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[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
Hi Blake! You've solved your first bonsai problem ...
thinking. Part of bonsai is understanding the way a tree works: and that's what you're trying to do. Some of us old timers have come to the conclusion that we must start with older trees which already have thick trunks and good buttresses. The time it takes for this to happen seems interminable ( if you're 81 years old). However - the satisfaction of seeing your efforts come to fruition over a good many years is worth a great deal. Your idea of unrestrained growth for a few years is fine. And you may plant your A.p. in the ground rather than in a pot during this time. Just place a flat tile under the roots to encourage lateral growth. As for trunk chopping; you should wait until you have acquired the desired girth before doing it - and be sure you have sufficient adventitious branching BELOW the cut. Good luck. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake and Jennifer Wilkins" To: Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 1:03 AM Subject: [IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop? Hi, all. Three days of unrelenting rain, and Houston is presently a swamp. A potensai question. This applies specifically to a young A. palmatum "Shin deshojo" I am growing out in a growing bed. It is a five year old low graft (from Mountain Maples) and currently has a trunk caliper of about 1.5 inches. Currently, it has no low branches serving as sacrifices. So far it has had almost no pruning, not even light pruning. The prevailing logic is to achieve a caliper about 2/3 the intended final caliper before giving it its first trunk chop. I anticipate at least one and probably two more seasons before I am at the 2/3 point. I've noted growers stating that their young nursery stock have pruned down to 12 or 18 inches to encourage low branching, but I'm wonder the significance of this when dealing with material that responds vigorously to trunk chops, and that also generally requires trunk chops in order to achieve suitable taper. Assuming that I am going to chop this tree (or any deciduous tree that responds vigorously to severe pruning) down to, say, 3 inches in order to achieve dramatic taper, is there really any reason to do any pruning whatsoever until I've reached that 2/3 caliper point? Does 3 or 4 seasons of groun It would seem the arguments for absolutely unrestrained growth would include: ? Unrestrained growth equals maximum foliage feeding the roots and tree, more quickly adding caliper. ? Long central leader and whips allowed to blow in the wind (particularly for ground planted trees) will increase buttressing/flair. Argument against? Well, no low branches to serve as sacrifices or as final branches, but if I'm cutting down to 3 inches at the first major chop, sacrifices certainly would not be needed for achieving taper and final side branches would not yet be an issue. Perhaps, the story would be different if chopping down to 6 or 7 inches. Is such a case, sacrifices may be necessary lest the first 7-inch trunk section would have insufficient taper. Perhaps, am I also being too aggressive by considering a first trunk chop at 3 inches? I would appreciate any insight. Blake in Houston ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
No, 2-3 inches above the base is perfect. That will ultimately give you a
tree of about 12-14 inches in height. Unless the tree is extremely 'unvigorous', you will get dozens of bud breaks all over the wee stump. Touch none of them the first year, let them all throw out as much length as possible-- you'll get 4-9 feet of growth out of some of them. In the early spring of 'year 2' (the year after the first chop'), trim back all those branches wa-a-a-ay back to the base, leaving one-quarter inch to half-inch stubs all over, but leaving the potential leader slightly longer (I leave 2, the heir & the spare). Let them go nuts again this next year, then repeat the pruning process. I seal some stubs, others I leave open to rot out a bit and get craggy. Don't even worry about primary branch placement at this point... David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7) Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com email: ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
No, 2-3 inches above the base is perfect. That will ultimately give you a
tree of about 12-14 inches in height. Unless the tree is extremely 'unvigorous', you will get dozens of bud breaks all over the wee stump. Touch none of them the first year, let them all throw out as much length as possible-- you'll get 4-9 feet of growth out of some of them. In the early spring of 'year 2' (the year after the first chop'), trim back all those branches wa-a-a-ay back to the base, leaving one-quarter inch to half-inch stubs all over, but leaving the potential leader slightly longer (I leave 2, the heir & the spare). Let them go nuts again this next year, then repeat the pruning process. I seal some stubs, others I leave open to rot out a bit and get craggy. Don't even worry about primary branch placement at this point... David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7) Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com email: ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
No, 2-3 inches above the base is perfect. That will ultimately give you a
tree of about 12-14 inches in height. Unless the tree is extremely 'unvigorous', you will get dozens of bud breaks all over the wee stump. Touch none of them the first year, let them all throw out as much length as possible-- you'll get 4-9 feet of growth out of some of them. In the early spring of 'year 2' (the year after the first chop'), trim back all those branches wa-a-a-ay back to the base, leaving one-quarter inch to half-inch stubs all over, but leaving the potential leader slightly longer (I leave 2, the heir & the spare). Let them go nuts again this next year, then repeat the pruning process. I seal some stubs, others I leave open to rot out a bit and get craggy. Don't even worry about primary branch placement at this point... David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7) Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com email: ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] Pruning Prior to First Major Trunk Chop?
No, 2-3 inches above the base is perfect. That will ultimately give you a
tree of about 12-14 inches in height. Unless the tree is extremely 'unvigorous', you will get dozens of bud breaks all over the wee stump. Touch none of them the first year, let them all throw out as much length as possible-- you'll get 4-9 feet of growth out of some of them. In the early spring of 'year 2' (the year after the first chop'), trim back all those branches wa-a-a-ay back to the base, leaving one-quarter inch to half-inch stubs all over, but leaving the potential leader slightly longer (I leave 2, the heir & the spare). Let them go nuts again this next year, then repeat the pruning process. I seal some stubs, others I leave open to rot out a bit and get craggy. Don't even worry about primary branch placement at this point... David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7) Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com email: ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Marc Zimmerman++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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