[IBC] layering a wild tree
Im thinking about air layering rather than "digging up" a large field maple
in my back yard. Is there anything special about doing this for wild trees vs trees established in containers? The tree is about a 15-20 foot tall maple. trunk diameter maybe 2-3 inches. My plan is to chop it to a stump sometime soon. Then in the spring... I'm guessing it will get a rush of some new growth and after it hardens off i can layer it and remove it by summer. thanks steve lancaster pa ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] layering a wild tree
Steve:
I am sure there are more experience on this list, that will chime in, but rather than chop the tree and air layer in the same year sounds like a lot of trauma for a tree. Plus, the best time to air layer would probably be in late spring after the new flush of leaves have hardened off. If it was my tree I would do the trunk chop, wait a year or even two, style the part you want to keep and then air layer. Carl L. Rosner - near Atlantic City zone 6/7 http://bmee.net/rosner http://www.jamesbaird.com/cgi-bin/Ja...d=00000068 48 Steve Wolfinger wrote: Im thinking about air layering rather than "digging up" a large field maple in my back yard. Is there anything special about doing this for wild trees vs trees established in containers? The tree is about a 15-20 foot tall maple. trunk diameter maybe 2-3 inches. My plan is to chop it to a stump sometime soon. Then in the spring... I'm guessing it will get a rush of some new growth and after it hardens off i can layer it and remove it by summer. thanks steve lancaster pa ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] layering a wild tree
Here's my thoughts....my theory. I may be totally off.
I trunk chop now.... while the tree is dormant. Since the tree is well established with an extensive root system.... there should be a lot of stored energy going to a small area in the spring.... the stump remaining. because of this im thinking there should be some prolific growth and the tree should be strong because the roots have never been touched. After the leaves harden off in late spring......air layer at the base.. with a large ring cut and wire tie off. I guess it would be better to let the tree go for a year to recover.. but would it really need to recover?.. it seems to me that because the roots system has not been touched.. and the trunk chop done in late winter while the tree is dormant ....that the trauma to the tree would really be minimal (rather arrogant of me to assume??? ). and air layering sooner than later.. rather than training the tree in the ground... would give more time to start developing the nebari. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] layering a wild tree
How far down do you intend to do your trunk chop? If the diameter is only
2-3 inches it would most likely be pretty low. I have never collected a field grown tree, but I have done alot of reading about it because I have a field grown Japanese Maple I want to dig up in a year or so. From what I have read and been told it might be a good idea to take a shovel and drive it down through the roots about a foot away from the base of the tree after the new growth has hardened off. From what I gather, that will cause new roots to grow in closer to the trunk and then when they have established themselves you can do the trunk chop the following year and the new roots will support the growth you want to develop your future design plans. After you get your growth started then you can dig it up in spring and put it into a training box. Anyone with better ideas please chime in. Otherwise this is what I intend to do with my field grown Japanese Maple next year. --I crucified my hate and held the world within my hands-- Neal Ross-Marysville CA ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] layering a wild tree
I would wait several years before layering it off. By
leaving it in the ground the new apex will thicken and blend into the stump a lot faster. Unless you plan to put the layered top back into the ground (which I doubt.) If you move it into a pot, it will be a long time before the fact that it was trunk choped stops being obvious. Rebecca Ridout-- --MD,USA _____________________________ For the best comics, toys, movies, and more, please visit http://www.tfaw.com/?qt=wmf ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] layering a wild tree
the reason i would like to air layer.. is because the tree has a big ugly
curve right as it comes out of he ground ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
[IBC] layering a wild tree
On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 08:13:50 -0800, Becca Ridout
wrote: I would wait several years before layering it off. By leaving it in the ground the new apex will thicken and blend into the stump a lot faster. Unless you plan to put the layered top back into the ground (which I doubt.) If you move it into a pot, it will be a long time before the fact that it was trunk choped stops being obvious. Rebecca Ridout-- --MD,USA _____________________________ For the best comics, toys, movies, and more, please visit http://www.tfaw.com/?qt=wmf ************************************************* ************************** ***** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************* ************************** ***** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ that is a good point rebecca.... which brings me to another question. I wish i had a place to plant out some of my other trees which are of course in large nursery pots. I know trees thicken much quicker in the ground... and this makes sense.. but what is the difference really... between using a really large container to grow your tree out... and putting it in the ground? the perfect soil drainage the earth provides? I have read that even seedlings..just having sprouted will grow faster the more room they are given (in say a large pot vs. an X-large pt) it almost seems as if trees "know" where they are ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jerry Meislik++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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