|
Compost - how to use
I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in
the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? |
Compost - how to use
Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote:
I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. Henriette -- Henriette Kress, AHG Helsinki, Finland Henriette's herbal homepage: http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed |
Compost - how to use
Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote:
I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. Henriette -- Henriette Kress, AHG Helsinki, Finland Henriette's herbal homepage: http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed |
Compost - how to use
"Grandpa" jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote in message ... I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Sure, bung a thick layer round soft fruit plants/bushes about now, and rhubarb particularly will like it. Steve |
Compost - how to use
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 09:58:41 +0200, Henriette Kress wrote:
Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote: I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. Henriette IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? I can think of no garden plant that doesn't benefit from the use of compost whether used as a mulch or forked into the ground. Just plan on a solid 2" or more when used as a mulch. If you haven't enough to go around, spread it thick as far as you can and go make some more for the rest of the garden. Bill -- http://cannaday.us (genealogy) http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening) Uptimes below for the Linux machines that created / host these sites. 22:32:00 up 20 days, 1:55, 3 users, load average: 0.26, 0.82, 0.81 22:27:00 up 80 days, 2:39, 8 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00 |
Compost - how to use
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 09:58:41 +0200, Henriette Kress wrote:
Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote: I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. Henriette IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? I can think of no garden plant that doesn't benefit from the use of compost whether used as a mulch or forked into the ground. Just plan on a solid 2" or more when used as a mulch. If you haven't enough to go around, spread it thick as far as you can and go make some more for the rest of the garden. Bill -- http://cannaday.us (genealogy) http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening) Uptimes below for the Linux machines that created / host these sites. 22:32:00 up 20 days, 1:55, 3 users, load average: 0.26, 0.82, 0.81 22:27:00 up 80 days, 2:39, 8 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00 |
Compost - how to use
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 09:58:41 +0200, Henriette Kress wrote:
Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote: I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. Henriette IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? I can think of no garden plant that doesn't benefit from the use of compost whether used as a mulch or forked into the ground. Just plan on a solid 2" or more when used as a mulch. If you haven't enough to go around, spread it thick as far as you can and go make some more for the rest of the garden. Bill -- http://cannaday.us (genealogy) http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening) Uptimes below for the Linux machines that created / host these sites. 22:32:00 up 20 days, 1:55, 3 users, load average: 0.26, 0.82, 0.81 22:27:00 up 80 days, 2:39, 8 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00 |
Compost - how to use
Anonymous wrote:
Henriette Kress wrote: Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? Wormcompost. Very very strong. After my first year of wormcomposting, indoors, I had a bucketful or two of prime compost, and used that for planting. The only thing that survived was tomatoes and sweet peppers; everything else croaked. Diluting 1:1:1 with sand and peat would have made for very good planting soil. Granted, normal garden compost generally isn't that strong. But pumpkins and squashes need planting on last years' compost heap, for real growing power. Henriette (Aaaah, run, the spaghetti squash is coming this way!) -- Henriette Kress, AHG * * * * * * * * * * *Helsinki, Finland Henriette's herbal homepage: http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed |
Compost - how to use
Anonymous wrote:
Henriette Kress wrote: Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? Wormcompost. Very very strong. After my first year of wormcomposting, indoors, I had a bucketful or two of prime compost, and used that for planting. The only thing that survived was tomatoes and sweet peppers; everything else croaked. Diluting 1:1:1 with sand and peat would have made for very good planting soil. Granted, normal garden compost generally isn't that strong. But pumpkins and squashes need planting on last years' compost heap, for real growing power. Henriette (Aaaah, run, the spaghetti squash is coming this way!) -- Henriette Kress, AHG * * * * * * * * * * *Helsinki, Finland Henriette's herbal homepage: http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed |
Compost - how to use
Anonymous wrote:
Henriette Kress wrote: Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? Wormcompost. Very very strong. After my first year of wormcomposting, indoors, I had a bucketful or two of prime compost, and used that for planting. The only thing that survived was tomatoes and sweet peppers; everything else croaked. Diluting 1:1:1 with sand and peat would have made for very good planting soil. Granted, normal garden compost generally isn't that strong. But pumpkins and squashes need planting on last years' compost heap, for real growing power. Henriette (Aaaah, run, the spaghetti squash is coming this way!) -- Henriette Kress, AHG * * * * * * * * * * *Helsinki, Finland Henriette's herbal homepage: http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed |
Compost - how to use
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 22:37:42 -0500, Anonymous
wrote: IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? Do you know, offhand, of any sites that describe the 'nutritional content' of average compost? As you say, a lot of people tout its value as fertilizer, while I've always thought that its soil-improving characteristics were what makes it valuable/necessary. |
Compost - how to use
Henriette Kress wrote in message . ..
Grandpa jsdebooATcomcast.net wrote: I expect it's typically turned into the soil but how about a layer in the hole where a tomato plant might go for instance? Also, any benefit to spreading it around the plants on top of the ground? Tomatoes potatoes chilis and pumpkins/squashes can take compost straight, so go ahead. Most other plants will croak if planted in compost - it's just too strong. Henriette Perhaps if you compost kitchen scraps undiluted. But if you mix in enough leaves the resulting compost will be mellow enough for most plants. |
Compost - how to use
Henriette Kress wrote:
After my first year of wormcomposting, indoors, I had a bucketful or two of prime compost, and used that for planting. The only thing that survived was tomatoes and sweet peppers; everything else croaked. Diluting 1:1:1 with sand and peat would have made for very good planting soil. Granted, normal garden compost generally isn't that strong. But pumpkins and squashes need planting on last years' compost heap, for real growing power. Henriette (Aaaah, run, the spaghetti squash is coming this way!) I have volunteer melons that grow out of my compost pile, so I'm guessing they can handle it as well. In fact, these are mutuant-strength plants. The seedling stems are about as big as my thumb... well, maybe not that big, but they are definitely larger than seedlings planted in ordinary soil. |
Compost - how to use
|
Compost - how to use
On Thu, 25 Mar 2004 10:26:29 +0000, Frogleg wrote:
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 22:37:42 -0500, Anonymous wrote: IIRC, compost generally assays out at about 1-1-1. It's not too strong. If anything, its value as a fertilizer is over-rated. Perhaps you were thinking about straight, uncomposted, manures? Do you know, offhand, of any sites that describe the 'nutritional content' of average compost? As you say, a lot of people tout its value as fertilizer, while I've always thought that its soil-improving characteristics were what makes it valuable/necessary. Here's one ... but it's not the one I recall. There are probably others. http://www.mastercomposter.com/ref/faq.html#npk -- http://cannaday.us (genealogy) http://organic-earth.com (organic gardening) Uptimes below for the machines that created / host these sites. 01:07:00 up 1 day, 2:03, 2 users, load average: 0.16, 0.43, 0.48 01:02:00 up 83 days, 5:14, 3 users, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00 |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:25 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
GardenBanter