In article KatraMungBean-
,
says...
A simple fence trellis might be even simpler?
That's what I use for beans.

It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between
two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8'
tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up
my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc..
Works for all of them.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

In article KatraMungBean-
,
says...
A simple fence trellis might be even simpler?
That's what I use for beans.

It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between
two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8'
tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up
my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc..
Works for all of them.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

In article KatraMungBean-
,
says...
A simple fence trellis might be even simpler?
That's what I use for beans.

It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between
two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8'
tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up
my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc..
Works for all of them.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.

Hi,

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.

Hi,

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims
that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe.

Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a
bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are.

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only
going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's
even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high?

Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow
this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high.

Two things I use:

1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U)
and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other
veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the
strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems.

2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and
you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the
hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and
about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an
exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing
stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top
and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing
does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a
U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it
grows in the middle... especially melons.

With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing,
but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose.

One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is
that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then
again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants?

"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims
that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe.

Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a
bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are.

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only
going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's
even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high?

Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow
this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high.

Two things I use:

1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U)
and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other
veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the
strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems.

2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and
you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the
hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and
about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an
exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing
stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top
and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing
does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a
U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it
grows in the middle... especially melons.

With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing,
but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose.

One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is
that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then
again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants?

"DigitalVinyl" wrote in message
news
Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.
The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support.

Does anyone know what a full-grown tomato plant with fruit weighs?
I think its gonna vary. MY bush last year was about 6' high and two
foot around. I'd say the most tomatoes it had on it at once was about
10-12 lbs plus the weight of the plant itself, which i'd be wild-ass
guessing is ?10,15,20? pounds. WHen I pulled them at end of season I
thought they were heavier than expected. My vine, which actually
ended up growing as two vines on two stakes, was probably less than
that.

I used the stackable tomato cages from Gardener's Supply. They are
unfortunately expensive(like most of their catalog) but it made caging
a 6' bush effortless. My neighbor liked how easy it was to harvest and
they didn't keep sliding and collapsing down a stake when heavy with
fruit. Neither of us do staking well. Plants always slide down and
create tight bends.
I am considering buying another four this year despite overpriced
costs.

Hi,

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

In article KatraMungBean-
,
says...
A simple fence trellis might be even simpler?
That's what I use for beans.

It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between
two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8'
tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up
my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc..
Works for all of them.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

In article KatraMungBean-
,
says...
A simple fence trellis might be even simpler?
That's what I use for beans.

It's not exactly fence, but I use garden mesh stretched between
two 2"x2"s with another 2"x2" across the top. These are 8'
tall and the bottom foot is screwed to the planks that make up
my 4'x4' raised beds. Beans, peas, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc..
Works for all of them.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims
that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe.

Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a
bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are.

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only
going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's
even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high?

Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow
this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high.

Two things I use:

1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U)
and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other
veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the
strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems.

2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and
you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the
hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and
about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an
exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing
stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top
and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing
does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a
U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it
grows in the middle... especially melons.

With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing,
but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose.

One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is
that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then
again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants?

"FDR" wrote in message ...
Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up. The
tomato plant grows into the spiral and gives natural support. The ad claims
that it is the most popular way to do it in Europe.

Has anybody actually tried these? They are $4.50 a piece and seem like a
bargain. I just don't know how sturdy they are.

I'd like to try staking this year. Just don't know what method to use.

It seems to be by the time you spiral a 6' piece of metal it's only
going to be about 4' high. Bury part of that in the ground, and it's
even less.... or are you saying it's 6' high?

Indeterminate tomatoes will grow higher than 6', so you may outgrow
this pretty quickly unless it really is 6' high.

Two things I use:

1. I have 3/4" electrical conduit (3 8' pieces forming an inverted U)
and a net that forms a climbing fence for the tomatoes (and other
veggies). This is pretty permanent, and it's very sturdy since the
strength is from the top. It supports cantaloupe with no problems.

2. This isn't as good, but it's much easier to construct, cheap, and
you can put it up and take it down pretty quickly. All of the
hardware stores sell "garden" fencing that's 3, 4, or 6' wide and
about 50' long. I cut this into 7-10' sections, curl them into an
exaggerated U, and secure it in the ground with a single 4' fencing
stake (the green kind with the little hooks that point up on the top
and down on the bottom). As long as the stake is secure, the fencing
does really well, even in heavy winds. If you make an O instead of a
U, it's even more secure, but it's harder to harvest the fruit if it
grows in the middle... especially melons.

With tomatoes, they have always needed minor assistance when climbing,
but I doubt that changes with the structure you choose.

One final note... the main disadvantage to both of these structures is
that it's a bear to protect the plants in hail storms, etc. But then
again, what do you expect when you have 7' high plants?

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:53:10 GMT, "FDR"
wrote:

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 01:57:16 GMT, "FDR" wrote

Looking through the Garden Tools by Lee Valley catalog, I came across a
tomato staking method using spirals. Basically, it's a 6 foot long
piece of
metal that you push into the ground and it is spiraled all the way up.

I like those cages from Gardener's supply too, but I can't see myself paying
so much for them. If they were cheaper I'd definitely get them.

Go somewhere like Home Depot and get a roll of 6" mesh concrete
reinforcing wire. Ask about what kind of tool you need to cut the
wire.

Here's a rough illustration and directions:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/project...37trellis.html

This page suggests tying the cage to a stake, but if you snip off the
bottom wire, you'll have a 6" multi-spike perimeter to put into the
ground. These are sturdy, last for years and years, and do a good job
of supporting the tomatoes.