Hi everyone.
Just wondering if anyone knows the best fuel to use in 2 strokes, whether it
be lead replacement fuel (LRP) or Unleaded?
Being a car enthusiast I understand all the differences between the 2 fuels
and have heard many pros and cons for both, but basically LRP for old leaded
fuel cars, and unleaded for the newer ones, or even the optimax, and other
equivalents as long as it's from a well known servo with a high turnover.
Anyway, when it comes to 2 strokes I was wondering if ULP or LRP is best?
LRP does have a lubricant in it, so when adding the oil for 2 stroke, it
could only help.
In general LRP has a higher octane rating (or it did have).
Apart from being cheaper, I can't see any benefits of ULP. There is no cat
converters in 2 stroke exhausts for LRP to harm.
Just wondering if anyone has opinions, or has heard anything?

Thanks in advance.
Andrew

Depends on the design. Most modern two strokes are designed to run on ULP.
Check the manual. Some of these require high octane ULP.

I have a GoPed scooter with a Zenoah engine (similar to Ryobi whipper
snipper engine) that has high compression and advanced spark to give extra
performance and it definately requires the quality petrol with a good
quality oil. I run it at the book value 25:1 mix.

Leaded fuel will cause deposits that can create problems in engines, but
most of the times this is encountered with aircraft fuel which has about ten
times the lead content of normal old super. The main problem is a buildup of
lead on the valve stem causing the valve to stick. I don't see this occuring
with two strokes but they may build up deposits somewhere else. The
designers probably test their equipment with a range of fuels to see what
happens and how many warranty claims they will have to pay.

My chainsaw and whipper snipper both run on ULP and both are over ten years
old. They get used on my farm and get a good workout, the snipper in spring
and summer, the saw in winter to feed the wood stove. I run them a little
oil rich at about twenty to one rather than 25:1 so they smoke and I have to
replace plugs more often but this way they last. The mufflers could get a
buildup of ash, but I haven't had problems.

Use fresh good quality fuel so they start easier and only mix enough to
cover about two weeks at a time. I mix about five litres in a batch.

Hope this helps,
Peter



"Andrew G" wrote in message
...
Hi everyone.
Just wondering if anyone knows the best fuel to use in 2 strokes, whether
it
be lead replacement fuel (LRP) or Unleaded?
Being a car enthusiast I understand all the differences between the 2
fuels
and have heard many pros and cons for both, but basically LRP for old
leaded
fuel cars, and unleaded for the newer ones, or even the optimax, and other
equivalents as long as it's from a well known servo with a high turnover.
Anyway, when it comes to 2 strokes I was wondering if ULP or LRP is best?
LRP does have a lubricant in it, so when adding the oil for 2 stroke, it
could only help.
In general LRP has a higher octane rating (or it did have).
Apart from being cheaper, I can't see any benefits of ULP. There is no cat
converters in 2 stroke exhausts for LRP to harm.
Just wondering if anyone has opinions, or has heard anything?

Thanks in advance.
Andrew

Depends on the design. Most modern two strokes are designed to run on ULP.
Check the manual. Some of these require high octane ULP.

I have a GoPed scooter with a Zenoah engine (similar to Ryobi whipper
snipper engine) that has high compression and advanced spark to give extra
performance and it definately requires the quality petrol with a good
quality oil. I run it at the book value 25:1 mix.

Leaded fuel will cause deposits that can create problems in engines, but
most of the times this is encountered with aircraft fuel which has about ten
times the lead content of normal old super. The main problem is a buildup of
lead on the valve stem causing the valve to stick. I don't see this occuring
with two strokes but they may build up deposits somewhere else. The
designers probably test their equipment with a range of fuels to see what
happens and how many warranty claims they will have to pay.

My chainsaw and whipper snipper both run on ULP and both are over ten years
old. They get used on my farm and get a good workout, the snipper in spring
and summer, the saw in winter to feed the wood stove. I run them a little
oil rich at about twenty to one rather than 25:1 so they smoke and I have to
replace plugs more often but this way they last. The mufflers could get a
buildup of ash, but I haven't had problems.

Use fresh good quality fuel so they start easier and only mix enough to
cover about two weeks at a time. I mix about five litres in a batch.

Hope this helps,
Peter



"Andrew G" wrote in message
...
Hi everyone.
Just wondering if anyone knows the best fuel to use in 2 strokes, whether
it
be lead replacement fuel (LRP) or Unleaded?
Being a car enthusiast I understand all the differences between the 2
fuels
and have heard many pros and cons for both, but basically LRP for old
leaded
fuel cars, and unleaded for the newer ones, or even the optimax, and other
equivalents as long as it's from a well known servo with a high turnover.
Anyway, when it comes to 2 strokes I was wondering if ULP or LRP is best?
LRP does have a lubricant in it, so when adding the oil for 2 stroke, it
could only help.
In general LRP has a higher octane rating (or it did have).
Apart from being cheaper, I can't see any benefits of ULP. There is no cat
converters in 2 stroke exhausts for LRP to harm.
Just wondering if anyone has opinions, or has heard anything?

Thanks in advance.
Andrew

g'day andrew,

use the unleaded mate especially for the smaller mower etc.,. type
engines they don't need a high octane fuel. all my small engines run
very well on ulp.

len

snipped
--
happy gardening
'it works for me it could work for you,'

"in the end ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do" but consider others and the environment
http://home.dnet.aunz.com/gardnlen/

g'day bushy,

i think i may start doing your trick withthe heavier oil mix i'm an ex
mower mechanic so always stipulated that at the minimum people
followed maufacturers recommendations on mixes. but when i moved to
rural one of my neighbours a tree lopper says he runs his chain saws
with a heavier mix says plugs are cheaper than engines. i have a new
brushcutter and they recommend 50:1 so may opt for 32:1 i think i
reckon all they have done to make it appear like 50:1 is good enough
is to make it run richer it uses lots more fuel than the old 25:1
machine.

over in the USA they mostly seem like they are trying to run their
machines on 100:1 in majority of cases against manufacturer
recommendations and they just won't be told that they could very well
be diminishing the design life of their engines. i think the thinking
is that the machines will be less smokey and more environmentaly
acceptable.

take care

len

snipped
--
happy gardening
'it works for me it could work for you,'

"in the end ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do" but consider others and the environment
http://home.dnet.aunz.com/gardnlen/

"Andrew G" wrote in message
...
Hi everyone.
Just wondering if anyone knows the best fuel to use in 2 strokes, whether
it
be lead replacement fuel (LRP) or Unleaded?
Being a car enthusiast I understand all the differences between the 2
fuels
and have heard many pros and cons for both, but basically LRP for old
leaded
fuel cars, and unleaded for the newer ones, or even the optimax, and other
equivalents as long as it's from a well known servo with a high turnover.
Anyway, when it comes to 2 strokes I was wondering if ULP or LRP is best?
LRP does have a lubricant in it, so when adding the oil for 2 stroke, it
could only help.
In general LRP has a higher octane rating (or it did have).
Apart from being cheaper, I can't see any benefits of ULP. There is no cat
converters in 2 stroke exhausts for LRP to harm.
Just wondering if anyone has opinions, or has heard anything?

Thanks in advance.
Andrew

Hello Andew,
I have done a little research into this. Use unleaded
Petrol.
I think that using LRP might cause some pinging etc

USE 2 stroke Oil not Engine type Oil as 4 stroke will
not stay suspended in the Petrol. Also a good
idea is to add the Oil to the can first (200ml oil to 5
Litre of ULP)
For a Lawn Mower, Brush Cutter etc. (25:1)
Half fill with the petrol. Agitate the can then fill her
up.

Then whenever refuelling the engine agitate the can
again to
make sure that the oil is well mixed as the Oil will
gradually
'clump' i.e. form Oil pockets in the Petrol over time.

Cheers,
Mitchell

Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I seems I will go with the ULP.
The reason I asked the original question is that both my "get to work car"
and my weekender run on LRP, while the family car runs on ULP, and in
general I fill up my 2 stroke fuel when I am in one of my cars, so it was
just easier to fill the car, then throw a litre in the can at the same time,
rather than get it from a different pump, as I only get small amounts due to
the fuel going stale.
My Father, who is a mechanic said it wouldn't hurt to run LRP, but I thought
I'd do more research.
He and I had both heard stories of LRP eating through fuel lines, wrecking
seals in carbies, however he had never experienced it. LRP in old leaded
cars, and ULP in ULP cars, and you can't go wrong he said.
I know that in general ULP was brought in for purposes of the environment,
but those cars had to run a cat convertor. Leaded of course was bad for the
environment, but the purpose of lead was to lubricate the valve stems/seals.
A good sign of a nice mixture setting in a leaded car was a grey exhaust
pipe, that grey was lead deposits.
AN old trick to get a unleaded car running better was to put a tank or 2 of
leaded through. It would burn the insides of the cat convertor out, giving a
free flower exhaust, but this was illegal the ULP without a cat was actually
more detrimental environment than a leaded car.
Anyway, leaded is phased out, with LRP running a valve lubricant in place of
lead.
I have ran ULP with a valve lubricant (Flashlube) as an experiment both my
cars, but the result was underpowered and pinging, therefore ULP having a
lower octane rating, which I was told that anyway.
So I could see no harm in running LRP, but thought I would see.
My whipper (ryobi) suggests 25:1, chainsaw 40:1, and the other whipper
(stihl) 50:1, but only that when using stihl oil.
In general I stick to 25:1, same as our workplace goes with. The ryobi has
run that since I was at school when I bought it, so about 11yrs, with no
carbon buildup, and not many plug replacements. I do know running a 2 stroke
at low revs causes them to build up carbon in the exhaust port.
I may as well go with ULP, but I will check the octane ratings, and if LRP
is more on the mark than ULP I will go with that.
It was interesting that about 5yr ago I went to get pre-mixed 2 stroke at
the servo. I asked what fuel was used and it was ULP. Leaded was still
around then, ands the attendent said it was illegal for them to sell leaded
2 stroke premixed. I never asked why, but wish I did.
It was interesting about the person who replied mentioning that aircraft
fuel has a lot of lead. This I did not know, but I did know running avgas
that had a real high octane rating in car engines that weren't equipped with
hardened valve seals/seats, would burn the valves out, due to lack of
lubrication. Of course this avgas is illegal on the street, but many rally
cars/hill climb cars, and track cars use it.
Thanks again for all help.

It all depends what you are talking about. I have been riding go-ped scooter for the past 8 years and I have figured out that using 95 octane unleaded gasoline with a 45:1 Gas:Oil ratio(recommend ashless semi-synthetic 2-stroke motor oil) on my Zenoah engine has kept it alive for *8* years with only changing spark plug(once every 2 years recommended) and some other parts such as screws pull start and other upgrades like high performance products (carburetor, air filter,etc. but not manditory for more speed.) If you are not using a goped or other motorized stand up scooter, i cant help you unless it is a wave runner. NEVER USE LEAD REPLACEMENT BECAUSE IT COULD MESS UP YOUR MOTOR. If you are not using a goped or own one, you should get one because they are cheap $400-1000 (20-35 MPH/32-56 KM/h) by visiting www.toybrokersracing.com www.getaped.com www.gomeyer.com www.gopednation.com

It all depends what you are talking about. I have been riding go-ped
scooter for the past 8 years and I have figured out that using 95
octane unleaded gasoline with a 45:1 Gas:Oil ratio(recommend ashless
semi-synthetic 2-stroke motor oil) on my Zenoah engine has kept it
alive for *8* years with only changing spark plug(once every 2 years
recommended) and some other parts such as screws pull start and other
upgrades like high performance products (carburetor, air filter,etc.
but not manditory for more speed.) If you are not using a goped or
other motorized stand up scooter, i cant help you unless it is a wave
runner. NEVER USE LEAD REPLACEMENT BECAUSE IT COULD MESS UP YOUR
MOTOR. If you are not using a goped or own one, you should get one
because they are cheap $400-1000 (20-35 MPH/32-56 KM/h) by visiting
www.toybrokersracing.com www.getaped.com www.gomeyer.com
www.gopednation.com
Andrew G Wrote:
Hi everyone.
Just wondering if anyone knows the best fuel to use in 2 strokes,
whether it
be lead replacement fuel (LRP) or Unleaded?
Being a car enthusiast I understand all the differences between the 2
fuels
and have heard many pros and cons for both, but basically LRP for old
leaded
fuel cars, and unleaded for the newer ones, or even the optimax, and
other
equivalents as long as it's from a well known servo with a high
turnover.
Anyway, when it comes to 2 strokes I was wondering if ULP or LRP is
best?
LRP does have a lubricant in it, so when adding the oil for 2 stroke,
it
could only help.
In general LRP has a higher octane rating (or it did have).
Apart from being cheaper, I can't see any benefits of ULP. There is no
cat
converters in 2 stroke exhausts for LRP to harm.
Just wondering if anyone has opinions, or has heard anything?

Thanks in advance.
Andrew


--
gopedmaniac

mowers. chain-saws & brushcutters etc.,. only need low octane so ulp
is the way to go, no need for ocatane boosting with this equipment.

len

snipped
--
happy gardening
'it works for me it could work for you,'

"in the end ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do" but consider others and the environment
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gardenlen1/

my e/mail addies have spam filters you should know what to delete before you send.

Basic, it doesnt matter if its a 4 stroke or 2 stroke, simple rules
Anything with a catalytic converter in the exhaust uses unleaded
regardless of the CR
Any small industrial or stationary 4 stroke uses unleaded.
Any standard 2 stroke uses unleaded.

2 stroke engines have low compression ratio like 6:1, as do stationary
or light industrial 4 strokes such as generators and lawn mowers at
little more CR than the 2 stroke.

Many 4 strokes in motor vehicles are higher compression ratio by
comparison at avg 9:1 CR, but not all are the high.

If you use leaded in anything with a catalytic converter youll
overheat the converter and kill it.
If the compression ratio is lower than about 9:1 in any engine (such
as those above) and you use leaded fuel the engines will coke up with
large deposits.
The plug will foul sooner and the conductive build up on the
insulator will cause spark leakage and poor plug performance through
most of the plugs life.
(Hard starts)
In the industrial 4 stroke it will coke up the valves, in a Briggs
stratton side valve engine the valves will start clipping the head.

The low CR engine is simply too cool inside and the lead sticks to the
cool surfaces and ends up as a clay brown solid build up that gets
glazed around the exhaust side and ex valve to a hard toffee.