Although it is true that Some cultivars can be grown as cuttings. some do
not develop strong roots so they do better as grafts. Some cultivars have subtle
differences which makes it necwsary to graft The Bloodgood grows from seeds
on Long Island. Some seed grown seem to maintain the color. Matter of fact
there are few cultivars developed that are just improvemeents to the Bloodgood

SteveW


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Although it is true that Some cultivars can be grown as cuttings. some do
not develop strong roots so they do better as grafts. Some cultivars have subtle
differences which makes it necwsary to graft The Bloodgood grows from seeds
on Long Island. Some seed grown seem to maintain the color. Matter of fact
there are few cultivars developed that are just improvemeents to the Bloodgood

SteveW


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-----Original Message-----
From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of
Henrik Gistvall


What has been the problem with the airlayering? I´m planning an airlayer
this spring on a basic A palmatum. Was an dissectum graft but it died
back. Three suckers developed from the base and I have trained it like a
multi trunk. Now I need to airlayer it. Any tips for success? (I might
add that rooting hormones is illegal in Sweden so I have to do without).


Then, on 7 Nov 2004 at 10:51, MartyWeiser wrote:

I agree with Jim about the length of the growing season being
an issue. I also find keeping them at the right moisture level
to be a potential problem.

And, also on 7 Nov 2004, I write:

I did no extra watering. I used FRESHLY harvested sphagnum moss
and wrapped it dripping wet in heavy plastic. I figured with
the fairly frequent rains we get it would stay damp enough. I
seem to have been right. (I've never had a layer dry out,
however.)

Then, reading my newest book, "Pocket Bonsai," which, generally
speaking, is the exception that proves the rule in the accuracy
of the horticultural info presented (in a book on Bonsai), I
read in the section on air layering:

"Don't worry about the moss drying out: as the new roots take in
moisture, the xylem remains active and will be continually
pumping water into the moss!" (!?)

I'm not at all sure what this xylem pump is doing BEFORE roots
form, but maybe this is one of the reasons my moss says damp
enough. (?)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ******************************
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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of
Henrik Gistvall


What has been the problem with the airlayering? I´m planning an airlayer
this spring on a basic A palmatum. Was an dissectum graft but it died
back. Three suckers developed from the base and I have trained it like a
multi trunk. Now I need to airlayer it. Any tips for success? (I might
add that rooting hormones is illegal in Sweden so I have to do without).


Then, on 7 Nov 2004 at 10:51, MartyWeiser wrote:

I agree with Jim about the length of the growing season being
an issue. I also find keeping them at the right moisture level
to be a potential problem.

And, also on 7 Nov 2004, I write:

I did no extra watering. I used FRESHLY harvested sphagnum moss
and wrapped it dripping wet in heavy plastic. I figured with
the fairly frequent rains we get it would stay damp enough. I
seem to have been right. (I've never had a layer dry out,
however.)

Then, reading my newest book, "Pocket Bonsai," which, generally
speaking, is the exception that proves the rule in the accuracy
of the horticultural info presented (in a book on Bonsai), I
read in the section on air layering:

"Don't worry about the moss drying out: as the new roots take in
moisture, the xylem remains active and will be continually
pumping water into the moss!" (!?)

I'm not at all sure what this xylem pump is doing BEFORE roots
form, but maybe this is one of the reasons my moss says damp
enough. (?)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

-----Original Message-----
From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of
Henrik Gistvall


What has been the problem with the airlayering? I´m planning an airlayer
this spring on a basic A palmatum. Was an dissectum graft but it died
back. Three suckers developed from the base and I have trained it like a
multi trunk. Now I need to airlayer it. Any tips for success? (I might
add that rooting hormones is illegal in Sweden so I have to do without).


Then, on 7 Nov 2004 at 10:51, MartyWeiser wrote:

I agree with Jim about the length of the growing season being
an issue. I also find keeping them at the right moisture level
to be a potential problem.

And, also on 7 Nov 2004, I write:

I did no extra watering. I used FRESHLY harvested sphagnum moss
and wrapped it dripping wet in heavy plastic. I figured with
the fairly frequent rains we get it would stay damp enough. I
seem to have been right. (I've never had a layer dry out,
however.)

Then, reading my newest book, "Pocket Bonsai," which, generally
speaking, is the exception that proves the rule in the accuracy
of the horticultural info presented (in a book on Bonsai), I
read in the section on air layering:

"Don't worry about the moss drying out: as the new roots take in
moisture, the xylem remains active and will be continually
pumping water into the moss!" (!?)

I'm not at all sure what this xylem pump is doing BEFORE roots
form, but maybe this is one of the reasons my moss says damp
enough. (?)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

I've been layering many Japanese maples from a tree that grew from the
stock of a failed graft. It's 6' tall and so far I've got 15 successful
layers and 2 failures. They all seem to take a different length of time
to work. Some fill the bag with roots in a couple of months and others
take all season. I've yet to have one not root, the failures both died
due to a disease of some sort that caused the whole branch to die.

The layers are all slowly building a nice forest of genetically
identical trees. Weird thing is that they seem to display differences in
their leafing out, vigour, leaf size and fall colour and timing despite
shared genetics. I assume that length of time from layering and
"settling in" to growing on new roots must play a part in this.

As to the xylem pump, (if it works, I've seen no evidence myself and
have had to water many layers on this and other species as they dried
out once roots filled the bag) I assume that it would be pumping from
the bottom cut upwards?

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales

I'm not at all sure what this xylem pump is doing BEFORE roots
form, but maybe this is one of the reasons my moss says damp
enough. (?)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** **********************
********
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** **********************
********
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/
--
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail
+++++

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

I've been layering many Japanese maples from a tree that grew from the
stock of a failed graft. It's 6' tall and so far I've got 15 successful
layers and 2 failures. They all seem to take a different length of time
to work. Some fill the bag with roots in a couple of months and others
take all season. I've yet to have one not root, the failures both died
due to a disease of some sort that caused the whole branch to die.

The layers are all slowly building a nice forest of genetically
identical trees. Weird thing is that they seem to display differences in
their leafing out, vigour, leaf size and fall colour and timing despite
shared genetics. I assume that length of time from layering and
"settling in" to growing on new roots must play a part in this.

As to the xylem pump, (if it works, I've seen no evidence myself and
have had to water many layers on this and other species as they dried
out once roots filled the bag) I assume that it would be pumping from
the bottom cut upwards?

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales

I'm not at all sure what this xylem pump is doing BEFORE roots
form, but maybe this is one of the reasons my moss says damp
enough. (?)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** **********************
********
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** **********************
********
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/
--
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail
+++++

---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.788 / Virus Database: 533 - Release Date: 01/11/2004


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.788 / Virus Database: 533 - Release Date: 01/11/2004

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************************************************** ******************************
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On 7 Nov 2004 at 21:39, kevin bailey wrote:


As to the xylem pump, (if it works, I've seen no evidence myself and
have had to water many layers on this and other species as they dried
out once roots filled the bag) I assume that it would be pumping from
the bottom cut upwards?


Oughta be. I'd assumed that he was implying that the moss would
"wick" the moisture throughout the ball.

Anyway, was news to me, too.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

On 7 Nov 2004 at 21:39, kevin bailey wrote:


As to the xylem pump, (if it works, I've seen no evidence myself and
have had to water many layers on this and other species as they dried
out once roots filled the bag) I assume that it would be pumping from
the bottom cut upwards?


Oughta be. I'd assumed that he was implying that the moss would
"wick" the moisture throughout the ball.

Anyway, was news to me, too.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Very helpful. Thanks. I cut the strangler root off already, but it had killed
part of the trunk. I need to cut out the dead part. All the roots are growing
out the back right now, so I need to root prune & do what you suggested.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." Yogi Berra

Very helpful. Thanks. I cut the strangler root off already, but it had killed
part of the trunk. I need to cut out the dead part. All the roots are growing
out the back right now, so I need to root prune & do what you suggested.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." Yogi Berra

Very helpful. Thanks. I cut the strangler root off already, but it had killed
part of the trunk. I need to cut out the dead part. All the roots are growing
out the back right now, so I need to root prune & do what you suggested.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." Yogi Berra

Then, reading my newest book, "Pocket Bonsai," which, generally
speaking, is the exception that proves the rule in the accuracy
of the horticultural info presented (in a book on Bonsai), I
read in the section on air layering:

"Don't worry about the moss drying out: as the new roots take in
moisture, the xylem remains active and will be continually
pumping water into the moss!" (!?)

I'm not at all sure what this xylem pump is doing BEFORE roots
form, but maybe this is one of the reasons my moss says damp
enough. (?)

I have no idea what the author of the book is talking about. He may be
saying that the parent roots of the tree are supplying water to the
new roots that are forming in the air-layer; this might be true as
long as there are leaves present above the air-layer area to act as
transpiration pumps. But I wouldn't count on this; roots won't form
on an airlayer unless the area is protected from evaporation, and the
best way to make sure the sphagnum (or whatever) is still damp is to
check it occasionally and moisten it.

Nina

wrote:


Looking through Vertrees, it most closely matches the description of 'Nishiki
Momiji,' but doesn't look exactly like the pictures on the Web.
The twigs & petioles right now are dark red. I think they were green earlier.
Young leaves are light yellowish green with a reddish picotee. Summer color
is generic green.
Can anyone take a guess? I don't have a decent picture.
Iris
800 varaities of palmatim and much much similars one to another
the red petioles get red in jiune and when red they are telling you
that *can be defoliated if you wish as they are mature *
teh red color is probabyl du to lack of fertilizer generalyl i s
sugegsted to stop fertilizing in july if one wants to get bright colors
( or defoliate)
if the roots are faulty eiter you can inplant roots or stimulate the
birth of some roots where are missing with different techniques or
make an air layering to make a new better Neabari
you can do a lot and very easily with a Maple



MSN messanger / or ICQ 25 666 169 4
Private Mail :
«»«»«» Just for today... don't worry .....be happy «»«»«»

I Like a truck that looks stressed. It gives it character. many Japanese Maples have interesting features. I have a few Palmatum seedlings that I have been working with. they come from a weeping palmatum. I made a forest of a few and I have a few that I am training as individual trees. one of these trees has the most fantastic pink color in the spring through part of the summer. You would think this is a special cultivar, but it isn't.

--
SteveW
Long Island NY

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************************************************** ******************************
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