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[IBC] Will hitting the trunk with a hammer help?
I have read in a bonsai book that hitting the trunk of a pine with a hammer, softly will cause cell damage and as the tree repairs this damage the diameter of the trunk is increased. The book continued to say that one should only do one side of a tree at a
time. I am interested in if the hitting the trunk with a hammer really works. I have a Japanese Black Pine that I am growing in the ground. I have about 2 1/2 inch trunk maybe 3. I have good sacrificial branches all the way down to the ground. I have a good curv e in the trunk and I have a new top picked out. The problem is that through out the trunk I have very little taper. This spring I will cut it back from 5 foot to 2 foot. My problem is I have little taper from zero to 18 inches then the taper of the new top . I plan on the finished plant being around 28 - 32 inches so I may not even need to be concerned at this time. If the hitting the trunk with a hammer at the base causes the cells to break and then swell to repair themselves it may be worth it, giving me a little better taper at the base. This is not a small seedling in a bonsai pot. This is a 5 ft Japanese black pi ne in my yard. Thanks Joel ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Will hitting the trunk with a hammer help?
I have read in a bonsai book that hitting the trunk of a pine
with a hammer, softly will cause cell damage and as the tree repairs this damage the diameter of the trunk is increased. The book continued to say that one should only do one side of a tree at a time. snip ============ What book? I want to NOT buy it. There aren't any shortcuts. Really. You can poke the bark with a sharp knife or a needle, scour it with sandpaper, wrap it tightly with string, or whap it with a hammer and you _may_ get a slightly fatter trunk, but you're likely to get an UGLY fatter trunk, too. Trees don't say "Ouch! You're hitting me too hard." So you may also end up with a severely damaged tree. Part of bonsai is the care you take in developing a tree slowly so it reaches its potential. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase 'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Will hitting the trunk with a hammer help?
I have heard of creating jin with a hammer, but not to fatten a trunk. If
the tree is still pliable you could try doing the strong wind bending technique. This loosens the cambium a bit and this promoted girth. How about some sacrificial branches instead? Kitsune Miko At 06:53 PM 8/26/2003 -0400, Jim Lewis wrote: I have read in a bonsai book that hitting the trunk of a pine with a hammer, softly will cause cell damage and as the tree repairs this damage the diameter of the trunk is increased. The book continued to say that one should only do one side of a tree at a time. snip ============ What book? I want to NOT buy it. There aren't any shortcuts. Really. You can poke the bark with a sharp knife or a needle, scour it with sandpaper, wrap it tightly with string, or whap it with a hammer and you _may_ get a slightly fatter trunk, but you're likely to get an UGLY fatter trunk, too. Trees don't say "Ouch! You're hitting me too hard." So you may also end up with a severely damaged tree. Part of bonsai is the care you take in developing a tree slowly so it reaches its potential. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase 'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman ************************************************* ******************************* ++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++ ************************************************* ******************************* -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Will hitting the trunk with a hammer help?
JOEL MCCORMICK wrote:
Hi Joel I read that too .. but it also said that is NOT for pines as it loosen the bark & will kill the tree , the twisting method does the same bad result.. some books advice pinching teh trunck woth a spike and teh holes cicatrizing will make it thicker , or scaratch it with a fork to make it enhance its texture with cicatrization .. all hogwash! you just spoil a tree The moment in which the bark is most sensitive& dangerous is may and june..as it mught loosen from the cambium ; anyway I would not use that method on a nice/or whatever tree I spent already time for training .. If you wire a branch of a pine and you keep this for a while in a position and than loosen and bent into another position for a while again (x months anyway) the connection point of the branch to the main trunk will fatten in size and become unnatural as as big as the trunk read and experienced personally :-( Theo I have read in a bonsai book that hitting the trunk of a pine with a hammer, softly will cause cell damage and as the tree repairs this damage the diameter of the trunk is increased. The book continued to say that one should only do one side of a tree at a time. I am interested in if the hitting the trunk with a hammer really works. I have a Japanese Black Pine that I am growing in the ground. I have about 2 1/2 inch trunk maybe 3. I have good sacrificial branches all the way down to the ground. I have a good cu rve in the trunk and I have a new top picked out. The problem is that through out the trunk I have very little taper. This spring I will cut it back from 5 foot to 2 foot. My problem is I have little taper from zero to 18 inches then the taper of the new t op. I plan on the finished plant being around 28 - 32 inches so I may not even need to be concerned at this time. If the hitting the trunk with a hammer at the base causes the cells to break and then swell to repair themselves it may be worth it, giving me a little better taper at the base. This is not a small seedling in a bonsai pot. This is a 5 ft Japanese black pine in my yard. Thanks Joel ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Will hitting the trunk with a hammer help?
At 03:40 PM 8/26/03 +0400, JOEL MCCORMICK wrote:
I have read in a bonsai book that hitting the trunk of a pine with a hammer, softly will cause cell damage and as the tree repairs this damage the diameter of the trunk is increased. The book continued to say that one should only do one side of a tree at a time. I am interested in if the hitting the trunk with a hammer really works. I have a Japanese Black Pine that I am growing in the ground. I have about 2 1/2 inch trunk maybe 3. I have good sacrificial branches all the way down to the ground. I have a good curve in the trunk and I have a new top picked out. The problem is that through out the trunk I have very little taper. This spring I will cut it back from 5 foot to 2 foot. My problem is I have little taper from zero to 18 inches then the taper of the new top. I plan on the finished plant being around 28 - 32 inches so I may not even need to be concerned at this time. Joe Cambium wounding does have its place in correcting faults, but this is not one of them. First of all, I would never use the hammer method, it is much too dangerous. Making small vertical cuts is my preferred method, but this is for correcting small areas of reverse taper or getting a little bit of swelling in the nebari on a small plant. A plant your size needs major work to achieve taper. You say you have sacrifice branches all the way to the ground, that is the proper and fastest way to achieve taper, but it is still going to take several, if not many, years. I use low sacrifices like this to gain caliper and taper. Often the sacrifice is several times larger than the 'tree', to give you some idea of the scale of work that you need. While doing this, leave it in the ground or use large training pots, the faster the sacrifice grows the better. You can cut down the 'tree' and begin working the apex area and the other branches. Identify the trunk area that already has the right caliper for that height. You should not grow sacrifices higher than this, indeed, above that point you will want to _diminish_ growth. Sacrifices below that point will help you achieve taper, but for a trunk this large, probably a single sacrifice in the base section is all you will need. However, keep all the other low branches alive for possible final branch selection and/or future sacrifices. It is amazing how your vision of a tree can change over the course of the years. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Dale Cochoy++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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