these bins look like or how they operate.

For example, I have 2 of the 'upside down' Gedye bins - the ones with no
base and the lid on them. They operate anaerobically and one fills them up
till they are about 80% full and then leave them for a while. These bins
are ideal for kitchen scrap and they never, in my experience, need the
addition of any liquid. both mine sit in full sun for most of the day and
there is no problem with them.

The other 2 mobile bins I have are the ones on a central axle that tumble.
They too sit in full sun but are a bit more problemmatic. They do dry out
more easily but still work.

I tried the open concept - but the compost invariably dries up and does
not decompose. Doesn't work so well.

I don't make good compost from big piles either, but then I don't have the
strength to turn them anymore and thus they do what your's have done, dry
out and although everything eventually rots - it's not what I'd call real
compost.

Question about Compost bins
 

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
news:48f286ab$0$10585$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-

You didn't say what these bins look like or how they operate.

I have the Gedye bins - the one that look like squat post office
letterboxes - but with just a lid, no drawers.

For some reason, they do tend to dry out. I'm living in Melbourne. The area
I located the bins gets full sun - including a full blast from the West.

We have a large compost pile with fencing - bad idea I think - that one has
problems as it dries out too easily and a lot of the stuff turns straw
like - esp. the stalks of plants; and does not decompose.

The main problem with that section is that the compost worms die. You see
them desperately trying to crawl out of the bin in Summer and getting fried.

(I relocated the compost worm bin - also a Gedye - to a shady spot)
Hopefully that will help. But my garden is too big and needs about 4 compost
bins.





For example, I have 2 of the 'upside down' Gedye bins - the ones with no
base and the lid on them. They operate anaerobically and one fills them
up till they are about 80% full and then leave them for a while. These
bins are ideal for kitchen scrap and they never, in my experience, need
the addition of any liquid. both mine sit in full sun for most of the day
and there is no problem with them.

The other 2 mobile bins I have are the ones on a central axle that tumble.
They too sit in full sun but are a bit more problemmatic. They do dry out
more easily but still work.

I tried the open concept - but the compost invariably dries up and does
not decompose. Doesn't work so well.

I don't make good compost from big piles either, but then I don't have the
strength to turn them anymore and thus they do what your's have done, dry
out and although everything eventually rots - it's not what I'd call real
compost.

Question about Compost bins
 

"YMC" wrote in message
...
Hi,

Due to the layout of the house - I probably need to locate most of my
black plastic compost bins (3/5) to an area of the garden which gets full
sun. I tried it before - but the worms invariably fry during Summer.

But would the composting process still work? (I'll put a bucket of water
each day to keep it moist)

I tried the open concept - but the compost invariably dries up and does
not decompose. Doesn't work so well.

apparently (using that as soemthing of a disclaimer ;-) the process of
organic stuff breaking down has an ideal temperature range of
(approximately!!!) 15-25 degrees or so. (if i could think what book i read
that in, i could check, couldn't i? ;-)

it has to do with ideal operating temperatures for worms & bacteria etc,
rather than the stuff itself (which clearly has no opinion).

when it's hotter than that (considering sun exposure and colour of bin), you
might experience far less decomposition than you'd hope for (that is my
experience). the worms & bugs either clear off or they die if they can't get
away. you might also find the compost has overheated (grey matter in the
compost, smoke coming out - again, my rather alarming experience). compost
which has overheated entirely, as well as not breaking down properly (but
rather, smouldering) might present a fire hazard of some sort. you can cool
it by leaving it open, watering & airing it regularly, but it just won't be
the same once that's happened, the bacteria will be dead & it takes _ages_
to get going again.

if i were you i'd think about what sort of shade could be provided for
summer. a simple shelter comprised of posts and shade cloth, perhaps? you
can use wet hessian over the top, but that sounds like a pointless hassle to
me if you could organise shade over the bins instead.
kylie

Question about Compost bins
 

"0tterbot" wrote in message
...
apparently (using that as soemthing of a disclaimer ;-) the process of
organic stuff breaking down has an ideal temperature range of
(approximately!!!) 15-25 degrees or so. (if i could think what book i read
that in, i could check, couldn't i? ;-)

it has to do with ideal operating temperatures for worms & bacteria etc,
rather than the stuff itself (which clearly has no opinion).

when it's hotter than that (considering sun exposure and colour of bin),
you might experience far less decomposition than you'd hope for (that is
my experience). the worms & bugs either clear off or they die if they
can't get away. you might also find the compost has overheated (grey
matter in the compost, smoke coming out - again, my rather alarming
experience). compost which has overheated entirely, as well as not
breaking down properly (but rather, smouldering) might present a fire
hazard of some sort. you can cool it by leaving it open, watering & airing
it regularly, but it just won't be the same once that's happened, the
bacteria will be dead & it takes _ages_ to get going again.

if i were you i'd think about what sort of shade could be provided for
summer. a simple shelter comprised of posts and shade cloth, perhaps? you
can use wet hessian over the top, but that sounds like a pointless hassle
to me if you could organise shade over the bins instead.
kylie

Thanks Kylie. I don't think the hessian bag will work. Its just very hot.

I've relocated one of the compost bins to a very shady spot. And I'll try
and relocate more in that corner.

I'll keep one in the hot area - minus the worms - and see how that fares
over Summer. That spot is fairly large and out of the way and sight - hence
my desire to place my compost bins there.

Question about Compost bins
 

On Oct 14, 12:26*am, "YMC" wrote:
"0tterbot" wrote in message

...



apparently (using that as soemthing of a disclaimer ;-) the process of
organic stuff breaking down has an ideal temperature range of
(approximately!!!) 15-25 degrees or so. (if i could think what book i read
that in, i could check, couldn't i? ;-)

it has to do with ideal operating temperatures for worms & bacteria etc,
rather than the stuff itself (which clearly has no opinion).

when it's hotter than that (considering sun exposure and colour of bin),
you might experience far less decomposition than you'd hope for (that is
my experience). the worms & bugs either clear off or they die if they
can't get away. you might also find the compost has overheated (grey
matter in the compost, smoke coming out - again, my rather alarming
experience). compost which has overheated entirely, as well as not
breaking down properly (but rather, smouldering) might present a fire
hazard of some sort. you can cool it by leaving it open, watering & airing
it regularly, but it just won't be the same once that's happened, the
bacteria will be dead & it takes _ages_ to get going again.

if i were you i'd think about what sort of shade could be provided for
summer. a simple shelter comprised of posts and shade cloth, perhaps? you
can use wet hessian over the top, but that sounds like a pointless hassle
to me if you could organise shade over the bins instead.
kylie

Thanks Kylie. I don't think the hessian bag will work. Its just very hot.

I've relocated one of the compost bins to a very shady spot. And I'll try
and relocate more in that corner.

I'll keep one in the hot area - minus the worms - and see how that fares
over Summer. That spot is fairly large and out of the way and sight - hence
my desire to place my compost bins there.

I have an anerobic compost bin which is in a shady spot. It goes
along quite well.

However, I used to look after compost bins at my son's school for some
years, and I now recall that they were not as effective as my own
bins. I used to attribute that to the activities of children,
(constantly fishing plastic bags and yoghurt containers out of them)
but I now wonder if it was due to the effects of full sun. It used to
take a long time to decompose, and they also had the problem with
straw forming rather than decomposing, as someone else mentioned.

If you are able to move some to a shady spot it would be an excellent
test of this issue over the summer. Please get back to us after
summer.

Yours

Norm

Question about Compost bins
 

"Norm" wrote in message
news:d48d8072-755e-480c-a7aa-However, I used to look after compost bins at
my son's school for some
years, and I now recall that they were not as effective as my own
bins. I used to attribute that to the activities of children,
(constantly fishing plastic bags and yoghurt containers out of them)
but I now wonder if it was due to the effects of full sun. It used to
take a long time to decompose, and they also had the problem with
straw forming rather than decomposing, as someone else mentioned.

If you are able to move some to a shady spot it would be an excellent
test of this issue over the summer. Please get back to us after
summer.
Yours
Norm
***********************

Hi Norm,

I'll get back to you on that! I've located one of the bins in the shady
spot - and the other in the sunny spot.

I think what I'll do is to put the grass clippings, weeds, runners and the
nasty stuff in the sunny spot bin.

In the past, it turns grey, steams, and turns into hay - esp. if no water is
added during Summer. (90% of the worms die) But during Winter - it comes
along beautifully.

I located the compost bin section in the shady spot - and I'll try and
locate more bins in that sector.

Will tell you the results in 4 months time. lol.

Question about Compost bins
 

"YMC" wrote in message
"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message


You didn't say what these bins look like or how they operate.

I have the Gedye bins - the one that look like squat post office
letterboxes - but with just a lid, no drawers.

For some reason, they do tend to dry out. I'm living in Melbourne. The
area I located the bins gets full sun - including a full blast from the
West.

That's interesting. Mine have never dried out. I use them for kitchen
scrap so thats always pretty moist since I put any liquid from stuff I've
cooked in there too. My Gedye bins are shaded from the most severe late
afternoon sun from about 5.30 onwards in summer. Perahps you could put up a
bit of shade cloth on some stakes on the westward side and add some more
liquid.

Question about Compost bins
 

"YMC" wrote in message
I'll get back to you on that! I've located one of the bins in the shady
spot - and the other in the sunny spot.

I think what I'll do is to put the grass clippings, weeds, runners and the
nasty stuff in the sunny spot bin.

I think you might be using your Gedye bins in the wrong way. IIRC, they are
suposed to be primarily for kitchen waste and not for the sort of stuff
you'd normally put into a compost heap (like weeds, grass clippings etc). I
don't have the time to hunt through my files at the moment for the
instructions that came with mine decades ago but I'm fairly sure that they
are designed specifically for kitchen type scraps and that is why they are
designed as they are. ie they don't allow things to get into then as easily
as into an open compost pile.

That would explain the difference between yours drying out and mine not
doing so and never having done so and that included a time when they were in
full sun from dawn to dusk.

And they are supposed to sit in the sun. That much I do recall from the
instructions.

Question about Compost bins
 

"FarmI" ask@itshall be given wrote in message
news:48f5668c$0$10587$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader- I think you might be
using your Gedye bins in the wrong way. IIRC, they are
suposed to be primarily for kitchen waste and not for the sort of stuff
you'd normally put into a compost heap (like weeds, grass clippings etc).
I....

OK, I see. We don't have a lot of kitchen waste and so most of the stuff
that goes into the Gedye bins is the lawn clippings, weeds etc..

Well, I'll let the forum know about the progress. The reason why I'd like to
use the Gedye bins for my lawn clippings is that they have a better chance
of killing the grass runners, weed seeds etc.. than the open pile concept.

(I guess if I was more active in turning over the open compost - maybe the
weed seeds/runners would be killed - but I travel a fair bit and can't be
around to do that).

I've relocated the compost bins to a shady area in the garden and will let
the group know whether it went ok or not.

Question about Compost bins
 

I'll post up some photos of the compost bin locations at
alt.binaries.pictures.gardens

tomorrow or when I get some free time on the weekend.

If you are free check it out.

Question about Compost bins
 

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 01:41:36 +1100, YMC wrote:


OK, I see. We don't have a lot of kitchen waste and so most of the stuff
that goes into the Gedye bins is the lawn clippings, weeds etc..

My kitchen waste includes a lot of liquid; teapot remains, initial
rinse/wash of pots, etc. Often, I'm just dumping a bucket of liquid with
little solid.

I also do not have solid covers, but pieces of old carpet thus allowing as
much of the rain as it can to get into it. Caveat, some carpet is good
water proofing. old bags would be better.


Final 2c, AFAIK composting is AEROBIC (oxygen is present), not anerobic
(e.g water logged ground).

Question about Compost bins
 

"terryc" wrote in message Final 2c, AFAIK
composting is AEROBIC (oxygen is present), not anerobic
(e.g water logged ground).

That's a good point. Would inserting a black perforated plastic tubing - the
one used for drainage - into the bin help?

Question about Compost bins
 

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 13:48:16 +1100, YMC wrote:

"terryc" wrote in message Final 2c, AFAIK
composting is AEROBIC (oxygen is present), not anerobic
(e.g water logged ground).

That's a good point. Would inserting a black perforated plastic tubing -
the one used for drainage - into the bin help?

well, that was a an oldish tip to bring oxygen into the middle of compost
heaps. If you have a piece, give it ago.

Question about Compost bins
 

"Erik Vastmasd" wrote in message
...
You don't have a lot of kitchen waste?

A lot of stuff people put in their Council's recycle bin could also have
added to their own compost bin. Newspapers, cardboard, egg cartons etc.

Although if you also breed worms in your compost then newspapers and
cardboard with a lot of printing isn't beneficial for worms.
--

Erik.

No. I don't have a lot of kitchen waste. I don't throw food out and the
leftovers I reheat the next meal or next day.

I don't read newspapers except when I'm at the Library. I try and read
everything online these days. Less clutter, less waste.

I think that my worm farm was just simply in the wrong location. Exposed to
too much sun. And the compost pile there just gets too dry during Summer.
Most of them run away.

I relocated the worm farm to a separate shady section of the garden - will
let the group know how it goes.

Question about Compost bins
 

"Erik Vastmasd" wrote in message
...
I found I had a spare Council wheelie bin so I drilled drain holes in
the bottom and fill it with grass clippings weeds etc. After it has been
composting for at least two weeks or so I then consider transferring
this material to my compost bins and also my smaller worm farm habitats
that are always shaded.
--


Drilling holes! That's a good idea but is it legal? I tried using mine but
didn't drill holes - so the water sat in it and stank something awful when I
took it out.

Question about Compost bins
 

On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 01:14:26 +1100, YMC wrote:

Drilling holes! That's a good idea but is it legal?

Well, if vandals take it or destroy it, then I have to buy a new one, so I
guess it is my property.

hmm, never thought to compare the price of council supplied ones o the
ones you can get at Mitre10 or other places.

Question about Compost bins
 

"YMC" wrote in message
"terryc" wrote in message Final 2c, AFAIK
composting is AEROBIC (oxygen is present), not anerobic
(e.g water logged ground).

That's a good point. Would inserting a black perforated plastic tubing -
the one used for drainage - into the bin help?

The problem is, Terry's comment is not right for as it doesn't apply to the
Gedye bins.

Composting in an open pile IS aerobic. Those piles are supposed to be
turned, but that is not how the Gedye bins are designed.

You are trying to do something in your Gedye bins that they aren't designed
to do. The Gedye bins operate anaerobically as do all the bins that are
closed tightly like the Gedyes are. Anaerobic compost is a slower way of
making compost but it is less work and it does work.

You might like to know how the two systems of making compost differ because
of your problems. The following sites may help:
http://www.rivenrock.com/composttypes.htm
http://eastwaste.sa.gov.au/student/student.asp?page=26

Question about Compost bins
 

On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:52:13 +1100, FarmI wrote:


http://www.rivenrock.com/composttypes.htm

Frankly, anaerobic composting sounds like a fancy title for making compost
badly and slowly. If you read the site above, it rabbits on about how to
correct the smelly nitrogen rich pile, which basically comes down to
making it aerobic again.

Caveat, I can not be bothered putting all the work into turning compost
piles either and I loath compost recipes as I have better ways to burn
money. Instead, I just load it all into the top of the bin (10L, 20L,
40L and 2x cubic metres atm) and let it sit there. Sure, sometimes it is
anaerobic aka stinks, in which case,I'll drive the crowbar through the
middle to allow air in, but mostly it is aerobic, as the worms moving up
and down and creating ventilation tunnels. They all have open bottoms as
that allows the worms to escape down into the ground it we have a really
hot day. This is probably an essential difference.

Note, if you want the worm to work all the way to the top, a light tight
lid or bag/carpet on top seems essential.

When it comes time to harvest the compost, the top 6-12* generally
gets turned into the bottom of the next bin, as does any worm balls or
worm rich soil. Also, thick sticks, stalks, clumbed newspapers and
anything else that can not be worked through the 1/2"x 1/2" mesh also go
through a number of bin lives.

They might have an win in that anaerobic composting creates a nitrogen
rich compost as we do really well with leafy greens.

But, if one of these closed bins is all you have, then it is still
better than consigning the organic matter to landfill.

Although, we have friends who consider any composting a complete waste of
tme and effort. They claim you should just bury it directly into holes in
the garden. I guess being in Perth, this is easy in the sandy soil.

I think their w

Question about Compost bins
 

"terryc" wrote in message
On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:52:13 +1100, FarmI wrote:

http://www.rivenrock.com/composttypes.htm

Frankly, anaerobic composting sounds like a fancy title for making compost
badly and slowly.

I didn't gain that view from reading that cite. In fact I thought the
opposite - the product finally produced takes a lot of time but ends up
being more nitrogen rich and more humus like. That's the sort of compost I
like.

Whoever wrote it certainly doesn't like anaerobic piles though and his
admission that anaeobic piles worked was rather grudging.

If you read the site above, it rabbits on about how to
correct the smelly nitrogen rich pile, which basically comes down to
making it aerobic again.

Indeed. But the writer is rabbiting on about 'piles' not bins. Bins are a
bit too hard to turn effectively and the Geyde is specifically designed as
an anaerobic system.

Caveat, I can not be bothered putting all the work into turning compost
piles either and I loath compost recipes as I have better ways to burn
money. Instead, I just load it all into the top of the bin (10L, 20L,
40L and 2x cubic metres atm) and let it sit there. Sure, sometimes it is
anaerobic aka stinks, in which case,I'll drive the crowbar through the
middle to allow air in, but mostly it is aerobic, as the worms moving up
and down and creating ventilation tunnels. They all have open bottoms as
that allows the worms to escape down into the ground it we have a really
hot day. This is probably an essential difference.

Note, if you want the worm to work all the way to the top, a light tight
lid or bag/carpet on top seems essential.

When it comes time to harvest the compost, the top 6-12* generally
gets turned into the bottom of the next bin, as does any worm balls or
worm rich soil. Also, thick sticks, stalks, clumbed newspapers and
anything else that can not be worked through the 1/2"x 1/2" mesh also go
through a number of bin lives.

They might have an win in that anaerobic composting creates a nitrogen
rich compost as we do really well with leafy greens.

I've found all the same things as you have with my Geyde bins with the
exception of a pong - never noticed that, it may be there but I've never
managed to get a whiff of a pong. And I don't sieve, I just chuck anything
on the outside and top into the other bin, or the bottom of the one I've
just cleaned out.

But, if one of these closed bins is all you have, then it is still
better than consigning the organic matter to landfill.

I have a couple of tumblers too and I like them but I often forget to tumble
them. I have often had to unload them and soak the contents since they've
dried out to be crisp. When I remember to tumble, they are great, but then
I've found they are hopeless for kitchen scraps.

Although, we have friends who consider any composting a complete waste of
tme and effort. They claim you should just bury it directly into holes in
the garden. I guess being in Perth, this is easy in the sandy soil.

That works well too but if there are foxes around, it's not a method I
prefer. The sods dig it up.

Question about Compost bins
 

"terryc" wrote in message
...

But, if one of these closed bins is all you have, then it is still
better than consigning the organic matter to landfill.

that's how we started composting. we didn't even use it in those days - it
just used to break down in its bin while we ignored it, & it would sort of
disappear, really.

Although, we have friends who consider any composting a complete waste of
tme and effort. They claim you should just bury it directly into holes in
the garden. I guess being in Perth, this is easy in the sandy soil.

lots of people bury. at my mum's house they don't even bury it, they just
chuck it in the garden!

myself, when i tried burying i found i'd just dig it up again accidently. it
was ridiculous. (some of us need the discipline of a bin or pile!!)
kylie

Question about Compost bins
 

YMC wrote:
Due to the layout of the house - I probably need to locate most of my black
plastic compost bins (3/5) to an area of the garden which gets full sun. I
tried it before - but the worms invariably fry during Summer.

But would the composting process still work? (I'll put a bucket of water
each day to keep it moist)

I have 5 big Gedyes in the open sun (in Adelaide), and I put
everything in them, including roses, couch, ivy, food scraps, etc.
Wouldn't go any other way - I've been doing it for years. I've tried
open, but it's too much work and takes up too much space.

I add the stuff a layer (about 15-20 cm) at a time, with about 2-3
spades of soil and a small scoop of blood and bone, and water each
layer. The food scraps go in from another bin about once a month,
usually with green stuff on top to seal the smell in.

I turn them over about each 4-8 weeks. This is easy with a Gedye -
you just pull the bin off the heap, put it next to the heap, and
shovel the heap back into the bin - about 10 min per bin. I normally
add some water at this stage, particularly in summer. The compost
shrinks so if you're turning over (say) 3 bins you end up with at
least one bin free, which moves to the start of the line.

In hot weather I tend to wet them about once each 2 weeks, with
about a bucketful using spray.

Generally the heap won't work well if it's too dry *or* too wet. It
needs both air and water. It certainly will have troubles if it's
too cold too, which is why they need to be in the sun in winter.

Too things I've found out (pretty obvious really when you think
about how these things work). The heap composts faster and takes
less space if you clip green stuff to lengths of about 30 cm or
less, ie less bushes and more stalks and leaves. Secondly, green
stuff composts much faster than dry stuff.

Works for me.

Andrew
--
Andrew Gabb
email: Adelaide, South Australia
phone: +61 8 8342-1021
-----

Question about Compost bins
 

On Oct 19, 1:11*am, Andrew Gabb wrote:
YMC wrote:
Due to the layout of the house - I probably need to locate most of my black
plastic compost bins (3/5) to an area of the garden which gets full sun.. I
tried it before - but the worms invariably fry during Summer.

But would the composting process still work? (I'll put a bucket of water
each day to keep it moist)

I have 5 big Gedyes in the open sun (in Adelaide), and I put
everything in them, including roses, couch, ivy, food scraps, etc.
Wouldn't go any other way - I've been doing it for years. I've tried
open, but it's too much work and takes up too much space.

I add the stuff a layer (about 15-20 cm) at a time, with about 2-3
spades of soil and a small scoop of blood and bone, and water each
layer. The food scraps go in from another bin about once a month,
usually with green stuff on top to seal the smell in.

I turn them over about each 4-8 weeks. This is easy with a Gedye -
you just pull the bin off the heap, put it next to the heap, and
shovel the heap back into the bin - about 10 min per bin. I normally
add some water at this stage, particularly in summer. The compost
shrinks so if you're turning over (say) 3 bins you end up with at
least one bin free, which moves to the start of the line.

In hot weather I tend to wet them about once each 2 weeks, with
about a bucketful using spray.

Generally the heap won't work well if it's too dry *or* too wet. It
needs both air and water. It certainly will have troubles if it's
too cold too, which is why they need to be in the sun in winter.

Too things I've found out (pretty obvious really when you think
about how these things work). The heap composts faster and takes
less space if you clip green stuff to lengths of about 30 cm or
less, ie less bushes and more stalks and leaves. Secondly, green
stuff composts much faster than dry stuff.

Works for me.

Andrew
--
Andrew Gabb
email: * * * Adelaide, South Australia
phone: +61 8 8342-1021
-----


try using a compost cage - http://opinonated-*******.blogspot.c...ost-cages.html