Excuse my ignorance but I am new to bonsai and I do not understand why soil-less mixes are used in the first place. I thought plants needed soil and organic matter. If it is not too much trouble, can someone explain why soiless mixes are used and let me know if there are exceptions? I live in South Florida where it is usually quite hot . I have to water many of my plants daily and some even need watering more than once a day. What mix should I be using then? So far, I have been using the Miracle Grow potting soil with success. I add a liitle Turface to it at times if drainage seems to be an issue but not much. I did purchase some pumice stones as well to add a little of this to the mix since I hear it causes roots to divide and helps develop them better.

Thanks and God bless!
Martha
Zone 10

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In a message dated 9/30/2005 5:55:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes:

Excuse my ignorance but I am new to bonsai and I do not understand why
soil-less mixes are used in the first place. I thought plants needed soil and
organic matter. If it is not too much trouble, can someone explain why soiless
mixes are used and let me know if there are exceptions? I live in South
Florida where it is usually quite hot . I have to water many of my plants daily and
some even need watering more than once a day. What mix should I be using
then? So far, I have been using the Miracle Grow potting soil with success. I
add a liitle Turface to it at times if drainage seems to be an issue but not
much. I did purchase some pumice stones as well to add a little of this to the
mix since I hear it causes roots to divide and helps develop them better.

Soiless mixes are used because
They drain better and wet roots cause more plant death than anything else.
They are generally sterile and don't support soil disease as much

Plants need NPK and traace elements which can be supplied by chemical
fertilizers, have you ever seen Disney Epcot Land Pavillion?

A proper balance of turface, pumice and composted pine bark will hold
moisture for a day in my yard on the space coast

The composted pine bark is organic, just not "soil."

Your mix should depend upon your species. Some of the Ficus and other
tropicals do fine in a heavy mix like the Miracle Grow

Billy on the Florida Space Coast (but visiting my daughter in Sunrise)

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In the discussion of soils I admit to some concern
that I will do the wrong thing, being very new to
bonsai care as some of the others are.

How do you know what is right? I've been through books
and on IBC and elsewhere and everyone seems to say the
same thing: you need to adjust what your soil mix to a
variety of factors, but I don't find any enumeration
of what works best where and with what trees.

Most books suggest 1 part loam, 1 part sand, 1 part
humus. Obviously there are "better" mixes based on
location and plants, so in an effort to help focus in
(at least for myself let me give some info and
solicit opinions for my conditions:

I have two junipers (a Sargents @ 8 yrs and a
procumbens nana @ 5 yrs), a carmona microphylla (tea
tree @ 2-3 yrs), and a very young pithecolobium
flexicaule (Texas ebony).

I live smack on the dotted line between USDA Zone 5a
and 5b.

What kind of soil mix should I be considering when I
repot each of these in the future? The Sargents needs
it now by the look of the roots, the nana soon, and
the tea tree can wait til spring. The ebony needs to
grow some more before repotting.

BTW, I have a bag of bonsai soil as well as some
coarse sand and some red lava stone. What else do I
need to add to my soil resources?

Thanks for your help!

Kevin Payne
Quincy, IL



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I did purchase some pumice

I am jalous!

Zone 10

I am so jalous!!!

:-)))

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Kevin Nikolai Payne wrote:
In the discussion of soils I admit to some concern
that I will do the wrong thing, being very new to
bonsai care as some of the others are.

How do you know what is right? I've been through books
and on IBC and elsewhere and everyone seems to say the
same thing: you need to adjust what your soil mix to a
variety of factors, but I don't find any enumeration
of what works best where and with what trees.

I'm afraid that only time and experience will teach you
this. Lose a few trees to root rot, or Verticilium wilt, or
.. . . and you learn what soils different species do or don't
like.

There are too many variables for anyone to tell somewone
else what is "best." "Best" will differ with geography,
climate, species of tree, and a long, long list of other
variables.


Most books suggest 1 part loam, 1 part sand, 1 part
humus. Obviously there are "better" mixes based on
location and plants, so in an effort to help focus in
(at least for myself let me give some info and
solicit opinions for my conditions:

I have two junipers (a Sargents @ 8 yrs and a
procumbens nana @ 5 yrs),

FAST draining soil. 100% Turface (or clone) works well.
Fertilize with balanced fertilizer with micronutrients.
Keep soil _just_ moist.

a carmona microphylla (tea tree @ 2-3 yrs),

I'm less familiar with this one, but suspect a heavier soil
-- with some compost or peat -- wold be a good choice.

and a very young pithecolobium flexicaule (Texas ebony).

The same mix as the juniper, but water less often.


I live smack on the dotted line between USDA Zone 5a
and 5b.

The Carmona and TX ebony will need winter protection, but
I'm sure you know that.

What kind of soil mix should I be considering when I
repot each of these in the future? The Sargents needs
it now by the look of the roots, the nana soon, and
the tea tree can wait til spring. The ebony needs to
grow some more before repotting.

BTW, I have a bag of bonsai soil as well as some
coarse sand and some red lava stone. What else do I
need to add to my soil resources?

Turface, Profile, Terra Green or Mule Mix (they're all the
same stuff). A bark mulch of some sort.


I wouldn't grow either the juniper or the TX ebony in
typical "bonsai soil," or if you do keep a very close eye on
moisture.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Thanks for the suggestions, Jim. You've been very
helpful both here and on the website...sort of like
helping young trees (relatively speaking) become
bonsai!

--- Jim Lewis wrote:
I'm afraid that only time and experience will teach
you this.

I was afraid that would be the basic answer. How many
times I've heard that in my life endeavours! I also
paint religious ikons (Russian Orthodox here--and you
think bonsai people argue about rules and traditions
for the art!!!), sing, and write. Been told "you'll
learn as you get more experience" a LOT! Still not
used to it at 45.

I just hate the "learning more from failures" thing. I
like these trees, won't like having one or more expire
though I know that goes with the territory.

I have two junipers (a Sargents @ 8 yrs and a
procumbens nana @ 5 yrs),

FAST draining soil. 100% Turface (or clone) works
well. Fertilize with balanced fertilizer with
micronutrients. Keep soil _just_ moist.

Wow, JUST Turface (or similar product)? I'll have to
get some and try it. Will it hurt the Sargent's to
repot in the next few weeks? Even though the pot its
in is large, it appears to be almost rootbound.

I live smack on the dotted line between USDA Zone
5a and 5b.

The Carmona and TX ebony will need winter
protection, but I'm sure you know that.

They've already moved indoors since we've had a couple
of nights drop well below 50 already.

BTW, I have a bag of bonsai soil as well as some
coarse sand and some red lava stone. What else do
I need to add to my soil resources?

Turface, Profile, Terra Green or Mule Mix (they're
all the same stuff). A bark mulch of some sort.

I wouldn't grow either the juniper or the TX ebony
in typical "bonsai soil," or if you do keep a very
close eye on moisture.

Many thanks again, Jim. You've given me some very
helpful direction.

Kevin Payne
Quincy, IL



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Kevin Nikolai Payne wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions, Jim. You've been very
helpful both here and on the website...sort of like
helping young trees (relatively speaking) become
bonsai!

You are welcome. BUT . . . remember that I am zone 8b and
you are zone 5. Your soil will act differently than mine in
your colder winters, and I can't predict how.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only
where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the
landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the
care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

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Does anyone know of a source for Turface/Profile/Terra Green/ Mule Mix in
the Charlotte N. C. area?

Thanks Much

Bill

Turface, Profile, Terra Green or Mule Mix (they're
all the same stuff). A bark mulch of some sort.


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Bill Alexander wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for Turface/Profile/Terra Green/ Mule Mix
in the Charlotte N. C. area?



If you do a web search for each name you should find a home
page for each of them (or their parent company). Usually on
those pages you will find either a list of dealers or a
"find-the-dealer-nearest-you" link.

I'll be doing that soon, since I'm moving to Columbus, NC in
a few months. :-) But I still have 3 unopened bags of Mule
Mix.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Thanks, Jim. Be sure and check out the new Bonsai Exhibition Garden at the
N. C. Arboretum in Asheville when you get here. It's scheduled to open in
about a week. Only about 30 min. north of Columbus.

Bill



Bill Alexander wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for Turface/Profile/Terra Green/ Mule Mix in
the Charlotte N. C. area?


If you do a web search for each name you should find a home page for each
of them (or their parent company). Usually on those pages you will find
either a list of dealers or a "find-the-dealer-nearest-you" link.

I'll be doing that soon, since I'm moving to Columbus, NC in a few months.
:-) But I still have 3 unopened bags of Mule Mix.

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