A few of my tomato plants have developed brown spots and yellowing, which
according to a book on tomato problems I have, appears to be Gray Leaf Spot
or Early Blight. It seems more like the former.

Anyway, they say to plant resistant varieties or rotate crops, but list
either as a disease to be treated with fungicide. What fungicide do you use
to treat this? Would it be chemical or natural?

Thanks.

'oirQuoting FDR:
A few of my tomato plants have developed brown spots and yellowing, which
according to a book on tomato problems I have, appears to be Gray Leaf Spot
or Early Blight. It seems more like the former.

I would suggest that you take a look at the below website, if you're
not already familiar with it:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/

Anyway, they say to plant resistant varieties or rotate crops, but list
either as a disease to be treated with fungicide. What fungicide do you use
to treat this? Would it be chemical or natural?

I use Daconil (aka Ortho Garden Disease Control). Once a week spray
as a preventative. Must be applied so as to coat all plant surfaces
(it is not systemic) it 'seals' the plant.

It is not 'organic', but as far as toxicity goes, I am comfortable
with using it -- more comfortable than say rotenone, or pyrethrins
(organic) for example.

It also helps to only water the plants in the early part of the day so
that the foliage can quickly dry. Mulching is also helpful as it
limits splash back of fungal spores from soil.

"Suze" suze_anderson@spamcop/dot/obvious wrote in message
...
'oirQuoting FDR:
A few of my tomato plants have developed brown spots and yellowing, which
according to a book on tomato problems I have, appears to be Gray Leaf
Spot
or Early Blight. It seems more like the former.

I would suggest that you take a look at the below website, if you're
not already familiar with it:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/

Anyway, they say to plant resistant varieties or rotate crops, but list
either as a disease to be treated with fungicide. What fungicide do you
use
to treat this? Would it be chemical or natural?

I use Daconil (aka Ortho Garden Disease Control). Once a week spray
as a preventative. Must be applied so as to coat all plant surfaces
(it is not systemic) it 'seals' the plant.

It is not 'organic', but as far as toxicity goes, I am comfortable
with using it -- more comfortable than say rotenone, or pyrethrins
(organic) for example.

It also helps to only water the plants in the early part of the day so
that the foliage can quickly dry. Mulching is also helpful as it
limits splash back of fungal spores from soil.


Thanks for the website. I strictly use dripper tubes for irrigation so I
can't do anything more there.

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 23:44:59 -0500, Suze
suze_anderson@spamcop/dot/obvious wrote:

I use Daconil (aka Ortho Garden Disease Control). Once a week spray
as a preventative. Must be applied so as to coat all plant surfaces
(it is not systemic) it 'seals' the plant.

I've been using Daconil this year, too. The spring was wet and cold,
and the summer wet and hot; prefect for growing fungi, but not so
perfect for tomatoes. The problem has been that Daconil needs to be on
the plant for 24 hours, and early this summer, we had rain almost
everyday.

Around here, this was just a bad year for the garden. Everyone I talk
to says the same thing, that they didn't get much from their gardens,
and disease took most of the plants early. It's frustrating, but I
guess it's just part of a greater cycle. Last year I had bumper tomato
and pepper crops. This year I had enough tomatoes to keep me in fresh
fruit, but not much for sharing. My peppers are just now starting to
bear well, and some that produced heavily last year have almost no
fruit this year.

I know, I know, patience is a virtue.


Penelope, it's just not one of mine.

FDR wrote:

A few of my tomato plants have developed brown spots and yellowing, which
according to a book on tomato problems I have, appears to be Gray Leaf Spot
or Early Blight. It seems more like the former.

Anyway, they say to plant resistant varieties or rotate crops, but list
either as a disease to be treated with fungicide. What fungicide do you use
to treat this? Would it be chemical or natural?

Thanks.


I used Bravo fungicide. You can use it on cukes and beans as well.

"Penelope Periwinkle" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 23:44:59 -0500, Suze
suze_anderson@spamcop/dot/obvious wrote:

I use Daconil (aka Ortho Garden Disease Control). Once a week spray
as a preventative. Must be applied so as to coat all plant surfaces
(it is not systemic) it 'seals' the plant.

I've been using Daconil this year, too. The spring was wet and cold,
and the summer wet and hot; prefect for growing fungi, but not so
perfect for tomatoes. The problem has been that Daconil needs to be on
the plant for 24 hours, and early this summer, we had rain almost
everyday.

Around here, this was just a bad year for the garden. Everyone I talk
to says the same thing, that they didn't get much from their gardens,
and disease took most of the plants early. It's frustrating, but I
guess it's just part of a greater cycle. Last year I had bumper tomato
and pepper crops. This year I had enough tomatoes to keep me in fresh
fruit, but not much for sharing. My peppers are just now starting to
bear well, and some that produced heavily last year have almost no
fruit this year.

I know, I know, patience is a virtue.

Tjis year was pretty bad here too in central NY. Had lettuce and some
cucmber, but it took until just this week to start getting some tomatos.
Carrots were wiped out by grass, and my pole beans are still sitting there
waiting to bear fruit.




Penelope, it's just not one of mine.

Penelope Periwinkle wrote:

On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 23:44:59 -0500, Suze
suze_anderson@spamcop/dot/obvious wrote:


I use Daconil (aka Ortho Garden Disease Control). Once a week spray
as a preventative. Must be applied so as to coat all plant surfaces
(it is not systemic) it 'seals' the plant.


I've been using Daconil this year, too. The spring was wet and cold,
and the summer wet and hot; prefect for growing fungi, but not so
perfect for tomatoes. The problem has been that Daconil needs to be on
the plant for 24 hours, and early this summer, we had rain almost
everyday.

Around here, this was just a bad year for the garden. Everyone I talk
to says the same thing, that they didn't get much from their gardens,
and disease took most of the plants early. It's frustrating, but I
guess it's just part of a greater cycle. Last year I had bumper tomato
and pepper crops. This year I had enough tomatoes to keep me in fresh
fruit, but not much for sharing. My peppers are just now starting to
bear well, and some that produced heavily last year have almost no
fruit this year.

I know, I know, patience is a virtue.

A boat we know of is named *Patience my ass*. We always get a chuckle
when we see it


Penelope, it's just not one of mine.

Quoting Penelope Periwinkle:
suze_anderson@spamcop/dot/obvious wrote:

I use Daconil (aka Ortho Garden Disease Control). Once a week spray
as a preventative. Must be applied so as to coat all plant surfaces
(it is not systemic) it 'seals' the plant.

I've been using Daconil this year, too. The spring was wet and cold,
and the summer wet and hot; prefect for growing fungi, but not so
perfect for tomatoes. The problem has been that Daconil needs to be on
the plant for 24 hours, and early this summer, we had rain almost
everyday.

Yep, that's tough. When one needs it most, it won't stay on the
plant. Though it's usually on the dry side here, I experienced this
first hand last year when it just rained and rained late last summer.

One thing I'm considering experimenting with next year is the aspirin
treatment. Sounds like it's more of a systemic way to toughen up a
plant and trigger natural defenses, much like harpin (Messenger) is.

http://www.plantea.com/plant-aspirin.htm

http://www.garden.org/regional/report/arch/gv/1757

You could also do a search on Gardenweb (it's been mentioned a bunch
there), if you're familiar with that venue.