[IBC] Stressed Juniper - deadwood/rot treatment planning
 

John:

For your benefit and the shared benefit of those in the group who are interested in deadwood restoration, I am replying to your email. I hope that you do not mind.

Your tree's condition is not serious. The hollow is rotting because it extends below soil level. So, a couple of basic things need to be done:

1. Remove all of the rotting wood with Japanese Gravers or a similar set of tools (carving knives). Be certain to scrap away ALL of the decay.
2. Dig down approximately 2 inches into the soil beneath the inside of the hollow, exposing the deadwood. You are likely to find some live tissue at the base: do not damage this tissue.
3. Allow the hollow to dry for 7 days.
4. Apply lime sulfur (not diluted) to the now dry wood and allow it to dry.
5. Apply Minwax Wood Hardener to the dry wood. I would suggest that you apply 2 coats.
6. The portion of the hollow that was exposed by digging 2 inches into the soil needs a water barrier. I would suggest using Minwax's two part wood repair. In effect, it is like Bondo used to for automotive body repairs. Carefully spread this, or Cuprinol, over the deadwood that will be BELOW soil level. This will stop water from be wicked up into the hollow.
7. After it dries, replace the soil.
8. I would suggest, from a design perspective, that you extend the hollow up to the first branch remnant (the branch stub). I would be certain to taper off the hollow at that point.
9. Every year, apply a coat of Minwax Wood hardener, and periodically check the subterranean portion of the hollow to ensure the seal is holding.

This is what I would do.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
members.aol.com/iasnob

-----Original Message-----
From: John Dhom
To:
Sent: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 16:55:26 -0500
Subject: [IBC] Stressed Juniper - deadwood/rot treatment planning


Hi Michael,

There are close-up shots of base at soil line in original post. Appreciate your kind offer to comment on restoration.

--
Best,
John

Nashville area
Zone 6, Sunset 33

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