I've read of different methods for airlayering. One of course is wrapping
the wound in sphagnum moss, then the moss ball in clear plastic sheeting. I
have also read of securing a 4" pot (or slightly bigger) around the moss
ball and leaving it open.

It seems the disadvantage of the open pot would be the rate at which it
would dry out, but it seems it would also give easier access to watering.
Concerning the plastic wrap, someone on the list once suggested that the
closed clear plastic wrap could result in much greater internal heat during
the hottest days, resulting in "parboiled maple." The open pot would seem
to allow excess heat to dissipate...(?)

Any recommendations on each of these methods?

Also, I've received conflicting advice about the timing of airlayering A.
plamatum. One one side, I was told to wait until late spring, when the
leaves had sufficiently hardened off; on the other side, if you wait much
past early spring it will be too hot. It is June in Houston, temps are in
the 90s and I have 4 months of growing season left. Can I airlayer today?

Thanks!
Blake in Houston

Blake: As you note, there are advantages and disadvantages to
both air layering techniques. Both work; it's your call.
And, yes, this is a perfect time to start an air layer in
Houston. I recall someone once saying they do it any time between
Mothers' Day and Fathers' Day. As long as you don't take it too
rigidly, this is a good rule of thumb.

Alan Walker
http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org


-----Original Message-----
From: Blake Wilkins
I've read of different methods for airlayering. One of course is
wrapping
the wound in sphagnum moss, then the moss ball in clear plastic
sheeting. I have also read of securing a 4" pot (or slightly
bigger) around the moss ball and leaving it open.

It seems the disadvantage of the open pot would be the rate at
which it
would dry out, but it seems it would also give easier access to
watering.
Concerning the plastic wrap, someone on the list once suggested
that the closed clear plastic wrap could result in much greater
internal heat during the hottest days, resulting in "parboiled
maple." The open pot would seem to allow excess heat to
dissipate... (?)
Any recommendations on each of these methods?

Also, I've received conflicting advice about the timing of
airlayering A.
plamatum. One one side, I was told to wait until late spring,
when the
leaves had sufficiently hardened off; on the other side, if you
wait much
past early spring it will be too hot. It is June in Houston,
temps are in
the 90s and I have 4 months of growing season left. Can I
airlayer today?
Thanks!
Blake in Houston

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

I used a rater unconventional device for my first air-layer attempt. There
is a photo and description on the website
(http://internetbonsaiclub.org/simple.../catid,3/id,14
885/#14885)

The container is a clear plastic drink container, split with a hack saw, and
watered by my drip irrigation system. No need to worry about watering all
throughout the summer months.

Tony Ashton.
Portland Or.

-----Original Message-----
From: Internet Bonsai Club ] On Behalf Of
Alan Walker
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 11:05 AM
To:
Subject: [IBC] Air Layer - Plastic sheeting vs. open pot

Blake: As you note, there are advantages and disadvantages to
both air layering techniques. Both work; it's your call.
And, yes, this is a perfect time to start an air layer in
Houston. I recall someone once saying they do it any time between
Mothers' Day and Fathers' Day. As long as you don't take it too
rigidly, this is a good rule of thumb.

Alan Walker
http://bonsai-bci.com http://LCBSBonsai.org


-----Original Message-----
From: Blake Wilkins
I've read of different methods for airlayering. One of course is
wrapping
the wound in sphagnum moss, then the moss ball in clear plastic
sheeting. I have also read of securing a 4" pot (or slightly
bigger) around the moss ball and leaving it open.

It seems the disadvantage of the open pot would be the rate at
which it
would dry out, but it seems it would also give easier access to
watering.
Concerning the plastic wrap, someone on the list once suggested
that the closed clear plastic wrap could result in much greater
internal heat during the hottest days, resulting in "parboiled
maple." The open pot would seem to allow excess heat to
dissipate... (?)
Any recommendations on each of these methods?

Also, I've received conflicting advice about the timing of
airlayering A.
plamatum. One one side, I was told to wait until late spring,
when the
leaves had sufficiently hardened off; on the other side, if you
wait much
past early spring it will be too hot. It is June in Houston,
temps are in
the 90s and I have 4 months of growing season left. Can I
airlayer today?
Thanks!
Blake in Houston

************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** **************************
****
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Blake Wilkins wrote:
I've read of different methods for airlayering. One of course is wrapping
the wound in sphagnum moss, then the moss ball in clear plastic sheeting. I
have also read of securing a 4" pot (or slightly bigger) around the moss
ball and leaving it open.

If you wrap the sheeting in aluminum foil, you don't have
the parboiling problem. Sunlight and heat reflect outward
(and contribute to global warming).

I use the pot method more than the other, but I use compost
in the pot, rather than sphagnum, though with hard-to-root
species I'll probably add about 1/2 chopped sphagnum. And
yes, you need to keep an eye on it -- both for moisture and
for hard rain washing the material out of the pot.

I used the plastic-wrap method on a 15-foot maple (two
layers) last year. I applied the layer before leaves came
out and lifted the layer in the following November last
year. Both are doing fine this year. Now, IMHO, is near
the end of the optimum period, though you can keep the layer
on the tree until a hard freeze is expected.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thanks to all for their comments.

Jim, what sort of compost do you use in these pots?


in article , Jim Lewis at
wrote on 6/11/05 3:35 PM:

Blake Wilkins wrote:
I've read of different methods for airlayering. One of course is wrapping
the wound in sphagnum moss, then the moss ball in clear plastic sheeting. I
have also read of securing a 4" pot (or slightly bigger) around the moss
ball and leaving it open.

If you wrap the sheeting in aluminum foil, you don't have
the parboiling problem. Sunlight and heat reflect outward
(and contribute to global warming).

I use the pot method more than the other, but I use compost
in the pot, rather than sphagnum, though with hard-to-root
species I'll probably add about 1/2 chopped sphagnum. And
yes, you need to keep an eye on it -- both for moisture and
for hard rain washing the material out of the pot.

I used the plastic-wrap method on a 15-foot maple (two
layers) last year. I applied the layer before leaves came
out and lifted the layer in the following November last
year. Both are doing fine this year. Now, IMHO, is near
the end of the optimum period, though you can keep the layer
on the tree until a hard freeze is expected.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************** ****************************
**
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ****************************
**
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Blake Wilkins wrote:
Thanks to all for their comments.

Jim, what sort of compost do you use in these pots?



Homemade stuff -- horse manure/hay/wood chips/various
clippings, etc.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Kevin Bailey++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++