I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA convention in Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it into a large training pot
from a plastic flowerpot. The new mix consisted of probably 3 parts pine bark,
2 parts 1/8" haydite, 1 parts 1/8" grit, 1 part coir (a byproduct of coconut
production), and a couple of handfuls of milled sphagnum peat (used for seed
starting, not the dry brown stuff) a different mix from what I normally use.

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not quite though, just limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem, but the stem droops, so
the overall appearance looks pretty haggard. I watered it in well and kept on
eye on things for the next day or so. The soil dried considerably, enough for
to water again, but the stem tips still seem quite limp. The tree receives
morning sun from sunrise to about 11:00 am (north side of my garage) and then
maybe from 6:00 pm till dark.

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and medium root pruning? By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the root ball (there is still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6, Sunset Zone 35
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn

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In the hot summer I only pot up to larger pots without
cutting any roots. I do this only if I didn't get
around to repotting in spring and the plant shows
stress from being pot bound.

That said, I have more to say. Why do people bring
home new plants and mess with them right away? The
plant may be stressed by the move. You don't know how
it will react to where you place the plant. So how do
you know which thing affected the plant the most?

I usually let my plant settle in before I do anything
drastic to them. I didn't do that last year and I
lost a beautiful trunk I purchased because I tried to
make a bush into a tree too quickly. I purned too
much off the top and the roots/leaves proportions were
too off for the plant to survive.

Kitsune Miko


--- Steve Parr wrote:
I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA
convention in Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it
into a large training pot
from a plastic flowerpot. The new mix consisted of
probably 3 parts pine bark,
2 parts 1/8" haydite, 1 parts 1/8" grit, 1 part coir
(a byproduct of coconut
production), and a couple of handfuls of milled
sphagnum peat (used for seed
starting, not the dry brown stuff) a different mix
from what I normally use.

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not
quite though, just limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem,
but the stem droops, so
the overall appearance looks pretty haggard. I
watered it in well and kept on
eye on things for the next day or so. The soil dried
considerably, enough for
to water again, but the stem tips still seem quite
limp. The tree receives
morning sun from sunrise to about 11:00 am (north
side of my garage) and then
maybe from 6:00 pm till dark.

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and
medium root pruning? By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the
root ball (there is still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one
sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6, Sunset Zone 35
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for
this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


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++++

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http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail
+++++

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Parr"
Subject: [IBC] Repotting Buttonwood


I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA convention in
Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it into a large training
pot

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not quite though, just
limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem, but the stem droops,
so
the overall appearance looks pretty haggard.

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and medium root pruning?
By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the root ball (there is
still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -

Steve,
The last ( and MY last) buttonwood I also repotted about this time of year
in NE Ohio. Seemed a good time for tropical. Root ball pretty good. Same
source as yours.
It INSTANTLY wilted and dried up to be thrown out after a few weeks of
watching it turn completely brown.
Past buttonwoods took the dive at various other seasons for various other
reasons. My advice for buttonwoods outside of south Florida....pass on 'em.
Don't be seduced by the trunks ( or the "Dark Side") .
If it suvives your repotting the BIGGEST challenge ahead is getting it
through an Ohio winter inside, unless you are prepared to dedicate quite a
bit to keeping this one plant alive! LOTS of heat and humidity, and, if you
do, it will STILL NEVER look like it would in S, Florida.
They are like trying to over-winter a tomato plant!!
My advice for best tropical to grow in Ohio....The Willow-leaf Ficus. It is
the BEST for us. I have quite a few and they respond wonderful.
Regards,
Dale Cochoy

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Steve,
The buttonwoods wilt after every repotting. Keep them warm, moist and even
place them into a large plastic bag, but out of sun for two weeks. It should
be fine.
Jerry Meislik
Whitefish Montana USA
Zone 4-5
http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/
I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA convention in Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it into a large training pot
from a plastic flowerpot. The new mix consisted of probably 3 parts pine bark,
2 parts 1/8" haydite, 1 parts 1/8" grit, 1 part coir (a byproduct of coconut
production), and a couple of handfuls of milled sphagnum peat (used for seed
starting, not the dry brown stuff) a different mix from what I normally use.

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not quite though, just limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem, but the stem droops, so
the overall appearance looks pretty haggard. I watered it in well and kept on
eye on things for the next day or so. The soil dried considerably, enough for
to water again, but the stem tips still seem quite limp. The tree receives
morning sun from sunrise to about 11:00 am (north side of my garage) and then
maybe from 6:00 pm till dark.

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and medium root pruning? By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the root ball (there is still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6, Sunset Zone 35

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The reason for messing with them right away is that now is the proper repotting
time for tropicals in SW Ohio.
I was told by several local folks that now is the perfect time, nights in the
70? F range, days in the upper 80? range.
There was already new growth on the plant. It sat for almost two weeks in its
present spot before I worked on it.

I would never root prune a plant that I didn't think could take it.

This particular buttonwood was in a 10" diameter plastic pot with a depth of
about 10". The soil it was in looked like about what the "Miracle-Gro" potting
mix my annuals are (petunias, impatiens, marigolds, verbena; all from seed)
looks like at the end of the summer. It is now in a drum pot, 12" diameter and
5" deep. There were no roots cut greater than a "Dum-Dum" lollipop stick
(1/8"). The reason for the one-sided rootage, was the elongated stump that was
buried. I hope to encourage new roots on the other side before the next repot.

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


That said, I have more to say. Why do people bring
home new plants and mess with them right away? The
plant may be stressed by the move. You don't know how
it will react to where you place the plant. So how do
you know which thing affected the plant the most?

snipped

--- Steve Parr wrote:
I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA
convention in Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it
into a large training pot
from a plastic flowerpot. The new mix consisted of
probably 3 parts pine bark,
2 parts 1/8" haydite, 1 parts 1/8" grit, 1 part coir
(a byproduct of coconut
production), and a couple of handfuls of milled
sphagnum peat (used for seed
starting, not the dry brown stuff) a different mix
from what I normally use.

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not
quite though, just limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem,
but the stem droops

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and
medium root pruning? By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the
root ball (there is still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one
sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

OK, I stand corrected on buttonwoods in Ohio. But
there is another saying QTIP. Quit taking it
personally.

It was actually a retorical question. You must admit
that many problems in this forum are in part due to
doing too many things to a tree at one time.

My other pet theory is that bonsai commit harikari if
taken to more than two masters. The more masters that
touch the tree in a year, the better the chances of
demise. Folks, trees just can't think that fast.

Kitsune Miko
--- Steve Parr wrote:
The reason for messing with them right away is that
now is the proper repotting
time for tropicals in SW Ohio.
I was told by several local folks that now is the
perfect time, nights in the
70? F range, days in the upper 80? range.
There was already new growth on the plant. It sat
for almost two weeks in its
present spot before I worked on it.

I would never root prune a plant that I didn't think
could take it.

This particular buttonwood was in a 10" diameter
plastic pot with a depth of
about 10". The soil it was in looked like about what
the "Miracle-Gro" potting
mix my annuals are (petunias, impatiens, marigolds,
verbena; all from seed)
looks like at the end of the summer. It is now in a
drum pot, 12" diameter and
5" deep. There were no roots cut greater than a
"Dum-Dum" lollipop stick
(1/8"). The reason for the one-sided rootage, was
the elongated stump that was
buried. I hope to encourage new roots on the other
side before the next repot.

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for
this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


That said, I have more to say. Why do people
bring
home new plants and mess with them right away?
The
plant may be stressed by the move. You don't know
how
it will react to where you place the plant. So
how do
you know which thing affected the plant the most?

snipped

--- Steve Parr wrote:
I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the
MABA
convention in Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted
it
into a large training pot
from a plastic flowerpot. The new mix consisted
of
probably 3 parts pine bark,
2 parts 1/8" haydite, 1 parts 1/8" grit, 1 part
coir
(a byproduct of coconut
production), and a couple of handfuls of milled
sphagnum peat (used for seed
starting, not the dry brown stuff) a different
mix
from what I normally use.

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting,
not
quite though, just limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the
stem,
but the stem droops

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting
and
medium root pruning? By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of
the
root ball (there is still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit
one
sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).


************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page
++++

************************************************** ******************************
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http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail
+++++

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Dale,

Never tried a overwintering a tomato, but have had luck with hot peppers (even
picked a few habaneros on New Years). That is, till I took them out for the
next season, croaked right away.

My "inside garden" consists of two 400 watt metal halides on a 10' track with
dual light movers, 10 4' fluorescent shop lights, and a few spot "grow-lights".
All built on 3/4" PVC stands and a three tier Burpee seed starting stand
(Christmas present from the wife a few years ago). My Ficus seem to love it
during the winter, even throwing lots of new growth. Thermostatically
controlled propagation mats or even a humidifier would be no problem to rig up.
I am an ex-process control electrical engineer that quit work to stay home with
our new daughter.

Yea, I've got lots of time....

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


On Monday, July 14, 2003 4:05 PM, dalecochoy ]
wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Parr"
Subject: [IBC] Repotting Buttonwood


I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA convention in
Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it into a large training
pot

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not quite though, just
limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem, but the stem droops,
so
the overall appearance looks pretty haggard.

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and medium root pruning?
By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the root ball (there is
still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -

Steve,
The last ( and MY last) buttonwood I also repotted about this time of year
in NE Ohio. Seemed a good time for tropical. Root ball pretty good. Same
source as yours.
It INSTANTLY wilted and dried up to be thrown out after a few weeks of
watching it turn completely brown.
Past buttonwoods took the dive at various other seasons for various other
reasons. My advice for buttonwoods outside of south Florida....pass on 'em.
Don't be seduced by the trunks ( or the "Dark Side") .
If it suvives your repotting the BIGGEST challenge ahead is getting it
through an Ohio winter inside, unless you are prepared to dedicate quite a
bit to keeping this one plant alive! LOTS of heat and humidity, and, if you
do, it will STILL NEVER look like it would in S, Florida.
They are like trying to over-winter a tomato plant!!
My advice for best tropical to grow in Ohio....The Willow-leaf Ficus. It is
the BEST for us. I have quite a few and they respond wonderful.
Regards,
Dale Cochoy


************************************************** ****************************
**
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**
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

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Jerry,

Thanks, I just wasn't sure if buttonwood was persnickety about root pruning or
not. I'm sure the tree will be OK, just wanted to check if what I am seeing is
normal.

Do you have any buttonwoods "way up 'Nor"?

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


On Monday, July 14, 2003 4:22 PM, Jerry Meislik ]
wrote:
Steve,
The buttonwoods wilt after every repotting. Keep them warm, moist and even
place them into a large plastic bag, but out of sun for two weeks. It should
be fine.
Jerry Meislik
Whitefish Montana USA
Zone 4-5
http://www.bonsaihunk.8m.com/

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Miko-san,

I truly hope that anything I have said was taken as a attack on you.

My signature line is from one of my favorite cartoon characters, that perhaps
you are not familiar with.
I can direct you to where you can view these cartoons.

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


On Monday, July 14, 2003 5:47 PM, Kitsune Miko ] wrote:
OK, I stand corrected on buttonwoods in Ohio. But
there is another saying QTIP. Quit taking it
personally.

It was actually a retorical question. You must admit
that many problems in this forum are in part due to
doing too many things to a tree at one time.

My other pet theory is that bonsai commit harikari if
taken to more than two masters. The more masters that
touch the tree in a year, the better the chances of
demise. Folks, trees just can't think that fast.

Kitsune Miko

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Steve:
You have received some excellent advice from Kitsune Miko, Dale Cohoy
and Jerry Meislik, so now you will hear from the amateur!

Dale may be right about letting such tropicals stay in Florida, but
where is the challenge? I have a Buttonwood that I have kept alive for
five years and is doing well, considering the fact that I put it out
doors and it's leaves became sunburned. It was brought in doors and I
put it in an ICU enclosure (as Jerry Meislik suggested). It came back
without any problems.....

I do suggest that you place it in a plastic tent, water it well (no
fertilizer). I have been told to make sure the leaves do not touch the
plastic (I still haven't figured out why, but I do it just in case, I
don't want to find out :-P ). Even while it is in the tent, place the
tree on a propagation mat, since the Buttonwood loves its feet warm.

It will take a good 30 days to leaf out, (if you place it in the ICU).
When it recovers and has a good set ofleaves,feed it Miracid 30-10-10.
1/4 teaspoon to a gallon of water. I feed mine Monday thru Friday with
the Miracid. On Saturday and Sunday, clear water to wash out any
accumulated salts.

As Jerry said the Buttonwood needs Humidity and bright light, but keep
it year round on a propagation matt when in doors.

Good Luck and enjoy the fascinating Buttonwood!

Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7
http://bmee.net/rosner
http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48





Steve Parr wrote:

I recently picked up my first buttonwood at the MABA convention in Cincinnati
earlier this month. This past weekend I repotted it into a large training pot
from a plastic flowerpot. The new mix consisted of probably 3 parts pine bark,
2 parts 1/8" haydite, 1 parts 1/8" grit, 1 part coir (a byproduct of coconut
production), and a couple of handfuls of milled sphagnum peat (used for seed
starting, not the dry brown stuff) a different mix from what I normally use.

The tips of the branches seem to almost wilting, not quite though, just limp.
The leaves are still upright in respect to the stem, but the stem droops, so
the overall appearance looks pretty haggard. I watered it in well and kept on
eye on things for the next day or so. The soil dried considerably, enough for
to water again, but the stem tips still seem quite limp. The tree receives
morning sun from sunrise to about 11:00 am (north side of my garage) and then
maybe from 6:00 pm till dark.

Is it normal for buttonwood to resent repotting and medium root pruning? By
medium, I mean removal of maybe 1/3 to 3/8 of the root ball (there is still a
good size root ball of fine feeder roots, a bit one sided, but still quite
reasonably sized).

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6, Sunset Zone 35
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn



************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Ah So I am no Samurai Warrior. I do not accept
attack. It is I, delicate flower of the orient, that
hopes she has not been offensive.

Kitsune Miko

--- Steve Parr wrote:
Miko-san,

I truly hope that anything I have said was taken as
a attack on you.

My signature line is from one of my favorite cartoon
characters, that perhaps
you are not familiar with.
I can direct you to where you can view these
cartoons.

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for
this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


On Monday, July 14, 2003 5:47 PM, Kitsune Miko
] wrote:
OK, I stand corrected on buttonwoods in Ohio. But
there is another saying QTIP. Quit taking it
personally.

It was actually a retorical question. You must
admit
that many problems in this forum are in part due
to
doing too many things to a tree at one time.

My other pet theory is that bonsai commit harikari
if
taken to more than two masters. The more masters
that
touch the tree in a year, the better the chances
of
demise. Folks, trees just can't think that fast.

Kitsune Miko


************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Ah So I am no Samurai Warrior. I do not accept
attack. It is I, delicate flower of the orient, that
hopes she has not been offensive.

Kitsune Miko

--- Steve Parr wrote:
Miko-san,

I truly hope that anything I have said was taken as
a attack on you.

My signature line is from one of my favorite cartoon
characters, that perhaps
you are not familiar with.
I can direct you to where you can view these
cartoons.

Steve Parr - Cincinnati, Ohio -
USDA Zone 6
"Now who's respon... I say who's responsible for
this unwarranted attack on my
person"
Foghorn Leghorn


On Monday, July 14, 2003 5:47 PM, Kitsune Miko
] wrote:
OK, I stand corrected on buttonwoods in Ohio. But
there is another saying QTIP. Quit taking it
personally.

It was actually a retorical question. You must
admit
that many problems in this forum are in part due
to
doing too many things to a tree at one time.

My other pet theory is that bonsai commit harikari
if
taken to more than two masters. The more masters
that
touch the tree in a year, the better the chances
of
demise. Folks, trees just can't think that fast.

Kitsune Miko


************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Mike Page ++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Meislik"
Subject: [IBC] Repotting Buttonwood


Steve,
The buttonwoods wilt after every repotting. Keep them warm, moist and even
place them into a large plastic bag, but out of sun for two weeks. It
should
be fine.
Jerry Meislik

Steve,
something I forgot to mention in my earlier post. Here in OHIO it might be a
good Idea to use warm water ( like from a container sitting out) to water.
Especially in Winter you want water to be warmer if watering in the house. .
And, if you have well water, that's really cold! I know mine sure is. Be
careful of hosing it down outside with that for a while.
Dale

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Parr"
Subject: [IBC] Repotting Buttonwood


Dale,

Never tried a overwintering a tomato,

My "inside garden" consists of two 400 watt metal halides on a 10' track
with
dual light movers, 10 4' fluorescent shop lights, and a few spot
"grow-lights".
All built on 3/4" PVC stands and a three tier Burpee seed starting stand
(Christmas present from the wife a few years ago). My Ficus seem to love
it
during the winter, even throwing lots of new growth. Thermostatically
controlled propagation mats or even a humidifier would be no problem to
rig up.

That sounds good. I WOULD recommend the heating mat. I have a friend with
that same setup( moving metal halide's, mat) and he has great success with
buttonwoods. He also has a great sunroom for them to boot in the winter.
One other thing I don't know if Mary mentioned. When it gets scale/ mealy
bugs ( and it will).... no malithion!
Dale

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Well, I have to disagree!! Buttonwood is not any more difficult than
ficus. True..it will grow differently in the north(other than in
summer), than it would in Florida or if you use Metal Halide.
The first potting may be the most difficult for any nursery tree because
you just don't know what you will find rootwise.
One thing I've found about repotting buttonwood in the north in summer
is the temperature changes. It can be hot, great for repotting, then the
night or day temps can drop to 40's - 50's. In my experience not good
after a repot. The only time I had trouble after a repot was this temp.
change. Once it's outside for the summer, it stays there. The tree is
about 36"h x 40"w.
The only trouble I had with buttonwood:
It had aphids once outside, never seen scale ever.
Once in Feb. after I'd had it for 3 years it dropped about 75% of it's
leaves. I think it was pot bound, it refoliated.
I had some root rot, changed the soil mix. This is when I stopped using
peat in any soil mix. It's been said that peat is used in the mix in
Florida for buttonwood, well.
It may get some leaf burn after you bring it outside. I've never worried
about it, cut them off, it will soon produce more leaves.

Like Carl I use Mir-Acid, the only time it doesn't get fed too much is
Oct. - Dec.
Then it begins to grow well Jan. on.
I use a humidifier, never measured the humidity level, feels okay. A few
fans for air circ.
A
tomato plant! No way!

Regards,
Alan
.................................................. ......................
The last ( and MY last) buttonwood I also repotted about this time of
year in NE Ohio. Seemed a good time for tropical. Root ball pretty good.
Same source as yours.
It INSTANTLY wilted and dried up to be thrown out after a few weeks of
watching it turn completely brown.
Past buttonwoods took the dive at various other seasons for various
other reasons. My advice for buttonwoods outside of south
Florida....pass on 'em. Don't be seduced by the trunks ( or the "Dark
Side") . If it suvives your repotting the BIGGEST challenge ahead is
getting it through an Ohio winter inside, unless you are prepared to
dedicate quite a bit to keeping this one plant alive! LOTS of heat and
humidity, and, if you do, it will STILL NEVER look like it would in S,
Florida. They are like trying to over-winter a tomato plant!! My advice
for best tropical to grow in Ohio....The Willow-leaf Ficus. It is the
BEST for us. I have quite a few and they respond wonderful. Regards,
Dale Cochoy