Path Edging
 

On 10/02/09 21:31, brooklyn1 wrote:
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:4991DD9F.1050906@directory...
On 10/02/09 15:40, Jangchub wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:11:50 +0000, Ed ex@directory wrote:

I want to put a path down the centre of my allotment and contain it
within a wooden framework.

I am thinking of using long lengths of gravel boards, on either side of
the path, that are 6" x 1" and screwing these onto 2ft 6" stakes that I
will hammer into the ground. Is this a good way to go?

The stakes are 2" x 2" and I am thinking of cutting the ends to a 45
degree angle so as to ease them into the ground when I hammer them in.
Is this good or would a shallower angle be better?

Ed

What's the length of this path? Cast concrete edging is available in many
configurations and colors but will cost more than wood and is more laborious
to install but is probably a best choice for durability and aesthetic value.
If your path is not of any great length and/or money is no object then you
may want to consider natural stone (coblestones are nice). If you use a
thick layer of mulch and the path is trodden regularly you won't need the
fabric.



The path is 50 ft long x 3 ft wide. The surface should be fairly even
as I want to be able to push a wheelbarrow along without much effort.

Ed

Path Edging
 

Ed said:

The path is 50 ft long x 3 ft wide. The surface should be fairly even
as I want to be able to push a wheelbarrow along without much effort.


How permanent do you want this path to be?

For my vegetable garden, the paths are leveled sections covered by
a heavy-duty woven nursery fabric. For an example only, see:
http://btgrowersupply.stores.yahoo.net/grouncovfab.html

This needs to be broomed off in the spring but has lasted for years.
(Before I bought this, I used strips of old carpet I'd salvaged to make
my paths,)

Fabric can be taken up and moved very easily. And it's no problem
to wheel a garden cart or hand truck over the fabric paths.


For a permanent path (and not considering expenses for the moment)
I've set in one stretch of concrete pavers on a thick sand base, and
used plastic edging to contain the pavers. Something like in this example:
http://www.pavetech.com/paveedge/report.shtm

This involved using some heavy machinery to tamp down the sand for
sub-base and set the pavers into a

Under a tree (where I could not do the full excavation needed to lay
a proper base for pavers) I have a less formal path made from hand
compacted paver base with large flagstones set in it. This is not
quite flat and smooth, but it's still easy to roll a cart down it.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI

After enlightenment, the laundry.

email valid but not regularly monitored

for better results:
change user name to 'kiewicz'
change domain name to 'comcast.net'

Path Edging
 

"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:499292E3.9050303@directory...
On 10/02/09 21:31, brooklyn1 wrote:
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:4991DD9F.1050906@directory...
On 10/02/09 15:40, Jangchub wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:11:50 +0000, Ed ex@directory wrote:

I want to put a path down the centre of my allotment and contain it
within a wooden framework.

I am thinking of using long lengths of gravel boards, on either side
of the path, that are 6" x 1" and screwing these onto 2ft 6" stakes
that I will hammer into the ground. Is this a good way to go?

The stakes are 2" x 2" and I am thinking of cutting the ends to a 45
degree angle so as to ease them into the ground when I hammer them in.
Is this good or would a shallower angle be better?

Ed

What's the length of this path? Cast concrete edging is available in
many configurations and colors but will cost more than wood and is more
laborious to install but is probably a best choice for durability and
aesthetic value. If your path is not of any great length and/or money is
no object then you may want to consider natural stone (coblestones are
nice). If you use a thick layer of mulch and the path is trodden
regularly you won't need the fabric.

The path is 50 ft long x 3 ft wide. The surface should be fairly even as
I want to be able to push a wheelbarrow along without much effort.

Ed

Depending on the weight in the barrow it may not push easily on mulch. For
such a small path (only 50' X 3' = a mere 150 sq ft) I'd seriously consider
some sort of pavers.

Path Edging
 

On 11/02/09 13:14, brooklyn1 wrote:
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:499292E3.9050303@directory...
On 10/02/09 21:31, brooklyn1 wrote:
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:4991DD9F.1050906@directory...
On 10/02/09 15:40, Jangchub wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:11:50 +0000, Ed ex@directory wrote:

I want to put a path down the centre of my allotment and contain it
within a wooden framework.

I am thinking of using long lengths of gravel boards, on either side
of the path, that are 6" x 1" and screwing these onto 2ft 6" stakes
that I will hammer into the ground. Is this a good way to go?

The stakes are 2" x 2" and I am thinking of cutting the ends to a 45
degree angle so as to ease them into the ground when I hammer them in.
Is this good or would a shallower angle be better?

Ed
What's the length of this path? Cast concrete edging is available in
many configurations and colors but will cost more than wood and is more
laborious to install but is probably a best choice for durability and
aesthetic value. If your path is not of any great length and/or money is
no object then you may want to consider natural stone (coblestones are
nice). If you use a thick layer of mulch and the path is trodden
regularly you won't need the fabric.
The path is 50 ft long x 3 ft wide. The surface should be fairly even as
I want to be able to push a wheelbarrow along without much effort.

Ed

Depending on the weight in the barrow it may not push easily on mulch. For
such a small path (only 50' X 3' = a mere 150 sq ft) I'd seriously consider
some sort of pavers.




Yeah , I think you are probably right.

So, based on the advice given here, I am minded to use 8ft (or 10ft) x
6 inch x 1 inch wooden gravel board planks to contain the path which I
will cover with anti-weed fabric and then lay concrete slabs (pavers) on
top spaced about 6 inches apart.

Think that should do the business?

Ed

Path Edging
 

"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:4992DFAF.9020408@directory...
On 11/02/09 13:14, brooklyn1 wrote:
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:499292E3.9050303@directory...
On 10/02/09 21:31, brooklyn1 wrote:
"Ed" ex@directory wrote in message news:4991DD9F.1050906@directory...
On 10/02/09 15:40, Jangchub wrote:
On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:11:50 +0000, Ed ex@directory wrote:

I want to put a path down the centre of my allotment and contain it
within a wooden framework.

I am thinking of using long lengths of gravel boards, on either
side of the path, that are 6" x 1" and screwing these onto 2ft 6"
stakes that I will hammer into the ground. Is this a good way to
go?

The stakes are 2" x 2" and I am thinking of cutting the ends to a 45
degree angle so as to ease them into the ground when I hammer them
in. Is this good or would a shallower angle be better?

Ed
What's the length of this path? Cast concrete edging is available in
many configurations and colors but will cost more than wood and is more
laborious to install but is probably a best choice for durability and
aesthetic value. If your path is not of any great length and/or money
is no object then you may want to consider natural stone (coblestones
are nice). If you use a thick layer of mulch and the path is trodden
regularly you won't need the fabric.
The path is 50 ft long x 3 ft wide. The surface should be fairly even
as I want to be able to push a wheelbarrow along without much effort.

Ed

Depending on the weight in the barrow it may not push easily on mulch.
For such a small path (only 50' X 3' = a mere 150 sq ft) I'd seriously
consider some sort of pavers.




Yeah , I think you are probably right.

So, based on the advice given here, I am minded to use 8ft (or 10ft) x 6
inch x 1 inch wooden gravel board planks to contain the path which I will
cover with anti-weed fabric and then lay concrete slabs (pavers) on top
spaced about 6 inches apart.

Think that should do the business?


You don't need cloth under the pavers, it won't dry so will quickly rot
away, and it won't do anything for the pavers anyway. But 3-4 inches of
compacted sand would make a good base.

Path Edging
 

Can't remember where I read it, but a French recipe for public parks in clay
areas is to mix some chalk (or lime) and sand with the clay. This produces a
fairly hard but permeable surface.

Does anyone have more precise information?

Regards


"Pat Kiewicz" a écrit dans le message de news:
...
Ed said:

The path is 50 ft long x 3 ft wide. The surface should be fairly even
as I want to be able to push a wheelbarrow along without much effort.


How permanent do you want this path to be?

For my vegetable garden, the paths are leveled sections covered by
a heavy-duty woven nursery fabric. For an example only, see:
http://btgrowersupply.stores.yahoo.net/grouncovfab.html

This needs to be broomed off in the spring but has lasted for years.
(Before I bought this, I used strips of old carpet I'd salvaged to make
my paths,)

Fabric can be taken up and moved very easily. And it's no problem
to wheel a garden cart or hand truck over the fabric paths.


For a permanent path (and not considering expenses for the moment)
I've set in one stretch of concrete pavers on a thick sand base, and
used plastic edging to contain the pavers. Something like in this
example:
http://www.pavetech.com/paveedge/report.shtm

This involved using some heavy machinery to tamp down the sand for
sub-base and set the pavers into a

Under a tree (where I could not do the full excavation needed to lay
a proper base for pavers) I have a less formal path made from hand
compacted paver base with large flagstones set in it. This is not
quite flat and smooth, but it's still easy to roll a cart down it.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI

After enlightenment, the laundry.

email valid but not regularly monitored

for better results:
change user name to 'kiewicz'
change domain name to 'comcast.net'