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[IBC] Question and advice please ... Bonsai Soil
Several questions for the group if I may .... learning curve in progress.
Bonsai "soil" .... I would like to try my hand at making my own mix if possible .. A. I have found several recipes in books and on line ... go with what is "local" type soil for your area and a close match to the trees needs ??? B. Sifted / graded soil .... I'm sure I can locate by mail order a set of "Sifters" to grade out the mix as per all the books I have read so far ... Is there a brand / type that the group has found that works well and does not cost two arms and a leg ? OR ... I "may" be able to locate the approximate sizes of hardware cloth I need to make my own ... 1/8" .. 1/4" .. 1/2" C. Is Aquarium gravel good to use in the bottom of the pots ? OK .. enough for now ... more questions to follow for sure. In the Spirit of Bonsai, Gordon in Greensboro ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Gordon Saunders wrote:
Several questions for the group if I may .... learning curve in progress. Bonsai "soil" .... I would like to try my hand at making my own mix if possible .. A. I have found several recipes in books and on line ... go with what is "local" type soil for your area and a close match to the trees needs ??? No. Local "dirt" is not good for bonsai. To start, go with one of the "standard" recipes. You'll find some in the Knowledge base of www.internetbonsaiclub.org B. Sifted / graded soil .... I'm sure I can locate by mail order a set of "Sifters" to grade out the mix as per all the books I have read so far ... Is there a brand / type that the group has found that works well and does not cost two arms and a leg ? OR ... I "may" be able to locate the approximate sizes of hardware cloth I need to make my own ... 1/8" .. 1/4" .. 1/2" A.M. Leonard and Gardener's Supply both sell a 3-piece, nested set for about $20. If you buy the same things when they're called "bonsai sifting screens" they'll cost at least $40. 1/2" is a bit big. C. Is Aquarium gravel good to use in the bottom of the pots ? Putting a layer of larger gravel on the bottom is no longer standard practice. The physics of water percolating through the soil causes it to "pool" at the interface between the finer soil and the coarser soil. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Gordon,
Good comments from Jim. If you plan to do larger volumes of soil then homemade sifters are great because you can make them larger. I like about 12" x 18" by 3" deep (30 x 45 x 8 cm) since this is about as large as I can handle without killing myself. If you make the wood frames tapered then they can nest and you can capture the different grades in one pass. 1/2" is a bit large (I use it to get rid of the big junk), the hard to find 3 wires to inch hardware cloth is available from McMaster-Carr. Aquarium gravel would make a good, although expensive, soil component as long as it is not full of salt. Depending upon the size of pot and type of tree it might even be a main component. However, you can probably find lower cost components at the landscape supply yard - fine shredded bark, crushed lava if they have it, turface, coarse sand, etc. Marty ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Gordon Saunders wrote:
Several questions for the group if I may .... learning curve in progress. Bonsai "soil" .... I would like to try my hand at making my own mix if possible .. A. I have found several recipes in books and on line ... go with what is "local" type soil for your area and a close match to the trees needs ??? AND your climate if is dry damp or mild |
Gordon, follow all advise above. Just dont use shredded bark in the bottom of your bonsai pot. It will rot quickly and clot the drainage.
Perlite is a commercial brand aggregate that is easily found in the market and could be a good alternative. Gene Quote:
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In a message dated 9/6/2005 4:22:51 AM Central Daylight Time, writes: In some of the books it is recommended to layer soil in bonsai pots. With larger particles toward the bottom and getting smaller going up. This was probably done to promote good drainage, BUT, we no longer do this and just use the proper soil (depending upon the species of plant, stage of development, etc.) for the entire pot, I find it interesting that the students of a major artist are still taught this method. And many member of my club swear by putting a drainage layer in pots. Not trying to start any arguements just an observation. Bill ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Bill Neff wrote:
In a message dated 9/6/2005 4:22:51 AM Central Daylight Time, writes: In some of the books it is recommended to layer soil in bonsai pots. With larger particles toward the bottom and getting smaller going up. This was probably done to promote good drainage, BUT, we no longer do this and just use the proper soil (depending upon the species of plant, stage of development, etc.) for the entire pot, I find it interesting that the students of a major artist are still taught this method. And many member of my club swear by putting a drainage layer in pots. Not trying to start any arguements just an observation. Bill Well, it has worked for "hundreds" of years. We know now that water flows through much easier if there are NO widely different soil layers, but it probably doesn't make a lot of difference in the long run. Roots, the actual flow of water through the soil, the actual act of planting the tree in the pot, and other factors probably mix most of the layers (except perhaps for the worst one -- the large pebbles in the bottom) anyway. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:10 PM, Bill Neff wrote:
In a message dated 9/6/2005 4:22:51 AM Central Daylight Time, writes: I find it interesting that the students of a major artist are still taught this method. Bill Boon is my teacher. He is certainly "a major artist", and he says to put a drainage layer in the bottom of our pots. I believe it is standard practice in Japan. Sometime I hear or read that layered soils are bad because they will create "perched water tables". I think every horticultural student "learns" this. I would never want to buck science (even though that seems to be a major sport in our country right now), but I would ask the anti-layerers why layered soils work so well. After all, the best and healthiest bonsai in the world have layered soils; so, why do they work? Actually, I am only mildly curious about it. I didn't layer the soil for my first couple of decades. Now I do, using Boon's soil recipes, & my trees are healthier than ever. Jim ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
First - I believe the science behind perched water tables.
Second - I use a drainage layer in my pots. Method - My drainage layer is composed 1 - 3 layers of 1/4 - 3/8" (6 - 9 mm) crushed lava with the main function to keep the finer soil mix above from sifting out through the 1/4" (6 mm) hardware cloth I use to cover the drainage holes or the bottoms of my grow boxes. My finer soil (1/16" - 1/4" = 1 - 6 mm) goes on top of this and settles down into the top of the drainage layer. Observation - The drainage layer is generally very heavily colonized with roots, sometimes far more heavily than the rest of the soil. This agrees with some of the pictures that I see of repotting in Bonsai Today of the articles translated from Japan. Hypothesis - Roots grow well in the drainage layer because it is moist, but not wet. The slightly perched water table supplies the drainage layer with moisture, but the coarser soil in the drainage layer prevents pooling of water at the bottom of the pot (I water almost every day). Conclusion - With my soil mix (lava and bark), climate, types of trees, and watering schedule the thin drainage layer works. Your results may vary and will depend upon your soil mix, climate, trees, and watering schedule. Marty Spokane, WA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Of course a perched water table can be a bad thing, but I don't think that
bonsai pots with layered soil end up with enough of a defined layer size differential to actually create one; I think the layers get somewhat blended, especially with all the action of working soil in around the roots, etc. when potting. Therefore, I think that layered soil in a bonsai pot does no harm. Many methods are passed along as the way a thing is done because that is the way it has always been done, and if the way it has always been done seems to work (or does no harm even if not necessarily beneficial), then there is no reason not to continue to pass the traditional method along. Jim, I am curious, you say that now your trees are healthier that ever using Boon's soil mix and layered soil. Did you also use Boon's mix in your pre-layering days, and was your treatment of your trees otherwise identical back then? (Watering & fertilizing regime, etc.) If not, then I don't think that the improved tree health can necessarily be attributed to the layering of your soil. It may be that Boon's soil mix is just superior to your old mix, and your other care methods may have improved. Marty layers his soil and notices a preponderance of roots in the bottom of his pots in the drainage layer. I don't layer my soil, and I use a mix similar to Marty's, i.e. crushed lava rock in the 1/8" to 3/8" range, and I also notice a preponderance of roots in the bottom of my pots. I think this is a normal situation because it is always moister there, drainage layer or not. My conclusion is that if one uses a coarse, free draining soil mix layering the soil will probably do no harm, and will also probably be of no additional benefit. Regards, Roger Snipes Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gremel" Sometime I hear or read that layered soils are bad because they will create "perched water tables". I think every horticultural student "learns" this. I would never want to buck science (even though that seems to be a major sport in our country right now), but I would ask the anti-layerers why layered soils work so well. After all, the best and healthiest bonsai in the world have layered soils; so, why do they work? Actually, I am only mildly curious about it. I didn't layer the soil for my first couple of decades. Now I do, using Boon's soil recipes, & my trees are healthier than ever. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
I've also noticed that all of my pots, whether layered or not, have most of
the roots at the bottom. After all, roots do grow downwards so that makes sense. I don't bother layering (the ones that are layered were givent to me like that). I do however put a layer of pebbles at the bottom-but that's because I don't use screens on the drainage holes. When I dig in the yard here, the soils aren't layered and the trees do just fine :). Susan marsh __________________________________________________ _______________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfeeŽ Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy...n.asp?cid=3963 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On Sep 11, 2005, at 9:43 AM, Roger Snipes wrote:
Of course a perched water table can be a bad thing, Maybe, maybe not for bonsai. I don't think we know the answer to this. Layering bonsai soil is a tradition used by the very best bonsaists in the world. Many methods are passed along as the way a thing is done because that is the way it has always been done, and if the way it has always been done seems to work (or does no harm even if not necessarily beneficial), then there is no reason not to continue to pass the traditional method along. It is very appropriate for us to think about, question and experiment with alternatives to the many bonsai traditions. But I think we should be cautious about assuming that our ideas are superior to those of others. Sometimes a practice is correct, even if the explanation of it is erroneous. For example, many years ago I read, in an English language version of a Japanese bonsai book, a description of how to anneal copper wire . It said to place the wire in a fire to "drive out the water" in the wire. Well, there was no water in the copper. Maybe it was a translation error. We could laugh at the silly explanation for annealing, but the advice, the procedure, was correct. Putting the wire in the fire would anneal it (Well, it is a little more complicated than that, but copper is annealed by heating it). Jim, I am curious, you say that now your trees are healthier that ever using Boon's soil mix and layered soil. Boon's mixes are (1) equal parts of akadama, lava rock & pumice for conifers, and (2) 2 parts akadama, 1 part lava rock & 1 part pumice for deciduous trees. Boon also adds a little each of decomposed granite and charcoal. I haven't started to use DG or charcoal, but I probably will. I resisted using akadama ("It's expensive, I don't need dirt from Japan!") until Mas Imazumi, my first teacher, told me that everything grows better in it. So, I started using it. Later I became Boon's student & adopted his mixes. Please note that there is no peat moss, leaf mold, bark or other form of organic material in these mixes. I understand that Boon has clients throughout the many climate zones of the US using these mixes with great success. I have experimented with other ingredients and I will continue to do so, but I usually have too many distractions to be able to do really good trials that yield really conclusive results. Did you also use Boon's mix in your pre-layering days, no and was your treatment of your trees otherwise identical back then? no. I started my nursery 10 years ago. Some things have been very successful, some abject failures. My practices & procedures have improved spasmodically - sometimes I learn a lot in a short time, sometimes my learning is almost imperceptible, but after several years I realize that, somehow (osmosis?) I know something that I didn't used to. So, my "treatment" has evolved & we could have endless discussions about whether there is a good basis for whatever I am doing. Jim ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Sue Marsh wrote:
I've also noticed that all of my pots, whether layered or not, have most of the roots at the bottom. After all, roots do grow downwards so that makes sense. I don't bother layering (the ones that are layered were givent to me like that). I do however put a layer of pebbles at the bottom-but that's because I don't use screens on the drainage holes. When I dig in the yard here, the soils aren't layered and the trees do just fine :). Susan marsh Yards and pots are a bit different. HOWEVER, natural soil is, in fact, layered. The upper layers are mostly organic, the next layers are mostly mineral, and the lower layers are _all_ mineral. As I said earlier, it probably doesn't really matter if you layer your soil, but it's easier not to. :-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - People, when Columbus discovered this country, it was plum full of nuts and berries. And I'm right here to tell you (that) the berries are just about all gone. -- Uncle Dave Macon, musician ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
It is very appropriate for us to think about, question and experiment
with alternatives to the many bonsai traditions. But I think we should be cautious about assuming that our ideas are superior to those of others. Sometimes a practice is correct, even if the explanation of it is erroneous. Jim, I agree that we should be open to question bonsai traditions and experiment with alternatives. I don't assume that any of my ideas are superior, and if thats the way my post came across, it isn't what was meant. Well, there was no water in the copper. Maybe it was a translation error. We could laugh at the silly explanation for annealing, but the advice, the procedure, was correct. Exactly, some things are done for the wrong reasons, but prouduce desireable results, and some things are done for stated reasons that have no real effect, but produce no harm. Soil layering may or may not fall into that category. Please note that there is no peat moss, leaf mold, bark or other form of organic material in these mixes. I understand that Boon has clients throughout the many climate zones of the US using these mixes with great success. I am familiar with Boon's soil mix, and know it to be a good mix. I guess I am wondering if your trees would do just as well with unlayered Boon's mix as with layered Boon's mix. but after several years I realize that, somehow (osmosis?) I know something that I didn't used to. So, my "treatment" has evolved & we could have endless discussions about whether there is a good basis for whatever I am doing. I agree, and that is one of the fun things about bonsai, experimenting with old and new procedures and discussing the process and results with fellow enthusiasts. Regards, Roger Snipes Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
I too have always noticed that the bottom of pots are filled with roots first.
So in regards to perched water tables and layered soils, is there a possibility that layered soils will create a moist layer in the middle of the pot, and thus an artificial "bottom of the pot" thereby filling that layer with roots first. thanks, -Ethan ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Funny that this should come up just now. I'm to give a talk on "soils"
for my Gainesville Bonsai Society this weekend. I took this as an opportunity to do a little experimentation. I built a box about (4" x 4" x 6" high) out of clear plastic, marking the height on the inside for measuring. The bottom was made out of my standard pot screen (7x7 space plastic canvas). I figured that if there was a perch, it would be at the screen and that this would most nearly represent my potting condition. As a result, any of the "soil" material which did not go through a standard window screen, did not perch. Material tested we pea gravel, perlite (expanded shale, I think), vermiculite (expanded mica?), baked clay (similar to Turface), shredded pine bark and peat moss (unscreened, i.e. straight out of the bag). Only the peat moss perched over the screen, about 1" high. I then tried the peat moss over both the pea gravel and the perlite (two different tests). As advertised, the peat moss perched over both but as the water passed slowly through the peat moss, the pea gravel and perlite both drained quickly. Please note that the tests were made with total bottom screening. I have not yet done the tests with just a partial drain hole in the bottom. That might make a difference. My analysis of the tests is that perching can indeed occur in bonsai pots but the "soil" material would have to be fine enough that capillary action can take place. If no fines are allowed, no drainage problems should occur in a properly built pot. However, if a high percentage of fine material is used in the mix (such as peat moss for azalea mixes) then a drainage layer might be a positive benefit. In this case, I think I would use a deeper than normal pot to allow the drainage layer enough space to be effective and give the roots some breathing space. It was fun to see "inside" a pot!! Have fun - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Roger Snipes ] Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2005 12:44 PM Subject: Question and advice please ... Bonsai Soil Of course a perched water table can be a bad thing, but I don't think that bonsai pots with layered soil end up with enough of a defined layer size differential to actually create one; I think the layers get somewhat blended, especially with all the action of working soil in around the roots, etc. when potting. Therefore, I think that layered soil in a bonsai pot does no harm. ---------- CLIP ---------- Marty layers his soil and notices a preponderance of roots in the bottom of his pots in the drainage layer. I don't layer my soil, and I use a mix similar to Marty's, i.e. crushed lava rock in the 1/8" to 3/8" range, and I also notice a preponderance of roots in the bottom of my pots. I think this is a normal situation because it is always moister there, drainage layer or not. My conclusion is that if one uses a coarse, free draining soil mix layering the soil will probably do no harm, and will also probably be of no additional benefit. ---------- CLIP ---------- ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On Sep 11, 2005, at 7:35 PM, Roger Snipes wrote:
I am familiar with Boon's soil mix, and know it to be a good mix. I guess I am wondering if your trees would do just as well with unlayered Boon's mix as with layered Boon's mix. First, I should clarify that I am only using two layers: a layer of 5/16 lava (perhaps 3/8" deep?) in the bottom, then Boon's mix to fill the pot. Sometimes I will add smaller soil particles or chopped spagnum on top if I feel the particular plant needs more protection from being dried out. I have not tried to evaluate how the drainage layer affects my trees. Perhaps Boon has. I have simply adopted it as my standard practice. I also follow Boon's method of repotting, which is different that whatever I had seen before. I highly recommend that you take a repotting workshop with Boon, if you get the opportunity. It isn't that he has secret methods, just that he knows precisely what steps he wants done, in what order and to what degree. And the results are wonderful. I will always have more to learn, but I am now confident that I can quickly & competently repot my trees (& it only took me 25 years to learn how!). Jim ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
The short answer from my experiment is "yes". The layer of peat moss
was still wet this morning (not moist but actually holding free water). I watered last night and included the experiment box. Holding water overnight in one layer is not free draining. Whether the wet layer will act as an artificial "bottom of the pot" is open to conjecture but the wet layer can't be good for the roots. Have fun - jay Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a - -----Original Message----- From: Ethan Smith ] I too have always noticed that the bottom of pots are filled with roots first. So in regards to perched water tables and layered soils, is there a possibility that layered soils will create a moist layer in the middle of the pot, and thus an artificial "bottom of the pot" thereby filling that layer with roots first. thanks, -Ethan ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
Jim Lewis wrote:
I find it interesting that the students of a major artist are still taught this method. And many member of my club swear by putting a drainage layer in pots. Not trying to start any arguements just an observation. Bill Well, it has worked for "hundreds" of years. We know now that water flows through much easier if there are NO widely different soil layers, but it probably doesn't make a lot of difference in the long run. Roots, the actual flow of water through the soil, the actual act of planting the tree in the pot, and other factors probably mix most of the layers (except perhaps for the worst one -- the large pebbles in the bottom) anyway. moreover small particles tends to be carried down by watering and clog if the mix is all the same saze , and roots tends to run deep on theh pot surface this is why for a better drainage and aeration and watering is adviced to have a layer of coarse drainage .. if roots rot sets in is a real pain in the neck and when you loose a valuable plant you have understood how useful it is, for once and for all! ! |
Jim Gremel wrote:
On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:10 PM, Bill Neff wrote: In a message dated 9/6/2005 4:22:51 AM Central Daylight Time, writes: I find it interesting that the students of a major artist are still taught this method. Bill Boon is my teacher. He is certainly "a major artist", and he says to put a drainage layer in the bottom of our pots. I believe it is standard practice in Japan. Sometime I hear or read that layered soils are bad because they will create "perched water tables". I think every horticultural student "learns" this. I would never want to buck science (even though that seems to be a major sport in our country right now), but I would ask the anti-layerers why layered soils work so well. After all, the best and healthiest bonsai in the world have layered soils; so, why do they work? Actually, I am only mildly curious about it. I didn't layer the soil for my first couple of decades. Now I do, using Boon's soil recipes, & my trees are healthier than ever. Jim ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ Could you tell me where I could find information on Boon's soil recipes? Thanks Gordon B Aotearoa/New Zealand On the other hand, you have different fingers. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
For a very good discussion of soil mix, and Boon's mix in particular, take a
look at this thread on the IBC Gallery he http://internetbonsaiclub.org/compon.../topic,5966.0/ Regards, Roger Snipes Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon Bowers" Could you tell me where I could find information on Boon's soil recipes? Thanks ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
On Sep 15, 2005, at 5:15 AM, Gordon Bowers wrote:
Could you tell me where I could find information on Boon's soil recipes? Thanks Gordon B Aotearoa/New Zealand Earlier in the thread I wrote: Boon's mixes are (1) equal parts of akadama, lava rock & pumice for conifers, and (2) 2 parts akadama, 1 part lava rock & 1 part pumice for deciduous trees. Boon also adds a little each of decomposed granite and charcoal. I haven't started to use DG or charcoal, but I probably will. Also, Carl Bergstrom, a Boon student (or Student Of Boon, SOB, as we sometimes refer to ourselves) had a lengthy thread in the Main Gallery on February 9, 2005, titled The Importance of Proper Soil. He discussed what his experience was with Boon's soil & showed many images. Jim, who does as Boon says (well..... mostly) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
I have followed this thread: there is no optimal soil mix. It is ALWAYS a combination of environment, species, and the individual practitioner's approach to watering. For this reason, most of us are use different component to meet our particular needs.
I will say this to the group: less is always more. Do not ignore soil science; however, simplify the science while focusing intensely on the art. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob -----Original Message----- From: Jim Gremel To: Sent: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 09:38:51 -0700 Subject: [IBC] Question and advice please ... Bonsai Soil On Sep 15, 2005, at 5:15 AM, Gordon Bowers wrote: Could you tell me where I could find information on Boon's soil recipes? Thanks Gordon B Aotearoa/New Zealand Earlier in the thread I wrote: Boon's mixes are (1) equal parts of akadama, lava rock & pumice for conifers, and (2) 2 parts akadama, 1 part lava rock & 1 part pumice for deciduous trees. Boon also adds a little each of decomposed granite and charcoal. I haven't started to use DG or charcoal, but I probably will. Also, Carl Bergstrom, a Boon student (or Student Of Boon, SOB, as we sometimes refer to ourselves) had a lengthy thread in the Main Gallery on February 9, 2005, titled The Importance of Proper Soil. He discussed what his experience was with Boon's soil & showed many images. Jim, who does as Boon says (well..... mostly) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
I have found resources for the lava rock. Can anyone recommend a
good source for agricultural pumice? Alan Walker http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org -----Original Message----- On Sep 15, 2005, at 5:15 AM, Gordon Bowers wrote: Could you tell me where I could find information on Boon's soil recipes? Thanks Gordon B Aotearoa/New Zealand From: Jim Gremel Earlier in the thread I wrote: Boon's mixes are (1) equal parts of akadama, lava rock & pumice for conifers, and (2) 2 parts akadama, 1 part lava rock & 1 part pumice for deciduous trees. Boon also adds a little each of decomposed granite and charcoal. I haven't started to use DG or charcoal, but I probably will. Also, Carl Bergstrom, a Boon student (or Student Of Boon, SOB, as we sometimes refer to ourselves) had a lengthy thread in the Main Gallery on February 9, 2005, titled The Importance of Proper Soil. He discussed what his experience was with Boon's soil & showed many images. Jim, who does as Boon says (well..... mostly) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Bob Pastorio++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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