Well, I tried some air layers and cuttings this summer and now have a number
of propogated plants that will be seeing their first winter. A couple
didn't actually develop roots until very recently and one of my air layers I
thought was dead is now sending out new leaves (buds are just now popping).
Anything I can do to increase the survival chances for these "babies?" I
have kingsville boxwood cuttings, trident maple cuttings, a Japanes maple
air layer and two JH Elm air layers. On a somewhat similar note, I have a
whole bunch of Serrisa cuttings that are doing really well and I'm wondering
if they will behave as Ficus or Trident Maple if planted so that the trunks
are touching - will they eventually "graft" together and form a single
larger trunk?

Thanks,

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39

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I also have 8 baby Serissas from this summer's
cuttings and I wonder which is the best way to protect
them during the winter.

Any advice is welcome (especially beyond the usual
watering-light-temperature precautions)

regards,
Dimitris.

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At 11:11 AM 9/29/03 -0400, Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL) wrote:
Well, I tried some air layers and cuttings this summer and now have a number
of propogated plants that will be seeing their first winter. A couple
didn't actually develop roots until very recently and one of my air layers I
thought was dead is now sending out new leaves (buds are just now popping).
Anything I can do to increase the survival chances for these "babies?" I
have kingsville boxwood cuttings, trident maple cuttings, a Japanes maple
air layer and two JH Elm air layers. ...

Jeff

The best thing you can do for newly rooted cuttings and airlayers is to
keep the temperatures between 28F and 40F all winter long. The new roots
are very succulent and extremely sensitive to freezing temperatures until
they lignify. Since their normal growing season was interrupted, they will
continue to grow long past the time other plants enter dormancy. This also
exacerbates the freezing problem. By keeping them in the range above, they
will slowly go dormant before spring on their own schedule and can safely
keep growing roots, albeit slowly (on warm days when the temp does get
above 50F). Keep them in good light until they go dormant. I know this can
be hard to achieve, but years of experience with freeze killed cuttings has
convinced me that this is the only way to proceed. Acer species are
particularly susceptible to killing root freezes.


Brent in Northern California
Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14

http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com

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Well, I tried some air layers and cuttings this summer and now
have a number
of propogated plants that will be seeing their first winter. A
couple
didn't actually develop roots until very recently and one of my
air layers I
thought was dead is now sending out new leaves (buds are just
now popping).
Anything I can do to increase the survival chances for these
"babies?" I
have kingsville boxwood cuttings, trident maple cuttings, a
Japanes maple
air layer and two JH Elm air layers. On a somewhat similar
note, I have a
whole bunch of Serrisa cuttings that are doing really well and
I'm wondering
if they will behave as Ficus or Trident Maple if planted so
that the trunks
are touching - will they eventually "graft" together and form a
single
larger trunk?

Are the layers still attached? It's a bit late to remove them (I
think). But if you do, treat them like your cuttings and give
bottom heat over the winter.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase
'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman

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Are the layers still attached? It's a bit late to remove them (I
think). But if you do, treat them like your cuttings and give
bottom heat over the winter.
--------------------------------------SNIP---------------------------
Thanks to both Jim and Brent. The air layers were separated not quite a
month ago. I learned quite a bit by this first experience with air
layering, by the way, and will not be so worrried in the future. However,
due to some problems with my technique, there were pretty sparse living
roots when I completed the separation. Thus, my surprise that the one even
survived! Question, though, on the responses: is the bottom heat
over-and-above maintaining the 28-40 temp or a method for maintaining that
temp range?

Thanks again,

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39

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Question, though, on the responses: is the bottom heat
over-and-above maintaining the 28-40 temp or a method for
maintaining that
temp range?



In Cleveland, I'd guess most means of bottom heat would struggle
to keep temperatures that high during the winter months.

You DO want them to go dormant; but even when dormant, trees grow
roots, so the warmer temps will help promote that, a little.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - The phrase
'sustainable growth' is an oxymoron. - Stephen Viederman

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Jeff:
80 Percent of my indoor trees are on propagation mats. I think that
just adds a little more security to keeping trees healthy indoors! Of
course, I have a humidifier, a heater as well as an oscillating fan on
for 24/7. My trees thank me, by doing well during the winter.

Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7
http://bmee.net/rosner
http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48


Isom, Jeff (EM, PTL) wrote:

Are the layers still attached? It's a bit late to remove them (I
think). But if you do, treat them like your cuttings and give
bottom heat over the winter.
--------------------------------------SNIP---------------------------
Thanks to both Jim and Brent. The air layers were separated not quite a
month ago. I learned quite a bit by this first experience with air
layering, by the way, and will not be so worrried in the future. However,
due to some problems with my technique, there were pretty sparse living
roots when I completed the separation. Thus, my surprise that the one even
survived! Question, though, on the responses: is the bottom heat
over-and-above maintaining the 28-40 temp or a method for maintaining that
temp range?

Thanks again,

Jeff Isom
Cleveland, OH / Sunset Zone 39

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************************************************* *******************************


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At 03:57 PM 9/29/03 -0400, Jeff Isom wrote:

Question, though, on the responses: is the bottom heat
over-and-above maintaining the 28-40 temp or a method for maintaining that
temp range?

Jeff

Bottom heat could be beneficial during the fall weeks to encourage root
growth, but as temperatures start to drop, you should discontinue it or you
will prolong growth for too long. Once they are dormant, avoid bottom heat.
Temperatures above 50 to 60F in the root zone could cause them to break
dormancy prematurely after they have the requisite number of chill hours.


Brent in Northern California
Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14

http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

At 03:57 PM 9/29/03 -0400, Jeff Isom wrote:

Question, though, on the responses: is the bottom heat
over-and-above maintaining the 28-40 temp or a method for maintaining that
temp range?

Jeff

Bottom heat could be beneficial during the fall weeks to encourage root
growth, but as temperatures start to drop, you should discontinue it or you
will prolong growth for too long. Once they are dormant, avoid bottom heat.
Temperatures above 50 to 60F in the root zone could cause them to break
dormancy prematurely after they have the requisite number of chill hours.


Brent in Northern California
Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14

http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Lisa Kanis++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

At 03:57 PM 9/29/03 -0400, Jeff Isom wrote:

Question, though, on the responses: is the bottom heat
over-and-above maintaining the 28-40 temp or a method for maintaining that
temp range?

Jeff

Bottom heat could be beneficial during the fall weeks to encourage root
growth, but as temperatures start to drop, you should discontinue it or you
will prolong growth for too long. Once they are dormant, avoid bottom heat.
Temperatures above 50 to 60F in the root zone could cause them to break
dormancy prematurely after they have the requisite number of chill hours.


Brent in Northern California
Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14

http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Lisa Kanis++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++