I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on
weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the
mulch.)

I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm
concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant
2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be
eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as
I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material.

Here's what I have ideas of using:

- newspapers
- straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good
source near Boston?)
- cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder
tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers)


Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't
have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my
neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.

Thanks!

Priscilla
urban organic gardener in zone 6
--
"What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means
of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works."
- Chris Malcolm

In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:

I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on
weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the
mulch.)

I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm
concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant
2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be
eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as
I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material.

Here's what I have ideas of using:

- newspapers
Newspapers are good. The dye is soy based. The pages block sunlight and
suppress weeds. I usually put my soil amendments down first.
- straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good
source near Boston?)
Check feed stores, or farm supplies. I prefer alfalfa, because it has
more nitrogen. If you use alfalfa, it is best to water it occasional for
a couple of weeks before you plant. I use a sharpened shovel handle
(dibble) to make planting holes in order to avoid turning the soil.
- cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder
"wood often contains potentially fungitoxic compounds, which are
deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds
are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins,
making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a
range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and
tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which
act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly
abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for
high-quality garden furnishings, etc."
http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro
ts.htm
If you plan on feeding it to your soil, I'd find something else.
tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers)



Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't
have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my
neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.
See below. Remember you want a 25/1 carbon to nitrogen ratio from your
mulch.

Thanks!

Priscilla
urban organic gardener in zone 6
Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting (Third Edition)
(Storey's Down-to-Earth Guides)
by Stu Campbell

http://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Compos...580170234/ref=
sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1294901182&sr=1-1

p.39

Compostable Material Average C/N

Alder or ash leaves ............................ 25

Grass clippings ................................ 25

Leguminous plants (peas,
beans,soybeans) ............................. 15

Manure with bedding ........................... 23

Manure ....................................... 15

Oak leaves .................................... 50

Pine needles .............................. 60-100

Sawdust................................. 150-500

Straw, cornstalks and cobs .................. 50-100

Vegetable trimmings ........................... 25
Aged Chicken Manure**........................* 7
Alfalfa ................................................ 12
Newspaper........................................ 175
-------

http://www.composting101.com/c-n-ratio.html

A Balancing Act (Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios)


All organic matter is made up of substantial amounts of carbon (C)
combined with lesser amounts of nitrogen (N). The balance of these two
elements in an organism is called the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N
ratio). For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the
composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of carbon for
energy and nitrogen for protein production. Scientists (yes, there are
compost scientists) have determined that the fastest way to produce
fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere
around 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N
ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N
ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile.

Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found
in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high
amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high
amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens."

Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios
Browns = High Carbon
C:N
Ashes, wood
25:1
Cardboard, shredded
350:1
Corn stalks
75:1
Fruit waste
35:1
Leaves
60:1
Newspaper, shredded
175:1
Peanut shells
35:1
Pine needles
80:1
Sawdust
325:1
Straw
75:1
Wood chips
400:1
Greens = High Nitrogen
C:N
Alfalfa
12:1
Clover
23:1
Coffee grounds
20:1
Food waste
20:1
Garden waste
30:1
Grass clippings
20:1
Hay
25:1
Manures
15:1
Seaweed
19:1
Vegetable scraps
25:1
Weeds
30:1

Note: Many ingredients used for composting do not have the ideal ratio
of 25-30:1. As a result, most must be mixed to create "the perfect
compost recipe." High C:N ratios may be lowered by adding grass
clippings or manures. Low C:N ratios may be raised by adding paper, dry
leaves or wood chips.

Many home gardeners prefer to put up with a slight odor and keep some
excess nitrogen in the pile, just to make sure there is always enough
around to keep the pile "cooking!" Learn more about building a hot
compost pile here.

-----------
http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.co...ogenratio.html
GREEN (Nitrogen)
BROWN (Carbon)
Aged Chicken Manure*** 7:1

Fresh manures are way to hot and can burn your plants and roots!
Leaves** 60-80:1
One of the most important ingredients for composting, especially
shredded or broken down (leaf mulch).
Food Scraps** 17:1

Vegetable Scraps** 25:1
Straw, Hay** 90:1

The best way to use is to shred for faster breakdown.
Coffee Grounds** 25:1
Sawdust** 500:1

Commercially produced compost is high in sawdust or shredded bark chips.
Use very sparingly!
Grass Clippings - Fresh** 17:1

Dry clippings would be higher in Carbon. Therefore, use as carbon source
if necessary.
Woody chips & twigs** 700:1

Be sparing. Best use is small material at bottom of bin or pile.
Fresh Weeds** 20:1

Make sure you don't compost weeds with seeds, unless you insure that
your pile gets hot - over 140°F/60°C.
Shredded Newspaper** 175:1

Has no nutrient content. Best used in vermicomposting. Always shred and
soak in water for fast breakdown.
Fruit Wastes** 25-40:1
Nut shells** 35:1
Rotted Manure** 20:1

Horse manure should not be used because it contains undigested seeds
that can sprout in the bin.
Pine Needles** 80:1

Use sparingly. Very acidic and waxy; breaks down slowly.
Humus (soil)** 10:1

This is nature's natural ratio. Use sparingly in pile. Best used to
"seal" the pile by putting a 1-2 inch layer on top.
Corn Stalks** 60:1

Shred or cut up in small pieces for fast break down.
Seaweed** 19:1
Peat Moss** 58:1

Has no nutrient value. In the bin it is mostly filler.
General Garden Waste** 30:1

Clippings from plants, stalks, dead flowers, etc. Excellent mix with
leaves
NOTE
The C:N Ratios given in this chart are average and may slightly vary
according to source, researcher or scientist!


"Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words
are the flowers, Kind deeds are the fruits, Take care of your garden,
And keep out the weeds, Fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind
deeds."
- Longfellow 1807*1882


Taxes
Citizen$ --- Government --- Corporations --- Top 1% --Where the
money went

Are you better off than you were 30 years ago? 10 years ago? 1 year ago?

Thank Reaganomics/Thatcherism, a.k.a. Voodoo economics :O(
--
- Billy

Dept. of Defense budget: $663.8 billion
Dept. of Health and Human Services budget: $78.4 billion


Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. This world in arms is not spending money alone. It is spending the sweat of its laborers, the genius of its scientists, the hopes of its children. This is not a way of life at all in any true sense. Under the clouds of war, it is humanity hanging on a cross of iron.
- Dwight D. Eisenhower, 16 April 1953

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 15:37:00 -0400, Peppermint Patootie wrote:

I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on
weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the
mulch.)

I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm
concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant
2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be
eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as
I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material.

Here's what I have ideas of using:

- newspapers
- straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good
source near Boston?)
- cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder
tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers)


Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't
have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my
neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.

Thanks!

Priscilla
urban organic gardener in zone 6

I've been using Mad Mics Mulch, it's based on horse bedding and manure. I
had an incredible tomato crop last year. I got mine from Dr Mulch in
Westford, the closest distributor to you is probably Cambridge Bark and
Loam in Cambridge.

http://www.madmics.com/

In article ,
General Schvantzkoph wrote:

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.

Thanks!

Priscilla
urban organic gardener in zone 6

I've been using Mad Mics Mulch, it's based on horse bedding and manure. I
had an incredible tomato crop last year. I got mine from Dr Mulch in
Westford, the closest distributor to you is probably Cambridge Bark and
Loam in Cambridge.

http://www.madmics.com/

Thanks! I'll look into it.

Priscilla
--
"What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means
of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works."
- Chris Malcolm

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:

I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on
weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the
mulch.)

I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm
concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant
2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be
eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as
I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material.

Here's what I have ideas of using:

- newspapers
Newspapers are good. The dye is soy based. The pages block sunlight and
suppress weeds. I usually put my soil amendments down first.
- straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good
source near Boston?)
Check feed stores, or farm supplies. I prefer alfalfa, because it has
more nitrogen. If you use alfalfa, it is best to water it occasional for
a couple of weeks before you plant. I use a sharpened shovel handle
(dibble) to make planting holes in order to avoid turning the soil.

Good idea. I may not get the straw until after I'm planted, though.

- cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder
"wood often contains potentially fungitoxic compounds, which are
deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds
are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins,
making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a
range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and
tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which
act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly
abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for
high-quality garden furnishings, etc."
http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro
ts.htm

I have no idea what this means.

If you plan on feeding it to your soil, I'd find something else.

OK. In other words, it would hurt my plants or make the veggies toxic?

tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers)



Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't
have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my
neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.
See below. Remember you want a 25/1 carbon to nitrogen ratio from your
mulch.

Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch.


Thanks!

Priscilla

The information below seems to be about composting. I have a copy of
_Let It Rot_. I have a compost heap, but what I'm asking about is
mulch. There are things I might use for mulch that I'd never put in my
compost heap: like landscape fabric, for instance.

Thanks.

Priscilla

urban organic gardener in zone 6
Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting (Third Edition)
(Storey's Down-to-Earth Guides)
by Stu Campbell

http://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Compos...580170234/ref=
sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1294901182&sr=1-1

p.39

Compostable Material Average C/N

Alder or ash leaves ............................ 25

Grass clippings ................................ 25

Leguminous plants (peas,
beans,soybeans) ............................. 15

Manure with bedding ........................... 23

Manure ....................................... 15

Oak leaves .................................... 50

Pine needles .............................. 60-100

Sawdust................................. 150-500

Straw, cornstalks and cobs .................. 50-100

Vegetable trimmings ........................... 25
Aged Chicken Manure**........................* 7
Alfalfa ................................................ 12
Newspaper........................................ 175
-------

http://www.composting101.com/c-n-ratio.html

A Balancing Act (Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios)


All organic matter is made up of substantial amounts of carbon (C)
combined with lesser amounts of nitrogen (N). The balance of these two
elements in an organism is called the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N
ratio). For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the
composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of carbon for
energy and nitrogen for protein production. Scientists (yes, there are
compost scientists) have determined that the fastest way to produce
fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere
around 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N
ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N
ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile.

Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found
in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high
amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high
amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens."

Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios
Browns = High Carbon
C:N
Ashes, wood
25:1
Cardboard, shredded
350:1
Corn stalks
75:1
Fruit waste
35:1
Leaves
60:1
Newspaper, shredded
175:1
Peanut shells
35:1
Pine needles
80:1
Sawdust
325:1
Straw
75:1
Wood chips
400:1
Greens = High Nitrogen
C:N
Alfalfa
12:1
Clover
23:1
Coffee grounds
20:1
Food waste
20:1
Garden waste
30:1
Grass clippings
20:1
Hay
25:1
Manures
15:1
Seaweed
19:1
Vegetable scraps
25:1
Weeds
30:1

Note: Many ingredients used for composting do not have the ideal ratio
of 25-30:1. As a result, most must be mixed to create "the perfect
compost recipe." High C:N ratios may be lowered by adding grass
clippings or manures. Low C:N ratios may be raised by adding paper, dry
leaves or wood chips.

Many home gardeners prefer to put up with a slight odor and keep some
excess nitrogen in the pile, just to make sure there is always enough
around to keep the pile "cooking!" Learn more about building a hot
compost pile here.

-----------
http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.co...ogenratio.html
GREEN (Nitrogen)
BROWN (Carbon)
Aged Chicken Manure*** 7:1

Fresh manures are way to hot and can burn your plants and roots!
Leaves** 60-80:1
One of the most important ingredients for composting, especially
shredded or broken down (leaf mulch).
Food Scraps** 17:1

Vegetable Scraps** 25:1
Straw, Hay** 90:1

The best way to use is to shred for faster breakdown.
Coffee Grounds** 25:1
Sawdust** 500:1

Commercially produced compost is high in sawdust or shredded bark chips.
Use very sparingly!
Grass Clippings - Fresh** 17:1

Dry clippings would be higher in Carbon. Therefore, use as carbon source
if necessary.
Woody chips & twigs** 700:1

Be sparing. Best use is small material at bottom of bin or pile.
Fresh Weeds** 20:1

Make sure you don't compost weeds with seeds, unless you insure that
your pile gets hot - over 140°F/60°C.
Shredded Newspaper** 175:1

Has no nutrient content. Best used in vermicomposting. Always shred and
soak in water for fast breakdown.
Fruit Wastes** 25-40:1
Nut shells** 35:1
Rotted Manure** 20:1

Horse manure should not be used because it contains undigested seeds
that can sprout in the bin.
Pine Needles** 80:1

Use sparingly. Very acidic and waxy; breaks down slowly.
Humus (soil)** 10:1

This is nature's natural ratio. Use sparingly in pile. Best used to
"seal" the pile by putting a 1-2 inch layer on top.
Corn Stalks** 60:1

Shred or cut up in small pieces for fast break down.
Seaweed** 19:1
Peat Moss** 58:1

Has no nutrient value. In the bin it is mostly filler.
General Garden Waste** 30:1

Clippings from plants, stalks, dead flowers, etc. Excellent mix with
leaves
NOTE
The C:N Ratios given in this chart are average and may slightly vary
according to source, researcher or scientist!


"Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words
are the flowers, Kind deeds are the fruits, Take care of your garden,
And keep out the weeds, Fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind
deeds."
- Longfellow 1807*1882


Taxes
Citizen$ --- Government --- Corporations --- Top 1% --Where the
money went

Are you better off than you were 30 years ago? 10 years ago? 1 year ago?

Thank Reaganomics/Thatcherism, a.k.a. Voodoo economics :O(
--
"What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means
of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works."
- Chris Malcolm

In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:

I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on
weeding and water. (I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the
mulch.)

I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. I'm
concerned about: 1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant
2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be
eating i.e. toxic? 3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as
I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material.

Here's what I have ideas of using:

- newspapers
Newspapers are good. The dye is soy based. The pages block sunlight and
suppress weeds. I usually put my soil amendments down first.
- straw (trying to get some bales delivered: anyone know a good
source near Boston?)
Check feed stores, or farm supplies. I prefer alfalfa, because it has
more nitrogen. If you use alfalfa, it is best to water it occasional for
a couple of weeks before you plant. I use a sharpened shovel handle
(dibble) to make planting holes in order to avoid turning the soil.

Good idea. I may not get the straw until after I'm planted, though.
And replace as needed during the season.

There are 2 other wrinkles to the approach I use. I've had problems from
a rascally raccoon, so I now put chicken wire (held down with lawn
staples) over the mulch/newsprint combo. To warm my soil for tomatoes
and peppers I put clear plastic over the mulch/newsprint combo, and
plant through holes I cut, "X", next to drip emitters.

- cedar shavings (are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder

"wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are
deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds
are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins,
making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a
range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and
tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which
act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly
abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for
high-quality garden furnishings, etc."
http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro
ts.htm

I have no idea what this means.

It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to
the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi.
---

Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web
Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777
5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1
(Available at a library near you.)

Chapter 1

Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in
their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates
and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells).
Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer
spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and
FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come
along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest
what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients
as waste.

there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act
as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic
fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no
room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI
or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can
easily be attacked.

Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a
symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical
protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates,
these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant
nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI
are eaten and the plant suffers.

When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other
members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to
other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or
they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and
bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working
on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients
are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the
smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they
release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are
consumed or die.
---

Gaia's Garden, Second Edition: A Guide To Home-Scale Permaculture
(Paperback)
by Toby Hemenway
http://www.amazon.com/Gaias-Garden-S...culture/dp/160
3580298/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1271266976&sr=1-1
(Available at a library near you.)

p.74

"When the leaf is rinsed free of polyphenols and the other
bitter-tasting compounds and tenderized by
moisture, the feast begins. Among the first at the table are bacteria
that have lain dormant on the leaf surface. They revel in the moisture
and begin to bloom, secreting enzymes that tear apart the long chains of
sugar molecules composing' the leaf cell walls. In just hours, the leaf
is speckled with the dark blotches of bacterial colonies. Wind-bome
spores of fungi land and burst into life, and soon the white threads of
fungal cells, called hyphae, knit a lacework across the leaf. Fungi
possess a broad spectrum of enzymes able to digest lignin (the tough
molecules that make wood so strong) and other hard-to-eat components of
plants. This gives them a critical niche in the web of decomposers;
without them, Earth might be neck-deep in fallen, undecomposable tree
trunks.

Moistened by rain and softened by microbial feeding, the leaf quickly
succumbs to attack by larger creatures. Millipedes, pill bugs (isopods),
fly larvae, springtails, oribatid mites, enchytraeid worms, and
earthworms begin to feed on the tasty tissue, shredding the leaf into
small scraps. All of these invertebrates, together with bacteria, algae,
fungi, and threadlike fungal relatives called actinomycetes, are the
first to dine on rotting organic matter. They are called the primary
decomposers."


If you plan on feeding cedarwood to your soil, I'd find something else.

OK. In other words, it would hurt my plants or make the veggies toxic?
No, but cedarwood may reduce the fertility of your soil, if you count on
it for a carbon source.

tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers)



Does anyone have any other good ideas? I don't have a lawn, so don't
have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my
neighbor. I want them for the compost heap anyway.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.
See below. Remember you want a 25/1 carbon to nitrogen ratio from your
mulch.

Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch.

Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression? By blocking the
sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve
moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow
the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away
from where you want it.
If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or
perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork.


Thanks!

Priscilla

The information below seems to be about composting.
Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked
into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet
for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic
gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants.

I hope this helps.
I have a copy of
_Let It Rot_. I have a compost heap, but what I'm asking about is
mulch. There are things I might use for mulch that I'd never put in my
compost heap: like landscape fabric, for instance.

Thanks.

Priscilla

urban organic gardener in zone 6
Let it Rot!: The Gardener's Guide to Composting (Third Edition)
(Storey's Down-to-Earth Guides)
by Stu Campbell

http://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Compos...580170234/ref=
sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1294901182&sr=1-1

p.39

Compostable Material Average C/N

Alder or ash leaves ............................ 25

Grass clippings ................................ 25

Leguminous plants (peas,
beans,soybeans) ............................. 15

Manure with bedding ........................... 23

Manure ....................................... 15

Oak leaves .................................... 50

Pine needles .............................. 60-100

Sawdust................................. 150-500

Straw, cornstalks and cobs .................. 50-100

Vegetable trimmings ........................... 25
Aged Chicken Manure**........................* 7
Alfalfa ................................................ 12
Newspaper........................................ 175
-------

http://www.composting101.com/c-n-ratio.html

A Balancing Act (Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios)


All organic matter is made up of substantial amounts of carbon (C)
combined with lesser amounts of nitrogen (N). The balance of these two
elements in an organism is called the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N
ratio). For best performance, the compost pile, or more to the point the
composting microorganisms, require the correct proportion of carbon for
energy and nitrogen for protein production. Scientists (yes, there are
compost scientists) have determined that the fastest way to produce
fertile, sweet-smelling compost is to maintain a C:N ratio somewhere
around 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, or 25-30:1. If the C:N
ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down. If the C:N
ratio is too low (excess nitrogen) you will end up with a stinky pile.

Below are the average C:N ratios for some common organic materials found
in the compost bin. For our purposes, the materials containing high
amounts of carbon are considered "browns," and materials containing high
amounts of nitrogen are considered "greens."

Estimated Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios
Browns = High Carbon
C:N
Ashes, wood
25:1
Cardboard, shredded
350:1
Corn stalks
75:1
Fruit waste
35:1
Leaves
60:1
Newspaper, shredded
175:1
Peanut shells
35:1
Pine needles
80:1
Sawdust
325:1
Straw
75:1
Wood chips
400:1
Greens = High Nitrogen
C:N
Alfalfa
12:1
Clover
23:1
Coffee grounds
20:1
Food waste
20:1
Garden waste
30:1
Grass clippings
20:1
Hay
25:1
Manures
15:1
Seaweed
19:1
Vegetable scraps
25:1
Weeds
30:1

Note: Many ingredients used for composting do not have the ideal ratio
of 25-30:1. As a result, most must be mixed to create "the perfect
compost recipe." High C:N ratios may be lowered by adding grass
clippings or manures. Low C:N ratios may be raised by adding paper, dry
leaves or wood chips.

Many home gardeners prefer to put up with a slight odor and keep some
excess nitrogen in the pile, just to make sure there is always enough
around to keep the pile "cooking!" Learn more about building a hot
compost pile here.

-----------
http://www.homecompostingmadeeasy.co...ogenratio.html
GREEN (Nitrogen)
BROWN (Carbon)
Aged Chicken Manure*** 7:1

Fresh manures are way to hot and can burn your plants and roots!
Leaves** 60-80:1
One of the most important ingredients for composting, especially
shredded or broken down (leaf mulch).
Food Scraps** 17:1

Vegetable Scraps** 25:1
Straw, Hay** 90:1

The best way to use is to shred for faster breakdown.
Coffee Grounds** 25:1
Sawdust** 500:1

Commercially produced compost is high in sawdust or shredded bark chips.
Use very sparingly!
Grass Clippings - Fresh** 17:1

Dry clippings would be higher in Carbon. Therefore, use as carbon source
if necessary.
Woody chips & twigs** 700:1

Be sparing. Best use is small material at bottom of bin or pile.
Fresh Weeds** 20:1

Make sure you don't compost weeds with seeds, unless you insure that
your pile gets hot - over 140°F/60°C.
Shredded Newspaper** 175:1

Has no nutrient content. Best used in vermicomposting. Always shred and
soak in water for fast breakdown.
Fruit Wastes** 25-40:1
Nut shells** 35:1
Rotted Manure** 20:1

Horse manure should not be used because it contains undigested seeds
that can sprout in the bin.
Pine Needles** 80:1

Use sparingly. Very acidic and waxy; breaks down slowly.
Humus (soil)** 10:1

This is nature's natural ratio. Use sparingly in pile. Best used to
"seal" the pile by putting a 1-2 inch layer on top.
Corn Stalks** 60:1

Shred or cut up in small pieces for fast break down.
Seaweed** 19:1
Peat Moss** 58:1

Has no nutrient value. In the bin it is mostly filler.
General Garden Waste** 30:1

Clippings from plants, stalks, dead flowers, etc. Excellent mix with
leaves
NOTE
The C:N Ratios given in this chart are average and may slightly vary
according to source, researcher or scientist!

Last installment

McGowan's Drinking Guide (Translated from the original German. It's
complicated, OK?)
Drinking Problems

Symptom Fault Action to be Taken

Have awoken to find Have spent the night Look at watch to see if
your bed hard, cold, in the gutter. it is opening time -
and wet. Cannot see If not, treat yourself
bedroom walls. to a lie-in.


"Kind hearts are the gardens, Kind thoughts are the roots, Kind words
are the flowers, Kind deeds are the fruits, Take care of your garden,
And keep out the weeds, Fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind
deeds."
- Longfellow 1807*1882




Taxes
Citizen$ --- Government --- Corporations --- Top 1% --Where our
money went

"America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash. It's
just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the
greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks
and the portfolios of the uber-rich."
http://theuptake.org/2011/03/05/mich...wisconsin-is-b
roke/
--
- Billy

Dept. of Defense budget: $663.8 billion
Dept. of Health and Human Services budget: $78.4 billion


Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. This world in arms is not spending money alone. It is spending the sweat of its laborers, the genius of its scientists, the hopes of its children. This is not a way of life at all in any true sense. Under the clouds of war, it is humanity hanging on a cross of iron.
- Dwight D. Eisenhower, 16 April 1953

On Apr 25, 3:37*pm, Peppermint Patootie
wrote:
I have a small urban organic vegetable garden within the city limits of
Boston, and I'm trying to mulch the heck out of it this year to save on
weeding and water. *(I have soaker hoses I plan to place under the
mulch.)

I have questions about what materials will be best for mulch. *I'm
concerned about: *1) whether the material is good or bad for the plant *
2) whether the material is good or bad for the part of the plant I'll be
eating i.e. toxic? *3) whether the material is a good mulch material (as
I think it is) or if I'm deluded about its utility as a much material.

Here's what I have ideas of using:

- *newspapers
- *straw *(trying to get some bales delivered: *anyone know a good * * *
source near Boston?)
- *cedar shavings *(are they acidic or alkali and would that help/hinder
tomatoes, beans, summer squash, cucumbers)

Does anyone have any other good ideas? *I don't have a lawn, so don't
have lawn clippings, although I might be able to get some from my
neighbor. *I want them for the compost heap anyway.

I'll be grateful for any suggestions or information folks can offer.

Thanks!

Priscilla
urban organic gardener in zone 6
--
"What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means
of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works."
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * - Chris Malcolm

I got a bag of cat litter, compressed pine pellets I cant figure what
to do with it. My one cat can't figure it out!!

I got a bag of cat litter, compressed pine pellets I cant figure what to
do with it. My one cat can't figure it out!!

My cats hated the pine litter also, I used it on my walk this winter which
was a mistake because it's still on the walks, the rain hasn't washed it
away. It's not as bad as the clumping litter, I dumped some of that down a
groundhog hole near my garden a few years ago on the theory that dirty cat
litter would drive the groundhogs away. The clumping litter turns into a
slurry and it never goes away, it's still there years later.

In article
,
Billy wrote:
In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:
In article
,
Billy wrote:
"wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are
deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds
are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link proteins,
making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a
range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and
tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which
act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly
abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for
high-quality garden furnishings, etc."
http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...Biology/woodro
ts.htm

I have no idea what this means.

It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to
the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi.

It's fine by me if the cedar takes a while to decompose. The soil the
plants will be in is very good, and I'd appreciate having mulch that
lasts the season without needing to be replenished. I know that cedar
boards eventually decompose because my old raised bed which were made of
cedar are falling apart after 12 years. The cedar shavings, BTW, are
actually unused "Cedarific" cat litter which my cats don't like. I have
a huge bag and am trying to find a use for it.


---

Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web
Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777
5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1
(Available at a library near you.)

Chapter 1

Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in
their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates
and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells).
Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer
spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and
FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come
along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest
what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients
as waste.

there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act
as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic
fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no
room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI
or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can
easily be attacked.

Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a
symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical
protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates,
these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant
nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI
are eaten and the plant suffers.

When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other
members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to
other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or
they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and
bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working
on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients
are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the
smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they
release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are
consumed or die.
---

OK. I'm more accustomed to fungi being something one has to treat when
it infects plants (or animals/people), so I would have regarded
fungicidal tendencies as a good thing. I am now better educated on the
topic. Thanks.

Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch.

Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression?

Yeah. Weed suffocation. Typo.

By blocking the
sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve
moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow
the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away
from where you want it.
If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or
perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork.

I think I mentioned in my original post that the mulch was going on top
of the soaker hoses.

I haven't got any 6 weeks at this point. I want to put in beans,
squash, etc. next week, and my tomatoes are arriving at the end of May.
And there's lots of other work needing to be done.

The information below seems to be about composting.
Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked
into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet
for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic
gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants.

Yes, I know. I compost, but weeds are so vicious in my yard and
time/energy in short supply, so I'm hoping for mulch that will do its
job and stick around for a while.

I hope this helps.

You've been very helpful. Thanks!

Priscilla
--
"What you fail to understand is that criticising established authority by means
of argument and evidence is a crucial aspect of how science works."
- Chris Malcolm

In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:

In article
,
Billy wrote:
In article
,
Peppermint Patootie wrote:
In article
,
Billy wrote:
"wood often contains potentially FUNGI-TOXIC compounds, which are
deposited in the heartwood. In broad-leaved trees the toxic compounds
are usually tannins, well know for their ability to cross-link
proteins,
making animal skins resistant to decay. In contrast, conifers contain a
range of phenolic compounds such as terpenes, stilbenes, flavonoids and
tropolones. The most toxic of the tropolones are the thujaplicins which
act as uncouplers of oxidative phosphorylation; they are particularly
abundant in cedarwood, making this a naturally decay-resistant wood for
high-quality garden furnishings, etc."
http://www.biology.ed.ac.uk/research...lBiology/woodr
o
ts.htm

I have no idea what this means.

It means that cedarwood will take longer to turn into plant food, and to
the extent that it is water soluble, may suppress soil fungi.

It's fine by me if the cedar takes a while to decompose. The soil the
plants will be in is very good, and I'd appreciate having mulch that
lasts the season without needing to be replenished. I know that cedar
boards eventually decompose because my old raised bed which were made of
cedar are falling apart after 12 years. The cedar shavings, BTW, are
actually unused "Cedarific" cat litter which my cats don't like. I have
a huge bag and am trying to find a use for it.


---

Teaming with Microbes: A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web
Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microb...l/dp/088192777
5/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1206815176&sr= 1-1
(Available at a library near you.)

Chapter 1

Soil bacteria and FUNGI are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in
their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they gain from root exudates
and other organic matter (such as those sloughed-off root-tip cells).
Carrying on the analogy, soil protozoa and nematodes act as ³fertilizer
spreaders" by releasing , the nutrients locked up in the bacteria and
FUNGI ³fertilizer bags." The nematodes and protozoa in the soil come
along and eat the bacteria and FUNGI in the, rhizosphere. They digest
what they need to survive and excrete excess carbon and other nutrients
as waste.

there are other benefits. The nets or webs FUNGI form around roots act
as physical barriers to invasion and protect plants from pathogenic
fungi and bacteria. Bacteria coat surfaces so thoroughly, there is no
room for others to attach themselves. If something impacts these FUNGI
or bacteria and their numbers drop or they disappear, the plant can
easily be attacked.

Special soil fungi, called mycorrhizal FUNGI, establish themselves in a
symbiotic relationship with roots, providing them not only with-physical
protection but with nutrient delivery as well. In return for exudates,
these FUNGI provide water, phosphorus, and other necessary plant
nutrients. Soil food web populations must be in balance, or these FUNGI
are eaten and the plant suffers.

When any member of a soil food web dies, it becomes fodder for other
members of the community. The nutrients in these bodies are passed on to
other members of the community. A larger predator may eat them alive, or
they may be decayed after they die. One way or the other,FUNGI and
bacteria get involved, be it decaying the organism directly or working
on the dung of the successful eater. It makes no difference. Nutrients
are preserved and eventually are retained in the bodies of even the
smallest FUNGI and bacteria. When these are in the rhizosphere, they
release nutrients in plant-available form when they, in turn, are
consumed or die.
---

OK. I'm more accustomed to fungi being something one has to treat when
it infects plants (or animals/people), so I would have regarded
fungicidal tendencies as a good thing. I am now better educated on the
topic. Thanks.

Uh, no. I want moisture preservation and week suffocation from my mulch.

Week suffocation? Do you mean weed suppression?

Yeah. Weed suffocation. Typo.

By blocking the
sunlight, the newsprint and mulch will suppress weeds and preserve
moisture. I think it best to prep the garden 6 weeks in advance to allow
the newsprint to start breaking down, because it can direct water away
from where you want it.
If using before 6 weeks, position drip emmiters to water plants, or
perforate the newsprint with a pitchfork.

I think I mentioned in my original post that the mulch was going on top
of the soaker hoses.
I put mine on top, so it is easier to see any malfunction, and when I
want to add to the bed, I caan just pull it back, make my adjustments,
and then replace it. It should be no problem with a soaker hose.

I haven't got any 6 weeks at this point. I want to put in beans,
squash, etc. next week, and my tomatoes are arriving at the end of May.
And there's lots of other work needing to be done.
And "lasagna gardening", a.k.a. sheet mulching, reduces the manual labor
that goes into gardening.


The information below seems to be about composting.
Same deal whether it breaks down in a pile, spread as mulch, or worked
into the soil. A carbon/nitrogen ratio of 25/1 affords a balanced diet
for your soil. That (sorry, if this is overkill;O) is what "organic
gardening" is; feeding the soil to feed the plants.

Yes, I know. I compost, but weeds are so vicious in my yard and
time/energy in short supply, so I'm hoping for mulch that will do its
job and stick around for a while.
I've always considered that the newsprint was the physical barrier to
the weeds, and the sunlight. I get away with 3" of mulch in my beds, and
will have no weeds where the paper is put down and covered with mulch.

I hope this helps.

You've been very helpful. Thanks!

Priscilla

I hope you have a good season.

"All gardeners know better than other gardeners."
- Chinese
--
- Billy

Bush's 3rd term: Obama plus another elective war
Bush's 4th term: we can't afford it

America is not broke. The country is awash in wealth and cash.
It's just that it's not in your hands. It has been transferred, in the
greatest heist in history, from the workers and consumers to the banks
and the portfolios of the uber-rich.
http://theuptake.org/2011/03/05/michael-moore-the-big-lie-wisconsin-is-broke/