[IBC] Collecting Azaleas
 

Azaleas should be cut back hard. I would go back to the trunk and leave that
at about six inches if you can. They have a fine, shallow root system and
transplant well.

Billy on the Florida Space Coast

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[IBC] Collecting Azaleas
 

In a message dated 4/9/2003 11:42:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

Any info would be helpful. What should I do if they've already been torn
out? Can these be saved? Is it best to cut them back very hard, perhaps
leaving a small branch or two to force sap up the trunk, or can they be cut
right back to the trunk, as I see in some of the
development trees in the
bonsai mags?

Bart:

I just completed a weekend session with a student who bought 3 50-year old collected azaleas. Be prepared to deal with extremely fibrous and dense root pads. However, at this time:

1. Pot the collected specimens in a good potting mixture (not a bonsai mixture. You want to rapidly stabilize the azaleas and promote root growth.

2. Do not cut back on the azaleas, especially in the apex of the tree. If you slow down the sapflow, you may lose the specimens.

3. Water them in with Roots liquid. This will promote root growth and minimize transplant shock.

4. Begin work on the tree next spring.

Cordially,

Michael Persiano
members.aol.com/iasnob/index.html

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[IBC] Collecting Azaleas
 

A friend just told me that he was tearing out some 50 year old
azaleas, so
I'm off to race against the landscapers tomorrow.

Any info would be helpful. What should I do if they've already
been torn
out? Can these be saved? Is it best to cut them back very hard,
perhaps
leaving a small branch or two to force sap up the trunk, or can
they be cut
right back to the trunk, as I see in some of the development
trees in the
bonsai mags?

He's getting rid of them because of "die back" this winter, so
I plan to do
some bark scraping.


Leave at least a few leaves. You can cut roots back hard (so if
they haven't been ripped out and left in full sun for several
hours, they have a good chance of survival).

I'd put these back into the ground in almost full shade. A bit
of time-release fertilizer in the hole with them won't hurt.
Just a little. Cover the roots with oak leaf mulch (but keep it
away from the trunks). Don't let them dry out BUT DO NOT
OVERWATER!

Those that sprout new leaves, leave them there for a couple of
years. Those that don't sprout -- well, they were free.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life is
frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry
David Thoreau - Walden

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