Raised Beds Questions
 

Hi,
I am planning on putting in raised beds for my edible garden next
spring. I want to use 2" x 12" x 10' untreated boards but am unsure
how wide to make the beds. What is a good workable width? Can I grow
all edible vegetables in raised garden beds or are some best directly
into regular garden beds? Are raised garden beds more productive than
regular garden beds? TIA

Raised Beds Questions
 

g'day rosebud,

i make mine app' 1 meter wide (3' to 4'), and 6 meters long maximum.
that width allows you to reach in half way from either side. i don't
need to walk on my beds so get no compaction so need no digging.

len

snipped
--
happy gardening
'it works for me it could work for you,'

"in the end ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do" but consider others and the environment
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Raised Beds Questions
 

"@------" wrote in message ...
Hi,
I am planning on putting in raised beds for my edible garden next
spring. I want to use 2" x 12" x 10' untreated boards but am unsure
how wide to make the beds. What is a good workable width?

It depends. Access from one side: 3ft or less. From two sides: 4 ft.
In time I got organized so that I seldom lean across the bed to do
anything. I think I am now ready for 5 ft beds.

Can I grow
all edible vegetables in raised garden beds or are some best directly
into regular garden beds? Are raised garden beds more productive than
regular garden beds? TIA

Raised beds help with those veggies who like well-drained soil, say,
garlic or most root crops. They are best when one has heavy soil, and
almost useless in very sandy soil. In my very sandy soil, for example,
I am certain that some veggies would do better without. But raised
beds provide a natural container for all the organic matter, they save
your back from overexertion, they mark clearly a no-step area (not
that it matters, the soil is very light regardless), and they at least
provide several inches of pH-neutral soil on top of acidic soil

Raised Beds Questions
 

i like to make my raised beds 4 feet wide. i also like to plant marigolds and
other bee-happy plants on the perimeter to ensure that my veggies and fruits
get pollinated.

pat

Raised Beds Questions
 

Raised Beds Questions
 

len gardener wrote:
g'day rosebud,

i make mine app' 1 meter wide (3' to 4'), and 6 meters long maximum.
that width allows you to reach in half way from either side. i don't
need to walk on my beds so get no compaction so need no digging.

Thanks

Raised Beds Questions
 

Patskywriter wrote:

i like to make my raised beds 4 feet wide. i also like to plant marigolds and
other bee-happy plants on the perimeter to ensure that my veggies and fruits
get pollinated.

Thanks for the marigold tip. I'll be sure to try that.

pat

Raised Beds Questions
 

simy1 wrote:

(simy1) wrote in message . com...

"@------" wrote in message ...

Hi,
I am planning on putting in raised beds for my edible garden next
spring. I want to use 2" x 12" x 10' untreated boards but am unsure
how wide to make the beds. What is a good workable width?

It depends. Access from one side: 3ft or less. From two sides: 4 ft.
In time I got organized so that I seldom lean across the bed to do
anything. I think I am now ready for 5 ft beds.


to follow up. I have always left a brick in my beds anyway, because
the longest is 30ft long and I don't want to walk a mile. When i need
to cross, I step on the brick. However, in time I have learned to
plant things so I don't have to cross (except for tomatoes, so I
always have a brick at the end of my tomato patch).


Can I grow

all edible vegetables in raised garden beds or are some best directly
into regular garden beds? Are raised garden beds more productive than
regular garden beds? TIA

Raised beds help with those veggies who like well-drained soil, say,
garlic or most root crops. They are best when one has heavy soil, and
almost useless in very sandy soil. In my very sandy soil, for example,
I am certain that some veggies would do better without. But raised
beds provide a natural container for all the organic matter, they save
your back from overexertion, they mark clearly a no-step area (not
that it matters, the soil is very light regardless), and they at least
provide several inches of pH-neutral soil on top of acidic soil


Example given: if I had some normal beds and some raised beds, on,
say, heavy soil, I would put all the water thirsty veggies (say,
celery and radish) in the normal ones, and all those who need drainage
in the raised beds. There are limits of course. In my case, for
example, beets require neutral soil and water, so I get disappointing
results with them. Ultimately, unless you have a deep, fertile,
neutral loam in full sun in a maritime climate, there are only so many
veggies one can grow well in a given location.

Thanks for the tips. I've printed off your reply.