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Old 08-01-2012, 02:35 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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Going to try and start some hot pepper seeds again this year. Last year
near the beginning I got lots of mold. I also did not soak. Took over 6
weeks before I goy any sprouts. Too cool downstairs. I'm going to try a
tray and use a cover this time watching wetness, upstairs where it warmer.
Any tips?
Greg

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Old 08-01-2012, 03:36 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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"gregz" wrote in message
...
Going to try and start some hot pepper seeds again this year. Last
year
near the beginning I got lots of mold. I also did not soak. Took over
6
weeks before I goy any sprouts. Too cool downstairs. I'm going to try
a
tray and use a cover this time watching wetness, upstairs where it
warmer.
Any tips?
Greg


Ventilation? not too much, otherwise they will dry out.
I experienced some mold too from excess moisture. Finding the right
balance by trial and error.
A light timer on a fan may do the trick. That's on my list for
germination season.

Cheers



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Old 08-01-2012, 04:06 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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"gregz" wrote in message
...
Going to try and start some hot pepper seeds again this year. Last year
near the beginning I got lots of mold. I also did not soak. Took over 6
weeks before I goy any sprouts. Too cool downstairs. I'm going to try a
tray and use a cover this time watching wetness, upstairs where it warmer.
Any tips?
Greg


Bottom heat, peppers need at least 70F to sprout well and 6 weeks is not
unusual for some peppers.


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Old 08-01-2012, 11:06 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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On Jan 7, 9:35*pm, gregz wrote:
Going to try and start some hot pepper seeds again this year. Last year
near the beginning I got lots of mold. I also did not soak. Took over 6
weeks before I goy any sprouts. Too cool downstairs. I'm going to try a
tray and use a cover this time watching wetness, upstairs where it warmer..
Any tips?
Greg


Pepper seeds can be slow but did you check the dates on the package?
Sometimes the age does not mater but other times it makes all the
difference in the world. Unfortunately you don't know until after they
are planted. Not all harvested seeds, as in from actual peppers you
had, will germinate at all. Also, white fluffy stuff that looks like
mold may not be. Sometimes the chemicals in the water surface and look
like mold. Allow your water to "rest" uncovered for 24 hours before
using it.
MJ
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:17 AM posted to rec.gardens.edible
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" wrote:
On Jan 7, 9:35 pm, gregz wrote:
Going to try and start some hot pepper seeds again this year. Last year
near the beginning I got lots of mold. I also did not soak. Took over 6
weeks before I goy any sprouts. Too cool downstairs. I'm going to try a
tray and use a cover this time watching wetness, upstairs where it warmer.
Any tips?
Greg


Pepper seeds can be slow but did you check the dates on the package?
Sometimes the age does not mater but other times it makes all the
difference in the world. Unfortunately you don't know until after they
are planted. Not all harvested seeds, as in from actual peppers you
had, will germinate at all. Also, white fluffy stuff that looks like
mold may not be. Sometimes the chemicals in the water surface and look
like mold. Allow your water to "rest" uncovered for 24 hours before
using it.
MJ


I bought them assuming they were good. Very expensive ghost pepper seeds. I
got this summers seeds this time. I have had good luck planting the plants
in pots. I moved the ghost peppers up on my deck to get further away from
garden and the stink bugs. Funny thing, the stink bugs do not like my
standard yellow habanero plants. They like sweet peppers and jalepeno
plants, and to a lesser extent, ghost pepper.

There was a simple experiment done by someone I know. He found the
temperature of the roots, hotter, made hotter peppers. I was thinking the
pots would get hotter, but they require more watering.

Greg


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Old 10-01-2012, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregz View Post
Going to try and start some hot pepper seeds again this year. Last year
near the beginning I got lots of mold. I also did not soak. Took over 6
weeks before I goy any sprouts. Too cool downstairs. I'm going to try a
tray and use a cover this time watching wetness, upstairs where it warmer.
Any tips?
Greg
Get yourself an electric propagator, ie, covered tray with a heat pad, they don't cost very much, and I have got good germination rates even with "trickier" species such as rocotos (Capsicum pubescens). What I've had poor germination rates with are old seeds. After planting, drench the surface of the compost with a copper-based fungicide to discourage damping off, and remove the individual seed capsules from the propagator shortly after they have germinated, as they are much more prone to fungal problems while they are in there. (And sometimes the seeds do go white and fuzzy just before they germinate, so don't worry about that.)
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:06 PM
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I am great fan of chilli plants. This year I tried something new - planting seeds in pure vermiculite. (with cover and proper watering of course and temperature of around 18-21 deg) And it worked wery well! Only after they germinate it is advantageous to add to water very small amount of tomato feeder (the same family) or any feed that contains Potassium.

You can find more about vermiculite use for germination in the internet.
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:16 AM
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Hi Guys, i am new to this forum and found this thread so thought i would add my thoughts..

I grow alot of chillies each year, this year will be around 200 plants (by the time i have finished) or 40 or 50 varieties. i start them in a heated propagator set to around 25 degrees, this is because most of the plants i grow are classed as super hots.

I use peat free jiffy pellets for germination as they are easy to handle and give good results, i have started this years seeds and already have over 50% of them pop their little leaves up

this is the first year for many years i am not using a T5 propagation light to get them started but they are in a sunny window so all will be fine i'm sure.

i do not feed my plants until they start to get flower buds on them and then they get 1/3 strength tomato feed a maximum of once a week until they start to set peppers then i increase the strength of the feed..

I usually get a very good crop of chilli peppers in all shapes and sizes


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